Plitvice National Park And Its Legends

 

A: Veliki Slap Waterfall (The highest waterfall in Croatia at 78 m)  B: Korana River C: Sastavci Waterfall D: Novakovica Lake

The Legend of the Black Queen

Legend has it, the Plitvice Lakes were magically created by the Black Queen of Croatia. The Black Queen was a cruel, mean-spirited ruler, who reigned over the region a long long time ago during the dark ages. During those times, this region was fed by the Black River, and the forest surrounding it was called the Devil's Garden (Vražji vrt), inhabited by magical creatures. As the dark ages grew darker, a long, deadly drought dried up the river and brought the people to the feet of the Queen begging for water and life. For once, the Queen gave up her mean spirit, showed mercy, and magically created a large Lake, promising that it will never dry.  The Lake was named Proscansko after the Croatian word Prositi which means "beg for".

How were the Plitvice Lakes and Waterfalls formed?

Schengen Visa:

As of January 2023, Croatia is an official member of the Schengen Countries and a Schengen Visa is required for entry to this country. We traveled to Croatia from Italy. More precisely, we were visiting Venice when we decided to head for the lakes in Plitvice, Croatia. We traveled to Italy from India on a multiple-entry Schengen tourist visa. Getting a Schengen Visa was not very difficult. It can be applied through VFS in Delhi. The VFS office is located at the Shivaji Stadium metro station. It took about a week between applying for the visa and receiving it. 

Mode of travel:

While there are multiple modes of travel to Croatia from Venice, we opted for the Bus. The bus ticket was booked online through Flix bus. We faced no issues getting the tickets, boarding, and traveling. The route was via Ljubljana, Slovenia. It took us about 5 hours to reach Zagreb.

The other options to travel to Croatia from Venice are, train, air, and ferry. While air travel is the quickest, it's the most expensive as well. Rail and waterway were long overnight journeys, hence we chose the bus.

Day 1: 

We were in Zagreb for a day. Our short stay was made deliciously memorable with freshly baked yummy pastries and a music festival, which we luckily got a chance to attend at the Zagreb square.

Day 2:

On day 2 early morning, we took another Flix Bus from Zagreb to Slunj. It took about 2 hours to reach Slunj. Zagreb has a good network of tram services and we didn't have any problem traveling around the city. Small tobacco stores near the tram stop/stations sell the tickets. When we traveled to Croatia in 2019, they were still using the Kuna as their currency. So, we exchanged some Euros at the bus station on our arrival the previous day. In January 2023, Croatia adopted the Euro as its official currency making life easier. 

Slunj is a small quiet quaint little town or maybe a village. I regret not planning a longer stay here. We booked a bread and breakfast here with a lovely river view room and lawn. I could have spent weeks here amidst nature's quiet beauty. Will share details of Slunj in another post.

 

Day 3:

On day 3 we booked a Flix bus to Plitvice Lakes. We waited at the bus stop at the said time, but the bus passed by without stopping to pick us up. We tried to enquire about the next bus or any other transportation options to the park but language proved a barrier since the locals were not well-versed in English. Most tourists travel to the park in rented cars or their own vehicles. After wasting almost 3 hours, we met a lady who understood English and helped us get another bus to the park. Our initial plan was to start early to avoid the afternoon sun. It was one of the warmest summers in Europe that year. Unfortunately, we started post 12:00 pm.

We finally arrived at the Lakes at 1:00 pm. The bus dropped us at the Ticket Office at entrance 1. They mentioned that the last bus left around 6:00 pm and if missed that, it might be a very long wait till late at night before we can get another bus. All restaurants closed around the time the park closed. There were very limited places of accommodation. This meant we had to ensure, we were back at the bus stop much before 6:00 pm since the buses here didn't quite follow the correct timings.

Entry Timings:

Summer timings (June and August) : 

7:00 am to 8:00 pm 

Last entry at 6:00 pm

Autumn/Fall (September and October) :

7:00 / 8:00 am to 6:00 / 7:00 pm 

Last entry at 4:00 / 5:00 pm

Winter timings  (November to March) :

8:00 am to 4:00 pm

Last entry at 2:00 pm

Spring timings (April and May) :

8:00 am -7:00 pm

Last entry at 5:00 pm

Ticket Prices are shared on the official website. Prices vary by season, entry timings, and age.

We entered the park around 1:00 pm and were out by 5:00 pm. We didn't want to risk missing the bus back but as a result, we skipped a few viewpoints and shorter treks. 

My suggestion is to pre-book the hotel at the park which is right across from the entrance 2 ticket office. It is a bit pricey and gets booked pretty fast in the peak summer season. Plan ahead and save the stress of missing buses. There are a few local taxis, at entrance 2, but they charge exorbitant rates.

The Lakes and the Waterfalls:

Must say the lakes, the waterfalls, and the park was gorgeous. All the trouble to get here was definitely worth it. 

There are about 8 trails that the visitors can take depending on how much they choose to see in a day. Details are available on the official park website. Since we planned a day trip and had wasted half a day thanks to the bus that ditched us, we opted for the C program with a slight change. Instead of going back to the starting point, we cut our hike short at ST2 and returned via entrance 2. We had to forgo some good views between St2 and Entrance 1. However, we managed to cover the entire park and took the boat ride on Lake Kozjak

I assume, starting the trek at entrance 2 is a wee bit better than entrance 1. Entrance 1 is close to the lower lakes and it's a climb all the way up to the highest lake, Proscansko. While from Entrance 2, it's a short climb to Proscansko and then a climb down to the lower lakes. 

Source of map: Official website https://np-plitvicka-jezera.hr/en/plan-your-visit/istrazite-jezera/activities/lake-tour-programmes/

The highest lake is at 637 m above sea level and the lowest lake is at 503 m above sea level 

Climbing up towards Lake Kaluderovac. The boardwalks are comfortable and safe. We went during peak summer when the boards were dry. They might get slippery during wet seasons.

Lake Kaluderovac at 505 m above sea level. The turquoise waters are clean and one can see the fishes and plants under water.

Lake Gavanovac at 514 m above sea level. Swimming is prohibited in the lakes. Water from the rivers and the lakes at the park is supplied as drinking water to the municipalities of Rakovica and Plitvicka

The Legend of the Gavanovo treasure

Local legends suggest,  at the bottom of Lake Gavanovac lies the hidden treasure trove of a magician named Gavan, after whom the lake gets its name. Gavan, the wizard had a treasure box of fairies and spirits with magical powers. Gavan was a kind and honest person and used this power for the welfare of his people but one day the Black Queen, heard about his treasure and sent her men to capture him. Fearing, the queen will misuse the powers, Gavan gave the box to his faithful servant Juraj and asked him to hide it in the deep forest. While escaping the Queen's men, Juraj fell into the lake releasing the fairies and the spirits. The fairies saved him, Gavan, and they kept the lake protected from the reach of the Black Queen. It is said the box still lies in the bottom of the lake and the fairies are heard singing in the stillness of the starry nights at the lakes.

Milanovacki slap Waterfall and Lake Milanovac at 524 m above sea level

Slapovi Milke Trnine Waterfall was named after Katarina Milka Ternina a famous Croatian Soprano (1863-1941)

Lake Kozjak at 535 m above sea level. It is also the deepest (47 m) and the largest (81.5 ha) lake in the national park. We took a boat from P1 boat point to P3 boat point. There is a rest area and a gift shop with ice cream and snacks near P1.

Veliki Pstavac Waterfall seen from Lake Burgeti at 545 m above sea level

Gradinsko Lake at 554 m above sea level 

Veliki Prstavac Waterfall (28 m high)

Milino Jezero Lake at 576 m above sea level

Galovacki Buk Waterfall and Galovac Lakr at 585 m above sea level

Bird's Eye view Picture clicked in 1937 Source: Link There are 6 small lakes between Proscansko and Galovac lakes at different heights. Vir at 500 m asl, Malo at 605 m asl, Veliko at 607 m asl, Baltinovac at 610 m asl, Okrugljak at 613 m asl and Ciganovac at 625 m asl

Proscansko Jezero at 627 m above sea level the highest lake. 

 

We took the shuttle back to entrance 2 from ST3 shuttle point near Proscansko. We were short on time, hence, chose to cut short a part of the trail between ST2 and Entrance 1. Perhaps will plan a visit in winter or fall. I heard the colors are grander in fall and the frozen lakes in winter are a surreal experience.

Vatican City - The Smallest Country In The World

Vatican City is the smallest Country in the World which covers an area of 0.44 Sq km and has a population of 800 - 1000 people (2020 and 2022 data from the web). It is the only country in the world that has the status of UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is the only country in the world that has no citizenship by birth. In fact, this country has no hospitals and no one can be born here. Not sure what happens if someone does give birth to a child there. So far it has a zero birth rate. Citizenship to this country is granted on the basis of 'Jus Officii'. It means someone working there with an official status can be granted citizenship for the tenure of the job. The citizenship is revoked once the job status is terminated. 

The country is located within the municipal boundaries of the City of Rome, the capital of Italy. Vatican City became an independent state in 1929 after the Lateran Treaty was signed between Italy and the Holy See, prior to which it was under the domain of Italy. An interesting fact is Italian government allows Italians to donate 8% of their taxes to Vatican City. The country gets its name from the Vatican Hills, on which it is located, on the western bank of the River Tiber.

Vatican City is the home of the largest Church in the world, St. Peter's Basilica. Built in the Renaissance style it was designed by some of the best artists and architects of the Renaissance period - Bramante, Michelangelo, Maderno, Bernini. Porta, Fontana to name a few. The Church was built in place of the old St Peter's Basilica constructed by Emperor Constantine over the burial shrine of Saint Peter one of the 12 disciples of Jesus who played a prominent role in founding the Christian Church. While Pope Nicholas V began the renovation works on the old basilica, Pope Julius II laid the foundation of the work for the new Basilica.

Vatican by the night

I traveled to the Vatican once in 2007 and once in 2019. Reaching the Vatican is pretty easy since it is located in Rome. Rome is one of the best-connected cities in the world. While there is no entry tickets to the Basilica, there is entry ticket for the Sistine Chapel and the Museums. The tickets can be purchased online at the Vatican City official website. The online ticket price is around 22 euros. They are available at a reduced cost if purchased in person at the entry. However, the basilica is usually crowded, with more than 25000 tourists visiting it every day and entry to the basilica itself takes almost 2 hours or more unless you are very lucky. We had a long wait and I did not get a chance to visit the museums or the gardens, since we had no time after the long wait in the queue. The basilica opens at 7 a.m. and closes at 7 p.m. (April - September) / 6 p.m. (October - March).

St Peter's Square

The most famous sculpture of St. Peter's Basilica is the 'La Madonna Della Pieta' (our lady of piety). This Carrara marble (quarried from Carrara, Tuscany), sculpture sculpted by Michelangelo gives a tangible form to the sorrow of the Madonna who is shown holding the body of his dead son. The sculpture is protected behind a glass case after an attack in 1972, by a Hungarian tourist who threw a hammer at the sculpture thus damaging the face and arm of the Madonna. 

Michelangelo's Pieta

The basilica is one of the most exquisitely designed churches of the Renaissance period. The grand nave is breathtakingly beautiful. The ornated carvings and inscriptions are mesmerizing. The Latin inscription seen around the base of the dome reads:  "...You are Peter, and on this rock I will build my church. I will give you the keys of the kingdom of heaven...."

Another inscription above the Statue of St Peter reads: "...Whatsoever thou shalt bind on earth shall be bound also in Heaven and whatsoever thou shalt loose on earth shall be loosed also in Heaven...."

The nave of St. Peter's Basilica

A Two Week Vacation To Switzerland And Italy

We flew KLM from Minneapolis, USA to Zurich, Switzerland. When we took the trip, Switzerland was not a part of the Schengen Area and we had to take a separate visa for it. Anyway, that's not the case now and life is a lot easier with a Schengen visa applicable in more countries. Our first stop was Zurich as is obvious. The best part of traveling in Europe is easy access to public transportation. We took a train from Zurich airport to Zurich city center.

We stayed in Zurich city center. We had plans to take the evening train to Interlaken which was our main destination in Switzerland.

Day 1

On day 1 we toured around Zurich City. The main attractions of Zurich are in the old town and city center. All places of interest are within walking distance. The top of Zurich Point at Uetliberg can be reached by train from Zurich HB. One can see a panoramic view of the City from the mountaintop.

The main places of interest in Zurich include:

1. Old town to relive the historical Zurich

2. Uetliberg, top of Zurich point to see the view of Zurich City

3. Grossmunster Cathedral, the largest cathedral in Zurich

4. Fraumunster Church, rebuilt on the remains of an old abbey for aristocratic women

5. Sechselautenplatz, the largest town square of Zurich

6. Zurich lake

7. Limmat River

8. Bahnhofstrasse, the exclusive shoppers street in downtown Zurich

9. Polyterrasse ETH, provides beautiful views of the city from its panorama terrace

Places of interest in Zurich

Grossmunster - The largest cathedral in Zurich

Fraumunster Abbey

Day 2

Early, the next day we took a train from Zurich HB to Interlaken. Interlaken as the name suggests is a resort town located between two lakes, Lake Thun and Lake Brienz. It took about 3 hours to reach Interlaken. The route was stunning. Traveling in Europe should be by train or by car. The scenic views throughout the journey are absolutely breathtaking. We spent the day exploring the town. It was my friend's birthday, so we had a Swiss fondue party as well. 

Tourists can enjoy hiking, paragliding, white water rafting, boating, and various other outdoor activities in this traditional Swiss town. Harder Klum is a popular hiking destination from where panoramic views of Interlaken can be seen.

On the way to Interlaken

Day 3

On the third day, we took the Jungfrau railway ride to Jungfraujoch, the highest accessible point in Europe. This rail route is the highest in Switzerland. Jungfraujoch is located at the base of the Aletsch Glacier, the largest glacier in the Alps. Jungfraujoch has an ice museum and one can enjoy snow activities at the glacier base. I was actually amazed to find a Tamil Udupi restaurant there :) Perhaps the highest Udupi restaurant :)) Not sure if it still exists.

On the way to the Alps

Railway tunnels on the Jungfrau railway line, the highest railway in Switzerland

Aletsch glacier, the largest glacier in the Alps can be reached through the Jungfrau railway

Aletsch Glacier

Playing in the snow on the highest accessible point of Europe, Jungfraujoch,  at 3454 m above sea level

Day 4

On the fourth day, we took boat rides on the Interlaken lakes. We spent a day at the beautiful lake town of Brienz.

Boat ride on Lake Brienz

Day 5

On the fifth day, we took a train ride to Lucerne. Lucerne is a historic town in Switzerland and has a medieval charm to it. There is a lot to see in Lucerne and one can easily spend a week there. But we had a short vacation and a lot to cover. We planned only a day and a half in Lucerne. 

Those planning a long stay in Lucerne can visit Mount Pilatus and Mount Rigg. Both places can be reached by train

Places of interest in Lucerne

We skipped the mountain trips and focussed on the main attractions within the City. These included:

1. Chapel Bridge - This wooden covered bridge is an absolute must if visiting Lucerne. I don't think anyone would really miss it. There are beautiful paintings all along the gable roofs of the bridge. The bridge is adorned with colorful flowers on the side.

2. A part of the chapel bridge is the water tower, a must-visit too.

3. Speuer Bridge - It's similar to the Chapel Bridge but not as decorated with flowers and the paintings are of a different theme.

4. The old town of Lucerne on either side of River Ruess is gorgeous. There are many interesting buildings, each unique and artistic.

5. The Needle weir or needle dam on the River Reuss - It is a unique engineering marvel that uses wooden needles to control the flow of water

6. The Lion Monument - Designed by Bertel Thorvaldsen, this monumental relief commemorates the Swiss guards who lost their lives during the French Revolution

7. The Glacier Garden - The Glacier Garden preserves ancient kettle basins and fossils dating back to the last ice age 20,000 years ago. 

8. Lake Lucerne - A boat ride on Lake Lucerne will take you on a beautiful journey along the beautiful city

9. The Swiss Museum of Transport - This is an interactive museum displaying a wide variety of transportation-related items

10. Lucerne Promenade - It is a Lakeshore walk

11. The Museggmauer and its 9 towers - It is an 870 m long rampart built in the 14th century to protect the city of Lucerne. A walk along the wall provides beautiful views of the old city. It is the longest, preserved wall in Switzerland

12. The Zytturm - It is a 13th-century astronomical clock tower.

13. Jesuit Church - It is the first and largest Baroque-style Church of Switzerland

14. Fanziskanerplatz - It is one of the old town squares of Luzerne

15. Franciscan Church - It is a medieval gothic-style church

16. Weinmrkt - It is an old town square which was once a fish market

17. St. Leodgarstsrasse - It is a Roman Catholic Church

18. Bourbaki Panorama - It is a long panoramic painting in a museum

Paintings on the gable roof of Chapel Bridge (Kapellbrucke)

Needle Weir on River Reuss at Lucerne Lake

Day 6

On day 6 we headed for Milan, Italy. We took the train again through a scenic mountain route. We reached Milan in the late afternoon. We didn't do much that day. We just relaxed and explored the area around Milan Centrale. We stayed close by since most of Milan's main attractions can be accessed by train.

Train to Milan, Italy

Day 7

On the seventh day, we explored Milan. One day is not enough to see even the main attractions of Milan. I did return to the City again but still have lots to see. I could not manage the tickets for the Last Supper even in two visits. These need to be booked way ahead, at least 4 months ahead.

The first place we visited was the Duomo. It took us about 30 minutes to get there. The square is bustling with tourists, musicians, and artists. An Italian musician was having an open-air show when we reached there. Should say we were lucky to experience that kind of musical in front of the Duomo. The tickets for entry into the Duomo are in the building on its right. Usually, there are long queues but that day we got lucky, maybe because of the music show, the queue for Duomo tickets was not very long. We spent about an hour or two at the Duomo. Then headed for some shopping. The Plaza on the left has the shopping arcades; all designer stores and brand stores are there. There are many restaurants as well.

Duomo, Milan

Places of interest in Milan

The main places of interest in Milan include:

1. Duomo and the shopping plazas around it. There are many art galleries and museums also if one has the time. Once you get to the Duomo, all places of interest are about 10-15 minutes away by train

2. Santa Maria Delle Grazie has the famous Vinci painting 'The Last Supper'. We did not get tickets twice. I was told it's advisable to book the tickets way ahead or they get sold out. If interested in the painting get the ticket as soon as you start planning for the trip. 

3. Naviglo is a must for a canal-side dinner. I loved the ambiance.

4. Saint Ambrogio

6. Castello Sforzesco 

7. Parco Sempione

8. Triennale Museum

9. Saint Eustorgio

10. Pirelli Hangar Biccoca - This is an art museum of a different kind located on the far north of Milan Centrale, on the opposite side of the main attractions. Takes about 30 minutes by train

11. The monumental tomb is another place that can be visited if there is time. It is away from the other main attractions but for those who like art and architecture, this is a heaven of artistic tombs.

If in Milan for a longer time, one can do day trips to the many lakes around Milan, the most popular being Como and Garda.

Day 8

On the eighth day, we took the train to Venice. We reached late in the afternoon. It was raining heavily and we visited St. Marks Square in the rain. Our hotel was in the city center, hence within walking distance from all places of interest. Listing places of interest in Venice would get too long. I think one can start with St. Mark's Square and a gondola ride. Every monument, museum, and art gallery is worth visiting if there is time. Motor Boats and water buses are available all along the canals and Gondolas are available near ST. Marks Square Basin. But yes they are a bit steep in price.

Places of interest in Venice

Day 9

On day 9 we took a gondola ride through the canals of Venice and checked out the many monuments along the canals. It was raining most of the time with few sunny breaks in between. Venice happens to be one of my favorite places for reasons quite unknown. I mean, I do justify it with words sometimes but there is a weird untold connection with the place. Not sure what. Here's my experience during my first visit to the city and the story I imagined of a conversation I had with someone a very long time ago about Venice. Link: La Citta D'amore - Venezia 

Grand Canal, Venice

Day 10

On the tenth day, we took the train to Pisa. Soon after we reached, we kept our luggage in the hotel and headed for the Leaning Tower of Pisa. It was cloudy in Pisa as well but we managed to see the church and tower without getting drenched. We stayed close to the station and the tower was about 15 minutes by train.

Leaning Tower of Pisa

Day 11

From Pisa, we went to Florence. We stayed in Florence for almost 2 days. We toured the entire Florence on foot. I am surprised that I actually managed to do it. Florence has so much to see, two days are too less. In fact, we spent many hours in queues for tickets. We stood in queue for 2 hours to get the ticket for David at Accademia Gallery while its large replica was displayed at Piazza della Signoria which we saw for free :P Of course the original is original!

The first thing we did was take a train to the Accademia Gallery where Michaelangelo's David is displayed. Thankfully we started early because it was past noon by the time we actually got the tickets and saw the statue. Best to buy tickets online if available. From there we walked south and we kept walking and walking and explored whatever came our way, churches, bridges, markets, and gardens. We actually, walked all the way to Baboli Gardens, and then finally to Piazzale Michaelangelo. From there we took a hop on hop off bus for remaining sightseeing - Most of which we saw from the bus since our feet had given up and it was almost late evening.

Places of interest in Florence

View of Florence City and the Cathedral of Santa Maria Del Fiore from Piazzale

The Arno River

Day 12

Late on twelfth day, we took the train to Rome. We stayed very close to Rome Station. It was the white night season and Rome was crowded. The entire City of Rome is like a museum. Every road and every corner has a monument, garden, or museum worth seeing. Listing out the attractions in Rome will put a dot in every part of Rome. If I have to broadly give a short list, the must-see should include but not be limited to:

1. The Colosseum - Without a doubt it's the first on the list

2. The Pantheon - We were at the Pantheon in the late evening. There are small restaurants right in front of it. So we had dinner by the Pantheon while watching a street artist perform a mime show. It was such a great evening :) There are also Pinnochio shops near the Pantheon. That was the best souvenir I bought from Rome

3. The Trevi Fountain - I threw one coin the first time. The second time I threw none. This time I want to throw two :)) So the legend has it, if you throw one coin in the fountain, you will return to Rome. If you throw two, you will find true love. If you throw three, you will tie the knot with your true love. Maybe I should have thrown the two last time I was there. Oh! what a miss:))

4. The Spanish Steps

5. Catacombs (there are many but one can choose one most accessible) The St.Callixtus Catacombs are the largest and if one has to pick one!

6. Bocca della Verita (that's just me thanks to Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn)

7. All churches are beautiful, so probably you can pick the ones that come your way or are close to where you are staying or close to the other places of interest you are visiting. Every turn, every road has a beautiful church!

Places of interest in Rome

The mime show in front of the Pantheon

Day 13

On day 13 we took a hop on hop off tour bus at Roma Termini and explored the City of Rome. The first stop was the Colosseum. We did not pre-book entry tickets nor did we hire a guide, so we had to stand in queue for almost an hour or more. Even after buying the ticket, we were in a queue for another 30/40 minutes before we got a chance to enter. So, half a day was spent in Colosseum only. I have been to Rome more than once, and I plan to visit again because I have yet to see the Roman catacombs and the Bocca Della Verita, thanks to Roman Holiday, it has been on my bucket list forever!

The remains of the Arena and Hypogeum at the Roman Colosseum

Day 14

On the last day of our stay, we went to the Vatican. There was the longest queue for entry tickets and a longer queue for entry. I was wearing a sleeveless top, so was asked to get a stole or I wouldn't be allowed entry, so I had to head back to a shop to buy a stole. There went another hour. Anyway, we wanted to see the Vatican only, so we took our time. We were back by evening. Details of Vatican City Link: 

Dome of St. Peter's Cathedral, Vatican City

Our flight back was at 5:00 a.m. the following morning. So after dinner, we decided to join the white night crowd at midnight. Unfortunately, we got robbed that night. Not the best thing to happen on the last day. We made rounds to the police station at 1:00 am in the night to report but well there was no hope of recovery. With a sad heart, we left for the airport around 2:00 a.m. I will share the story in a different post.