How Were The Plitvice Lakes And Waterfalls Formed?

Plitvice Lakes: Tufa or Meteogene Travertine or Sedra (Croatian term): It is a porous variety of limestone deposits formed on waterbeds when calcium-rich water bodies create carbonates which form sticky layers on moss and algae present in the water. Over the years, these deposits form tower-like formations

Thermogene Travertine in Yellow Stone National Park

 Meteogene travertine (Tufa) vs Thermogene travertine

The main difference between meteogene travertine and thermogene travertine is that one is formed in unheated conditions and one is formed in a heated condition. Meteogene travertine is highly porous and spongy and is formed in cooler temperatures while thermogene travertine is less in porosity and needs very high temperatures for its formation. Meteogene travertine is a result of atmospheric and epigeal activities while thermogene travertine is a result of volcanic activities.

Source of image: Link The Plitvice region receives abundant rain feeding a continuous supply of water to the lakes and rivers which are rich in moss and algae which in turn supply carbon dioxide. The rich forest cover provides an abundance of oxygen which helps sustain life forms in the region. The Dolomite and Limestone rich soil supplies a high volume of calcium-rich ions. 

Process of Tufa creation

Ca++ (calcium ions in calcium rich water and soil) + H2O (water) = Ca(OH)2  (Calcium hydroxide)

Ca(OH)2 +CO2 (carbon dioxide from atmosphere and the aquatic life) = CaCO3 (calcium carbonate limestone / tufa) +H2O

In simple words, quicklime when mixed with water forms calcium hydroxide. This in turn converts to calcium carbonate when Carbon dioxide released by the aquatic organisms reacts with calcium hydroxide. The carbon dioxide released by the underwater organisms gets released to the surface in the colder seasons. The calcium carbonate deposits which are insoluble in water then start depositing on the moss and algae on the water surface eventually forming porous, spongy tufa. 

Tufa towers eventually form small tower-like structures creating barriers in the flowing water thus forming a series of lakes and waterfalls.

Karst in South Thailand

A landscape rich in tufa is called Karst. The main features of Karst topography are the abundance of soluble calcium in the form of limestone, dolomites, gypsum, etc,  clean water full of aquatic organisms and lifeforms, and a landscape with sink holes, fissures, underground streams, and caves.

Picture source: Link

More about Plitvice Lakes and Waterfalls

Plitvice National Park And Its Legends

 

A: Veliki Slap Waterfall (The highest waterfall in Croatia at 78 m)  B: Korana River C: Sastavci Waterfall D: Novakovica Lake

The Legend of the Black Queen

Legend has it, the Plitvice Lakes were magically created by the Black Queen of Croatia. The Black Queen was a cruel, mean-spirited ruler, who reigned over the region a long long time ago during the dark ages. During those times, this region was fed by the Black River, and the forest surrounding it was called the Devil's Garden (Vražji vrt), inhabited by magical creatures. As the dark ages grew darker, a long, deadly drought dried up the river and brought the people to the feet of the Queen begging for water and life. For once, the Queen gave up her mean spirit, showed mercy, and magically created a large Lake, promising that it will never dry.  The Lake was named Proscansko after the Croatian word Prositi which means "beg for".

How were the Plitvice Lakes and Waterfalls formed?

Schengen Visa:

As of January 2023, Croatia is an official member of the Schengen Countries and a Schengen Visa is required for entry to this country. We traveled to Croatia from Italy. More precisely, we were visiting Venice when we decided to head for the lakes in Plitvice, Croatia. We traveled to Italy from India on a multiple-entry Schengen tourist visa. Getting a Schengen Visa was not very difficult. It can be applied through VFS in Delhi. The VFS office is located at the Shivaji Stadium metro station. It took about a week between applying for the visa and receiving it. 

Mode of travel:

While there are multiple modes of travel to Croatia from Venice, we opted for the Bus. The bus ticket was booked online through Flix bus. We faced no issues getting the tickets, boarding, and traveling. The route was via Ljubljana, Slovenia. It took us about 5 hours to reach Zagreb.

The other options to travel to Croatia from Venice are, train, air, and ferry. While air travel is the quickest, it's the most expensive as well. Rail and waterway were long overnight journeys, hence we chose the bus.

Day 1: 

We were in Zagreb for a day. Our short stay was made deliciously memorable with freshly baked yummy pastries and a music festival, which we luckily got a chance to attend at the Zagreb square.

Day 2:

On day 2 early morning, we took another Flix Bus from Zagreb to Slunj. It took about 2 hours to reach Slunj. Zagreb has a good network of tram services and we didn't have any problem traveling around the city. Small tobacco stores near the tram stop/stations sell the tickets. When we traveled to Croatia in 2019, they were still using the Kuna as their currency. So, we exchanged some Euros at the bus station on our arrival the previous day. In January 2023, Croatia adopted the Euro as its official currency making life easier. 

Slunj is a small quiet quaint little town or maybe a village. I regret not planning a longer stay here. We booked a bread and breakfast here with a lovely river view room and lawn. I could have spent weeks here amidst nature's quiet beauty. Will share details of Slunj in another post.

 

Day 3:

On day 3 we booked a Flix bus to Plitvice Lakes. We waited at the bus stop at the said time, but the bus passed by without stopping to pick us up. We tried to enquire about the next bus or any other transportation options to the park but language proved a barrier since the locals were not well-versed in English. Most tourists travel to the park in rented cars or their own vehicles. After wasting almost 3 hours, we met a lady who understood English and helped us get another bus to the park. Our initial plan was to start early to avoid the afternoon sun. It was one of the warmest summers in Europe that year. Unfortunately, we started post 12:00 pm.

We finally arrived at the Lakes at 1:00 pm. The bus dropped us at the Ticket Office at entrance 1. They mentioned that the last bus left around 6:00 pm and if missed that, it might be a very long wait till late at night before we can get another bus. All restaurants closed around the time the park closed. There were very limited places of accommodation. This meant we had to ensure, we were back at the bus stop much before 6:00 pm since the buses here didn't quite follow the correct timings.

Entry Timings:

Summer timings (June and August) : 

7:00 am to 8:00 pm 

Last entry at 6:00 pm

Autumn/Fall (September and October) :

7:00 / 8:00 am to 6:00 / 7:00 pm 

Last entry at 4:00 / 5:00 pm

Winter timings  (November to March) :

8:00 am to 4:00 pm

Last entry at 2:00 pm

Spring timings (April and May) :

8:00 am -7:00 pm

Last entry at 5:00 pm

Ticket Prices are shared on the official website. Prices vary by season, entry timings, and age.

We entered the park around 1:00 pm and were out by 5:00 pm. We didn't want to risk missing the bus back but as a result, we skipped a few viewpoints and shorter treks. 

My suggestion is to pre-book the hotel at the park which is right across from the entrance 2 ticket office. It is a bit pricey and gets booked pretty fast in the peak summer season. Plan ahead and save the stress of missing buses. There are a few local taxis, at entrance 2, but they charge exorbitant rates.

The Lakes and the Waterfalls:

Must say the lakes, the waterfalls, and the park was gorgeous. All the trouble to get here was definitely worth it. 

There are about 8 trails that the visitors can take depending on how much they choose to see in a day. Details are available on the official park website. Since we planned a day trip and had wasted half a day thanks to the bus that ditched us, we opted for the C program with a slight change. Instead of going back to the starting point, we cut our hike short at ST2 and returned via entrance 2. We had to forgo some good views between St2 and Entrance 1. However, we managed to cover the entire park and took the boat ride on Lake Kozjak

I assume, starting the trek at entrance 2 is a wee bit better than entrance 1. Entrance 1 is close to the lower lakes and it's a climb all the way up to the highest lake, Proscansko. While from Entrance 2, it's a short climb to Proscansko and then a climb down to the lower lakes. 

Source of map: Official website https://np-plitvicka-jezera.hr/en/plan-your-visit/istrazite-jezera/activities/lake-tour-programmes/

The highest lake is at 637 m above sea level and the lowest lake is at 503 m above sea level 

Climbing up towards Lake Kaluderovac. The boardwalks are comfortable and safe. We went during peak summer when the boards were dry. They might get slippery during wet seasons.

Lake Kaluderovac at 505 m above sea level. The turquoise waters are clean and one can see the fishes and plants under water.

Lake Gavanovac at 514 m above sea level. Swimming is prohibited in the lakes. Water from the rivers and the lakes at the park is supplied as drinking water to the municipalities of Rakovica and Plitvicka

The Legend of the Gavanovo treasure

Local legends suggest,  at the bottom of Lake Gavanovac lies the hidden treasure trove of a magician named Gavan, after whom the lake gets its name. Gavan, the wizard had a treasure box of fairies and spirits with magical powers. Gavan was a kind and honest person and used this power for the welfare of his people but one day the Black Queen, heard about his treasure and sent her men to capture him. Fearing, the queen will misuse the powers, Gavan gave the box to his faithful servant Juraj and asked him to hide it in the deep forest. While escaping the Queen's men, Juraj fell into the lake releasing the fairies and the spirits. The fairies saved him, Gavan, and they kept the lake protected from the reach of the Black Queen. It is said the box still lies in the bottom of the lake and the fairies are heard singing in the stillness of the starry nights at the lakes.

Milanovacki slap Waterfall and Lake Milanovac at 524 m above sea level

Slapovi Milke Trnine Waterfall was named after Katarina Milka Ternina a famous Croatian Soprano (1863-1941)

Lake Kozjak at 535 m above sea level. It is also the deepest (47 m) and the largest (81.5 ha) lake in the national park. We took a boat from P1 boat point to P3 boat point. There is a rest area and a gift shop with ice cream and snacks near P1.

Veliki Pstavac Waterfall seen from Lake Burgeti at 545 m above sea level

Gradinsko Lake at 554 m above sea level 

Veliki Prstavac Waterfall (28 m high)

Milino Jezero Lake at 576 m above sea level

Galovacki Buk Waterfall and Galovac Lakr at 585 m above sea level

Bird's Eye view Picture clicked in 1937 Source: Link There are 6 small lakes between Proscansko and Galovac lakes at different heights. Vir at 500 m asl, Malo at 605 m asl, Veliko at 607 m asl, Baltinovac at 610 m asl, Okrugljak at 613 m asl and Ciganovac at 625 m asl

Proscansko Jezero at 627 m above sea level the highest lake. 

 

We took the shuttle back to entrance 2 from ST3 shuttle point near Proscansko. We were short on time, hence, chose to cut short a part of the trail between ST2 and Entrance 1. Perhaps will plan a visit in winter or fall. I heard the colors are grander in fall and the frozen lakes in winter are a surreal experience.

30 Days In Europe

Our 30-day Europe trip covered parts of Italy, Switzerland, and Croatia. I had been to Italy and Switzerland but this time my parents and cousins decided to join us. With parents, backpacking was not an option. So, we had a good number of breaks in Milan. The trip started in mid-June and ended in mid-July. Must make a mention that summer in these parts was not a great idea. Not even Switzerland! Global warming has pretty much messed up the seasons big big time! I was shocked to find Switzerland a lot warmer than usual. The hotels did not have fans or air-conditioners for obvious reasons but we did feel the need for one. Croatia was the warmest! I have vowed, that trips to southern Europe in summer are definitely a no-no!

We flew from Delhi to Milan Via Kuwait on Kuwait Airways. I have flown Kuwait Airways a few times and have found it pretty good. Food and service were good and the layovers in Kuwait were comfortable. This is not a sponsored blog, hence be assured it's genuine feedback.

Itinerary:

Day 1 - Day 3: Milan, Italy

We have family in Milan, so took a pre-trip break in the city. Didn't do much, just relaxed and explored the Garibaldi area (pretty much the center of Milan) where we were staying. 

Basilica Di San Simpliciano in Garibaldi

Day 4 - Train to Tirano, Italy

On day 4 we took an early morning train to Tirano. The train ride was a scenic 3-hour journey along Lake Como. Trains in Italy are quite comfortable and convenient.

Lake Como clicked from the train on the way to Tirano 

Tirano is a small Italian city close to the Italy-Switzerland border. We were going to board the famous Bernina Express at Tirano. The idea was to spend a couple hours in the city and then head towards Chur. Had I known I would fall in love with Tirano, I would have planned an overnight stay in the quaint little city.

 

Santuario della Madonna

Places of interest in Tirano

Day 4 - Bernina Express from Tirano to Chur, Switzerland

The Bernina Express Rhaetian Railways Route is one of the most scenic train routes in the world. The section between Tirano and Thusis is listed under the UNESCO World Heritage Sites. 

Spiral Viaduct Brusio turns almost 360 degrees and is one of a kind.

Landwasser Viaduct - An engineering feet. This massive dolomite limestone structure is one of the highest viaducts built for rail tracks. It's 213 feet high and 466 feet long and is supported by six 66 feet wide arches

Day 5 - Chur

On the banks of the Rhine, surrounded by the Alps, Chur is a perfect weekend getaway for a quiet stay. It is the oldest City or one of the oldest cities in Switzerland.

Places of interest in Chur

The Alpine City of Chur is surrounded by the mountains Calanda (in the north), Montalin (in the east) and Brambruesch (in the south)

Day 6 - Bernina Express from Chur to Tirano

Palu Glacier is one of the large glaciers in the Bernina Range of the Rhaetian Alps

Lake Palu at the foot of Palu Glacier seen from Alp Grum station

Lake Bianco near Bernina Pass

Day 6 - Train to Milan

Day 7 - Milan

On the 7th day, we took a break in Milan again and spent most of the day shopping at the Duomo malls. 

Day 8 - Bus to Venice, Italy

The next day we headed for Venice. We reached Venice in the late afternoon. Last time we stayed in Venice. This time we decided to stay in Mestre. However, to explore and experience Venice better I suggest staying in Venice instead of Mestre.

Day 9 - Venice

Venice was way more crowded than ever and the summer was too hard to bear. As per my experience, September definitely is a better time to visit than June/July. 

The Rialto Bridge on the Grand Canal

Day 10 - Bus to Zagreb, Croatia from Venice

Bus was the fastest means to get to Zagreb from Venice and was pretty much hassle-free. We had to stop for a few minutes at the border to get the passport stamped. Rest it was a direct 4-hour ride.

Places of interest near Zagreb

 

Places of interest in Zagreb

We were in Zagreb for only a day. Just explored around the Zagreb square and had a chance to attend a music fest at the square. Must mention, Zagreb has the best bakeries. I couldn't get enough of the bakery items - Simply yummy:)

Day 11 - Bus to Slunj, Croatia from Zagreb

The bus ride to Slunj was quite uneventful and took about an hour and a half. Slunj is a tiny town and a perfect place to spend a few quiet days away from the hustle and bustle of city life. If one enjoys fish, this is the perfect place for trouts and other freshwater fish. Our main destination was Plitvice National Park which was just 30 minutes away from Slunj. The two lodges in Plitvice were all full due to peak season and our best bet was to stay in Slunj. 

The only problem living in Slunj was the transportation. If one has a vehicle or has rented a vehicle there is no issue but if there is no vehicle, getting a cab or bus here is a bit difficult. Also, language is a bit of a problem, We booked the flix bus online for our travel to Plitvice but the bus never got there or didn't stop at the stop it was supposed to come to. Luckily one person who understood English, helped us with another bus, or we would have completely missed our trip to Plitvice. We did lose some hours due to the bus fiasco. The details of Plitvice are in another post. 

Day 12 - Bus to Plitvice Lakes National Park

Day 13 - Slunj

Slunj is a small town closest to Plitvice National Park. We didn't get accommodation at the National Park Lodge since it was the peak season and Slunj-Rastoke was the next best option. The location is barely 30 minutes drive. If one has a rented car, Slunj would be the best place to stay. If not, it may get a tad bit inconvenient, since taxis are very expensive and buses do not have a fixed schedule. We did not have a car, so were dependent on public transportation because of which we had to leave the park earlier than we had planned. The scare was if we missed the last bus we would be stranded or shell out a bomb for a taxi. 

I loved the stay at Slunj. The bed and breakfast was cozy with a beautiful view of the river in the backyard. For fish waters, it's a perfect place. We had a scrumptious lunch and breakfast of fresh river fish.

Slunj River

Rastoke Waterfall

Korona River Karst Topography

Karst topography can be seen all through this region

National Parks in Croatia

Day 14 - Bus to Split from Slunj via Zadar

On the 14th day, we headed for Split via Zadar. The ride was scenic for the most part, particularly after Zadar, when the bus went along the sea coast.

Zadar Seafront on the way to Split

Sibenik on the way to Split

Day 15 - Split

Split is one of the oldest towns in Croatia. We stayed in a bed and breakfast very close to the old town. The only negative was the weather. The scorching heat made it very difficult to walk around. We didn't venture beyond the old town because of the sweltering climate and any which way, the old town had most of the places of interest.

Places of interest in southern Croatia

Places of interest in Split

Places of interest in Split Old Town

Diocletian Palace, Old Town, Split

St. Domnius Cathedral 

Crypt of St. Domnius Cathedral

Temple of Jupiter

Day 16 - Ferry to Ancona, Italy from Split

We took an overnight ferry from Split to cross across the Adriatic Sea to Ancona, Italy. It was an enjoyable cruise. We reached early morning. The Ancona railway station was close to the port. We took a bus from the port to Piazza Kennedy. 

St Domnius Cathedral from the Port of Split

Day 17 - Ancona to Rome, Italy

The train from Ancona to Roma was about 4 hours. We did not have to wait long at Piazza Kennedy. 

Ancona Railway Station

Day 18 and 19 - Rome

In Rome, we hired a taxi during the day and took a night tour bus for the night. The night tour is recommended if one has time, because the monuments are lit and look beautiful. Rome is well connected by subways and buses. If one has time and energy one can opt for the buses and trains for the city tour. We didn't have time and we had senior citizens with us who had a tough time walking in the sun. So the taxi was our best bet. However, taxis cannot go too close to the monuments, so walking cannot be avoided. Rome should be avoided in summer if one wants to enjoy the historic monuments in detail with time. 

Colosseum

River Tiber 

Places of interest in Rome

Day 20 - Train to Naples, Italy from Rome

There are trains to Naples every 1 hour from Rome central. It is a short 1-hour journey. Our hotel in Naples was just within walking distance from the Naples station. Again, the heat actually drained us out and we explored a lot less than we planned to in Naples.

Day 21 - Naples

Places of interest near Naples

Places of interest in Naples

Mount Vesuvius from Naples Bay

Day 22 - Train to Pompei, Italy from Naples

Our first destination from Naples was Pompeii and Vesuvius. The Railway station for the train to Pompeii was very close to our hotel. At Pompeii station, the archaeological site was also within walking distance. The Archaeological park is big and yes gets difficult in hot weather. If I had known, I would have never planned a summer trip.

Mount Vesuvius from Pompeii

Places of interest in Pompeii

Day 22 - Bus to Mount Vesuvius from Pompeii

There are buses that take tourists to mount vesuvius from Pompeii and bring them back to Pompeii station. There is a short trek to the volcano's caldera. The soil is very soft and wearing shoes is a must. I had sandals on and it kept getting stuck in the sand and slowed me down both the climb up and down. My parents skipped the trek.

Caldera of Mount Vesuvius

Day 22 - Train to Naples from Pompeii

Day 23 - Ferry to Ischia, Italy from Naples

Naples Port was also within walking distance from our hotel. We didn't quite plan where to go but saw a ferry to Ischia and we bought the tickets.

Places of interest in Ischia

Arogonese Castle Island, Ischia

Day 24 - Ferry to Capri, Italy from Naples

We took the ferry to Capri from Naples Port on the 24th day. From Capri, we took a Ferry to Amalfi. We just spent a few hours in Amalfi. Most of the places of interest in Amalfi are near the port. From Amalfi, we took a ferry to Salerno. From Salerno, we took a train back to Naples.

Places of interest in Capri

Capri boat ride

Day 25 - Ferry to Amalfi, Italy from Capri

Main Cities of Interest in Amalfi Coastline

Places of interest in Amalfi

Amalfi Coastline

Day 26 - Train to Messina, Italy from Naples

Strait of Messina

On the 26th day, we took the train to Messina. At the Messina strait, the train was taken across in a train ferry, something I had witnessed for the first time. At Villa San Giovanni, the train tracks are connected with the tracks on a ferry. The train is then moved onto the ferry. The passengers can go to the ferry deck if they choose. The ferry sails the train across to Messina port, where the tracks are connected back to the land tracks and it travels to the Messina railway station, about 10 minutes away. Our hotel was very close to Messina Duomo which is very close to Messina Central. There are trams and buses well connected to every part of Messina. We took a bus from the station to our bed and breakfast which looked like a luxury guest house.

Places of interest near Messina

Basilica Cattedrale Di Santa Maria Assunta in Old Town Messina

Places of interest in Messina

Places of interest in Messina's old town 

Day 27 - Train to Taormina, Italy from Messina

We took a train to Taormina. Then a taxi from the Taormina station to reach the old city of Taormina. The ride was around 45 minutes. The old town is located on a hilltop. Mount Etna can be seen clearly from the Taormina amphitheater.

Places of interest in Sicily

Places of interest in Taormina

Duomo di Taormina

Mount Etna seen from Taormina Amphitheatre

Ionian Sea

Day 28 - Train to Palermo Italy from Messina

On the 28th day, we took the train to Palermo. We reached at midnight and I was a little scared considering Sicily did not have a very good reputation in terms of the mafia. However, it seemed more a movie thing, cause it turned out all fine. There were taxis outside the station and we got to our bed and breakfast safe and sound. The interesting part was the Villa apartment was gated and there were several gates to pass through. Even the lift up was locked and the owner of the luxury BnB reminded me of a character from Godfather in the way he dressed and spoke :)

Day 29 - Car to Segeste and Erice from Palermo

The owner of the Villa arranged for a car for us to travel to Segeste and Erice the next day. The driver too reminded me of a character from Godfather. Perhaps it was the accent and the way he dressed. He was a friendly guy and showed us around with patience and guided us well. I loved Erice and if I had more time would have planned a stay there. Just the right kind of place to have a quiet vacation - close to the sea and historic heritage.

Places of interest in Calatafimi - Segesta 

Greek Temple in Segesta

Amphitheatre in Segesta

Places of interest in Erice

Chiesa Matrice, Erice

Castle of Venus, Erice

Monte Cofano Natural Reserve on the Tyrrhenian Sea

Day 30 - Flight to Milan from Palermo. Milan to Lake Como by train.

There are trains every few minutes to Como from Milan Centrale. It took us about 45 minutes. The Como station is about a 15-minute walk from the waterfront and the Duomo. Buses are running from the station to places of interest at regular intervals too.

Duomo Di Como

Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta

Como Lake Front

Day 31 - Flight to Delhi from Milan

We flew back to Delhi from Milan via Kuwait. In 30 days we traveled to three countries, and 12 cities and traveled by air, car, train, bus, and ferry. We spent just about 4 lakhs for three for the 30-day trip including transportation, food, and entry tickets wherever required. We stayed in good hotels in most places. Internal travel and accommodation are not very expensive in Europe. The big number is the flight from India to Italy but luckily we got a pretty inexpensive deal of 35K two-way per person. Usually, I book flight tickets about 4 months before travel and start my Visa processing soon after booking tickets. Most of the hotels we booked for 4+ starred bed and breakfast and we did get some pretty good deals and pretty good hotels. Only Mestre stay turned out a bad choice. I would suggest staying in Venice instead of Mestre.

Milan from Flight

Kuwait from flight