10 Days Trip To Odisha (Orissa)

We started our trip from Asansol, West Bengal. We were kids in school back then and every summer holiday my parents planned a road trip. That year in 1993, we decided to go to Odisha. On the way, we stopped by the famous terracotta temples of Bankura and Bishnupur in West Bengal. It took us about 2 hours to drive from Asansol to Bankura. 

Terracotta temples as the name suggests are baked clay structures. 

Source of base map: https://nbsslup.icar.gov.in/wp-content/uploads/2021/Publications/District_Reports/Bankura.pdf

The Bishnupur area is rich in red laterite soil with a clayey texture. The terracotta temple architecture evolved in Bengal around the 15th - 16th century under the patronage of the Malla rulers (interesting history of the Mallas) during the revival of the Vaisnavism / Krishna bhakti movement. The temples were built in different styles. Bengal temple architecture follows 8 distinct styles: 

1. Chala (roof in Bangla): Curved roof style. The Chala style has different forms as well.

a. Dochala - two roofs

b. Char Chala - four roofs

c. Aath Chala - eight roofs

d. Baro Chala - twelve roofs

e. Jorbangla - Twin roofs

f. Ratnasaho jorbangla - Twin roofs with tower

2. Ratna (jewel/crown in Bangla): This style has domical pinnacles. The different forms of this style include:

a. Ek Ratna - one pinnacle

b. Panch Ratna - 5 pinnacles

c Nabo Ratna - 9 pinnacles

d. Ekadash Ratna - 11 pinnacles

e. Trayodosh Ratna - 13 pinnacles

f. Saptodash Ratna - Seventeen pinnacles

g. Ekush Ratna - Twenty one pinnacles

h. Panchish Ratna - Twenty five pinnacles

3. Dalan (Courtyard in Bangla): This style has a courtyard/s in the temples 

4. Mancha (stage/ podium in Bangla): These temples were built in a gallery or podium style with a high-raised platform.

5. Matha (monastery in Bangla): The Matha temples were built on big complexes with various sections.

6. Mishro Riti (fusion): As the name suggests its a fusion of different styles

7. Nijoshyo Riti (Unique): Unique styles are not in line with any of the standard styles.

Different Styles of Bengal Temple Architecture Source: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Classification_of_Bengal_Temple_Architecture_12.jpg

Radha Lalji Temple - Ekratna style - Single pinnacle temple architecture

Ras Mancha Temple - Mancha style temple architecture It is one of the first art galleries in India. This Temple is built in brick, laterite stone, and terracotta art work.

Jorbangla Temple - Chala with Ratna style temple architecture

We stayed in Bankura for two days. From Bankura we headed to Chandipur. The Defence Research and Development Organisation (DRDO) Integrated Test Range (ITR) is located in Chandipur. Most missile launches in India are done from Chandipur ITR. Chandipur is also famous for its vanishing beach. 

The vanishing beach of Chandipur is a unique occurrence due to high and ebb tides. It occurs every day a couple of times as per the moon cycle. During low ebb tide, the seawater recedes more than 5 km and is back during high tide. The beach is famous for horseshoe crabs as well. Horseshoe crabs are found in very few places Chandipur being the only one in India. These crabs are actually of the spider family and are not related to the crab family at all. They are a very important part of the coastal ecology. Their eggs are the main food source of coastal migratory birds.

From Chandipur we went to Cuttack. We stayed there overnight. The next day we headed for Bhubaneshwar. This temple city is the capital of Odisha State. This City is home to more than 700 temples. Most of these temples were built between the 8th-12th century and were influenced by Shaivism  The architectural style prevalent in Odisha is the Kalinga Nagara Style. This style comprises of two distinct parts a curvilinear or flat tower called deul in Odiya and a walled hall called the Jagmohan in Odiya. The Kalinga Nagara style has three forms based on the type of the deul.

1. Rekha deul - In this style, the tower is tall and curvilinear with  a pinnacle on top made of two parts called amalaka and kalasha.

2. Pidha deul - In this style the tower is not very tall and has a flatter stepped pyramidical pinnacle comprised of a ghanta and pidha.

3. Khakhara deul - Khakharu means gourd in Odiya and in this unique style the low tower pinnacle is elongated barrel-like or horizontally halved inverted gourd 

The famous Lingaraj Temple - The rightmost tall tower is an example of rekha deul and the shorter pyramid like structure next to the rekha deul is an example of pidha deul.

Aerial view of Lingaraj temple

The Vaithala temple is an example of Khakhara deul style

Other than the Shiva temples, Bhubaneshwar has many temples and monuments built by Jains and Buddhists. Khandagiri and Udaigiri are famous Jain caves. There are a total of 33 caves that were used as abodes for Jain monks. There is also a Buddhist shanti stupa on Dhauligiri mountain. The foundation of this pagoda was laid by the Great Emperor Ashok at the end of the Kalinga war. 

Aerial view of Khandagiri (left) and Udaigiri (right)

Picture source: https://www.toursorissa.com/monuments-in-odisha/udayagiri-khandagiri-caves-bhubaneswar/

Bhubaneshwar also has a large zoological park called Nandankanan which is home to white tigers and lions among other animals. We stayed in Bhubaneshwar for two days and then drove down to Puri.

Puri is a coastal city. It's famous for the holy Jagannath temple and the coastal beaches. Puri is considered one of the four holiest pilgrimage destinations or Dhamas in India. Staunch Hindus believe that visiting the four dhamas in one's life will help achieve moksha/nirvana. The four Dhamas represent the four great epochs noted in early Hindu texts. These epochs were defined by the way dharama changed over the years. According to Hindu texts, Dharma (duty) of a human being is comprised of four elements - a. Satya (truth), b. Gyan (knowledge) c. Niti (morality) and d. Daan (sacrifice). The satyug marked the age where humans embodied all four elements of dharma. Satyug was followed by treta yug where satya was no more a distinct part of dharma because humans learned to lie. Treta yug was followed by Dwapar yug which saw the end of gyan because humans started becoming ignorant. Finally came the Kaliyug when dharma was left only with Daan because humans let go of morality as well. Dhama of Satyug (the age of truth which lasted for four thousand years) is Badrinath, Uttarakhand. Dhama of Tretayug (which symbolizes the three legs or triads of morality and lasted for three thousand years) is in Rameshwaram, Tamil Nadu. Dhama of Dwaparyug (The age of the two which lasted for two thousand years) is in Dwarka, Gujarat. The fourth dhama of Kaliyug (The age of darkness which lasted for one thousand years) is Puri, Odisha.

Pic source: From the web https://velivada.com/2017/07/11/quislings-jagannath-temple-puri/ (since my old photos file got corrupted)

The Jagannath temple is considered one of the holiest temples in India and is dedicated to Lord Jagannath another form of Lord Krishna (incarnation of Lord Vishnu), his sister, Subhadra, and his brother, Balbhadra. This temple was built in the 12th century by King Anata Varman Chodaganga  Deva. This temple is also built in the Kalinga Nagara style.

We stayed in Puri for 5 days of which one day we visited Konark and one day we visited the Chilika lake.

Konark is famous for the Konark Sun temple. As the name suggests this temple is dedicated to Sun God and is built in the form of a chariot with 24 wheels led by 6 horses. This temple is an example of the Pidha deula form of Kalinga Nagara Tstyle architecture. This temple was built in the 13th Century by King Narasimhadeva 1.

Aerial view of Konark Sun Temple

Picture source: Web (https://zeenews.india.com/india/konark-sun-temple-purana-quila-among-100-asi-sites-to-be-lit-up-bear-g20-logo-as-india-assumes-its-presidency-2542188.html)

The Chilika lake is considered the largest saltwater lagoon lake in Asia. It is most famous for the Irrawady Dolphins, migratory birds including flamingos, and many varieties of fishes. Chilika prawns and lobsters are very famous. It is UNESCO heritage site because of its biodiversity and is home to many rare, endangered, and threatened species of birds and aquatic animals, and fishes like the green sea turtles, Irrawaddy dolphins, and limbless skinks among many others.

Photo source: The Web (https://www.ndtv.com/offbeat/navin-patnaik-shares-mesmerising-photos-of-chilika-lake-in-odisha-3458916)

From Puri, we headed back to Asansol with a stopover midway.

For A Budget Trip To Malaysia: Part 2 - Borneo

After 6 days in the Malaysian Peninsula which included Kuala Lumpur, Penang, Langkawi, Kuala Terengganu, and Melaka in Rs. 18.5K / $268 (excluding food) we proceeded for our Borneo adventure. (For Part 1)

Day 7

On day 7, our flight to Kuching departed at 7 a.m. from KLIA2 (Kuala Lumpur International Airport Terminal 2). It was a cheap flight deal by Air Asia for 89 RM. Always a good idea to plan trips around cheap flight deals since the major expense of a trip is the airfare. Interestingly, at Kuching airport, we had to go through immigration again and our passports were stamped again, though Sarawak is a part of Malaysia. Not sure why!

Kuching

At the airport exit, there was a visitor information booth, which provided us with the required information about Kuching and the places of interest. Next, as directed by the guy at the information desk, we took a prepaid taxi to Kuching city center. The fare was 26 RM. We headed directly to a hostel selected from online TripAdvisor recommendations. The hostel was in Chinatown in the city center - 'Three house bed and breakfast'. I loved it from its very first 'red' look. Would definitely recommend it. 1 dorm bed is 20 RM, a 2-bed room is 60 RM, and a double-bed room is 70 RM. We opted for the dormitory since it was available. The hostel was neat, and clean, with a kitchen where one can cook, a reading room with interesting books, a TV, CD player, and movies, a laundry section, clean bathrooms, and very friendly staff and owner. We also had good company in our dorm of 6, a Chinese student, a French airline employee, and a Russian globetrotter. One of the best things about traveling is meeting many new people sharing a common space and exchanging notes from across the world.

Three House Bed and Breakfast

For the first day in Kuching, we decided to just relax and explore on foot. We went around the local markets, small streets, riverfront, Chinatown, Indian Street, and local places of interest. It drizzled now and then but not enough to get wet. Hanging out at the riverfront was the best part. I even dozed off sitting on the bench as the soft breeze lured me to la la land.  In the evening we savored yummy Sarawak laksa at a pretty bistro.

Bistro and Sarawak Laksa

Total expenditure excluding food: 135 RM / Rs 2160

Day 8

The next day we woke up early, had a hearty breakfast of bread and jam (complimentary at the hostel), and rushed to catch the 7 a.m. bus (#K6) to Semenggoh Orangutan Rehabilitation Center from the bus station near Jalan Masjid, which was at a walking distance from the hostel. Yet, unfortunately, we missed the morning bus and had to take the next one in the afternoon. There are only two buses to Semenggoh but it is highly recommended to take the morning one precisely because, if you miss an orangutan sighting in the morning session, you might get fortunate in the afternoon one. The last bus back was scheduled at 4 pm and we were warned that failing to get on that one would mean paying a fortune for a cab. TRAVEL TIP: Keep a cab number handy and also the number of the hotel staying at, just in case one gets lost or stranded. It's always useful.

Semengohh Rehabilitation Center

The to-and-fro bus fare to Semenggoh was around 6 RM.  We extended our stay at the hostel since it was quite comfortable and beds were available in the dorm (our accommodation expense for the day therefore was 20 RM). The entry fee for foreign nationals at Semenggoh was 20 RM. We were told, 'It's advisable to let the bus driver know that you intend to return by the 4 pm bus. He will make a note to pick you up.' Our tight pockets ensured that we heeded those wise words.

There's really very little to do at the Rehab center if you are pressed for time. A very short stretch is open to visitors and the only option for Orangutan sighting is during their feeding time. Unfortunately, November is the fruiting season in Borneo and most Orangutans do not turn up at the feeding point. The forest ranger mentioned that three baby Orangs had come down to the feeding point in the morning. Ahh!! Not again :((( (My luck is pretty bad for sighting animals :( ) but well that said, with high hopes we waited. At 3 pm the ranger asked everyone to follow him through a trail to the feeding point. One of the feeders hollered in almost Orang tongue (perhaps) to invite them for lunch. We were asked to wait in absolute silence after being instructed to not tease or feed an orang if it appears anywhere close, cause they might get agitated and aggressive and then whatever may follow may not be very pleasant. Hmm! We waited till 3:30 but none turned up. We took the chance and waited another 15 minutes before heading back with a heavy heart :( and a very anxious heart (we were about to miss the bus!)

At least the Orangutan Statue

Way back, the bus dropped us in front of a Gurudwara. Excited we entered the Sikh temple and met local Indians. Like a Chinatown in every prominent city in the world, there is also an India Street in every part of the world.

TIP: Without fail, take the first bus to Semeggoh in the morning. Find out the bus timings from the ticket counter near Jalan Masjid the day before. This will give a better chance for Orangutan sighting.

Total expenditure excluding food: 46 RM / Rs. 736

Day 9

On day 9, we had to shift to a 2-bed room since the dorms were pre-booked for the day. Hence, our room tariff for the day was 30 RM. We rose earlier the next day since we couldn't afford to miss the 7 a.m. bus (#1) to Bako Village from the Jalan Masjid stop. The to-and-fro bus fare was around 7 RM. TIP: Bus timings keep changing, so please find out the timings and numbers the day before from the bus stop counter. If planning a day trip to Bako National Park, one MUST absolutely take the 7 a.m. bus.

Kampung Bako Jetty Point

It took about 50 minutes to reach the jetty pier at Kampung Bako. The entry fee to Bako National Park for foreign nationals was 20 RM. We had to show our passports and enter our passport numbers in a register there. Then we bought one-way boat tickets to the park for 20 RM.  The return ticket should be bought at the counter at the park. It's best to buy it as soon as one reaches the park especially if it's peak season (guess you don't need to wonder why! :). It was a 30-minute ride through the South China Sea's beautiful seascape. At the park's visitor center, we were asked to sign a form and select trails we wished to trek. We chose three trails. Two for sighting the proboscis monkey and one for a viewpoint. We planned to take the last boat back at 4 p.m. TIP: First thing after landing go to the boat ticketing counter, find out the boat timings buy your ticket if planning to return on the same day, and then plan the treks accordingly.

Dead Mangrove

If I haven't forgotten, I think we chose the trails Delima, Pandan Besar, and Pandan Kecil. We began our trek at 9 a.m. The treks were manageable but we didn't see any animals in close range, though we heard a lot of rustling in the trees and saw monkeys way up but too far and too quick to be photographed. Rather they were like shadows jumping around. I wanted to see a monkey close enough to be photographed but not close enough to stand face-to-face :P at least not somewhere where me and the monkeys were alone :/ I hoped not!:) Guides can be hired in Bako but we chose not to. The reason was not our adventurous spirit but our limited budget. I think they charged anywhere between a whopping 100 to 180 RM. We were told the treks could be managed without a guide and we took the risk.

Bako Trails

It was pretty hot and lots of mosquitos. Thankfully, I wore full pants and a full-sleeve shirt and carried a mosquito repellant cream. TIP: Must carry a bottle of water but keep it hidden, monkeys love to snatch bottles from unsuspecting trekkers. On our way back from Delima, we decided to take a quick hike to Ulu Assam. It was a little eerie, and some steep climbs. Am not a very tall person and it was quite a bit of work to climb steep root steps at points. My friend wasn't feeling well and decided to head back, so I went forward alone. After reaching the top I saw a mark that said 'beware of bees' but there was no sign as to which way I had to proceed next. The tree marks may have faded, but then I realized, that Ulu Assam was not ticked as our chosen trail, and we didn't meet any other person on our way, if we got lost, this might be the last place anybody would search. With these thoughts in mind, I decided to turn back. I had to catch up with my friend as well who had already headed back. Later, we mentioned the missing signs at the information desk.

Bako Trails

Pandan Besar was supposed to be a 2-hour walk (to and fro) but I got lost in between trying to look for Pandan Kecil which was supposed to be somewhere around as well. It started raining halfway through but only for a few minutes and it was sunny again. Anyway, I completed the trails in about 3 hours or so. By then I was completely exhausted, I had been walking since 9 a.m. and it was almost 2. Tired, I went back to the information center where my friend was waiting. 

Proboscis Monkey Finally!

There is a small self-service eatery, next to the information desk, with the least appetizing food but the hunger pangs forced us to buy 4 slices of watermelon and a piece of cake. We had just finished eating when we saw a Proboscis monkey right in front of the cafeteria, perched up on a tree.  Well after 5 hours of animal-free, we finally saw one :) now that was some luck. I think I did prefer it there, than meeting one alone in the wilderness :P The monkey was irritated and threw something hard at a visitor clicking its photograph. We also saw a silver leaf monkey that stealthily tried to enter the cafeteria.

Bako Trails

Though we had bought tickets for the 4 pm boat we decided to head back an hour early. Because of low tides, we had to board the boat from the beach. The boat was way out in the sea, and I was half wet by the time I boarded. That covered my sea bathing :P. We reached Kuching about 5 ish. The first thing I needed was a hot water bath followed by a scrumptious dinner. I didn't want to try anything new and went for a tasty olive shrimp fried rice at a Korean restaurant and a sweet dish I don't remember the name of. A good way to end a tiring day. 

Low Tide at The Boat Boarding

Note: One can stay overnight at Bako National Park and take the night treks and the waterfall trails. There are limited beds at the Bako Lodge, hence they have to be pre-booked. Booking is confirmed at their booking office in Kuching. Word of caution: the lodge has bed bugs, so be prepared :P our dorm roommate had been bitten. 

Total expenditure excluding food: 97 RM / Rs. 1552

Day 10

On day 10, we were back to the dorm for 20 RM. We had plans to visit the Gunung Gnading National Park with hopes to see the largest flower in the world, the Rafflesia. The bus schedule at the hostel was an old one, which gave us the wrong bus timings. In the confusion, we missed the first bus to Lundu town. Therefore, once you arrive at Kuching, one of the first things to do is to confirm all required bus timings and numbers from the nearest bus station. Do not depend on internet information or hotel schedules. The timings and numbers change often. There are no direct buses to Lundu town from Jalan Masjid.  One must go to Kuching Sentral and then take a bus to Lundu. The bus fare to Kuching Sentral was 4 RM. It took 30-40 minutes to reach Kuching Sentral. The bus to and fro Lundu was 24 RM. It took 2 hours to reach Lundu. The friendly bus conductor asked us if we planned to walk to the park or take a cab. Since we were short on time we told him we preferred to take a cab. Turned out this guy was a part-time conductor and a part-time cabbie:P  He said when we reach Lundu station, he will fetch his taxi, drop us at the park, and then resume his conductor duties on the bus back to Kuching. He added, that if we needed a taxi on our way back, we should call up his friend to give us a ride and all for 10 RM only.  We accepted the deal. We didn't have many options anyway.

On The Gunung Gnading Trail

The Park entree fee was 20 RM. At the park information center, we received the sad news, that the last Rafflesia had dried out a week back and the new one was still in the bud stage. :( There's really no Rafflesia season. The park kept track of the flowers growing in the conservation area only, there could be flowers deeper into the forest but one could never be sure. We were told Rafflesias don't grow very easily and many times the porcupines feed on the buds making their chances of flowering rarer. I asked the guy at the desk, if not the flower, can I get lucky enough to sight a hornbill? He smiled and replied, 'If you are lucky enough, you might see a python as well' Hmm... I didn't want to get that lucky :P

TIP: If planning to visit Gunung Gnading Park, please call the park to find out if there is a rafflesia in bloom. Otherwise, it may be a waste of a day and money if you have limited time in Kuching.  Of course, there are forest trails, but we had already trekked much the day before. Even the waterfalls at the park weren't in full flow. We were quite disappointed since we could have gone to the caves or the beaches. Anyway, now that we were in the park, I wanted to see the bud at least, unfortunately, we couldn't find the bud either. A guide at Gunung Gnading charges 30 RM. I think it's a must to hire one if looking for the flower, trust me it wasn't easy to locate the bud without one.

Next, we took a trek to the waterfalls. There are three. We were at the first when the siren buzzed. There were some local students bathing at the waterfall, they rushed out and told us to hurry as well. We weren't sure why the hurry. One of them said it's going to rain. Running back wasn't an option at all, the path wasn't the most comfortable, and it was a typical forest trail with slimy rocks and stone, so I took it easy rain or no rain. The students disappeared soon. Guess they are locals and used to these trails. After a while a forest guide appeared out of nowhere, he told us to hurry and disappeared in a jiffy. Thankfully, it started raining heavily, just after we reached. At the information desk, we were told that it's not safe to be in a rainforest when it rains because the tall trees fall down often and may hurt people around.

After the rain stopped, we called the cab to take us back to Lundu. It rained all through for the next hour or so. There are no canteens or shops at the Park. One should ensure to bring bottles of water from Lundu. There is a beach near Lundu but we were too late to make it. We reached Kuching Sentral at 6:30 only to find that the last bus to Kuching city center had left at 6pm. The option left was a taxi. :(

Lundu River Front

A guy who was following us from the bus kept asking if we needed a cab to Kuching center. When we confirmed at the bus counters, there were no buses back, we told the guy that we indeed needed a cab. The guy took us to a group of taxi drivers, one made an offer for 50 RM, another 60 RM and another went to extremes to 100 RM. It was getting dark and we started getting a little worried. We realized these guys were taking advantage of our situation and would keep hiking the price with each passing minute. At the same time, we were feeling victimized and refused to give in to their demands. We argued. Even mentioned that the guy at the airport visitor center had mentioned, that the highest cab fare between any two locations within the City was 26 RM but they laughed it off.

Vexed, hurt, and worried, we went and complained to other tour operators around but they were not well versed in English and couldn't help us much ( I think so!). Luckily, we saw a taxi booth outside the bus stop tucked in one corner. A prepaid taxi booth shouldn't cheat us! With this thought in mind, we approached the guy sitting at the counter. He gladly wrote down a receipt of 30 RM and assigned us to an old taxi driver. That was much better than 50, 60, and 100 definitely :) back at the hostel our hostel owner said, We should have called her, she would have sent some taxi guy she knew. Therefore, it's wise to keep taxi numbers and hotel numbers handy.

Total expenditure excluding food: 108 RM / Rs. 1728

Day 11

The next day, we checked out of the hostel at noon but the owner allowed us to keep our bags there and to use the bathroom and toilet. She said we could use the lobby or the reading room as long as we wished to. We spent the whole day shopping rather than looking for souvenirs. Our flight back to Klia2 was late at 10:30 p.m. We left the hostel at 8 p.m. The taxi from the hostel to the airport charged us 26 RM. Flight back from Kuching was not the best of deals at 160 RM. We reached KLIA2 at around 2 p.m., due to a flight delay. We spent the night at the airport.

Famous Malaysian Layered Cake

Total expenditure excluding food: 186 RM / Rs. 2976

Day 12

On day 12, we decided to visit Melaka again to make up for our previous fiasco. Our return flight to India was scheduled for departure at 9:30 p.m., which gave us enough time to make our Melaka trip. There are direct buses from Klia2 to Melaka at regular intervals with an estimated travel time of 2 1/2 hours. The bus fare to and fro was 50 RM. From Melaka Sentral, we took a bus to Melaka city center where the Unesco heritage sites are located. Bus to and fro to Melaka city center was 4 RM.  We went to the visitor center, picked a map, and then walked around covering all the places mentioned. We took the 4:30 p.m. bus back to Klia2. The fare of the flight back to India was Rs. 6000.

Melaka heritage site

Here's what we ate in Malaysia

Total expenditure excluding food: 407 RM / Rs. 6918

Grand Total of the 5 days in Borneo and a quick Melaka visit = 1004 RM / Rs. 16,064

For A Budget Trip To Malaysia: Part 1 - Peninsula

Malaysia Comes with the tagline 'Truly Asia' and in a way, it's no misnomer. Malaysia houses a population that is an eclectic mix of Asian origins, the native Malayans, the Chinese, and the Indians. Though officially an Islamic state, it showcases rich cultural diversity.

"12 days in $ 600"

Day 1

Kolkata (India) to Kuala Lumpur KLIA2 airfare on Airasia with baggage check-in was Rs. 6000 (375 RM approx).

Our Malaysian trip commenced from Kuala Lumpur. We landed at KLIA 2 (Kuala Lumpur International Airport Terminal 2) around 7 a.m. After freshening up at the airport, we decided to head for the City. The City is about 54 km from the airport and well connected by Express trains, buses, and taxi services. The ground transportation and the express train terminals are at the lowest level of the airport. Express train fares from the airport to KL Sentral are around 35RM and take about 30 minutes. We took an AC bus instead since the fare was 11RM only and took around 40 minutes to KL Sentral. The buses are comfortable and run at regular intervals. Taxis charge around 75 RM (I think!!!)

KL Sentral is the main transportation hub of Kuala Lumpur and is located in the city center. Most trains and buses run or connect from here. KL Sentral is well equipped with all the amenities and shops a traveler might need. There are restaurants, delis, shops, restrooms, shower rooms, locker rooms, and even prayer rooms.

Our plan was to hang around the city during the day and then take an overnight bus to Penang. At KL Sentral we were told that we can get interstate buses from the Terminal Bersepadu Selatan, the main bus terminal of Kuala Lumpur. The other option was taking a train from KL Sentral that departed at 4 p.m. We decided to stick to the overnight bus.

We kept our bags in the locker for a shared 20RM and one-time lock. After a quick breakfast of yummy Mushroom Soup and garlic bread from an Italian deli at the Sentral we headed for the Batu caves. We bought train tickets for 2RM and it took us about 30 mins to reach the Hindu temple caves. The caves are within walking distance from the station.

One of those rare places that touched my spiritual side. This cave temple has an enigmatic feel. Soft breeze, drizzling rain, the smell of sandalwood incense, temple music, and Vedic chants - a divine combination that gives goose bumps.

There is a 272-step climb to reach the main cave temple. On the way you are greeted by monkeys who don't miss any chance to snatch a bottle or food item you are carrying or pose for the camera. We spent a couple hours at the caves and took the train back to KL Sentral. At Sentral, we took tickets to Petronas Towers' KLCC station. The fare was 1.30 RM. We spent the evening hanging around the Petronas. In the evening the place is lit and the towers look absolutely amazing. A great example of post-modern architecture.  After a quick dinner at the tower, we headed back to KL Sentral. Picked our bags from the lockers and took the train to the bus station. The fare was 2RM. Buses run at regular intervals and we decided to take the 1 am bus to Penang. It was around 38RM and took us roughly 5 hours to reach Penang Island.

Total expenditure excluding food: 443 RM per person (including airfare)

Day 2

Our main destination at Penang was Georgetown. My suggestion would be to take the bus to Butterworth and then take the ferry to Georgetown directly instead of taking the bus to the Penang Bus station. We lost a lot of time waiting for a connecting bus to Georgetown from the Bus station.  It was a Friday, a holiday there. I believe the bus frequency is better on a regular day. The bus fare from Penang bus station to Georgetown is around 3 RM. There are taxis at the station but they are comparatively expensive charging around 25 RM.  Our hotel on Victoria Lane was within walking distance of the main graffiti streets that Georgetown is famous for. For the shower and storing our bags, the hotel charged us 20RM for two people. After a quick shower and breakfast at a Tamil restaurant nearby, we headed for a walk around the town.

Graffiti streets in George Town
(A UNESCO Heritage Site)

Next, we took the 2 p.m. ferry to Langkawi. The fare was 60 RM. We walked to the pier but there were buses and the fare was 2 RM or less. It took us 4 hours to reach Langkawi Island. Langkawi was comparatively pricey with no bus transportation and because of the local holiday season. The taxi from the pier to Pantai Cenang where most of the tourists head for budget accommodation took 25RM.

There are hotels ranging from 35 RM a room to 300 RM a room. We didn't prebook and it was a local holiday, pretty bad timing!!! Therefore, ended up paying extra for a non-ac triple bedroom (which we didn't need) but was the only one available close to the beach. We paid 120 RM which could have easily been 60 or 70. If you are good at bargaining which unfortunately I am not, am sure the accommodation prices can be managed for cheaper for a decent room. After freshening up we headed for a night walk around the market which almost emptied out by 9ish. We tried Malaysian street food for dinner. Something like satay but steamed not grilled.

Total expenditure excluding food: 210 RM per person.

Day 3

We had the option of taking different tours in Langkawi -  50 RM for a day tour of the mangroves, 250 - 600 RM or higher for snorkeling and scuba tours, 50 RM for adventure trek, and others ranging from 30 RM to 600 RM +. One can even rent bicycles and motorcycles for self-tours. My feet were in pretty bad shape and swollen, so we decided to take it easy and just dawdled along the beach which was pretty deserted. I assume most of the tourists had gone out for their respective day tours. Before heading back we decided to take a jet ski ride at 20 RM per person. After lunch, we took a taxi for 25 RM back to the jetty pier and took the ferry for 23 RM to Kuala Keddah.

At Kuala Keddah pier, buses are not very frequent, at least that was told to us, and since we were short on time we decided to take a cab to the bus terminus Shahab Perdana. The taxi took 20 RM for the commute. When we reached there, we were told all buses for Kuala Terengganu were full :( Quite disheartened while we were wondering what to do next, someone said, a special bus had been announced for the night. The bus departure was at 9:30 pm and the fare was  61 RM. Later we found that tickets for other sold-out buses were 50 RM and below. We went back to the agent and questioned him regarding the fare difference but he justified it by saying it was a special bus hence the special fare. Well, we were much too exhausted to argue in a foreign land. So yes, be careful.

The bus didn't quite arrive at 9:30 p.m. Rather the bus didn't arrive at all. Am assuming the bus operator didn't find enough travelers for the extra bus and finally sent us in a Van with 10 others at 11 pm past :P. Trust me had it been some other time and some other part of the world we would have protested but well it was drizzling, it was already too late in a small quaint town. We agreed to the deal. Fortunately, the road was good, it rained the whole night and from whatever little I could see, the route was beautiful.

Total expenditure excluding food: 149 RM per person.

Day 4

We arrived at Kuala Terengganu at around 6 a.m. It took us roughly 7 hours without any stops. The van dropped us at the Kuala Terengganu Bus Terminus. Our plan was to head to the islands. Perhentian or Kapas or Redang but then came the bad news. All islands on the east coast were closed due to the monsoons :( for roughly 4 months starting November. Well, most of the beautiful Malaysian islands are on the east coast and that definitely was one of our main attractions. Well, we couldn't go against Mother Nature. Lesson learned: Research better! Therefore please, NOTE: ALL EAST COAST ISLANDS IN MALAYSIA ARE CLOSED DURING MONSOONS ROUGHLY BETWEEN NOVEMBER - MARCH. One should surely get that confirmed before planning an island trip. A second NOTE: MONSOONS IN MALAYSIA MEANS RAIN NOW AND THEN. BE PREPARED WITH AN UMBRELLA/RAINCOAT OR JUST ENJOY GETTING WET :).

Next, we headed for the beach from the bus terminus to look for a beach hotel. There are no buses in Kuala Terengganu. Only Taxis!! The taxi charged us 24 RM for our hotel hunt.  The hotels on the beach were beyond our budget. Finally, we chose one at a walking distance. The hotel tariff was 100 RM. The hotels near the bus stop and Chinatown are comparatively cheaper. There are cheaper homestays near the crystal mosque area. After a hot shower and a good long sleep. We went out for a walk around the town. Since Malaysia is predominantly Islamic, there are many mosques and I must acknowledge that, architecturally the country has some really beautiful Islamic monuments. In the evening I took a taxi to the Crystal mosque which charged me 25 RM for the round trip and waited. The driver, an old gentleman was very hospitable and friendly for a lone traveler and did not charge the waiting fare.

Total expenditure excluding food: 149 RM per person.

Day 5

The next day early morning we went to the beach. The South China Sea has beautiful surfing waves and there were a couple of surfers doing their feat in the drizzling rain. Unfortunately, it started raining heavily and we had to rush back to the hotel. The hotels allow luggage storage after checkout for free for a few hours. Because of the rain, we couldn't explore the area much, but we still tried whenever the rain slowed. In the afternoon we headed for the Bus terminus in a cab for 12 RM. At the bus terminus, we kept our bags in a locker room for 4 RM a bag and purchased tickets for Melaka for 47 RM. Our bus was due for departure at 9:30 pm, so, we had some time in the evening to explore other areas in the town when the rain stopped. Kuala Terengganu is quite a nice place to hang around for a day or two. It's quiet and laid back. The islands would have made our stay more rewarding for sure. Maybe next time :)

Total expenditure excluding food: 63 RM per person.

Day 6

Borrowed from the we(My pics went hazy :( )

We arrived at Melaka Sentral early in the morning. I think the journey took us roughly 8 hrs. I was on some weekly medication, which made me quite sick. So Day 6 in Melaka didn't go exactly as I had wished. We picked a hotel in China town which was way out and a big mistake. There is one bus that runs every 1 hr to Chinatown and it takes around 30 minutes to reach its destination. The fare is 2 RM. A taxi would charge 25 RM.

A better place to stay in Melaka is the City center which is close to the UNESCO heritage sites. Our hotel tariff was 60 RM.  I slept almost till 3 p.m. The day was pretty mismanaged and we ended up not seeing much. Rather we managed to visit Mosque Selat only at the Malaka strait on an island the Melaka Pulau. (Malaysian for the island is Pulau and for the beach is Pantai). Mosque Selat is an absolute must if visiting Melaka.

Later we bought tickets to KLIA2 for 25 RM of the last bus leaving at 8:30 pm.  The bus to the city center fare was 2 RM. The taxi to Mosque Selat from the city center was 20 RM. The taxi fare from Mosque Selat to Chinatown was 20 RM. Taxi fares can be bargained I believe - am bad at it :P. The taxi fare from Chinatown to Melaka Sentral was 25 RM. This was the most mismanaged most expensive and least fruitful day of our trip.

Total expenditure excluding food: 154 RM per person.

Total expenditure for 6 days excluding food: 1168 RM / Rs. 18688 per person.

 ( I have not included food expenses here but the entire trip with the food, airfare, and all the mismanaged extras and the souvenirs totaled Rs. 40K.  We ate well and spent at least 30 RM on food per day)

PS: A good way to travel across Malaysia would be to rent a car. The roads are pretty good in most places.

Day 7

Off to Borneo. Contd. in Part 2