The Mysterious Garo Hills

 

Wari Chora in the Garo Hills. Source of photograph: Official Meghalaya Tourism Facebook Page.

Wari Chora can be reached from Baghmara. The Wari Chora homestay is about 1.5 hours away by road. From there, the trek's starting point is another 10–15 minutes via an off-road drive. The descent through the forest takes roughly 1–2 hours, depending on one’s stamina and comfort with trekking through wooded terrain. The ascent back usually takes about 2–3 hours. Exploring the canyon by canoe—along the river, waterfall, and surrounding rock formations—typically takes around 2–3 hours.

The Garo Hills remain one of the unexplored regions of our country. My father often tells us stories of his adventurous trips to the caves and rivers hidden in these hills. The photographs I came across on the Meghalaya Tourism website are incredibly intriguing, and they make me eager to visit these mysterious mountains someday.

Getting permission to go there, however, will be a challenge. So far, my parents have never allowed me to travel to that side of the country, which kept the idea slightly out of reach. According to them, the region can be difficult and unsafe.

A little research online suggests that parts of the Garo Hills are indeed challenging in terms of infrastructure and accessibility. Yet perhaps that very remoteness is what keeps the landscape so pristine and beautiful. Travel accounts also mention past insurgencies and occasional security concerns, which may explain the caution many people advise.

At the same time, these hills are home to indigenous communities whose lives and histories are deeply connected to the land. In many places across the world, development has displaced such communities; even in Meghalaya, certain smaller groups have gradually disappeared over time.

Perhaps it will take some patience to figure out how to reach the hidden sanctuaries of these hills responsibly—before rapid development begins to alter their character. Many travelers have already made the journey, and I hope that one day, soon enough, I will too.

Karukol in Garo Hills. Source of photograph: Official Meghalaya Tourism Facebook Page 

Simsang River in Garo Hills. Source of photograph: Official Meghalaya Tourism Facebook Page 

Places of Interest in the Garo Hills

The course of the Simsang River. It has its origin in the Nokrek range, then flows down south into Bangladesh, where it is called Someshwari

Origin of the Garos

The origin of the Garo people is not well documented due to the limited availability of historical records. Much of Garo history has traditionally been passed down orally through stories and legends across generations. Ancient Garo scripts are believed to have been lost over time, and in recent centuries, the community has largely adopted the Roman script through the influence of English.

The little research that exists suggests that the Garos may have migrated from Tibet. Similarities in language, traditions, and cultural practices lend some support to this theory. For instance, yak tails hold sacred significance in Garo culture—a belief that is also common in Tibet and other regions where yaks are native. Since yaks are not found in the mountains of Meghalaya or in other traditional Garo habitats, this cultural element has been interpreted by some scholars as a possible trace of an ancestral connection to Tibetan regions. Many Garo legends also recount stories of migration from distant northern mountains. Even today, small Garo villages located along river routes seem to align with these migration narratives.

Several historians believe that different Tibetan tribes migrated toward the Garo Hills by following the course of the Brahmaputra River. Some groups are thought to have detoured through present-day Sikkim, following the Teesta River before moving further west and south. One theory suggests that an early settlement of the Garos was in Cooch Behar. From there, they were reportedly driven out by the Koch rulers and moved eastward to Jogighopa and then to Dalgoma. From Dalgoma, they eventually migrated south into the Garo Hills.

Another theory proposes a different migration route. According to this view, certain Tibetan groups may have followed the Salween River from its source and moved toward present-day Myanmar. From there, they likely followed the Chindwin and Irrawaddy river systems to the Mandalay region, where they settled as agricultural communities. Over time, some groups migrated westward, crossing into the region around present-day Dimapur. From Dimapur, some moved north toward northeastern Assam, while others continued toward the Garo Hills.

Probable routes of Garo Migration to Meghalaya from Tibet 

Identity and Social Structure of the Garos

The name “Garo” is believed to have been given by neighbouring communities to the migrant tribes inhabiting the hills. The exact origin of the term remains somewhat obscure. Some scholars suggest that the word may have evolved from Gari, a term used for stepped farmers, which later transformed into Garo. Others associate the name with the Garuda tribes or with groups known as the Gara-Ganching.

Traditionally, however, the Garos referred to themselves as Achik Mande, meaning “hill people.” The indigenous Garos were nature worshippers and followed a traditional belief system known as Songsarek. Over time, particularly during the colonial and missionary period, many Garos converted to Christianity, which is now widely practiced across the region.

Like the Khasis and Jaintias, the Garos follow a matrilineal and matrilocal social system, though it is not matriarchal. Lineage and property are inherited through a designated daughter of the family. If a family has no daughters, one may be adopted from the mother’s sister’s lineage. After marriage, the husband traditionally moves into the wife’s household and assumes responsibilities within her family.

Garo society is organised into five major exogamous clans, known as chatchis or katchis: Marak, Momin, Sangma, Arengh, and Shira. Each clan is further divided into several lineages called machongs (septs). Traditionally, marriage within the same chatchi was strictly prohibited. In contemporary practice, however, many communities primarily enforce marriage restrictions within the same machong.

The Garos are also divided into several sub-tribes, largely distinguished by dialect and geographical location. These include Ambeng (Abeng), A.tong, A.we, Chibok, Chisak, Dual, Gara-Ganching, Koch, Matabeng, Matchi, Matchi-Dual, Megam, and Ruga.

Distribution of sub-tribes in Garo Hills

Shiju Bat Caves - Source of photograph: Official Meghalaya Tourism Facebook Page. One can reach the Shiju Bird Sanctuary and caves from Baghmara in about 1.5 hours drive

How and When to Travel to the Garo Hills

From what I have heard from fellow travellers, reaching the caves, waterfalls, and canyons of the Garo Hills is not always easy. Many of these places require medium-level treks through dense forests filled with leeches, insects, and wildlife. Yet perhaps that is exactly what makes the journey feel like an adventurous treasure hunt.

I remember trekking through the forests of Madhya Pradesh to reach Chitrakote Falls with a tribal guide when the place was still relatively undiscovered. The experience was magical—the wilderness felt untouched, and the beauty was exquisite. Today, the falls are easily accessible and often crowded with tourists, and somehow the charm feels a little diminished. Experiences like that make me feel that places such as the Garo Hills should ideally be preserved and protected rather than turned into easily accessible tourist hubs.

The Garo Hills are among the wettest regions in India. Meghalaya itself literally means “the abode of the clouds.” Monsoon season is, therefore, not the best time to visit. June to October sees the heaviest rainfall, with June and July often bringing intense downpours that make travel and trekking extremely difficult.

Although many people prefer hill destinations during summer vacations, summer in the Garo Hills can be somewhat humid. The forests also tend to be filled with leeches during the warmer and wetter months. Personally, I find winter to be the most pleasant time to visit Meghalaya, as the cooler climate makes trekking and outdoor exploration much easier. However, for those not planning long hikes or treks, summer can still be manageable.

Most of the major attractions in the Garo Hills are accessed from Tura and Baghmara. Both towns can be reached via Shillong or directly from Guwahati in Assam, which has the nearest airport and major railway station to the region.

From Tura, Nokrek National Park is about a 2.5-hour drive, while Balpakram National Park lies roughly 1.5 hours from Baghmara.

The Garo Hills still remain one of those rare corners of India where nature feels untamed, and stories travel through whispers of forests and rivers. Perhaps that is what makes them so fascinating—the sense that much of their beauty is still hidden, waiting patiently beyond winding trails and mist-covered hills. For now, these landscapes continue to exist in quiet mystery, protected by their remoteness and the communities that call them home. Someday, I hope to follow those forest paths myself and discover the hidden sanctuaries of the Garo Hills before the world inevitably finds them.