Why did we select Serengeti for our African Safari trip? Serengeti vs Masai Mara vs Kruger

 

The Lioness Pride in Serengeti National Park

The 'African Safari' had been on the bucket list for a long time. However, it was way out of my travel budget.  This time I decided to just go for it. After COVID-19, decisions have been faster. Who knows what befalls tomorrow, so the thought has been, 'Just DO it today if you want to'. We had only 10 days of vacation time and limited funds, so had to make the most of it within the constraints. 

We wanted to experience the Great Migration, hence, late July - Early August was pinned as the travel dates. Unfortunately, almost everything was booked in August and we had to plan around the dates when accommodations were available in Serengeti National Park. The Lesson Learnt: If planning a Safari Trip, plan way ahead. To get good accommodation at a good price, book at least 6 months ahead of the travel dates. We were four months away from our target date and it was truly late!

Our final itinerary included three days in Zanzibar, 4 days in Serengeti National Park, and 2 days were kept for travel. Part of the family flew from Delhi, India to Zanzibar via Mumbai, India, and Dar Es Salaam and part flew from Milan, Italy via Doha, Qatar. Air Tanzania has direct flights to Zanzibar and Arusha from Mumbai via Dar Es Salaam. Now the reason we wanted a direct flight was to avoid the yellow fever vaccination!

Yellow Fever vaccination requirements for Tanzania:

Tanzania is not a Yellow Fever Endemic Zone as recognized by WHO. If one flies to Tanzania directly from a non-endemic zone and flies out directly to a non-endemic zone, vaccination is not necessary. However, it can be taken as a precaution. If taking a flight via an endemic zone, either way, vaccination is mandatory. We had septuagenarians traveling with us who were at high risk of serious side effects if vaccinated and we wanted to avoid it. It is advised that people aged 60+ avoid the yellow fever vaccination. South Africa and Tanzania are not endemic zones and people above 60 can plan their safari trips in these countries. Kenya is an endemic zone, hence Masai Mara was off our list. Please note: In 2022, Tanzania required yellow fever vaccination irrespective of the flight origin or destination when Kenya faced an outbreak. It is always good to check with the Embassy and the air carrier before planning the trip. 

Serengeti (including Ngorongoro crater), Tanzania vs Masai Mara, Kenya vs Kruger, South Africa

The top three popular destinations for the once-in-a-lifetime African Safari experience include Serengeti, Masai Mara, and Kruger. It was a tough job deciding which one we wanted to pick as our destination. Here are the pointers we based our final decision on:

1. Yellow Fever Vaccination - It was on the very top of our list. Serengeti and Kruger did not require it. Masai Mara required it. That removed Masai Mara from our options.

2. Flight cost - Flight to Kenya < Flight to Serengeti < Flight to Kruger. Kruger was the farthest from Milan and Delhi and the flight tickets were exorbitantly priced for July/August, which removed Kruger from the option leaving only Serengeti as the choice of destination.

3. Park fees - Krugar < Serengeti < Masai Mara

4. Travel fees within the park - Masai Mara < Kruger < Serengeti. The cost of travel in Serengeti increases because one has to pay for the Ngorongoro Conservation Area fee during entry and exit.

5. Accommodation cost - Kruger < Masai Mara < Serengeti. Kruger has the most affordable hotels and camps compared to the other two.

6. Availability of Accommodation - Serengeti < Masai Mara < Kruger. Serengeti has fewer accommodations compared to the other two.

7. Park size - Masai Mara < Serengeti < Kruger. Masai Mara is the extended smaller part of Serengeti, located in Kenya and it is the smallest of the three. Kruger remains the largest and the only park that can support all the BIG FIVE.

8.  Chances of seeing the big five - Masai Mara < Serengeti < Kruger. The highest chance of seeing all the big five is in Kruger. In fact, both white and black rhinos can be easily seen in Kruger while we had a tough time getting a glimpse of a black rhino in Ngorongoro crater.

9. Chances of seeing land migration of Wildebeest and river crossing - Kruger < Masai Mara < Serengeti. Since Serengeti and Masai Mara have vast stretches of savannah plains it's easier to see big herds of animals, particularly during migration. 

10. Self-drive safari convenience - Serengeti < Masai Mara < Kruger. The ease of planning a self-driven safari trip is best in Kruger. I don't think it's even possible in Serengeti. 

11. Terrain and Landscape - Kruger has a bushy landscape while Masai Mara and Serengeti have vast stretches of savannah grassland. The landscape is more diverse in Serengeti and Masai Mara than in Kruger.

12. Best months to visit - Kruger: May to October; Masai Mara: June to October; Serengeti: January-February and June to September

13. Ease of getting a Visa - South Africa < Kenya and Tanzania. Getting a Visa was pretty simple for Kenya and Tanzania. All three countries have e-visa facilities but friends said South African Visa processing time was longer than the 7-day window of Kenya and Tanzania.

Great Migration, July 2024

Most Popular African Safari Destinations include the following countries: Uganda, Kenya, Rwanda, Tanzania, Malawi, Mozambique, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Namibia, Botswana, and South Africa

If I get a chance to make a second trip, it will be Kruger. Masai Mara still stays out because of the vaccination requirement. Zambia and Zimbabwe come close next because Victoria Falls is on my bucket list as well. Let's see what life has in store!

Plitvice National Park And Its Legends

 

A: Veliki Slap Waterfall (The highest waterfall in Croatia at 78 m)  B: Korana River C: Sastavci Waterfall D: Novakovica Lake

The Legend of the Black Queen

Legend has it, the Plitvice Lakes were magically created by the Black Queen of Croatia. The Black Queen was a cruel, mean-spirited ruler, who reigned over the region a long long time ago during the dark ages. During those times, this region was fed by the Black River, and the forest surrounding it was called the Devil's Garden (Vražji vrt), inhabited by magical creatures. As the dark ages grew darker, a long, deadly drought dried up the river and brought the people to the feet of the Queen begging for water and life. For once, the Queen gave up her mean spirit, showed mercy, and magically created a large Lake, promising that it will never dry.  The Lake was named Proscansko after the Croatian word Prositi which means "beg for".

How were the Plitvice Lakes and Waterfalls formed?

Schengen Visa:

As of January 2023, Croatia is an official member of the Schengen Countries and a Schengen Visa is required for entry to this country. We traveled to Croatia from Italy. More precisely, we were visiting Venice when we decided to head for the lakes in Plitvice, Croatia. We traveled to Italy from India on a multiple-entry Schengen tourist visa. Getting a Schengen Visa was not very difficult. It can be applied through VFS in Delhi. The VFS office is located at the Shivaji Stadium metro station. It took about a week between applying for the visa and receiving it. 

Mode of travel:

While there are multiple modes of travel to Croatia from Venice, we opted for the Bus. The bus ticket was booked online through Flix bus. We faced no issues getting the tickets, boarding, and traveling. The route was via Ljubljana, Slovenia. It took us about 5 hours to reach Zagreb.

The other options to travel to Croatia from Venice are, train, air, and ferry. While air travel is the quickest, it's the most expensive as well. Rail and waterway were long overnight journeys, hence we chose the bus.

Day 1: 

We were in Zagreb for a day. Our short stay was made deliciously memorable with freshly baked yummy pastries and a music festival, which we luckily got a chance to attend at the Zagreb square.

Day 2:

On day 2 early morning, we took another Flix Bus from Zagreb to Slunj. It took about 2 hours to reach Slunj. Zagreb has a good network of tram services and we didn't have any problem traveling around the city. Small tobacco stores near the tram stop/stations sell the tickets. When we traveled to Croatia in 2019, they were still using the Kuna as their currency. So, we exchanged some Euros at the bus station on our arrival the previous day. In January 2023, Croatia adopted the Euro as its official currency making life easier. 

Slunj is a small quiet quaint little town or maybe a village. I regret not planning a longer stay here. We booked a bread and breakfast here with a lovely river view room and lawn. I could have spent weeks here amidst nature's quiet beauty. Will share details of Slunj in another post.

 

Day 3:

On day 3 we booked a Flix bus to Plitvice Lakes. We waited at the bus stop at the said time, but the bus passed by without stopping to pick us up. We tried to enquire about the next bus or any other transportation options to the park but language proved a barrier since the locals were not well-versed in English. Most tourists travel to the park in rented cars or their own vehicles. After wasting almost 3 hours, we met a lady who understood English and helped us get another bus to the park. Our initial plan was to start early to avoid the afternoon sun. It was one of the warmest summers in Europe that year. Unfortunately, we started post 12:00 pm.

We finally arrived at the Lakes at 1:00 pm. The bus dropped us at the Ticket Office at entrance 1. They mentioned that the last bus left around 6:00 pm and if missed that, it might be a very long wait till late at night before we can get another bus. All restaurants closed around the time the park closed. There were very limited places of accommodation. This meant we had to ensure, we were back at the bus stop much before 6:00 pm since the buses here didn't quite follow the correct timings.

Entry Timings:

Summer timings (June and August) : 

7:00 am to 8:00 pm 

Last entry at 6:00 pm

Autumn/Fall (September and October) :

7:00 / 8:00 am to 6:00 / 7:00 pm 

Last entry at 4:00 / 5:00 pm

Winter timings  (November to March) :

8:00 am to 4:00 pm

Last entry at 2:00 pm

Spring timings (April and May) :

8:00 am -7:00 pm

Last entry at 5:00 pm

Ticket Prices are shared on the official website. Prices vary by season, entry timings, and age.

We entered the park around 1:00 pm and were out by 5:00 pm. We didn't want to risk missing the bus back but as a result, we skipped a few viewpoints and shorter treks. 

My suggestion is to pre-book the hotel at the park which is right across from the entrance 2 ticket office. It is a bit pricey and gets booked pretty fast in the peak summer season. Plan ahead and save the stress of missing buses. There are a few local taxis, at entrance 2, but they charge exorbitant rates.

The Lakes and the Waterfalls:

Must say the lakes, the waterfalls, and the park was gorgeous. All the trouble to get here was definitely worth it. 

There are about 8 trails that the visitors can take depending on how much they choose to see in a day. Details are available on the official park website. Since we planned a day trip and had wasted half a day thanks to the bus that ditched us, we opted for the C program with a slight change. Instead of going back to the starting point, we cut our hike short at ST2 and returned via entrance 2. We had to forgo some good views between St2 and Entrance 1. However, we managed to cover the entire park and took the boat ride on Lake Kozjak

I assume, starting the trek at entrance 2 is a wee bit better than entrance 1. Entrance 1 is close to the lower lakes and it's a climb all the way up to the highest lake, Proscansko. While from Entrance 2, it's a short climb to Proscansko and then a climb down to the lower lakes. 

Source of map: Official website https://np-plitvicka-jezera.hr/en/plan-your-visit/istrazite-jezera/activities/lake-tour-programmes/

The highest lake is at 637 m above sea level and the lowest lake is at 503 m above sea level 

Climbing up towards Lake Kaluderovac. The boardwalks are comfortable and safe. We went during peak summer when the boards were dry. They might get slippery during wet seasons.

Lake Kaluderovac at 505 m above sea level. The turquoise waters are clean and one can see the fishes and plants under water.

Lake Gavanovac at 514 m above sea level. Swimming is prohibited in the lakes. Water from the rivers and the lakes at the park is supplied as drinking water to the municipalities of Rakovica and Plitvicka

The Legend of the Gavanovo treasure

Local legends suggest,  at the bottom of Lake Gavanovac lies the hidden treasure trove of a magician named Gavan, after whom the lake gets its name. Gavan, the wizard had a treasure box of fairies and spirits with magical powers. Gavan was a kind and honest person and used this power for the welfare of his people but one day the Black Queen, heard about his treasure and sent her men to capture him. Fearing, the queen will misuse the powers, Gavan gave the box to his faithful servant Juraj and asked him to hide it in the deep forest. While escaping the Queen's men, Juraj fell into the lake releasing the fairies and the spirits. The fairies saved him, Gavan, and they kept the lake protected from the reach of the Black Queen. It is said the box still lies in the bottom of the lake and the fairies are heard singing in the stillness of the starry nights at the lakes.

Milanovacki slap Waterfall and Lake Milanovac at 524 m above sea level

Slapovi Milke Trnine Waterfall was named after Katarina Milka Ternina a famous Croatian Soprano (1863-1941)

Lake Kozjak at 535 m above sea level. It is also the deepest (47 m) and the largest (81.5 ha) lake in the national park. We took a boat from P1 boat point to P3 boat point. There is a rest area and a gift shop with ice cream and snacks near P1.

Veliki Pstavac Waterfall seen from Lake Burgeti at 545 m above sea level

Gradinsko Lake at 554 m above sea level 

Veliki Prstavac Waterfall (28 m high)

Milino Jezero Lake at 576 m above sea level

Galovacki Buk Waterfall and Galovac Lakr at 585 m above sea level

Bird's Eye view Picture clicked in 1937 Source: Link There are 6 small lakes between Proscansko and Galovac lakes at different heights. Vir at 500 m asl, Malo at 605 m asl, Veliko at 607 m asl, Baltinovac at 610 m asl, Okrugljak at 613 m asl and Ciganovac at 625 m asl

Proscansko Jezero at 627 m above sea level the highest lake. 

 

We took the shuttle back to entrance 2 from ST3 shuttle point near Proscansko. We were short on time, hence, chose to cut short a part of the trail between ST2 and Entrance 1. Perhaps will plan a visit in winter or fall. I heard the colors are grander in fall and the frozen lakes in winter are a surreal experience.

7 Days In Egypt : Giza, Cairo, Luxor And Aswan

Egypt was a dream come true. It was on my bucket list for ever so long waiting to be ticked. When COVID hit the world, I decided, that if things were coming back to normal, perhaps we should plan Egypt. Also, my mother wanted to see the pyramids while she was still fit enough to travel.

The Sphinx, The Pyramid of Khafre or Chephren (right), and The Pyramid of Menkaure (left)

We flew Kuwait Airways from Delhi to Cairo via Kuwait City. This is not a sponsored blog as is very obvious, but I can vouch for Kuwait Airways. Have taken it a few times and the service and food were more than good. In fact, I loved the Arabic food on the way to Cairo. The flight to Kuwait was about 4.5 hours. We were not asked for COVID clearance, but as a precautionary measure, we got ourselves tested and carried the COVID-19 negative certificates and vaccination certificates. We had a layover of four hours in Kuwait. The airport is not crowded, well serviced, has good food outlets and has free internet. Lounge facilities are good too but we didn't use them. There was no requirement. Over all the layover was not inconvenient.

Tourist Visa Requirements from India and Italy : 

As of December 2022, the Visa process from India and Italy is as follows:

From India: 

Required documents: 

1. Visa form (available on their Facebook page ) The consulate website is not quite user-friendly. 

2. Flight Tickets

3. Hotel bookings

4. 6-month bank statement. 

5. NOC from Employer (not mandatory)

6. 3 years IT returns (not mandatory)

7. Cover letter

8. 2 passport-size photos

9. 2 copies of the first and last page of the passport

10. Original passport

11. Guarantee letter from a travel agent in Egypt. This was clearly asked by the person who answered my call to the Delhi Consulate. They are prompt in answering calls. All visa-related queries are answered after 1:00 p.m. 

I think E-visa is possible from India but I am not entirely sure if it can work without a valid guarantee letter. The Guarantee letter was actually the most tricky part since I had already booked my flight tickets and hotels and had planned a certain itinerary. Most travel agencies, I approached for the letter, wanted me to buy their package, which included their itinerary and their choice of hotels. After a tedious search and a lot of inquiry on random forums on TripAdvisor and booking-dotcom, I came across Ahmed, a travel agent based in Cairo, who agreed to provide me the guarantee letters at a cost of $35 per person without me having to book anything with him. However, as a courtesy, I did tell him, I would prefer to book any tours or services, if required, from him. Since I was traveling with aged parents, I didn't want the hassles of transportation and tour guides in Egypt. Therefore, I went ahead and booked Ahmed for transportation and a tour guide for the sites I had planned to visit. It actually worked out pretty good for us, He provided us with a good AC car and guided us to all the places of interest I had planned. 

Those who do not wish to opt for tour guides and transportation services from agents can opt for Uber or Careem while in the city. Or get transportation services from the hotels they book with. However, I heard a lot of haggling happens in Egypt for car services within the cities ( I didn't have to face it since I had pre-booked my entire trip).

Coming back to the Visa process, as noted, getting the guarantee letter was the most difficult part of the process. The rest was pretty smooth. I applied at the Delhi embassy: 1/50 M, Niti Marg, Chanakyapuri, New Delhi, India, Delhi. We submitted the documents at a counter next to the entrance gate of the embassy.  It is open Monday - Friday 11-1 for visa-related work. I suggest calling them a day before to confirm the timings Phone number: 011 2611 4097.

The submission process took less than 5 minutes. The person at the counter checked the documents. Took a payment of Rs. 2700 per person for the application (Rs.300) and Visa (Rs. 2400). Shared a receipt and asked us to collect our passports after 5 days. We collected the Visa and passport on the 5th day at the same counter. Took us less than a minute. There was no crowd at all. I suggest carrying cash for the payment. I didn't see any ATMs close by and I am not sure if other modes of payment are accepted.

From Italy:

The process from Italy was a little different. Some of my family members live in Italy and they applied for the Visa at the Milan Consulate. They were asked to apply for authorization first. The authorization process required them to submit a form available on their website. Additional documents required are mentioned on the website. Tickets and hotel bookings are not required before authorization is approved. Also, they are prompt in answering calls and emails for queries and questions.

The authorization approval took over a month and multiple follow-ups. Due to the holiday season in November and December, the paperwork took longer than usual, I guess. After the authorization approval, they were asked to apply for the visa. The authorization approval is a guaranteed visa. Tickets and hotels may be booked after approval and copies are required during visa application. I don't think a guarantee letter is required when applying from Italy but we still got them to avoid any kind of hassle later. E-visa option is available from Italy. The option is mentioned on their website but the staff at the consulate were not aware of the e-visa process and had no clue that it existed also!

To sum it up, other than the guarantee letter, the visa process is pretty simple and hassle-free.

At Cairo International Airport

Cairo has four terminals. T1 is the old airport and is the terminal for budget airlines and non-star-alliance airlines. T2 is for international flights, mostly non-star-alliance flights again. T3 is Egypt Air's hub and is the terminal for Star Alliance flights and domestic flights run by Egypt Air. T4 is a seasonal terminal used only for Hajj passengers. Kuwait Airways flight arrived at T2 since it is not a Star Alliance partner. We noticed unlike all airports I visited, Guides are allowed into the airport, and they receive their respective tourist customers right at the immigration area. My family members flying from Italy landed at T1 and they were received by our tour agent. Due to some issue with my phone, I could not connect with the agent when we landed in Cairo. Also, the wifi at the airport is unpredictable. Rather it didn't work on my phone at all. My family members in the T1 terminal were able to use the airport wifi. 

Immigration was smooth. However, we had issues at the exit. It was crowded and chaotic, and there were charges for trolley carts which I never faced in any airport. I don't know if I was lied to or actually, it is charged. There were limited carts and somebody literally took away my cart and said it's paid for. I realized travel agents have men working at the airport, and it's kind of managed entirely by them. 

One irritating part of Egypt that we faced right from the beginning was being asked for money (in dollars - minimum 5 dollars) for any and everything. I think they will ask for money to even give the direction :) Guess, that's the way it is! It was an experience for the first time. Somebody came and picked up our luggage and put it in the baggage check-in belt at Aswan airport, we didn't ask them to - we were doing it ourselves. My sibling thought it was an airport worker so maybe to hurry things up he was helping us, but after putting one suitcase on the belt he asked for 5 dollars. It is my advice, do not let anyone come to your aid if you do not need it. Not for clicking pics, taking directions, etc, etc. We spent a good amount on just tipping for unnecessary stuff. 

Do keep some Egyptian pounds in cash for use at the airport. It will be useful when buying a SIM card. There are stalls for various mobile services in the exit lounge. Charges were pretty high, it is best to get international roaming but well, may depend. It is better to do a comparison when planning for your trip. I was able to contact our agent and my other family members once I got the new sim. We wasted almost an hour trying to get the phone working. My suggestion is to get international roaming at least for a day cause airport wifi may or may not work.

Currency:

US dollars are in great demand there. Most transactions happen in USD, if not in Egyptian pounds, We carried some Egyptian pounds from India but realized it was a bad decision and a huge loss. It is wise to convert the dollars in Egypt since the exchange rate is best there due to logical reasons. Euros work as well but are not the best option. Cash is preferred, though card facilities are available in most hotels, airports, and ticketing booths. However, local stores and restaurants may not have card facilities.

Weather:

We were in Egypt in late January. The weather was decent. Mornings and evenings were pleasant. A light jacket was handy. Afternoons did get extremely warm but a cool breeze once in a while gave good relief. I carried loose ankle-length cotton wear with long sleeves and scarves to cover the face. Yet I returned with burnt cheeks! Sunscreen is an absolute must. 

Places of interest:

Day 1: Giza

7 days are too short to cover all the important sites of Egypt. At a minimum 14 days are advisable. 

We planned to stay in Giza for the first two days since visiting the pyramids was our first priority. On the first day, we stayed at The Great Pyramid Inn, which is next to the Light and Sound show site. We watched the show from their rooftop restaurant. In fact, you can see a big part of the pyramid complex from the rooftop restaurant. The hotels on that lane are small budget hotels but neat and clean and really next door to the Sphinx. There are two entries to the Pyramid Complex one on the Sphinx side and the other near the Great Pyramid Side. This entry is close to the Mena House Hotel. It's a Marriott hotel and has a beautiful view of the Great Pyramid. On day 2 of our trip we moved to Mena House. It was pricey particularly because we went during peak season but was worth the stay.

Day 2: Giza

On day 2 we moved to Mena House. The main entrance to the Pyramid complex was just 2 minutes away. We got the tickets at the counter. The entry tickets to go inside the pyramids need to be taken here. Once you are in, it will be a long way back to buy the separate entry tickets into the pyramids. It's best to plan out way ahead whether you want to go inside the pyramids or not. Our guide suggested going inside the Pyramid of Khafre if we had to make a choice of one. We went ahead with that.

We walked to The Great Pyramid which is pretty close to the Ticket counter. Cars, horse carriages, and Camels are allowed in the complex. We traveled in a car. We also took a horse carriage ride and some of my family members took a camel ride to the Panoramic View hilltop. It's a small Hill, from where all the pyramids can be seen. It was definitely worth the $50 we spent. Well, once there, we stopped thinking about the money we were spending, since it was a once-in-a-lifetime trip and yes we knew Egypt was going to be the expensive one.

Will share the details of the Giza and Saqqara trips on Day 2 in a separate post.

Entry Passes for places of interest

It's a good idea to purchase the Cairo Pass and the Luxor Pass if planning to stay in Egypt for a long time and there's ample time to visit every single monument and tomb. The math works out well considering the entry tickets for tombs in Luxor can get quite expensive. Students get 50% off on the passes and if one purchases the Cairo pass, they get the Luxor Pass at a 50% discount and vice versa. When we were there, the Cairo Pass was $100 and Luxor Regular Pass was $100 and the Luxor Premium Pass was $200. Hence, getting the Cairo first and then the Luxor one works better. These passes are valid for 5 days. One needs to carry crisp dollar notes, copies of Passports (2 sets each for each pass), and passport-size photos. It's best to carry it from the home country since getting photocopies and photos in Egypt will get pretty expensive. Both passes are available in the Cairo Ministry of Antiquities. It might take a few hours to get both passes from the Ministry and should be planned accordingly. 

Cairo Pass is available at the Pyramids Complex Ticket Center. Luxor premium and regular passes are available at the Ticketing Center of Valley of Kings.

We did not opt for the passes, because we didn't have enough time to cover everything in just a week.

Day 3: Cairo

On day three, we toured Cairo and flew to Luxor in the evening. We went to the National Museum of the Egyptian Civilization where most of the mummies are preserved. Then we visited the historic districts of Cairo, also called Islamic and Coptic Cairo. I was about to give these a pass but that would have been a big big mistake. Will share separate blogs on both. I think if you are in Cairo you should not miss them.

If one has time, a train ride or a cruise to Luxor wouldn't be a bad idea. I heard it's a beautiful scenic route. We flew Egypt Air for all internal trips. Cairo to Luxor was a 1 hr flight. Luxor is a small tourist town and its domestic airport is pretty small. We were perhaps on the last flight that day. Due to some communication issue with our Hotel's pickup, we ran into a bit of inconvenience getting to the hotel late at night (everything in Lusor closes by 8:00 pm or earlier). People here start their day early and all temples and tombs open by 6:00 a.m. and close by 4:00 p.m. / 5:00 p.m. in some cases. At 9:00 pm, the airport was pretty deserted but then thankfully, we got a taxi. We were a teeny bit apprehensive in the beginning but the driver turned out quite friendly and got us safely to our hotel. The 30-minute ride took us $35. 

I had booked a West Bank hotel since I wanted to stay closer to the Valley of Kings and Queens. The hotel was lovely but a little difficult to locate. it was on the banks of the Nile and was built in Nubian style. I totally loved it. Djorff Palace is away from the main City but gorgeous for a stay. 

Day 4: Luxor

Day 4 started really early. We wanted tried to squeeze in as much as possible in one day. Well honestly, not a good idea but when time is a constraint and you are not sure if you can make a second trip again, there's no other option. The Valley of Kings and Queens opens at 6:00 a.m. and we kind of reached around 8:00 a.m. We wanted to visit the tomb of Nefertari, which is open to a limited number of visitors a day, and were told tickets get sold pretty quick. So, we decided to go to the Queen's Valley first. It was surprisingly almost empty. The entry fee is 100 EGP, which allows entry to any three tombs excluding Nefertari's tomb which costs 1400 EGP. Honestly, Nefertari's tomb was the best of all tombs in the Valley of Kings and the Valley of Queens together. Absolutely recommended.

From the Valley of the Queens, we headed for the Valley of the Kings. It was as crowded as can be. The entry fee is 260 EGP and allows entry into any three tombs excluding the three below which have separate entry fees:

1. Seti I - Tomb KV 17 - 1000 EGP 

2. Tutankhamen - Tomb KV62 - 300 EGP

3. Ramses V and VI - Tomb KV 9 - 100 EGP

We bought the entry ticket and the three additional tickets. I think they were all worth it. If I had more time, I would have covered the other tombs as well. I can never get enough of anything historical :)

By the time we completed the 6 tombs in Valley of Kings, the afternoon sun was scorching hot and we were exhausted. 

Still, we decided to head for the Mortuary temple of Hatshepsut. My legs didn't want to move at all but I literally dragged myself. I didn't want to miss a thing! And one should not miss the Temple of Hatshepsut. She is THE ONLY FEMALE PHAROAH EVER! and THE ONLY FEMALE RULER whose tomb gets the privilege to be in the Valley of Kings. For those times it was more than an achievement!

From there we headed to a local restaurant for a local lunch. It was scrumptious. After the late lunch, we were back to the hotel. The sun was still up, so some of the family members decided to go have a swim at the pool. By evening the temperature was pleasant again.

Details of Day 4 will be shared in a different post.

Day 5: Luxor

Day 5 started early again. We went to Luxor temple, followed by Karnak Temple, then we headed for Aswan. On the way, we stopped by the Edfu temple. The drive to Aswan was through the western desert road and it was beautiful. Details will be shared in a separate post. At Aswan, we stayed at the Benben Hotel, built on an island on Lake Nasser. Lovely hotel. I do recommend it!

Day 6: Abu Simbel

Day 6 started, at the earliest. We took a boat to the City at 4:30 a.m. Then a morning flight to Abu Simbel. Egypt Air has a to-and-fro package flight to Abu Simbel. Starts at 8:00 a.m. and reaches Abu Simbel around 8:45. An airport bus shuttles the passengers to the temple site. Waits for 1:30 hours and shuttles them back to the airport for the return flight at 11:55 a.m. 

One can also drive to Abu Simbel which takes about 4 hours one way.  Honestly, the flight was a little too hectic and I suggest, staying at Abu Simbel instead of Aswan. I I had to plan it any differently, I would have, flown to Abu Simbel the day before. stayed there overnight. Visited the temple at a slow pace without having to worry about missing the flight back. Anyway, Aswan doesn't have a lot to see unless one is an Agatha Christie Fan:) The Philae temple, the obelisk need barely half a day. The Aswan Dam tour and the Nubian Village tour weren't worth in my opinion, We spent 100 EGP for Aswan and $60 per person for Nubian Village, honestly, it was a total waste. I would suggest giving it a pass. This is the only bit I regret spending on! Will share the details of Day 6 in a separate post.

Day 7: Cairo

On the last day, we were back in Cairo. We didn't do much. Just lazed around. We stayed at Novotel, Cairo airport. It's just a 10-minute ride to T1 and T2. There is a free shuttle service from the hotel every 30 minutes. Our flight back to India was in the late afternoon. We flew back on the same route we came on Kuwait Airways via Kuwait.

Khajuraho, Unravelling The Sensuous To The Sublime

 My interpretation of Khajuraho in brush and paint 

Location of Khajuraho

THE SENSUOUS TO THE SUBLIME

Khajuraho, possibly a derivation from Khajurvahak (bearer of the date palm - Khajur (date palm) vahak (bearer) is a small town in North Madhya Pradesh. It was built around 950 AD by the powerful Chandela rulers of Bundelkhand, the descendants of the Moon as legends speak. The story of Khajuraho is well presented in the evening light and sound shows held in the western temple complex. As the legend goes, the Casanova Moon God Chandra, lost his heart to the beautiful Hemavati, the daughter of a high priest of Benaras. One day when Hemavati was bathing in a river, enamored Chandra, unable to resist her exquisiteness, descended from the sky, disguised as a handsome prince, and seduced her. After a night of passionate love, Moon left with a promise to her, that she would bear their son, who would grow up to become one of the most powerful kings of his times and establish a dynasty of equally powerful kings. As blessed, Hemavati bore Chandra's son Chandravarman who became the founder of the Chandela dynasty. Khajuraho was their first capital before shifting to Mahoba. It is said that the temples were built by Chadravarman to atone for his illegitimacy. While that's the more romantic legend, the historically documented version suggests Nannuk, a chieftain of a small Chandel clan as the founder of the Chandela dynasty. Probably the legend was later created to give a more divine lineage to the Chandelas thus legitimizing their Chandravanshi  (lunar lineage) status.

Parvati Temple and Chitragupta temple can be seen at the back (western group)

After the fall of the Chandela dynasty, this temple town, originally with 85 temples disappeared in isolation in the dense, tiger forests of MP, thus surviving the destruction and desecrations by the many Islamic invasions in the next 100 years. It was accidentally discovered in 1838 by British engineer T S Burt and General Alexander Cunnigham of the East India Company when their palanquin bearer led them to a hidden temple ground. The find brought into light 25 of the best-preserved medieval architectural marvels of India and a seductive Kamasutra legend.

Chitragupta Temple, as seen from the Jagadamba Temple (western group)

Today Khajuraho is synonymous with the art of Kamasutra (treatise on love). Ironically, Vatsayan's work on the subject written in the 3rd century had no particular relation with Khajuraho. How and when this association became an identity is difficult to trace. But of course, marketing tourism works wonders. Eroticism definitely has its way of titillating audiences and inviting them to the remotest of places. Nevertheless, the allure is unmistakable.

Erotic art in Khajuraho temples

The sculptures showcase carnal expressions of every possible nature. The voluptuous, graceful figurines etched to the finest details exude captivating sensuality. One definitely cannot ignore the erotic splendor. As ribald as it may sound, the panels depict explicit orgies, elaborate coitus, masturbation, homosexuality, and even bestiality. However, it is interesting to note, that though iconic for its erotic art, eroticism actually covers a very small part of the Khajuraho temples. And if one really dives deeper into the philosophy, this eroticism begins to appear more mystical and symbolic.

A curious question often arises, Why were these sculptures sculpted in temple precincts, especially in India where sex is considered extremely private and public expression of anything even remotely related is a taboo. There are various theories to answer this query. For that, we might need to travel back to the times when these temples were built and dig a little deeper into Hindu philosophy.

HINDU PHILOSOPHY

Core Hindu philosophy says, that every Purush (human/soul) born must work towards attaining good karma (action) through the four purusharthas (purpose of a human)/goals: Dharma (righteousness), Artha (wealth), Kama (pleasure) and Moksha (liberation). Thus, asserting kama is an essential aspect of human life. Only when in conflict, dharma must take precedence. Hinduism was more liberal and more scientific in its original principles than it is today under the influence of the political play of the so-called religion pandits. it's interesting again to note that in the 10th century, even homosexuality was more in acceptance than it is today.

Maslow's hierarchy of needs

In fact, if you really look at Maslow's hierarchy of needs, the most fundamental levels of needs are at the bottom and the need for self-actualization is at the top which precisely is the temple concept. Every religious philosophy originates from scientific roots. Self-actualization is nothing but the ultimate step to attaining moksha or nirvana, the absolute liberation of the soul, which is the key to reaching god. I believe finding oneself is reaching god. 'Aham brahmasmi',  I am God, an ancient Hindu philosophy that suggests that God resides within us.

Thus, the eroticism depicted is only a part of the various actions of a human being in a lifetime, like hunting, artistry, fighting, and worshipping, which fulfills the four purusharthas, kama inclusive. The men depicted in the sculptures are supposed, the everyday man, the priests, and the royalties. The women are supposedly the everyday women, apsaras, sura sundaris, courtesans, devadasis, yoginis, and court dancers. In ancient times, Indian men and women draped in various forms of saree or long cloth had long hair and were heavily bejeweled. The sculptures depict what they wore and dressed like in those times. The drapes are vividly detailed, and every fold and every crease is defined meticulously to demonstrate the remarkable finesse of the sculptors and artisans.

It is said that tantra was on the rise during ancient times (it is prevalent even today but in secrecy and has occult connotations - the Aghori sadhus and tantric practitioners are supposed to perform these spine-chilling rituals). The Chandelas like many others were also assumed to be great patrons of the tantric cult (as told by local guides). Tantric rituals were performed not only for personal liberation but also to augment the power of the kingdom. There were special yoginis and priests who performed these tantric rituals and maithuna (sacred sexual union) was a predominant part of these rituals. Tantric philosophy suggests that sexual energy can be channeled to transcend into spiritual liberation or unification with Shiva or the supreme force. The kundalini concept another aspect of tantric philosophy suggests a human has 7 chakras (energy points) and there is a coiled serpent in the lowest point of the spine called kundalini (the driving force). To attain moksha or to experience the ultimate mystical, spiritual bliss, this serpent must be awakened through the release of the latent energies in the 7 chakras, which is possible through various rituals, yoga, meditation, or maithuna. (I am not well versed with tantric or kundalini philosophies, so there might be errors in my understanding, and will therefore avoid delving into this subject in greater detail)

The Chausat 64 yogini temple was supposedly the abode of these temple yoginis. A particular sculpture has often been talked about and mentioned by the local guides, a woman undressing her transparent drape to ward off a scorpion climbing her left leg. Presumably, the woman is a yogini and the bearer of scorpions. Scorpions have from times immemorial symbolized human sexuality in various ancient cultures and have been reared by seductive yoginis for tantric purposes. This particular mythology suggests a second theory for the name Khajuraho. A scorpion was called Kharjura and Kharjura vahak is a scorpion bearer.

Why that level of eroticism?

I think every human at some point has fantasized the wildest. The idea is to release that extreme form of latent energy associated with craving and desire and then be completely devoid of the want for more. The goal is to arrive at that saturated state, the extreme peak. Once that state is attained, one is ready to move to the next level, where one is more in control of self. As depicted by the inner chambers of the temples the sculptures are more austere, pure, calm, depicted as singular entities, and free from any worldly expressions. A person who finds peace in this nothingness is then eligible to move to the innermost sanctum, the garbhagriha, which has stark walls, no openings (except the entrance door), and the idol. It is that absolute point where one is alone with self or god or the idol, the manifestation of God.

Therefore the concept of a temple is more a process of reaching moksha or unification with the supreme power leaving behind the worldly desires in steps, the basest to the supreme - the sensuous to the sublime.

Gods and Goddesses, sculpted on the western group of temples. Lord Ganesha (top) and Goddess Lakshmi (bottom) can be seen on the right

The temples are built of pink river sandstone with intricate and detailed carvings. It is said it took 25 years to complete each temple. It is one of the few historical sites where Jain and Hindu architecture makes a perfect blend and undeniably, one of the best. Erotic art or not, one can simply admire the skilled craftsmanship and the elaborate grandeur of these monumental edifices.

Jain and Hindu Architecture complement each other. Shantinath Temple on the left, Parshavnath Temple on the right, and a part of Adinath Temple seen behind Parshavnath Temple (eastern group)

Part of Matangeshwar Temple can be seen on the far left and Lakshmana Temple  (western group)

Apart from the temples, Khajuraho is also famous for the Dance festival held every year around Feb/March. With the backdrop of these magnificent temples, the festival is beyond doubt spectacular. A must-visit if you are an ardent fan of Indian classical dance and music.

LOCATION

Country: India

State: Madhya Pradesh

HOW TO REACH

Khajuraho has an airport, railway station, and bus service. There is a 6-day-a-week (off on Wednesdays) direct train from New Delhi as well, which runs from Hazrat Nizamuddin station. Reaching the train that November was quite a Dilwale Dulhaniya le Jayenge moment for me. Nope, no Shahrukh held out his hand, unfortunately:( I helped myself up :P. The journey takes roughly 8 hrs. At the railway station, one can find taxis and auto-rickshaws to reach the town center.

BEST TIME TO VISIT 

Anytime is a good time to visit Khajuraho, though summers are extremely hot and winters are mild as mentioned above, if you love classical dance and music, it would be worthwhile to visit this place during the dance festival held every year in February/March.

WEATHER and WHAT TO WEAR

It's mostly warm to hot in Khajuraho. Light cotton goes best. During winter, early mornings and evenings get colder and it's advisable to carry a jacket. 

WHERE TO STAY and WHAT TO EAT

Light and Sound Show at the Kandariya Mahadev temple complex

Hotels here range from luxurious 5-stars to inexpensive bed and breakfasts. During the dance festival, it gets very busy there and it is best to pre-book the hotels but otherwise, I would guess, rooms are available in most hotels. One can go there, see the rooms and then decide on the hotel (and am the kind who likes to keep an open itinerary, so that plans can be kept flexible!!).

Would make a special mention of a restaurant Bella Italiano run by an Italian lady. Both the Indian and Italian dishes there were quite good. It was so yummilicious (PS: don't try to find this word in the dictionary) I had a double dinner of plain ajwain daal and bhindi masala.

ACTIVITIES

Architectural excursions to the temple sites. One day is enough to cover all the temples but I would suggest giving a day to the Western main temple complex and a day to the eastern and southern temple complexes. One can just walk around or take an auto-rickshaw. Khajuraho is a small town and can be traveled conveniently on foot. There is a light and sound show in the evening at the main temple complex. There are local cultural shows in the evenings. There are also yoga and spa centers. I didn't try them. 

PLACES TO VISIT  

Places of interest in Khajuraho

Broadly, there are two sets of temple complexes, The western Group of temples and the eastern group of temples. As the names suggest, the western set lies to the west of the town, and the easter set lies on the west side of the town. Most tourists visit the Western group of temples since they are the best-preserved ones in Khajuraho but I think all are equally beautiful, and if one has time the Eastern ones should not be missed. The east also has some beautiful Jain temples.

Kandariya Mahadev Temple (left) and Jagadamba Temple (right) (western group)

Vamana Temple (eastern group)

Nandi Temple (western group)

Javari Temple (eastern group)

Dulha Dev Shiv Temple (eastern group)

Chaturbhuj Temple (Easter group but located far south of the town)

Pratapeshwar temple (western group)

Other places of interest close to Khajuraho

These places can be covered in a day or two from Khajuraho. There are auto rickshaws, trekkers, and rented cars to take you around.

1. Panna National Forest

Camouflaged Chital or spotted deer at Panna National Forest

2. Ken Gharial Sanctuary and Raneh Falls

Raneh Falls near Ken Gharial Sanctuary

3. Pandav Falls

Pandava Falls

4. Jardhoba rock paintings

5. Ajaygarh

Places of interest that can be tied with the Khajuraho itinerary

1. Orchha

2. Kalinjar

 

3. Gwalior

Gwalior Fort

4. Jhansi: Didn't get a chance to check out Jhansi but must mention a small vegetarian restaurant named Haveli. Rs. 100 thali of the most delicious Marwari food - unlimited helping of Makki ka roti/bajre ki roti/fulka roti with gur makkhan and ghee and of course full course rice and 5 items thaali (platter).

5. Bhopal and Sanchi

Madhya Pradesh has a rich heritage like Rajasthan. Historical sites and natural reserves are spread across almost the entire state. The roads are very well maintained and MP Tourism has done a very good job of providing good facilities and amenities for tourists, be it accommodation, food, or information centers.