A Walk On The Bridge That Breathes In Riwai

This small village, 90 km south of Shillong, the capital of Meghalaya, came into prominence when a travel channel voted it the cleanest village in India. However, our main interest was the living root bridge connecting the villages of Riwai and Nohwet, very close to Mawlynnong. Root bridges are unique to the state of Meghalaya and are not seen in any other part of the country—perhaps not even anywhere else in the world.

It took us about three hours to reach Mawlynnong from Shillong. The drive usually takes around two hours, but we couldn't resist stopping for photo breaks along the way. It was a beautiful March morning, with perfect weather and an absolutely picturesque route. Many shades of green flanked both sides of the road for miles and miles until we arrived at a small stream.

Inspired by John Keats… lingering along streams of rushing water in the heart of pristine nature — blue skies, virescent trees, and a cool breeze — echoed our hearty laughter. :) :P

(Okay, that was a terrible effort, and I hope Keats didn’t turn in his grave. I owe him an apology.) :P

The loveliness of the tranquil ambience cannot truly be captured in photographs. It must be experienced, smelt, and felt — a painter’s paradise, a poet’s muse, a writer’s haven, a singer’s mood.

Had we brought camping equipment, this would have been the perfect place to pitch a tent for the night. I’m not sure if it’s safe after dark, but if camping is allowed, I would surely try it next time.

The multi-purpose cane basket. Here is an eco-friendly, innovative trash cone — isn’t it cute? Mawlynnong and Riwai are eco-tourism community ventures, and they use only natural, biodegradable materials for trash bins everywhere.

Off we went on the trail to the Living Root Bridge. As the name clearly implies, a living root bridge is an actual living bridge. :) It is formed from the roots of a living tree of the species Ficus elastica — the banyan fig, in this case.

To guide the tree’s roots in the right direction, betel nut trunks are used. The trunks are sliced down the middle and hollowed out to create root-guiding channels. The thin, tender roots of the ficus tree are led through these hollowed sections, preventing them from fanning out and allowing them to grow straight across. When they reach the other side of the river, they are rooted back into the soil.

Over time, layers of roots intertwine to form a strong, sturdy bridge capable of carrying a considerable amount of weight. Once the structure becomes very strong, stone slabs are placed on top to create a smoother walkway.

It is said that these bridges can last for hundreds of years, depending on the health of the mother tree. Since new roots keep growing, the bridge literally regenerates whenever older roots or trees die. Over the years, its strength increases as more layers of roots intertwine.

Of course, the villagers maintain them carefully and are prompt with repairs, since these bridges are often their only way to commute.

These bridges are often the only means of connecting the small interior villages of Meghalaya that do not have road access. The trail to the Riwai Bridge is not too steep, slimy, or narrow compared to many of the others.

Khasi men and women washing clothes along the beautiful stream. The same cane baskets are used to carry the clothes.

A precarious little stretch of rocky trail. 

A typical bamboo and cane hut. Mawlynnong has homestays and guest houses for visitors. I think one must stay overnight to experience the place better, since there are a couple of waterfalls and other nature trails that can be enjoyed at leisure rather than during a hurried and tiring day trip. Definitely a treat for those who enjoy a little rustic, non-city atmosphere.

A tall bamboo tower leads to a sky-view shelter. The structure is at least 10–12 meters tall and made entirely of bamboo, even the ties and joints. Initially, I was a bit scared, but once I began to trust the strength of the construction, I relaxed. The view from the top was spectacular. The feeling of being in a really high tree house could be nothing less than amazing.

There are even tree houses for visitors to stay in. I’m not sure how brave I’ll be to perch up that high for a night, but I shall give it a try next time.

There are no restaurants in the village. The only options are homemade food and fruits offered by the villagers. We tried some new types of berries — above: Shophie, and below: Shohsang.

These berries looked quite tempting, but… but… one bite and I literally jumped. It was extremely sour! I must have mimicked one of Jim Carrey’s favorite antics as an uncontrollable tickle ran through my entire body. :P

That’s the best way I can describe the degree of sourness.

We didn’t stay back for the night, as we had plans to go to Sohra for the waterfalls. But I made a promise to myself — next time I will carry a good, fat book and stay there until I finish reading it. Fresh air and a good book should be quite relaxing. I think I should take Roots. :)

The Untouched Jaintia Hills

From Tyrshi Falls, Jowai

The Jaintia Hills lie on the eastern side of Meghalaya. Jowai is the official headquarters of West Jaintia Hills and Khliehriat is the official headquarters of East Jaintia Hills. Jaintia Hills were a part of the Jaintia Kingdom. The Greater Jaintia Kindom spread across parts of the present-day, states of Meghalaya, and Assam in India and the present-day state of Sylhet in Bangladesh. Its winter capital was Jaintapura, in present-day Bangladesh, and its Summer capital was in Nartiang, present-day India. Later in 630 AD Jaintia king Raja Guhak (as per Wikipedia) divided the kingdom among his three sons - Jaintia Kingdom (present-day Meghalaya and Assam) went to Jayantak, Gour Kingdom (Northern Sylhet in Bangladesh) went to Gurak and Laur Kindom (another part of present-day Sylhet) went to Ladduk. 

What was the history of the Jaintia tribes is a bit of a contradiction. Some say they were an Austroasiatic tribe of Mon-Khmer Origins, who traveled to India from East Asia or South East Asia. Some say they were the origins of present-day Cachar or present-day Sylhet. I lean towards the former version considering the features and cultures of the Jaintias. 

As per some historians, a group of Mon-Khmer tribes traveled to the Kopilli Valley, from Tonquin (a region in North Vietnam) Via Yunan (a southwestern province of China), and Myanmar. They settled in the Kopilli Valley fed by the Kopili River. Later after the Indo-Aryan rulers took over this region under their reign and established the Pragjyotish Kingdom, the tribe moved west and north. Eventually, they settled in the region known as the Jaintia Hills.

The migration of Mon-Khmers from Tonquin to Kopilli Valley

The Kopili River Valley

The Jaintia kingdom went through many changes and rulers till the Britishers annexed it in 1835. One of the first known rulers of Jaintias was queen Urmi Rani. Jaintias are Matrilineal like the Khasis and Garos of Meghalaya. As the term suggests, the women carry forward the lineage, the surnames, and the inheritance. The youngest daughter of the family inherits the property. If the youngest daughter dies or is disowned, the immediate elder daughter inherits the property, and then her youngest daughter carries forward the inheritance. If there are no daughters in the family, the mother's youngest sister inherits the property and it continues in the same order. After marriage, the men move into the bride's family. Ancient Jaintia Kindom was ruled by Queen Monarchs. Women were powerful and highly respected.

Medieval Kingdoms of North Eastern India

The Jaintia matrilineal traditions continue even to the present day. Some Jaintias today are converted Christians and Muslims and some follow the Hindu way of living but the indigenous Jaintias worshipped nature their religion is called Niamtre and they follow three cardinal principals, Kamai yeh hok, tipbru tipblai, and tipkur tipkha which signify, honest living and livelihood, fulfilling duties for fellow humans, and all living beings, respect for the family.

Ruins of Jaintia KIngdom in Jaintapur in Bangladesh (Source: Wikipedia)

Jaintia Hills is a region still not destroyed by human activities. It is endowed with lush green vegetation, beautiful waterfalls, and crystal clear-water rivers. Some famous points of interest are Tyrshi Waterfall, Nartiang monoliths, Umngot River, and Thlu Amwi Waterfall among others.

Places of interest in Jaintia Hills

Tyrshi waterfall (picture source Wikipedia)

Nartiang Monoliths (Picture source wikipedia). These monoliths were erected by Jaintia rulers in honor of their predecessors. This collection of monoliths is perhaps the largest collection in any one place

Thlumuwi Waterfall (Picture source Wikipedia) This falls is famous for a stone footbridge built by the Jaintia rulers 

Umngot River (Picture source Wikipedia). The Umngot or Dawki River is famous for being one of the cleanest rivers in India

A Peripatetic In The Land Of High Passes

The Pangong Tso (Tso in the local language, Bodhi, or Ladakhi means lake)

ROUTE MAP OF LADAKH

LOCATION

Country: India

Union Territory: Ladakh

MAIN CITIES AND TOWNS (one must be acquainted with them to plan the itinerary)

1. Delhi, the Capital of India

2. Srinagar, Capital of Jammu and Kashmir

3. Leh, Capital of Ladakh

4. Chandigarh

5. Shimla

6. Manali

HOW TO REACH 

One can plan an itinerary of various combinations of flight, train, bus, personal/Hired vehicle, or treks.

By road

The route is marked on the map above.

Route 1. Basing Delhi as a starting point one can take the route via Manali, Keylong, and Sarchu to Leh.

Delhi to Manali: 574 Kms approx. takes anywhere between 9 hours, depending on the road condition.

Manali to Leh: 473 Km approx takes around 13 hrs, depending on the road conditions.

It is advisable to break the journey once at Manali and then at Sarchu.

Route 2: Basing Delhi as the starting point one can take a route via Chandigarh, Jammu, Srinagar, and Kargil to Leh

Delhi to Srinagar: 860 km and takes about 14 hrs in the best conditions.

Srinagar to Kargil: 204 Kms

Kargil to Leh: 234 Kms

It is advisable to break the journey once at Srinagar and then at Kargil.

By flight

The various airports on this route are:

1. Delhi (DEL) (International Airport)

2. Chandigarh Airport (IXC)

3. Jammu Airport (IXJ)

4. Srinagar Airport (SXR)

5. Shimla airport (SLV)

6. Kullu-Manali airport (KUU)

7. Leh Airport (IXL)

View of the Himalayas from the airplane on the way to Leh

I traveled to Leh via flight from Delhi and took me about an hour. From the airport, I joined two Japanese co-passengers to share a room at a local homestay. I was told it was one of the oldest homestays in Leh. Honestly, it wasn't great but it cost me just a couple 100 rupees and I was shocked that one could find accommodation for this price. I moved to a hotel the next day. It was not expensive either.

View of Leh Palace from the terrace of Old Ladakh Guest House

One word of caution: When traveling directly to Leh by flight it is advisable that one spends the first day at rest,  getting acclimatized to the altitude and pressure change. Leh is at an altitude of 3500 m (11500 ft) above sea level and hence lower oxygen level which causes breathlessness and altitude sickness that lasts for a few hours. There are healthcare workers who provide the required assistance in case of severe health issues. People with heart conditions and pressure problems should take the required precautionary measures. 

My Japanese roommates went out right after keeping their bags at the homestay for a city tour and came back pretty sick with breathing problems. They had to return back to Delhi the very next day. Hence, it is absolutely necessary to relax at the hotel on the first day and go out for site seeing only when you feel at ease.

By train
One can travel a part of the journey by train.

1. Delhi to Kalka and then the toy train to Shimla or take a bus or car to Shimla.
2. Delhi to Jammu

WEATHER and WHAT TO WEAR

Ladakh experiences extreme temperature variation. Peak summer could reach up to 35 C and peak winters can go as low as -30 C. I visited Ladakh in mid-July and stayed there till early October. The temperature was warm to pleasant. Some friends who visited in June mentioned that the weather was freezing cold at higher altitudes. Summer lasts between April and September end. Peak winter sets in around mid-November and stays till early February. The ice on the passes begins to thaw around March end.

The terrain is dry and dusty due to barren mountains and scanty rainfall. The sun can be extremely strong here. Cotton clothes with long sleeves, and a loose fit, are the most comfortable wear in this region. It is advisable to carry a warm jacket at all times cause the weather is unpredictable and it can get pretty cold even in peak summer. 

Sunscreens, sun shades, and closed shoes are absolute carry-alongs. If visiting monasteries it is preferred that one wears clothes that cover the arms and legs. No one openly objects but it is not considered respectable to expose. This dress code applies to both men and women.

WHERE TO STAY and WHAT TO EAT

There are luxury hotels to inexpensive guest houses in Leh. One can even find another traveler to share a room with. I think the minimum I spent was Rs. 300 for a room in one of the oldest guest houses in Leh and the maximum I spent was Rs. 600 at a small hotel near the city center market. Not the best rooms but good enough (according to me) for a night's stay! 

There are good restaurants and bakeries in the city center market. Leh is very small and any part of the city can be reached easily by walk. The main market was a 9-minute walk from the Old Ladakh Guest House. Later in the trip, I moved to a hotel in the market area.

Maggi was my staple diet in Ladakh for most days. Day 1 Dinner Maggi, Pineapple juice, munch, and orange wafer. It was 14th August and 'Indian Summer' was the perfect book to start that night.."When midnight struck in Delhi on the night of 14 August 1947, a new, free Indian nation was born. In London, the time was 8:30 p.m. The world's capital would enjoy another hour or two of a warm summer evening before the sun literally and finally set on the British Empire"

ACTIVITIES 

As mentioned above, Leh is quite small and one can easily access the main points of interest on foot. There are no public transportation facilities. At least there were none when I visited in 2012.

There are travel agents who can arrange vehicles for your sightseeing tours. One can also rent Motorcycles and cycles to travel around.

Main activities in the region, meditation at meditation centers, visiting monasteries, trekking, sightseeing trips to the lakes, and river rafting.

PLACES TO VISIT

Lakes

1. Pangong Tso - It takes almost a day to visit Pangong Tso from Leh and back but there are options to stay at Dhaba camp on the bank of Pangong and home stays at Spangmik Village but the availability is not guaranteed and the facilities are very basic. 

I went on a day trip to Pangong Tso with a group of local tourists on a jeep arranged by a local travel agent. We did not stay back, since we had plans to head for Nubra Valley the next day.

About to reach Pangong Tso

2. Tso Moriri - Traveling to Tsomoriri also takes an entire day if one wishes to come back to Leh but there are homestay options at Korzok village near the lake. Visit to Tso Moriri was also a day trip on a jeep. 

Tso (Lake) Moriri 

Valleys in Ladakh

1. SURU and ZANSKAR VALLEY
2. SHYOK and NUBRA VALLEY
3. DRAS and MUSHKOH VALLEY
4. INDUS VALLEY : 

The Indus Valley gets its name from the River Indus that flows through this region. The main attractions here are:

INDUS VALLEY ROUTE MAP

Confluence of Zanskar and Indus. In winter this gets frozen and adventure seekers and local travelers walk on the frozen river to Zanskar Valley down south. The trek is called Chaadar (sheet - sheet of ice) Trek

Day 1

Leh

The first day was spent resting, reading, and sightseeing from the terrace at the guest house. Leh is the administrative capital of Ladakh and the biggest city in the region. Most people base their trips at Leh. Major attractions in Leh include the Leh Palace and Shanti Stupa. 

On the way to Leh Palace

Day 2

Leh Palace was hardly a 5-minute walk from the guest house we were staying at. We went there on the second day. One can see the mud houses of Leh from the top floors of the Palace. From Leh Palace, I went to the local market and shopped for some handicrafts and also visited the museum. The Shanti Stupa was not very close, so I took a ride to it. From there, we headed back to the guest house. We were still getting acclimatized and hence were getting out of breath after walking a short distance.

View of Leh from Leh Palace

Shanti Stupa

Day 3

On the third day, we felt a lot better and decided to head for the monasteries. We booked a vehicle through a local travel agent we met in the market the previous day. He came along to guide us through the trip. He did tell us that there would be a lot of walking and we should proceed only if we felt fit and fine.  We were so fascinated by the monasteries and their architecture, that altitude sickness took a leave of us. We walked to every nook and corner of the monasteries which surprised the guide. He said most visitors just click a few photographs and head back, we were one of the few who went to every single room, floor, and corner of all the monasteries, and palaces we visited.

To the southeast of Leh are Shey, Stok, Thikse, Stakna, and Hemis monasteries. It might take a few hours to a whole day to cover this stretch depending on how enthusiastic one is to explore every nook and corner of the monasteries. 

We started early at 5:00 a.m. and reached Thiksey Monastery around 5:30 a.m. where the monks start the morning prayers by blowing long Tibetan horns/trumpets called Rag-dung

The travel distance from Leh City center is just 1 hr 35 mins but we spent the entire day exploring the palaces and monasteries and returned pretty late in the evening after participating in the evening prayers at the Hemis

The Shey Palace

The Thiksey Monastery

The Stakna Monastery

The Hemis Monastery

The Stok Monastery

Day 4

On the fourth day, we visited the monasteries on the northwest side of Leh, which include, Spituk, Alchi, Lamayuru, Likir, and Basgo monasteries among many others. My special mention would be Alchi. Beautiful wood carvings and amazing wall paintings adorn this gompa. On the way to the North West stretch, one may also visit the Nanak sahib Gurudwara which is considered a very sacred pilgrimage shrine for the Sikhs. The drive itself is scenic and it often feels like a painted landscape.

We started the day earlier on the fourth day and returned a lot later as well. Must Mention Lamayuru and Alchi took my breath away:)

5:00 a.m. morning prayer at Spituk Monastery

Flower offerings at Spituk Monastery

The Spituk Monastery

The Basgo Monastery

The Lamayuru Monastery

On the way to Lamuyuru, there is a stretch of rough badlands called Moonland

There is a stretch of land on NH1 called the Magnetic Hill where vehicles get pulled against gravitation. I was not convinced but I guess it happens cause everyone there said so :)

India's northernmost highway NH 1

The Likir Monastery

Gurudwara Patthar Sahib at 12000 ft above sea level is one of the highest Gurudwaras in the world