Showing posts with label Fauna. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fauna. Show all posts

Tuesday, March 10, 2026

The Peepal Tree and the Birds: Stories from an Urban Balcony


Across the balcony stands a Peepal tree.

Most days it appears ordinary—its branches tangled against the skyline, its leaves trembling in the smallest breeze. People pass beneath it without looking up. Yet for those who pause long enough, the tree reveals a different world.

Birds arrive there every day.

Some come only for a moment, resting on the electric wires that cross the street. Others hop through the branches, pecking at the small figs hidden among the leaves. Some sing loudly, announcing the morning. Others remain silent, watching the sky.

From the balcony, I began to notice them.

What started as a way of passing the time slowly became a habit of attention. Each bird seemed to carry its own story, its own small way of living with the seasons, the wind, and the city.

At the center of it all stood the Peepal tree.

Old trees have a way of witnessing more than we realize. They stand through heat and rain, through the coming and going of birds, quietly absorbing the life that gathers around them.

These pages are a small record of those encounters—moments shared between a tree, its birds, and an observer on a balcony.

Story One: The Red Whiskered Bulbul

Story Two: The Purple Sunbird

Story Three: The Asian Green Bee-eater

Story Four: The Coppersmith Barbet

Story Five: The Red-vented Bulbul

Tuesday, September 17, 2024

Why We Chose Serengeti for Our African Safari – Serengeti vs Masai Mara vs Kruger

Choosing the right destination for an African safari can be confusing. The Serengeti in Tanzania, the Masai Mara in Kenya, and Kruger National Park in South Africa are among the most renowned wildlife reserves in the world. While planning our first safari, we compared these three destinations based on cost, logistics, wildlife sightings, and our travel constraints.

A Lioness Pride in Serengeti National Park

The African safari had been on my bucket list for a long time, but it always felt far beyond my travel budget. This time, however, I decided to just go for it. After COVID-19, decisions have become quicker—who knows what tomorrow holds? The mindset has been simple: if you want to do something, just do it today.
With only 10 days of vacation and limited funds, we had to plan carefully and make the most of the trip within those constraints.

We wanted to experience the Great Migration, so late July to early August was initially pinned as our travel window. Unfortunately, by then almost everything for August was already booked, and we had to plan our itinerary around the dates when accommodation was still available inside Serengeti National Park.

Lesson learnt: if you’re planning a safari trip, plan well in advance. To secure good accommodation at a reasonable price, it’s best to book at least six months ahead of your travel dates. We were only four months away from our target date—and it was truly late!

Our final itinerary included three days in Zanzibar, four days in Serengeti National Park, and two days reserved for travel. Part of the family flew from Delhi to Zanzibar via Mumbai and Dar es Salaam, while the rest traveled from Milan via Doha.

Air Tanzania operates direct flights to Zanzibar and Arusha from Mumbai via Dar es Salaam. The reason we preferred this route was simple—we wanted to avoid the yellow fever vaccination requirement!

Yellow Fever Vaccination Requirements for Tanzania

Tanzania is not a Yellow Fever endemic zone, as recognized by the WHO. If you fly to Tanzania directly from a non-endemic country and depart directly to another non-endemic country, the vaccination is generally not required, although some travelers may still choose to take it as a precaution. However, if your journey involves transit through a Yellow Fever endemic country, the vaccination becomes mandatory.

We were traveling with septuagenarians who are at a higher risk of serious side effects from the vaccine, so we wanted to avoid it if possible. In fact, people aged 60 and above are often advised to avoid the Yellow Fever vaccination unless it is absolutely necessary.

South Africa and Tanzania are not endemic zones, which makes them suitable safari destinations for travelers above 60. Kenya, however, is classified as an endemic zone, which is why the Masai Mara was not an option for us.

Please note: In 2022, Tanzania temporarily required a Yellow Fever vaccination for all travelers, regardless of their flight origin or destination, due to an outbreak in Kenya. Regulations can change, so it is always advisable to check with the relevant embassy and the airline before planning your trip.

Serengeti (including Ngorongoro crater), Tanzania vs Masai Mara, Kenya vs Kruger, South Africa

The three most popular destinations for a once-in-a-lifetime African safari are Serengeti (Tanzania), Masai Mara (Kenya), and Kruger National Park (South Africa). Choosing between them was not easy, so we compared them across several practical factors before making our decision.

Here are the key pointers that guided us:

1. Yellow Fever vaccination
This was at the very top of our list. Serengeti (Tanzania) and Kruger (South Africa) did not require it for our travel route, while Masai Mara (Kenya) did. That immediately removed the Masai Mara from our shortlist.

For Indian travelers, Kenya falls under the list of countries considered at risk for Yellow Fever transmission, and the Government of India requires vaccination when traveling to or transiting through such regions. Since we were traveling with septuagenarians who are advised to avoid the vaccine unless absolutely necessary, the Masai Mara was removed from our shortlist.

2. Flight cost
Flight to Kenya < Flight to Serengeti < Flight to Kruger.
Kruger was the farthest from both Milan and Delhi, and flights for July–August were significantly more expensive, which removed Kruger from consideration and left Serengeti as the practical choice.

3. Park fees
Kruger < Serengeti < Masai Mara.

4. Travel costs within the park
Masai Mara < Kruger < Serengeti.
Travel in the Serengeti tends to be more expensive because visitors must pay the Ngorongoro Conservation Area fee while entering and exiting the park.

5. Accommodation costs
Kruger < Masai Mara < Serengeti.
Kruger has the widest range of affordable lodges and camps compared to the other two.

6. Availability of accommodation
Serengeti < Masai Mara < Kruger.
Serengeti has relatively fewer accommodations, which makes availability more limited, especially during peak migration season.

7. Park size
Masai Mara < Serengeti < Kruger.
The Masai Mara is the northern extension of the Serengeti ecosystem within Kenya and is the smallest of the three reserves. Serengeti National Park is significantly larger, while Kruger remains one of the largest and most accessible wildlife parks in Africa.

Serengeti National Park: ~14,750 km²
Ngorongoro Conservation Area: ~8,292 km²
Masai Mara National Reserve: ~1,510 km²
Kruger National Park: ~19,485 km²

Technically, Serengeti is the largest ecosystem (including Ngorongoro and other game reserves), while Kruger is the largest single national park with full infrastructure.

8. Chances of seeing the Big Five
Masai Mara < Serengeti < Kruger.
Kruger offers the highest probability of spotting all of the Big Five. In fact, both white and black rhinos are more commonly seen there, whereas we struggled to catch even a brief glimpse of a black rhino in Ngorongoro Crater.

Kruger National Park has a relatively stronger and more stable rhino population, so sightings are more common.

Serengeti technically has the Big Five, but rhinos are extremely rare there.

Most rhino sightings in northern Tanzania happen in Ngorongoro Crater, not in the main Serengeti plains.

Masai Mara also has Big Five sightings, but rhinos are limited and usually seen in specific conservancies.

9. Chances of witnessing the Great Migration and river crossings
Kruger < Masai Mara < Serengeti.
Because Serengeti and the Masai Mara have vast stretches of open savannah plains, they provide better opportunities to see massive herds during the migration.

The Great Migration mainly happens in Serengeti
The Masai Mara hosts the river crossing phase
Kruger has no migration event

10. Self-drive safari convenience
Serengeti < Masai Mara < Kruger.
Kruger is the most convenient park for self-drive safaris. In Serengeti, self-driving is extremely limited and generally not practical for most visitors.

Kruger = best self-drive safari in Africa
Masai Mara = possible but not very common
Serengeti = impractical without guides

11. Terrain and landscape
Kruger has a bushy landscape, while Masai Mara and Serengeti are dominated by expansive savannah grasslands. The Serengeti–Mara ecosystem feels more open and dramatic.

12. Best months to visit
Kruger: May–October
Masai Mara: June–October
Serengeti: January–February (calving season) and June–September (migration period)

13. Ease of getting a visa
South Africa < Kenya ≈ Tanzania.
All three countries offer e-visa options, but friends told us that South Africa’s visa processing time is often longer than the typical 7-day turnaround for Kenya and Tanzania.


Conclusion:
After weighing all these factors, Serengeti emerged as the most practical choice for our trip, balancing wildlife experience, travel logistics, and our constraints of time and budget.

What mattered most for us

While many factors differed between the three parks, three considerations ultimately drove our decision:

  1. Yellow Fever vaccination requirements – Since we were traveling with septuagenarians who were advised to avoid the vaccine, Kenya was not a practical option.

  2. Flight logistics and cost – Flights to South Africa were significantly more expensive for our July–August travel window.

  3. The Great Migration – Visiting during migration season made the Serengeti the most compelling wildlife destination.

That left us with a clear choice: the Serengeti.

Kruger may be better for Big Five completeness, but Serengeti is often more dramatic for first-time safari visitors, especially during migration season.

And pairing it with Zanzibar was honestly a classic safari itinerary choice — wildlife + coast.


Great Migration, July 2024

Most Popular African Safari Destinations include the following countries: Uganda, Kenya, Rwanda, Tanzania, Malawi, Mozambique, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Namibia, Botswana, and South Africa

If I get a chance to take a second trip, it will be to Kruger. The Masai Mara still remains off the list because of the vaccination requirement. Zambia and Zimbabwe are next because Victoria Falls is also on my bucket list. Let's see what life has in store!

Who Should Choose Serengeti?

Choose Serengeti if you want:

  • to see the Great Migration

  • vast savannah landscapes

  • a classic African safari experience

Choose Kruger if you want:

  • affordable safari

  • self-drive safaris

  • higher chances of seeing the Big Five

Choose the Masai Mara if you want:

  • easier access from Nairobi

  • migration river crossings

Wildlife experiences like the Serengeti safari sparked my deeper interest in observing animals and birds. Recently, I began documenting the birds visiting the Peepal tree outside my balcony in Delhi in a series called The Peepal Tree and the Bird: Stories from an urban balcony.

Wednesday, April 19, 2023

10 Days Trip To Gujarat And Diu

A painting on the wall of one of the Dwarka Temples
The trip destinations
State of Gujarat districts

Day 1

We flew to Ahmedabad on the first day. At Ahmedabad airport, we hired a car with a driver for our road trip to Dwarka. We reached Dwarka around late evening.


Day 2

The second day started early. We went to the Dwarkadhish temple first. Then to the Pandava wells and the beach. After lunch, we took a boat ride from Okha to Beyt Dwarka. On the way back to the hotel, we visited some other popular temples in Dwarka. 

Places of interest in Dwarka
On the way to Dwarka
Dwarkadheesh Temple
Beyt Dwarka
Nageshwar Jyotirling
Nageshwar Jyotirlinga Temple
Day 3

On the third day, we went to Nageshwar temple Jyotirling in the morning and then after lunch, we headed towards Porbandar. We reached Porbandar around 5:00 p.m. So, we decided to just relax at the beach in the evening.


Places of interest in Porbandar
Mahatma Gandhi's birth home
Sunset at Porbandar beach
Huzoor Palace
Day 4

On the fourth day, we went to Mahatma Gandhi's birth home, Kirti Mandir which is now a museum. After Kirti Mandir, we toured around the other popular tourist attractions in Porbandar.


Places of interest in Somnath
Somnath Temple from the beach
Somnath temple in the evening
Day 5

On the fifth day, we drove down to Somnath early in the morning. After dropping our bags at the hotel, we headed for Somnath Temple. From Somnath, we went to the beach and other popular tourist attractions in the city. In the evening we came back to the Somnath temple for the light and sound show.


Day 6

On the sixth day, we drove down to Diu. We had a beachfront hotel at Nagao Beach, so we spent the day at the beach. There were quite many beach activities. In the afternoon we went to Gangeshwar Mahadev and Sunset Point at the Chakratirtha beach


Banana boat rides at Nagao Beach
Gangeshwar Mahadev
Watching the sunset from Chakratirth Beach

A sea (Gulf of Khambat) viewpoint near Gangeshwar Mahadev

Day 7

On the seventh day, we toured around Diu in the first half and in the late afternoon headed for Gir National Park.

Places of interest in Diu
Diu Fort
Pani Kotha Jail
Diu Museum
St Paul's Church
Old City Gate Diu
Day 8

On the eighth day, we went for the jungle safari early in the morning and went to one of the wildlife sanctuaries in the afternoon.

Early morning at Kamleshwar Dam
Watching the sunrise from the watch tower

Sasan Gir National Park is surrounded by Gir Wildlife Sanctuaries. There are some lakes and temples within the Park area. Our Safari route took us through Sasan - Khokhra - Shirvan - Dev Dungar - Shirvan - Khokhra - Vawalwala Chowk - Kamleshwar Dam - Kankai Check post - Sasan

National Parks (NP) and Wildlife Sanctuaries (WS) in the state of Gujarat
The dark brown part is the national park area - Our safari route covered the western periphery of the park from Kankai to Devadungar
Barking Deer or Indian Muntjac
Blackbuck - The endangered Indian Antelope 
Peacock without tail. At the end of the mating season, most peacocks shed their tail feathers. The tail grows back again before the next mating season
Nilgai or Blue Bull
Spotted Deer or Chital
Chinkara or Indian Gazelle
A camouflaged Jungle Cat. These are currently among the critically endangered species
Lions at Devalia Park - we didn't see any lions on the morning safari so we decided to go for an afternoon safari at the park which is kind of a reserve
Day 9 

On the ninth day, we headed for Junagadh early in the morning. Our plan was to cover some of the popular tourist destinations in the city and go directly to Ahmedabad. It was a little hectic plan and I later felt we should have stayed back at Junagadh for a day. We reached Ahmedabad close to midnight and were completely exhausted.


Places of interest in Junagadh
Junagadh Fort / Uperkot Fort
Adi Kadi Vav (Stepwell)
Junagadh Fort
Buddha Caves at the fort
Day 10

On the tenth day, we went to the Sabarmati riverfront and the Gandhi Ashram first. Since we had a long day the day before, we woke up pretty late that day. We had plans for Patan, Modhera, and Adlaj but canceled all of that. It would have become another hectic squeezed breathless trip. We decided to do Ahmedabad and the sites close to Ahmedabad the next time. We had an early morning flight the next day.


Places of interest close to Ahmedabad 
Places of interest in Ahmedabad
Sabarmati Ashram
Hazrat Bai Harir Vav (Stepwell)
Lothal, Ruins of the Harappan Civilization
Rani ka Vav (Stepwell), Patan
Modhera Sun Temple
Adlaj, Stepwell
Statue of Unity