On A Lone Trail

I don't belong to the category of swashbucklers but my love for traveling took me on roads where I had to step out of my comfort zone. Wise men say, face your fears and fear will succumb to you. Quite honestly, many of my fears simply magnified further :P. While on a white water rafting trip, I kept screaming at the guide to turn back, almost believing my heart would collapse but of course, the hearts are much stronger than we assume. End of the course, I vowed never to raft again, not even for a million dollars not even at gunpoint. But yes I tried something else next time. Like another wise man once said, 'Courage is not the absence of fear but rather the judgment that something is more important than fear'. Guess learning something new, experiencing something new, exploring something new was far more important.

Being alone was one of those many things I feared.

Alone! evoked a feeling of intense dread. Perhaps, I can blame it on my over-protected and sheltered childhood, or maybe it's just how I am - a wee bit timid and over-conscious. Watching a movie alone in a theater, eating alone in a restaurant, and dancing alone on a stage, were (or rather still are) a few of the many things I shirk from. More due to plain awkwardness than fear. Living alone? wasn't even the part of my worst nightmares and traveling alone? wow!! was that even a thing?!!! 

Alone was definitely out of the question for a very very long time till I first learned to stay alone when I started working, yet I was surrounded by friends and family to really feel a solitary existence. The traveling alone happened when I came back to India. My trip to Lahaul and Spiti Valley was my first solo excursion and unlike the rafting experience, it gave me the courage to try many more journeys alone, more precisely on life's road. Had read somewhere - 'The most important thing that being alone teaches is emotional self-sufficiency' and that sure is true.

We were at a national park in Borneo, trekking since 9 a.m., and on the last two trails in our itinerary. I had unconsciously moved ahead of my friend. The sun had peaked. The swelter of mid-afternoon was exhausting. My shirt was drenched in sweat. The feet hurt. I looked at the watch; it was almost noon. The map read another 3-hour trek ahead. An additional half an hour, if I added my less-than-average pace. The last boat off the island was scheduled to leave at 4 p.m. I reminded myself I should return by 3. Arriving at a bench in the trail, I turned round to find no one. I decided to wait, Nat couldn't be too far away. After 10 minutes I got worried! Should I turn back? Should I move forward? Did she go back? Is she hurt? I was trying to decide the next step when I saw a couple approaching from the opposite direction. They looked tired. The tall, well-built, athletic man had removed all his clothing, save the shorts. The heat made his white skin burnt and ruddy.

I asked, 'How's the path ahead?' He said, 'A tad bit bad for a short stretch, and then it gets fine. Manageable. You should be fine.' I asked if they met others? He said, 'None for a very long way. I doubt you'll meet any.' 'Oh! Okay. I was trekking with a friend, and she lagged behind, not sure if she went back or if she met with some accident on the way!' They assured me, that they would look for her and that it's tough to get into a bad accident here. The burly man said, 'Worst case she might have sprained her leg but don't worry mate, we will take care of the necessary.' They suggested I move forward and complete the trek. I thanked them for the boost yet there were apprehensions.

.

Trekking alone in a national park in a rainforest wasn't the most tempting proposition for me. I almost decided to turn back. Time was also a factor. I had just enough time to complete the hike if I didn't wait. After a quick debate with myself, I forged ahead. How often do we get such opportunities in life? Today I had the time and the means. Tomorrow I may have neither.

After a short rocky climb, I arrived at a sandy plateau with sparse vegetation followed by a dried-up stream, and then came a long grassy stretch. Soon, I could see the sea at a distance. WOW!!!  I wish Nat had come. This was way out of the world. There was a trail that took one down to the beach but I didn't have enough time. There's so much to do and so little time. Whatever little we are able to accomplish, is a blessing!

Perhaps I could make it because the trails were well-marked and I didn't meet any animals on the way. At the end of the trail waited a breathtaking sight and an exhausted heart that sighed with relief and pride for completing that which had begun.

The way back was easier. The path is no longer strange or scary and .....fear?!, I left it at the cliff edge :)

PS: Nat was fine. The strong sun had given her a bad headache and hence she decided to wait at the pier.

Abhaneri: Off The Beaten Track

This small village was once Abha Nagari, the city of radiance, established by Raja Chand. With the changing seasons and the turn of tides, Abha Nagari became Abhaneri and was gradually forgotten. Years and years later some explorers rediscovered it while trying to find ancient step wells and still some years later some Hollywood and Bollywood movies brought it back on the map of tourist destinations.

Chand Baori, one of the largest and deepest step wells in India and perhaps the world

LOCATION

Country: India
State: Rajasthan
Closest City:  Jaipur

HOW TO REACH

Abhaneri is located approximately 95 km from Jaipur and approximately 250 km from New Delhi. Hardcore bag packers can take a bus from Delhi or Jaipur.

We took a personal vehicle from Jaipur to Delhi and on the way we stopped by Abhaneri.  With more time in hand, one can include Bhangarh and Sariska in the itinerary.  (Click for Bhangarh post)

From Jaipur one has to take NH11 (Jaipur-Agra highway) towards Dausa and drive to the toll gate at Sikandar, Rajasthan. Abhaneri is about 3 4 kms from Sikandar-Alwar toll gate. Most people know about the Baori and finding the place is not a difficult task. The village is very small and the only two noticeable places there are the ruins of the Baori and Harshat Mata temple.

Leaving Jaipur, heading towards Dausa through the Aravallis. The road is flanked by old havelis.

The step well is almost 100ft deep, 13 stories down with 3500 steps (source: Wikipedia)

Step wells were prominent in western India, southern India, and some parts of Pakistan. The wells also known as Baori, Baoli, and Vav in the local language were mainly constructed in (but not limited to) places with water scarcity. The steps were used for access and regular maintenance of the wells. Some wells had religious significance and were constructed within temple complexes with exquisite carvings of deities while some were meant for private or public bathing or for social gatherings much like the Roman baths. 

Chand Baori was built as a part of the Harshat Mata temple complex by Raja Chand. The Well came into prominence after it made cameo appearances in some Hindi and English movies (The Dark Knight Rises, the Fall, Paheli to name a few). 

The tessellation gets the head spinning :P

Restoration work is currently on (march 2016) and entering the well is strictly prohibited. There are steps on three sides and the fourth side has various chambers and terraces. Some suggest it was a temple while others say they were chambers for the kings and queens. 

The Harshat Mata (goddess of happiness) Temple stands adjacent to the Baori

This 8th or 9th-century Maha-maru-style temple was also built by Raja Chanda of the Chahamana dynasty of Nikumba Rajputs. Its most beautiful part once upon a time was the internal dome adorned with delicate carvings but today it's fallen apart and restoration work is in process. Its plinth still has some beautiful artwork.

Rajasthan was once addressed as Maru-desh or the land (desh) of desert (maru), hence the architectural style that evolved in this part of western India in the early medieval era was called the Maha-maru style. 'In this style, the temple body is treated as though it is a monolithic mass sculpted out from living rock. Its decorations are reminiscent of those possible in a brick-and-stucco tradition; they seem appliqué-like, with the carved ornamentation clothing the temple under a richly embroidered veil'. (source)

Three Seasons In Yellowstone National Park - The Fall

Yellowstone is an active super-volcanic park and boasts a grand display of vivid geothermal features, perhaps the only one of it's kind in the world. As noted in the park website, its a home to more than 10,000 features of which more than 300 are geysers.  With all its spectacular flora, fauna and natural wonders, this park has been given a deserving place in the list of UNESCO world heritage sites. 

West thumb Geyser Basin

The geo thermal features in the park are:

Hot springs: Hot springs are formed when super heated ground water surfaces into a wide pool without any constrictions in its plumbing system. The hot water cools down on reaching the surface and gets replaced by hotter water from below and this cycle continues till someday the water depletes from the ground reservoir or there are constrictions formed in the passage which results in the formation of fumaroles or geysers.  

Source: internet

Geysers: Geysers are hot springs with constrictions in the passage of ground water rising to the surface. The constrictions, usually near the surface, prevent the water from circulating freely. The hot water fails to cool and high pressure steam is formed below the surface which eventually explodes out in the form of a geyser. Water is expelled faster than it can enter the geyser's plumbing system, and the heat and pressure gradually decrease. The eruption stops when the water reservoir depletes or when the system cools down.

Fumaroles in the Mud Volcano basin

Fumaroles: A fumaroles or  steam vents, occur in openings like cracks and fissures in volcanic regions when superheated water (with temperatures as high as 280°F (138°C) vaporizes before reaching the surface due to drop in pressure or due to short supply of water in the underground reservoir. Steam and other gases (often toxic) emerge from the vent, with hissing or whistling sounds like it happens through a pressure cooker. 

Mudpots: Mudpots are acidic hotsprings or fumaroles. Microorganisms convert hydrogen sulfide, rising from the depths of the earth into sulfuric acid, which breaks down the surrounding rocks into clay thus forming a muddy acidic bubbling pot.

Travertine terraces: Travertine terraces are formed from limestone or calcium carbonate deposits from hot springs. 

Mammoth hot springs travertine terrace

Microbial mats and thermophiles: Microorganisms called thermophiles (heat lovers) or extremophiles (lovers of extremity), inhabit the volcanic regions. These microorganisms when clustered together in millions form microbial mats. These microbial mats contribute to the colors of the geothermal features. An article explaining this phenomena.

So, our third visit to Yellowstone was during a fall long weekend after a year of our second visit. We planned to fly to Jackson Hole, Wyoming and then drive down to the park through the South gate via Grand Teton National Park.

Must make a mention, the flight landing in Jackson hole is one of the most spectacular I have ever seen. Its a big regret that I was too mesmerized to click a photo or take a video :(

While the oblivious 'me' was gazing aimlessly out of the aircraft window, the flight in gradual descent emerged out of the dense cottony veil of clouds, swept smoothly down through a sky passage between two snow peaked mountains into the lap of a green grassy bowl surrounded by a tall majestic range. An unforgettable stupendous experience.

The tiny but busy airport of Jackson hole is located amidst the breathtaking Teton range and that makes it one of those exclusive airports with the most beautiful flight landings. Anyone visiting Jackson hole must take the flight experience at least once.

Flight take off at Jackson Hole airport

We stayed in Jackson hole for a day and I thoroughly enjoyed its picturesque locale. The hole part of the name is quite apt. The town, indeed, seems to be located in a hole between the mountains. It is a small, cosy, laid back, peaceful town with a lively downtown and lots of fun stuff.

Early next morning, we drove down to Yellowstone National Park. The scenic drive took almost a couple hours. On the way, we stopped at a viewpoint at Grand Teton National Park, the Jackson lake dam and Reservoir and Lewis lake. The glimpse of Grand Teton National Park was quite impressive and we were tempted to hang around longer but Yellowstone was our primary destination and we had to curb our detour having made the promise to come back later for the Teton experience.

Jackson Dam 

Lewis lake

We stayed at a lodge in the yellowstone park for the next two days. On the fourth day we flew out of Jackson hole to our respective destinations. All three of my yellowstone visits were short weekend trips and that definitely did no justice. There's lots to do, lots to see and its never enough.

Geysers submerged in yellowstone lake

Fishing cone geyser (inactive)

One of my favorite destinations in the park is the lake. Its absolutely gorgeous and I can just sit at the beach for hours doing nothing but gazing and day dreaming :) and I really did that for a while.

Some fascinating features around the lake are the submerged pools and geysers like the fishing cone. 'The name Fishing Cone can be traced back to tales told by mountain men of a lake where you could catch a fish then immediately dunk it into hot spring and cook it on the hook.' - source: wikipedia. 

I was told, that in early 20th century, the park visitors could actually fish trouts in the lake and then cook them in the hot spring but since 1911, this activity has been strictly prohibited. Visitors started clogging the vents of the geysers and springs and disturbed their ecological system. Well, cooking may not be allowed today but canoeing, kayaking and boating are and these are popular activities in the park.

The Grand Canyon of Yellow Stone

 

Brink of upper falls

Brink of lower falls

The grand canyon of yellowstone is another popular attraction of yellowstone. There are many hiking trails around the area leading to the two falls and the yellowstone river at the canyon base. We were short on time but still managed a couple of short hikes. Animal sighting during this visit was limited to the usual herds of bisons and elks. I think one needs to camp around the valleys and rivers for better animal sighting. Next time.... next time :) Thankfully there's always a next time :)

The lake meets the spring

Three seasons in Yellowstone National Park - Winter - North gate >> Part 1

Three seasons in Yellowstone National Park - Summer - East gate >> Part 2 

So I am told, the west entry is the best since it is centrally located and provides access to all parts of the park easily. This entry is closest to Idaho Falls, Idaho. I have not stayed in the park as yet and have yet to visit it in Spring. Definitely this time it will be the West.

Three Seasons In Yellowstone National Park - The Summer

Yellowstone is one of my favorite holiday destinations. It is an active volcanic park and one of the most exotic destinations in the world. An absolute must for a nature lover. Wanting to fulfill my idiosyncratic wish to enter this volcanic extravaganza from all it's five gates, I went back to the park after a year of my first visit. This time in summer and through the East gate. 

"Nothing ever conceived by human art could equal the peculiar vividness and delicacy of color of these remarkable prismatic springs. Life becomes a privilege and a blessing after one has seen and thoroughly felt these incomparable types of nature's cunning skill." - Yellowstone expedition's leader, Ferdinand Hayden (Source)

'Next to the motel we lodged at, was a quaint house on a hill top. At first glance, Edward Scissorhand's castle flashed in my mind sans the snow of course. It had an eerie magnetism about it. An engineer's unfinished dream, the Smith Mansion in Wapity valley is an example of unique artistry. Francis Smith had started this project as a house for his family but soon lost himself entirely to the madness of building it (such was the story explained by the motel owner). He single handedly pieced every part of this five storied fantasy. Whether it was bringing the partially fire damaged lodgepole pines from the nearby rattlesnake mountains or designing the fairy tale dining table, or shaping the giant swing, or crafting the elk horn door knobs or constructing the elegant gable roofs, day after day for 12 long years he dedicated himself to this solo task. There was also a little love story attached to the legend and this solitary insane involvement. It is said, so deep was Mr. Smith's love for his wife, that when she separated from him, he directed all his devotion and energy to building this dream project with such intense passion that even his death came from a fall while working on a balcony during one of the crazy westerlies visit, Wyoming is (in)famous for.'

. It's story. 

So, our summer trip to Yellowstone happened on the July 4th long weekend. We planned to base our trip from Cody, Wyoming. We started our drive from Fargo and it took almost half a day to reach Cody via Billings, Montana. 

On our way to Cody, we were literally chased by a storm. We could see the dark clouds following us with great speed while the radio kept announcing storm alerts. That was one interesting race. Well we did eventually escape it by taking shelter in a small town deli. 

We booked a hotel in the outskirts of Cody, since all lodges in the park were already booked due to peak holiday season. Lesson learnt: If planning to stay in the park, plan ahead and book ahead particularly during national holidays and summers.

'Most scenic 52 miles in the United States' was quoted by President Roosevelt for the 45 minute Buffalo Bill scenic byway drive from Cody to Yellowstone, through the gorgeous volcanic Absaroka range. I would second Teddy Roosevelt anytime. The drive indeed was spectacular. If not the best, it definitely was one of the best. 

Lake Yellowstone which is a part of the yellowstone caldera is one of the first features one meets when entering through the east gate. 

Map of the main geyser basins in Yellowstone National Park. It doesn't include the Norris basin in the north west, which I could not visit during this trip.

West Thumb Geyser Basin with a glimpse of the yellowstone lake. 

The Old faithful is one of the tallest geysers in the world erupting upto a height of about 185 ft. In fact, I had the notion that it is the tallest till I learnt at the park that steamboat geyser in the Norris basin is the tallest shooting upto a height of about 390 ft, though extremely irregular and unpredictable thus, conferring the more frequent and predictable Old faithful the position of being the most popular. The last major eruptions of steamboat were witnessed in 2013 and 2014.  List of the tallest geysers in the world.

Quite by accident we met a Bullsnake in the upper geyser basin. We were told this snake is aggressive but non-venomous and is the largest snake species of North America. It has a unique skin pattern and easily identifiable. Black/brown/yellowish stripes on top and three layers of black/brown spots on both sides. Usually, these snakes are 4-6 ft long. This one was almost 5 ft long.

We met herds of bisons and elks in lamar valley. This particular bison was the largest of the lot.

Opal pool

Grand Primatic Spring

Sapphire Pool, Excelsior pool, Turquoise pool (left to right, above) and Opal pool are some of the most exotic pools of middle geyser basin. The exquisite colors of these hot spring pools are due to the varied layers of microbial mats in these basins, the varied depths and the varied levels of temperature. The spectral reflection depends on the optical absorption by the mats and scattering by the water and the incident solar and diffuse skylight conditions (as explained by a study conducted by Montana State University). One of the most dramatic play of colors is seen in the largest hot spring in the park, the Grand prismatic spring.  It is one of the popular hotspots of the park.

Shell Geyser

Jewel Geyser

The Excelsior geyser was the second tallest geyser in the world spouting up to a height of 300 ft. but after its major eruption in 1890, it has not spouted very high. Many of the tall but unpredictable geysers are located in the western Norris basin, (which I couldn't visit during this visit), lower basin and the upper basin.

There are a collection of smaller geysers like shell and jewel in the biscuit basin, which is one of the most volatile and unpredictable basins in the park. It's been so named because of the biscuit like deposits around the geysers.

Paint pots

Firehole water falls

The lower geyser basin is the largest basin in the park and has some popular attractions like the Great fountain geyser which can unpredictably shoot up to 230 ft . We missed the geyser eruption but it is a predictable geyser and spouts over 200 ft. There are many mud pools, paint pots and hot springs in this basin as well. Further west from this basin is the Fire hole water falls.

Firehole river along the midway geyser basin

The Angel 'travertine' terrace of the Mammoth hotsprings. 

A beautiful sunset on our way back through South Dakota

Three seasons in Yellowstone National Park - Winter - North gate >> Part 1

Three seasons in Yellowstone National Park - Fall - South gate >> Part 3