For A Budget Trip To Malaysia: Part 1 - Peninsula

Malaysia Comes with the tagline 'Truly Asia' and in a way, it's no misnomer. Malaysia houses a population that is an eclectic mix of Asian origins, the native Malayans, the Chinese, and the Indians. Though officially an Islamic state, it showcases rich cultural diversity.

"12 days in $ 600"

Day 1

Kolkata (India) to Kuala Lumpur KLIA2 airfare on Airasia with baggage check-in was Rs. 6000 (375 RM approx).

Our Malaysian trip commenced from Kuala Lumpur. We landed at KLIA 2 (Kuala Lumpur International Airport Terminal 2) around 7 a.m. After freshening up at the airport, we decided to head for the City. The City is about 54 km from the airport and well connected by Express trains, buses, and taxi services. The ground transportation and the express train terminals are at the lowest level of the airport. Express train fares from the airport to KL Sentral are around 35RM and take about 30 minutes. We took an AC bus instead since the fare was 11RM only and took around 40 minutes to KL Sentral. The buses are comfortable and run at regular intervals. Taxis charge around 75 RM (I think!!!)

KL Sentral is the main transportation hub of Kuala Lumpur and is located in the city center. Most trains and buses run or connect from here. KL Sentral is well equipped with all the amenities and shops a traveler might need. There are restaurants, delis, shops, restrooms, shower rooms, locker rooms, and even prayer rooms.

Our plan was to hang around the city during the day and then take an overnight bus to Penang. At KL Sentral we were told that we can get interstate buses from the Terminal Bersepadu Selatan, the main bus terminal of Kuala Lumpur. The other option was taking a train from KL Sentral that departed at 4 p.m. We decided to stick to the overnight bus.

We kept our bags in the locker for a shared 20RM and one-time lock. After a quick breakfast of yummy Mushroom Soup and garlic bread from an Italian deli at the Sentral we headed for the Batu caves. We bought train tickets for 2RM and it took us about 30 mins to reach the Hindu temple caves. The caves are within walking distance from the station.

One of those rare places that touched my spiritual side. This cave temple has an enigmatic feel. Soft breeze, drizzling rain, the smell of sandalwood incense, temple music, and Vedic chants - a divine combination that gives goose bumps.

There is a 272-step climb to reach the main cave temple. On the way you are greeted by monkeys who don't miss any chance to snatch a bottle or food item you are carrying or pose for the camera. We spent a couple hours at the caves and took the train back to KL Sentral. At Sentral, we took tickets to Petronas Towers' KLCC station. The fare was 1.30 RM. We spent the evening hanging around the Petronas. In the evening the place is lit and the towers look absolutely amazing. A great example of post-modern architecture.  After a quick dinner at the tower, we headed back to KL Sentral. Picked our bags from the lockers and took the train to the bus station. The fare was 2RM. Buses run at regular intervals and we decided to take the 1 am bus to Penang. It was around 38RM and took us roughly 5 hours to reach Penang Island.

Total expenditure excluding food: 443 RM per person (including airfare)

Day 2

Our main destination at Penang was Georgetown. My suggestion would be to take the bus to Butterworth and then take the ferry to Georgetown directly instead of taking the bus to the Penang Bus station. We lost a lot of time waiting for a connecting bus to Georgetown from the Bus station.  It was a Friday, a holiday there. I believe the bus frequency is better on a regular day. The bus fare from Penang bus station to Georgetown is around 3 RM. There are taxis at the station but they are comparatively expensive charging around 25 RM.  Our hotel on Victoria Lane was within walking distance of the main graffiti streets that Georgetown is famous for. For the shower and storing our bags, the hotel charged us 20RM for two people. After a quick shower and breakfast at a Tamil restaurant nearby, we headed for a walk around the town.

Graffiti streets in George Town
(A UNESCO Heritage Site)

Next, we took the 2 p.m. ferry to Langkawi. The fare was 60 RM. We walked to the pier but there were buses and the fare was 2 RM or less. It took us 4 hours to reach Langkawi Island. Langkawi was comparatively pricey with no bus transportation and because of the local holiday season. The taxi from the pier to Pantai Cenang where most of the tourists head for budget accommodation took 25RM.

There are hotels ranging from 35 RM a room to 300 RM a room. We didn't prebook and it was a local holiday, pretty bad timing!!! Therefore, ended up paying extra for a non-ac triple bedroom (which we didn't need) but was the only one available close to the beach. We paid 120 RM which could have easily been 60 or 70. If you are good at bargaining which unfortunately I am not, am sure the accommodation prices can be managed for cheaper for a decent room. After freshening up we headed for a night walk around the market which almost emptied out by 9ish. We tried Malaysian street food for dinner. Something like satay but steamed not grilled.

Total expenditure excluding food: 210 RM per person.

Day 3

We had the option of taking different tours in Langkawi -  50 RM for a day tour of the mangroves, 250 - 600 RM or higher for snorkeling and scuba tours, 50 RM for adventure trek, and others ranging from 30 RM to 600 RM +. One can even rent bicycles and motorcycles for self-tours. My feet were in pretty bad shape and swollen, so we decided to take it easy and just dawdled along the beach which was pretty deserted. I assume most of the tourists had gone out for their respective day tours. Before heading back we decided to take a jet ski ride at 20 RM per person. After lunch, we took a taxi for 25 RM back to the jetty pier and took the ferry for 23 RM to Kuala Keddah.

At Kuala Keddah pier, buses are not very frequent, at least that was told to us, and since we were short on time we decided to take a cab to the bus terminus Shahab Perdana. The taxi took 20 RM for the commute. When we reached there, we were told all buses for Kuala Terengganu were full :( Quite disheartened while we were wondering what to do next, someone said, a special bus had been announced for the night. The bus departure was at 9:30 pm and the fare was  61 RM. Later we found that tickets for other sold-out buses were 50 RM and below. We went back to the agent and questioned him regarding the fare difference but he justified it by saying it was a special bus hence the special fare. Well, we were much too exhausted to argue in a foreign land. So yes, be careful.

The bus didn't quite arrive at 9:30 p.m. Rather the bus didn't arrive at all. Am assuming the bus operator didn't find enough travelers for the extra bus and finally sent us in a Van with 10 others at 11 pm past :P. Trust me had it been some other time and some other part of the world we would have protested but well it was drizzling, it was already too late in a small quaint town. We agreed to the deal. Fortunately, the road was good, it rained the whole night and from whatever little I could see, the route was beautiful.

Total expenditure excluding food: 149 RM per person.

Day 4

We arrived at Kuala Terengganu at around 6 a.m. It took us roughly 7 hours without any stops. The van dropped us at the Kuala Terengganu Bus Terminus. Our plan was to head to the islands. Perhentian or Kapas or Redang but then came the bad news. All islands on the east coast were closed due to the monsoons :( for roughly 4 months starting November. Well, most of the beautiful Malaysian islands are on the east coast and that definitely was one of our main attractions. Well, we couldn't go against Mother Nature. Lesson learned: Research better! Therefore please, NOTE: ALL EAST COAST ISLANDS IN MALAYSIA ARE CLOSED DURING MONSOONS ROUGHLY BETWEEN NOVEMBER - MARCH. One should surely get that confirmed before planning an island trip. A second NOTE: MONSOONS IN MALAYSIA MEANS RAIN NOW AND THEN. BE PREPARED WITH AN UMBRELLA/RAINCOAT OR JUST ENJOY GETTING WET :).

Next, we headed for the beach from the bus terminus to look for a beach hotel. There are no buses in Kuala Terengganu. Only Taxis!! The taxi charged us 24 RM for our hotel hunt.  The hotels on the beach were beyond our budget. Finally, we chose one at a walking distance. The hotel tariff was 100 RM. The hotels near the bus stop and Chinatown are comparatively cheaper. There are cheaper homestays near the crystal mosque area. After a hot shower and a good long sleep. We went out for a walk around the town. Since Malaysia is predominantly Islamic, there are many mosques and I must acknowledge that, architecturally the country has some really beautiful Islamic monuments. In the evening I took a taxi to the Crystal mosque which charged me 25 RM for the round trip and waited. The driver, an old gentleman was very hospitable and friendly for a lone traveler and did not charge the waiting fare.

Total expenditure excluding food: 149 RM per person.

Day 5

The next day early morning we went to the beach. The South China Sea has beautiful surfing waves and there were a couple of surfers doing their feat in the drizzling rain. Unfortunately, it started raining heavily and we had to rush back to the hotel. The hotels allow luggage storage after checkout for free for a few hours. Because of the rain, we couldn't explore the area much, but we still tried whenever the rain slowed. In the afternoon we headed for the Bus terminus in a cab for 12 RM. At the bus terminus, we kept our bags in a locker room for 4 RM a bag and purchased tickets for Melaka for 47 RM. Our bus was due for departure at 9:30 pm, so, we had some time in the evening to explore other areas in the town when the rain stopped. Kuala Terengganu is quite a nice place to hang around for a day or two. It's quiet and laid back. The islands would have made our stay more rewarding for sure. Maybe next time :)

Total expenditure excluding food: 63 RM per person.

Day 6

Borrowed from the we(My pics went hazy :( )

We arrived at Melaka Sentral early in the morning. I think the journey took us roughly 8 hrs. I was on some weekly medication, which made me quite sick. So Day 6 in Melaka didn't go exactly as I had wished. We picked a hotel in China town which was way out and a big mistake. There is one bus that runs every 1 hr to Chinatown and it takes around 30 minutes to reach its destination. The fare is 2 RM. A taxi would charge 25 RM.

A better place to stay in Melaka is the City center which is close to the UNESCO heritage sites. Our hotel tariff was 60 RM.  I slept almost till 3 p.m. The day was pretty mismanaged and we ended up not seeing much. Rather we managed to visit Mosque Selat only at the Malaka strait on an island the Melaka Pulau. (Malaysian for the island is Pulau and for the beach is Pantai). Mosque Selat is an absolute must if visiting Melaka.

Later we bought tickets to KLIA2 for 25 RM of the last bus leaving at 8:30 pm.  The bus to the city center fare was 2 RM. The taxi to Mosque Selat from the city center was 20 RM. The taxi fare from Mosque Selat to Chinatown was 20 RM. Taxi fares can be bargained I believe - am bad at it :P. The taxi fare from Chinatown to Melaka Sentral was 25 RM. This was the most mismanaged most expensive and least fruitful day of our trip.

Total expenditure excluding food: 154 RM per person.

Total expenditure for 6 days excluding food: 1168 RM / Rs. 18688 per person.

 ( I have not included food expenses here but the entire trip with the food, airfare, and all the mismanaged extras and the souvenirs totaled Rs. 40K.  We ate well and spent at least 30 RM on food per day)

PS: A good way to travel across Malaysia would be to rent a car. The roads are pretty good in most places.

Day 7

Off to Borneo. Contd. in Part 2

On The Road To Revelation

The many moods of the mountains

Sitting there in a small room in a nunnery in a faraway, mystic valley, I wrote a letter every day, which never made its way to the post office. There was no post office in the closest reachable mile. I often wondered, if I ever mailed them will they be read? or will the words lose their meaning in the passage of time? 

The place felt like the last point on earth where the road reached its end. Beyond that tiny village were miles and miles of barren mountains; majestic, immovable, invincible yet ever-changing! Once in a while, random adventure seekers trekked across them, enduring all the adversities, of a rough terrain inhabited by snow leopards and grizzly bears,  for that ineffable, glorious feeling of having triumphed over the untamed.  Aware of my limitations, I contended myself by clicking pictures of the mountains from my window every morning. 

Some days, the mountains were cloaked behind layers of cottony clouds waiting to reveal well-kept secrets. Some days, the peaks glistened with fresh dust of snow while romancing the sun rays kissing them. There were days when the mountains looked dry, barren, and lifeless almost in mourning. Yet other days are like a surreal painting on a bright blue canvas. And then there was a day I saw the twin rainbows arched across the brown range much like the drawings I used to make as a child - a dream come true but ephemeral (by the time I ran to fetch my camera the clouds hid them back). The mountain kept changing, from misty, mysterious, dark, and intimidating to bright, alluring, and inviting.

Change they say is inevitable. And change they say should be welcomed with grace. Yet the change that brings with it apprehension, fear, insecurity, and the misery of ‘letting go’? Or maybe not! Change can be beautiful if we find the beauty in ‘discovering the new’.

That was perhaps a pseudo-optimist speaking. I hadn't accepted the change. Even in that beautiful land, among those warm, friendly people there were moments I was unhappy and unconsciously drowned in self-pity for a self-imposed internal conflict. 

Then one day, Sonam (pseudonym) asked me one of the most asked questions, “What does love feel like, didi?” It was a beautiful sunny day, I was watching the changing mountains from the monastery terrace. They were glittering like gold bathed in the first rays of the fresh autumn morning. I was about to click on my antique camera when Sonam arrived. She is a 14-year-old nun. Curious, bubbly, and playful like any other teenager, the only difference was she wore a red robe.

She was offered to serve God when she was born as most Buddhists in this part of the world do. I was told, it’s a tradition to offer the secondborn to god. The second son becomes a monk and the second daughter becomes a nun. The elder ones carry the lineage forward. Not sure if I agree with the tradition or not. Is it right to have your fate decided when you are just born? They say you get to choose when you are a teen, whether you want to continue but with that choice, they are also reminded all through their growing years that breaking a promise to god would be considered an unforgivable sin. The bad karma will make the next life hell. And maybe this fear does not allow the girls to give a thought to the other choices. Or maybe their faith eventually grows so strong that fear finds no place nor is there the need to question. It is difficult for me to arrive at any answers, but most do not renounce their oath to god with kept faith and complete willingness.

Sonam's question shocked me. Which love is she talking about? Do nuns think about love, the love between a man and a woman? or is she talking about humanity and love? “Sonam, what do you know about love?” I asked with a forced smile, my heart racing with the apprehension of what I might hear next. “Didi, I know all about boyfriends.” She answered with a proud I-also-know-stuff tone. Oh ok! I relaxed, I can handle that. “Are nuns allowed to have boyfriends?” I asked the obviously silly question while still trying to hide my initial shock. “No, didi, it’s a secret.” Answered Sonam with a mischievous twinkle in her eyes. “Hmm! Do you have a boyfriend?” I asked, almost easing up. “ No! I don’t but I like this monk from the …. gompa. He makes my heart flutter.” She let out her big bad secret in one innocent flurry. I didn't have to fake my smile anymore, “Haha! Sonam, so you already know what love feels like. Love makes the heart flutter.”

“Didi, if someone sins, what happens in the next life?” “ I don’t know Sonam. I don’t know what happens in the next life. Death is such a mystery and the next life an even greater mystery. There's so much to absorb in this life that I never thought about the next. All I can tell you now is to focus on your present life. Do what your heart wants to do. Provided you do not hurt or harm anything that breathes. As long as you respect all living things, be it another human or a plant, as long as you respect nature, and all that it offers, as long as you respect the faith your elders have taught you, I think your next life should be great fun. Don’t worry about that”

“Is it a sin if I don’t want to be a nun?”  “Hmm!” I knew this was coming and I knew I couldn’t answer that question. I was not allowed to.

I was sent there by a Buddhist organization to teach them English and Hindi, I should not, rather, make any kind of critical comments about their religion, faith, and beliefs. Had I been anywhere else, I would have said, “No, it’s not a sin. God wouldn’t mind. God wants you to be happy. If you are happy getting married, having kids, studying further, doing a job, or anything in the world that makes you happy, God wouldn’t mind.” But being where I was then, I felt it was inappropriate for me to feed her curiosity and raise questions about the faith she grew up with. Hers was an impressionable age and I shouldn't end up imposing my half knowledge.  Instead, I left her with a question, she may have pondered upon later, ”Are you happy with your life as it is now? Do what makes you happy. I am sure God wants you to be happy.”

I remembered something from a Hindi movie and told her, “Chinta Koni” Curious, she asked, “What does it mean?” I said in Rajasthani it meant “No worries” “Oh! And where is Rajasthan? Are there mountains like here? What do they eat…do they know our language...what do they wear? …..” The plethora of questions poured out one after the other. I started answering them in great detail. This was way easier.

And in the back of my mind, I thanked the maker for the many opportunities and choices I was given. 

(PS: By the end of the trip, I should have torn all the letters. Gracefully accepted the change and appreciated the freedom I was blessed with to choose my way of life. And that would have made the appropriate end to this piece. But I didn't. I saved one hoping it had reached its meant destination.)

Thank You Mr. Bell!

Our Arunachal trip was a usual last-minute unplanned 'let's go anywhere. My friend had just returned from Canada after a rigorous MBA torture and wanted a break, while I was visiting Assam, the neighboring state.

I announced the exciting plan to my (presumably) not-going-to-be-very-excited father, 'Baba, we are off to Arunachal tomorrow!' Nonplussed, he questioned, 'Who goes to Arunachal in peak monsoons?'

I sheepishly grinned back at him making the "I" very evident! My travel partner joined in to convey a stronger "we"!!

There was a silent, yet very obvious 'you kidding me?' SIGH! Having known me all my life, Baba decided not to waste a second or a syllable putting sense into my obstinate head. He gave a  hesitant affirmative nod and dived back into his morning newspaper ritual. 

We headed out to get the inner line permit from Arunachal Bhavan soon after breakfast. And there took place our little episode!!

Yup!! little did we realize the 5-minute task would cost us an entire day and a bit of our feminine dignity (Now don't imagine the worst, it was less than too serious). When we handed in the application form, the registrar at the desk, scanned us thoroughly from head to toe to my utter discomfort. "Hmmm! Who else is going with you?" he said turning his glance back to the application forms on his desk.

"Oh! I am going with her and she is coming with me :)" I said, closing the eager reply with a big smile recalling some wise words of a wise soul that 'smiles especially with dimples often induce speedy service.'

"Hmm!! So you are going alone!!" :/ he replied sounding much too disinterested.

"Absolutely NOT Sir!! I think you heard me wrong! We both are going together!" (Big Smile again)

"Yes! That's what I said, you both are going alone!" he was still perusing the measly one-page form as if it contained years of historical research that needed meticulous examination.

"Well NOT really Sir, I think there is a slight confusion. SHE and ME are going together. TWO is not equal to alone :)!!!" (Barely holding on to the Big smile! - my cheeks had started to hurt!!)

Piqued, he replied, "Exactly, two young girls should not be traveling alone. Do you have no objection letters from your parents?" he looked up just when I gave my cheeks their much-needed rest.

Surprise took over the smile! We looked askance at him. 'Why do we need No Objection letters? (Having traveled all across the globe in the last two decades, this is the first time we were asked for any such thing as a NOC).  'We are above 18, well above 30 if that helps. Here are our passports in case you have any doubts, I retorted still trying to smile.

Mr. Baruah was obviously oblivious to the hint given. 'WE are INDEPENDENT women'. He simply scanned us again with greater scrutiny this time, almost making me sound like a habitual liar, " Hmm! Guess passports can't be wrong!! So, do you have No Objection letters from your respective spouses?"

AArgh !!! Even the fact that he still doubted our age in the passport (which on any other given day would have been a reason to celebrate) couldn't stop the desperate scream almost forcing its way out of my larynx. Thankfully I managed to swallow it back (together with the hurt pride) on time!! Holding my calm, I said, "Sir, We are not married!!"

Bam!!! His eyes grew big, round, and curious. I was on guard. Yes!! we have met that expression a million times before from strangers and non-strangers, especially from sexagenarians. I could clearly read the myriad thoughts that ran through his inquisitive brain. Past experience instinctively prompted us to revert his focus to the main context before he digressed into the next obvious track. I was not willing to welcome unsolicited advice regarding the sanctity of social precepts...blah blah blah

"Don't you think girls.... by 30 you should be...."

I hastily interrupted what sounded like the opening of a very familiar speech, "Sir, I have come from Delhi and she from Bombay. It's impossible for us to get NOCs from our parents right now. We have only 7 days' leave and we would like to start our trip tomorrow. We shall be greatly obliged if you can kindly ...." Suddenly I found myself weak in genteel vocabulary.

"Rules are rules ladies! I can't do much. Girls get into all kinds of weird mess and then we are unnecessarily harassed by parents." He popped a 'pan' into his already rufous mouth and added. " Please go and meet the Director. If he approves this, you are good to go."

I was all agog to know 'What' weird mess (particularly) girls get into? Ever so frustrated, this time I was on the verge of a verbal explosion when the Dalai lama photo hanging on the wall behind Mr. Baruah whispered, "Peace on earth!!!! Focus on your agenda  - the permit."   We nodded, controlled that pugnacious urge, and headed for our next destination - The Director's office.

The same round of questions followed at the Directors! Sigh!!! And all we really sought was a permit for a week's travel in Arunachal Pradesh  Why was it so difficult?

The WHY actually has a simple answer 'We are women'. If something unpleasant happens, we, apparently, have a lot more to lose! Second thoughts, are men really safer than women? Don't we have the right to be responsible for ourselves? I wondered?! "Do you require parents or spouse letters in case of men traveling 'alone' in twos!! I think that's more important? The weird things are because of them!! and sometimes the weird things may happen to them as well" (Not quite the feminist nazi but this seemed honestly unfair)

The director flashed a guilty grin and said, "No only under 18s!!" I looked around for another 'Dalai Lama' photograph. Dear Lord, do we waste time arguing about fair and unfair, or just beg, plead or even threaten at gunpoint - "Give us the blessed permit"!!! We voted for begging and pleading. Humiliating as it may sound that was the ONLY closest thing possible to get us moving towards our destination the next day. Maybe we can sit on a 'dharna' (agitation) in front of Arunachal Bhavan on our way back looking at the new trend in our country.

Back to agenda - How do we produce a No objection letter?!?? Go back home, get a letter from Baba, ask uncle to send my friends and waste another day, or (simply Write one ourselves right now). Damn! the idealist me!! can't lie!! Can't fight a wrong with another wrong!

The closing time was just a few minutes away and we were about to go back home disappointed when the phone buzzed - Mr. Bell at our rescue:)

 "Sir, would you like to talk to our parents or even video conference?"  He reluctantly agreed. We got our permits. (Very Big Smile :)

..............

Dedicated to Dr. Alexander Graham Bell and Mr. Martin Cooper who made our trip possible.

Closing On the lines of Satyamev Jayate: Should Arunachal Bhavan rethink the No Objection letters for women above 18? Vote for Change!!:)

PS: 1. Monsoon was indeed the wrong time to travel.
2.  There were definite safety concerns in Arunachal.

The Italian Holiday

They keep saying on the radio here - If you are bored You are boring. Just had a lazy Saturday afternoon. I was so bored that I could die :) Finally decided to watch an old classic "Houseboat". Carry Grant and Sophia Loren did wonders:) Loved watching the movie all over again and more so loved to hear the "Bing Bang Bong" Song. It made my day:)

And the gorgeous Diva reminded me of my Italian Holiday.

Prego, prego

Source: Pinterest

Anywhere you may go
Make each day be a day full of fun
If there's a game or a girl to be won
Do it with a Bing Bang Bong
(A Bing Bang Bong)
A Bing Bang Bong

Presto, presto
Do your very besto
Don't hang back like a shy little kid
You'll be so glad that you did what you did
If you do it with a Bing Bang Bong
(A Bing Bang Bong)
A Bing Bang Bong

Be like Cristobal Columbo
Take a chance, take a chance
Don't be a dopey or a dumbo
Goin' 'round in a trance

One step, two step
Step into a new step
Live your life with a zip and a zing
You'll have the world on the end of a string
If you do it with a Bing Bang Bong
(A Bing Bang Bong)
A Bing Bang Bong :)

For an architect, Italy is heaven, and being there felt like the big fat History of Architecture by Sir Bannister Fletcher came alive. No words are enough to describe that country that simply mesmerizes. Italy was a backpacking trip with a few friends. We flew from Chicago to Zurich. After a couple days in Switzerland, we took the Euro rail to Milan from Lucerne about 4 and a half hours of scenic rail journey.

Imagine enjoying an Italian gelato standing by the Grand Canal right under the Rialto bridge at midnight and staring at the starlit sky... :) An absolute Dolce far niente moment yet by far so blissful. So I learned the wonderful phrase in Italy which meant 'Sweet Doing Nothing' :)

The Italian Holiday 1 (Itinerary details)

From Milan, we took the train to Venice, one of my absolute favorite cities in the world. From Venice, we headed for Pisa and Florence. From Florence, we took the train to Rome and later the Vatican. From Rome, we flew back to the States.

www.Eurail.com will give the latest information on ticket pricing.

Italian Rail Network