A Peripatetic In The Land Of High Passes

The Pangong Tso (Tso in the local language, Bodhi, or Ladakhi means lake)

ROUTE MAP OF LADAKH

LOCATION

Country: India

Union Territory: Ladakh

MAIN CITIES AND TOWNS (one must be acquainted with them to plan the itinerary)

1. Delhi, the Capital of India

2. Srinagar, Capital of Jammu and Kashmir

3. Leh, Capital of Ladakh

4. Chandigarh

5. Shimla

6. Manali

HOW TO REACH 

One can plan an itinerary of various combinations of flight, train, bus, personal/Hired vehicle, or treks.

By road

The route is marked on the map above.

Route 1. Basing Delhi as a starting point one can take the route via Manali, Keylong, and Sarchu to Leh.

Delhi to Manali: 574 Kms approx. takes anywhere between 9 hours, depending on the road condition.

Manali to Leh: 473 Km approx takes around 13 hrs, depending on the road conditions.

It is advisable to break the journey once at Manali and then at Sarchu.

Route 2: Basing Delhi as the starting point one can take a route via Chandigarh, Jammu, Srinagar, and Kargil to Leh

Delhi to Srinagar: 860 km and takes about 14 hrs in the best conditions.

Srinagar to Kargil: 204 Kms

Kargil to Leh: 234 Kms

It is advisable to break the journey once at Srinagar and then at Kargil.

By flight

The various airports on this route are:

1. Delhi (DEL) (International Airport)

2. Chandigarh Airport (IXC)

3. Jammu Airport (IXJ)

4. Srinagar Airport (SXR)

5. Shimla airport (SLV)

6. Kullu-Manali airport (KUU)

7. Leh Airport (IXL)

View of the Himalayas from the airplane on the way to Leh

I traveled to Leh via flight from Delhi and took me about an hour. From the airport, I joined two Japanese co-passengers to share a room at a local homestay. I was told it was one of the oldest homestays in Leh. Honestly, it wasn't great but it cost me just a couple 100 rupees and I was shocked that one could find accommodation for this price. I moved to a hotel the next day. It was not expensive either.

View of Leh Palace from the terrace of Old Ladakh Guest House

One word of caution: When traveling directly to Leh by flight it is advisable that one spends the first day at rest,  getting acclimatized to the altitude and pressure change. Leh is at an altitude of 3500 m (11500 ft) above sea level and hence lower oxygen level which causes breathlessness and altitude sickness that lasts for a few hours. There are healthcare workers who provide the required assistance in case of severe health issues. People with heart conditions and pressure problems should take the required precautionary measures. 

My Japanese roommates went out right after keeping their bags at the homestay for a city tour and came back pretty sick with breathing problems. They had to return back to Delhi the very next day. Hence, it is absolutely necessary to relax at the hotel on the first day and go out for site seeing only when you feel at ease.

By train
One can travel a part of the journey by train.

1. Delhi to Kalka and then the toy train to Shimla or take a bus or car to Shimla.
2. Delhi to Jammu

WEATHER and WHAT TO WEAR

Ladakh experiences extreme temperature variation. Peak summer could reach up to 35 C and peak winters can go as low as -30 C. I visited Ladakh in mid-July and stayed there till early October. The temperature was warm to pleasant. Some friends who visited in June mentioned that the weather was freezing cold at higher altitudes. Summer lasts between April and September end. Peak winter sets in around mid-November and stays till early February. The ice on the passes begins to thaw around March end.

The terrain is dry and dusty due to barren mountains and scanty rainfall. The sun can be extremely strong here. Cotton clothes with long sleeves, and a loose fit, are the most comfortable wear in this region. It is advisable to carry a warm jacket at all times cause the weather is unpredictable and it can get pretty cold even in peak summer. 

Sunscreens, sun shades, and closed shoes are absolute carry-alongs. If visiting monasteries it is preferred that one wears clothes that cover the arms and legs. No one openly objects but it is not considered respectable to expose. This dress code applies to both men and women.

WHERE TO STAY and WHAT TO EAT

There are luxury hotels to inexpensive guest houses in Leh. One can even find another traveler to share a room with. I think the minimum I spent was Rs. 300 for a room in one of the oldest guest houses in Leh and the maximum I spent was Rs. 600 at a small hotel near the city center market. Not the best rooms but good enough (according to me) for a night's stay! 

There are good restaurants and bakeries in the city center market. Leh is very small and any part of the city can be reached easily by walk. The main market was a 9-minute walk from the Old Ladakh Guest House. Later in the trip, I moved to a hotel in the market area.

Maggi was my staple diet in Ladakh for most days. Day 1 Dinner Maggi, Pineapple juice, munch, and orange wafer. It was 14th August and 'Indian Summer' was the perfect book to start that night.."When midnight struck in Delhi on the night of 14 August 1947, a new, free Indian nation was born. In London, the time was 8:30 p.m. The world's capital would enjoy another hour or two of a warm summer evening before the sun literally and finally set on the British Empire"

ACTIVITIES 

As mentioned above, Leh is quite small and one can easily access the main points of interest on foot. There are no public transportation facilities. At least there were none when I visited in 2012.

There are travel agents who can arrange vehicles for your sightseeing tours. One can also rent Motorcycles and cycles to travel around.

Main activities in the region, meditation at meditation centers, visiting monasteries, trekking, sightseeing trips to the lakes, and river rafting.

PLACES TO VISIT

Lakes

1. Pangong Tso - It takes almost a day to visit Pangong Tso from Leh and back but there are options to stay at Dhaba camp on the bank of Pangong and home stays at Spangmik Village but the availability is not guaranteed and the facilities are very basic. 

I went on a day trip to Pangong Tso with a group of local tourists on a jeep arranged by a local travel agent. We did not stay back, since we had plans to head for Nubra Valley the next day.

About to reach Pangong Tso

2. Tso Moriri - Traveling to Tsomoriri also takes an entire day if one wishes to come back to Leh but there are homestay options at Korzok village near the lake. Visit to Tso Moriri was also a day trip on a jeep. 

Tso (Lake) Moriri 

Valleys in Ladakh

1. SURU and ZANSKAR VALLEY
2. SHYOK and NUBRA VALLEY
3. DRAS and MUSHKOH VALLEY
4. INDUS VALLEY : 

The Indus Valley gets its name from the River Indus that flows through this region. The main attractions here are:

INDUS VALLEY ROUTE MAP

Confluence of Zanskar and Indus. In winter this gets frozen and adventure seekers and local travelers walk on the frozen river to Zanskar Valley down south. The trek is called Chaadar (sheet - sheet of ice) Trek

Day 1

Leh

The first day was spent resting, reading, and sightseeing from the terrace at the guest house. Leh is the administrative capital of Ladakh and the biggest city in the region. Most people base their trips at Leh. Major attractions in Leh include the Leh Palace and Shanti Stupa. 

On the way to Leh Palace

Day 2

Leh Palace was hardly a 5-minute walk from the guest house we were staying at. We went there on the second day. One can see the mud houses of Leh from the top floors of the Palace. From Leh Palace, I went to the local market and shopped for some handicrafts and also visited the museum. The Shanti Stupa was not very close, so I took a ride to it. From there, we headed back to the guest house. We were still getting acclimatized and hence were getting out of breath after walking a short distance.

View of Leh from Leh Palace

Shanti Stupa

Day 3

On the third day, we felt a lot better and decided to head for the monasteries. We booked a vehicle through a local travel agent we met in the market the previous day. He came along to guide us through the trip. He did tell us that there would be a lot of walking and we should proceed only if we felt fit and fine.  We were so fascinated by the monasteries and their architecture, that altitude sickness took a leave of us. We walked to every nook and corner of the monasteries which surprised the guide. He said most visitors just click a few photographs and head back, we were one of the few who went to every single room, floor, and corner of all the monasteries, and palaces we visited.

To the southeast of Leh are Shey, Stok, Thikse, Stakna, and Hemis monasteries. It might take a few hours to a whole day to cover this stretch depending on how enthusiastic one is to explore every nook and corner of the monasteries. 

We started early at 5:00 a.m. and reached Thiksey Monastery around 5:30 a.m. where the monks start the morning prayers by blowing long Tibetan horns/trumpets called Rag-dung

The travel distance from Leh City center is just 1 hr 35 mins but we spent the entire day exploring the palaces and monasteries and returned pretty late in the evening after participating in the evening prayers at the Hemis

The Shey Palace

The Thiksey Monastery

The Stakna Monastery

The Hemis Monastery

The Stok Monastery

Day 4

On the fourth day, we visited the monasteries on the northwest side of Leh, which include, Spituk, Alchi, Lamayuru, Likir, and Basgo monasteries among many others. My special mention would be Alchi. Beautiful wood carvings and amazing wall paintings adorn this gompa. On the way to the North West stretch, one may also visit the Nanak sahib Gurudwara which is considered a very sacred pilgrimage shrine for the Sikhs. The drive itself is scenic and it often feels like a painted landscape.

We started the day earlier on the fourth day and returned a lot later as well. Must Mention Lamayuru and Alchi took my breath away:)

5:00 a.m. morning prayer at Spituk Monastery

Flower offerings at Spituk Monastery

The Spituk Monastery

The Basgo Monastery

The Lamayuru Monastery

On the way to Lamuyuru, there is a stretch of rough badlands called Moonland

There is a stretch of land on NH1 called the Magnetic Hill where vehicles get pulled against gravitation. I was not convinced but I guess it happens cause everyone there said so :)

India's northernmost highway NH 1

The Likir Monastery

Gurudwara Patthar Sahib at 12000 ft above sea level is one of the highest Gurudwaras in the world

A Short Tryst With The Mountains

Where Journeys end, stories begin

During a trek to a remote, mystic monastery, I stopped over for a month at a tiny village in Zanskar Valley. The hamlet, felt like the last point on earth, beyond which lay miles and miles of barren mountains - majestic, immovable, invincible yet ever changing! Once in a while random adventure seekers trekked across them, enduring all the adversities, of a rough terrain inhabited by snow leopards, for that ineffable, glorious feeling of having triumphed over the untamed.  Aware of my limitations, I contended myself by capturing the breathtaking experience in my camera.

Some days, the mountains were cloaked behind layers of cottony clouds waiting to reveal well-kept secrets. Some days, the peaks glistened with fresh dust of snow while romancing the sunrays kissing them. Some days, they looked dry, barren and lifeless as if in mourning. Yet other days, they looked like a surreal painting on a bright blue canvas.  The mountain-scape kept changing, mysterious, intimidating to sublime and alluring.

The mountains spoke a story of change.  Change, they say is inevitable but not everlasting. It brings with it the apprehension of letting go the known yet it gives the thrill of discovering the unknown.

Alice In Ladakh

“While nature can mystify, architecture can stir the soul”

A few years back, in my process to heal after a certain personal setback, I had decided to hit the road for a solo soul search. The lone trail led me to the mystical ‘land of passes’. What began as a sudden whim, eventually, turned into a magical journey of amazing discoveries.

Some wise soul had once said, “you don’t need magic to disappear; all you need is a destination”. Ladakh is one such thaumaturgic destination.

Traveling and healing are connected in a weird way. Traveling may not be a panacea but it does bring positive changes in perspectives. A place as beautiful as Ladakh, with its many untouched, unexplored, ethereal, exotic locales, possesses the magical charm to heal and rejuvenate.  Its natural beauty is beyond comprehension; almost a painting on a life-size canvas and as amazing is its architectural splendor.

Being an architect, monasteries and particularly their architecture, caught my attention.  Whether it was the secluded, spiritual cave temples of Zanskar or the colorful, vibrant gompas of Indus or the tall statues of Nubra, Ladakh revealed a rich treasure trove of art and architecture. The breathtaking clay and wooden edifices ensconced amidst the rugged Himalayan terrains and gorgeous, clear azure sky presented a surreal spectacle hard to find anywhere else on earth (and I literally mean it).

….

“There is a place. Like no place on Earth. A land full of wonder, mystery, and danger!” said the maddest Hatter

“That is impossible” Alice replied flaunting her 7 and a half-year-old attitude.

“Only if you believe it is! Every adventure requires a first step” snubbed back the hatter.

…..

If I am Alice, Ladakh is my wonderland. Fairy tales do come true - Where Journeys end, stories begin.

Ladakh - A Comprehensive Itinerary

This is a suggested itinerary for a comprehensive Ladakh Trip.

Day 1. Fly from Delhi to Leh (suggested take an evening flight) One must rest for at least a day to get acclimatized to the pressure change. An evening flight will save some time.
Day 2. Explore Leh. Visit the Leh Palace and the Shanti Stupa.
Day 3. Visit the southern monasteries (Stakna, Hemis, etc)
Day 4. Visit the northern monasteries (Alchi, Lamayuru, Likir, etc)
Day 5. Visit Pangong Tso (camp there) or head for Nubra.
Day 6. Visit Nubra Valley. (Diskit, Hunder)
Day 7. Visit Sumer, Panamik and Yarab Tso in Nubra. Then back to Leh.
Day 8. Visit Tso Moriri (camp there) or come back to Leh
Day 9. Visit Tso Kar at Salt Lake Valley. if interested you can stay an additional day and visit Puga Valley.
Day 10. Back to Leh. Shop. Rest.
Day 11. Start for Zanskar Valley. On the way visit Champa monastery near Kargil
Day 12. Explore Zanskar Valley. (Karsha, Zangla etc)
Day 13. Explore Zanskar (Zonkhal, Shani etc)
Day 14. Head for Phuktal monastery
Day 15. Trek to Phuktal
Day 16. Head back from Phuktal
Day 17. Reach Padum.
Day 18. Start for Srinagar. Halt at  Drass. If interested in treks stay back a few days.
Day 19. Stay at Sonamarg
Day 20. Arrive at Srinagar.
Day 21. Explore Srinagar. If you wish to explore the Kashmir Region, you might need to stay a few more days.)
Day 22. Fly back to Delhi.

This is an intensive schedule for a complete tour of Ladakh and a part of Kashmir.

On The Way To The World's Highest Battlefield

On the way to Nubra - Zaniskari or Zanskari are an endangered species of wild horses/pony breed

Shyok and Nubra Valley

SHYOK VALLEY is the region fed by the river Shyok and NUBRA VALLEY is the region fed by the Siachen River.

LOCATION

Country: India
Union Territory: Ladakh

MAIN CITIES AND TOWNS (one must be acquainted with them to plan the itinerary)

1. Delhi, the Capital of India
2. Leh, Capital of Ladakh
3. Diskit, the main town in Nubra Valley

HOW TO REACH

The distance from Leh to Diskit is around 125 km.

From Leh, one can hire a private taxi or a shared taxi. The taxi can be arranged by a local travel agent or one can go to the taxi stand near the main bus terminus. Privately hired vehicles may charge around Rs. 7000 or more. If shared the fare gets divided among the passengers.

There are buses that travel between Leh and Diskit but they are usually quite irregular and don't run every day. One must visit the bus terminus to inquire about the bus timings. Traveling by bus is the cheapest option and the fare is pretty nominal.

One can even hire motorbikes or simply trek.

To check the various options to reach Leh and Srinagar Click Here

WEATHER and WHAT TO WEAR

Summers are warm during the Day (20-30 C) and cold at night (5-15 C). I was there in the month of August. I needed some light warm clothes for the day. On warmer days cotton wear is the best. In the evenings it can get pretty cold and a jacket or a pullover is essential. It is a dry, dusty region and the sun can be pretty strong, therefore, cotton clothes are best suited for Ladakh. Full sleeves, long pants, a stole to cover the head, and woolen jackets for the evenings are good add-ons. Also, monasteries prefer that visitors cover their legs and arms. I was told by a local that short dresses are considered disrespectful in this region, especially when visiting the gompas (monasteries). Carrying sunshades and sunscreens is strongly advised. Also, covered shoes are a must. My feet were literally charred in my three-month stay there. Thanks to the open sandals. The terrain is rough and hence sneakers are the best option.

BEST TIME TO VISIT

Summer is the best time to visit Nubra. In winter the passes get blocked by snow making travel extremely difficult. To reach Nubra one has to cross the Khardung La pass.

May through October is a fairly good time to visit Nubra Valley.

WHERE TO STAY and WHAT TO EAT

Nubra Valley has options for homestays and the rent is pretty inexpensive. There are decent hotels and camping sites as well in Diskit, Hunder, and Sumer.

Dhabas and restaurants are also available in the region with decent food.

ACTIVITIES

Trekking, camping, biking, camel rides, and visiting monasteries are the main activities there.

PLACES TO VISIT 

1. Diskit

Maitreya Buddha near Diskit Monastery

2. Sumer

The Samstanling Monastery

3. Hundar

Double-humped camel or Bactrian Camel ride (a little overrated in my opinion but still an experience - On second thought, it really depends on how comfortable one is on a camel. I wasn't)

4. Yarab Tso Lake
Most people miss out on this lake since it's almost hidden and one has to take a short trek to reach but it is worth the effort. On the way to Panamik, one must take the unpaved dusty road to the left just before entering Panamik. At the end of the road, there is a trek route. Takes around 20- 30 minutes to reach the lake.

5. Panamik (hot water spring)
Well! I guess, it can be skipped if time is limited. The springs are not that great but the route is quite scenic. I enjoyed the drive.

Dust storm on the way to Panamik

6. China border, Siachen glacier

The Siachen glacier is to the north of Panamik, almost about 45 km. Foreigners are not allowed to travel beyond the Panamik village. It is considered one of the highest battlefields in the world at 18000 ft above sea level. One requires special passes to visit this area.

Back to Ladakh

A Summer Sojourn In Suru And Zanskar Valley

THE DURUNG DURUNG GLACIER PHOTOGRAPHED FROM PENZI LA. In the local language, La means a pass (The photograph was clicked in the month of August)

THE SURU AND ZANSKAR VALLEY ROUTE MAP
This region gets its name from the Zanskar range of the Great Himalayas and the Suru river

SURU VALLEY is the region north of the Penzi La / Pensi La pass and ZANSKAR VALLEY  is the region south of the Penzi La pass.

LOCATION

Country: India
Union Territory: Ladakh

MAIN CITIES AND TOWNS (one must be acquainted with them to plan the itinerary)

1. Delhi, the Capital of India
2. Leh, Capital of Ladakh
3. Srinagar, Capital of Jammu and Kashmir
4. Kargil, the main junction connecting Srinagar on the west, Leh on the east, and Padum on the south
5. Padum, the administrative center of Zanskar Valley

HOW TO REACH

Route 1:

A direct flight from Delhi to Leh takes around an hour. The ticket prices range from Rs. 5000 to anywhere around Rs. 30,000 (one way) depending on the season (the fares noted here are pre-COVID). (Please note: costs would have changed since I traveled a few years back).

From Leh, one can hire a private taxi or a shared taxi. The taxi can be arranged by a local travel agent or one can go to the taxi stand near the main bus terminus. The shared taxis leave pretty early in the morning around 2:30 am. It is almost an 18-hour journey via Kargil. There are two Taxi unions in this region, hence, there might be a need to change vehicles at Kargil.  The Taxi fare varies for local tourists, Indian tourists from other states, and foreign tourists. If you are lucky you can get the local price that's around Rs. 1500 - Rs. 2000. Hiring a private vehicle would definitely amount to at least 5 times that and that's the fare in 2012. There may have been a price hike since then.

There are buses that travel between Leh and Kargil and Leh and Padum but they are irregular and don't run every day. One must visit the bus terminus to inquire about the bus timings. Traveling by bus is the cheapest option and the fares are quite nominal.

For avid trekkers, there are many trekking routes to Zanskar.

1.Trek route from Lamayuru to Padum. (There is a winter trek on the river Zanskar called the Chader trek that starts from Lamayuru and ends at Padum).

2. Trek route from Darcha to Padum 

3. And finally one can just follow the road. It will surely lead to someplace amazing :)

Route 2:

Direct flight to Srinagar from Delhi. Take a taxi, private car, or bus to Padum Via Kargil. 

To check the various options to reach Leh and Srinagar Click Here

WEATHER and WHAT TO WEAR

My tanned feet after a month

Summers are warm during the Day (20-30 C) and cold at night (5-15 C). I was there in the months of August, September, and early October. I needed some light warm clothes for the day. On warmer days cotton wear is the best. In the evenings it would get pretty cold and a jacket or a pullover was a must. It is very dusty and the sun can be pretty strong, so cotton clothes are best suited for the region, with full sleeves, long pants, a stole to cover the head, and a woolen jacket for the evenings. Also, monasteries prefer the legs and arms covered. The nuns and monks will not object openly but I was told by a local that short dresses are considered disrespectful in this region, especially when visiting the gompas (monasteries). Carrying sunshades and sunscreens is strongly advised. Wear covered shoes. The terrain is rough and hence sneakers are the best option.

BEST TIME TO VISIT

Summer is the best time to visit Zanskar. In winter the passes are blocked by snow, thus making traveling extremely difficult, rather impossible. The only way to reach Padum in winter is through the Chadar trek on the frozen Zanskar River starting from Lamayuru. If you are the adventurous kind, I heard this trek is quite a thriller:) 

May through early October is fairly a good time to visit Zanskar.

WHERE TO STAY and WHAT TO EAT

Zanskar Valley has options for homestays and the rent is pretty nominal. They provide food as well. The toilet facilities are not the best since they use primitive local toilets but some guest houses and homestays are building proper toilets these days. There is also the option of staying at the monasteries if it is just for a day. The monasteries do not ask for any pay but one can always donate whatever they wish. The monks and nuns are extremely hospitable.

The staple diet there is Thupka (a kind of local pasta) and noodles but rice and lentils are also available. There are no restaurants in the region except in Padum. Options for food are very limited.

ACTIVITIES

If you have some time to spare, about a month or two or more, you can volunteer to teach in a local school or the monasteries. The schools need teachers for English, Hindi, Maths, and Science. There is no formal or official application process. One can just go there and offer to teach.  One can also contact organizations like Jamyang and volunteer through them.

Trekking, camping, and river rafting are the main activities there. However, I am not sure how safe it is! The rapids in the Zanskar River range between grades 1 to 5. Probably, if one is a seasoned rafter, knows swimming, and follows all safety protocols, it shouldn't be unsafe.

PLACES TO VISIT

 1. Zongkhul Monastery: One of the oldest and most secluded monasteries in Zanskar Valley. A must-visit. It reminded me of the sky caves in Nepal.

The route to Zongkhul is amazingly beautiful!

Zongkhul Monastery

2. Karsha Monastery: It is the biggest monastery in Zanskar but I did not get the opportunity to visit it.

3. Phuktal Monastery: One of the most spectacular Monasteries in this Valley. It takes a couple of days to trek to reach Phuktal. From Padum one can take a vehicle to the village at Reru (the road ends there). From Reru village, it's a one to two-day trek (with a break) depending on the individual's stamina.

4. Shani Monastery: This is one of the oldest monasteries in Zanskar and has many old statues, wooden carvings, and relics. It can be visited on the way to Zongkhul.

5. Rangdum Monastery: This monastery can be visited on its way to Padum. It is guarded by military forces because of a terrorist attack a few years back.

6. Stongdey Monastery: The second largest monastery in the region. It rests high on the hill and I did not have the opportunity to visit it.

7. Zangla: I stayed at the Zangla Nunnery for 5 weeks and taught the little nuns Maths, Hindi, and English. Unfortunately, 5 weeks were not sufficient to teach much. If there are people who have the time to devout for at least a month and a half please do contact me. The experience cannot be described in words. It has to be felt!

Volunteers come each year to teach them through various NGOs and Buddhist organizations but there is no coordination. There are times these children get a teacher for a month and then have no one for the next few months. Whatever they learn is forgotten and the next volunteer has to start fresh.  A few of us are trying to coordinate interested enthusiasts who have the zeal to give these children some valuable time. They are bright kids and would do wonders if well-guided. I must mention that 'It' is not a religious initiative. The idea is 'solely' to 'teach' the kids in this region, where there is a dearth of good well-informed teachers. Please Let me know if you wish to contribute your 'time'! You can email me through the form on the home page. Thanks :)

The occupation of the villagers here is agriculture. I was there during the wheat harvesting season and got the opportunity to see the entire process. The valley echoes the Zanskari harvest songs around this time of the year. 

The Zangla Palace

The Zangla Nunnery

From the banks of the Zanskar river

Hot springs (it wasn't quite hot and it's more like a mud sauna in the open :) The locals go there to take a dip as they believe this water has medicinal value and cures diseases.

THE DURUNG DURUNG GLACIER PHOTOGRAPHED FROM PENZI LA (on my way back in the first week of October)

Back to Ladakh