A Walk On The Bridge That Breathes In Riwai

This small village, 90 km south of Shillong, the capital of Meghalaya, came into prominence when a travel channel voted it the cleanest village in India. However, our main interest was the living root bridge connecting the villages of Riwai and Nohwet, very close to Mawlynnong. Root bridges are unique to the state of Meghalaya and are not seen in any other part of the country—perhaps not even anywhere else in the world.

It took us about three hours to reach Mawlynnong from Shillong. The drive usually takes around two hours, but we couldn't resist stopping for photo breaks along the way. It was a beautiful March morning, with perfect weather and an absolutely picturesque route. Many shades of green flanked both sides of the road for miles and miles until we arrived at a small stream.

Inspired by John Keats… lingering along streams of rushing water in the heart of pristine nature — blue skies, virescent trees, and a cool breeze — echoed our hearty laughter. :) :P

(Okay, that was a terrible effort, and I hope Keats didn’t turn in his grave. I owe him an apology.) :P

The loveliness of the tranquil ambience cannot truly be captured in photographs. It must be experienced, smelt, and felt — a painter’s paradise, a poet’s muse, a writer’s haven, a singer’s mood.

Had we brought camping equipment, this would have been the perfect place to pitch a tent for the night. I’m not sure if it’s safe after dark, but if camping is allowed, I would surely try it next time.

The multi-purpose cane basket. Here is an eco-friendly, innovative trash cone — isn’t it cute? Mawlynnong and Riwai are eco-tourism community ventures, and they use only natural, biodegradable materials for trash bins everywhere.

Off we went on the trail to the Living Root Bridge. As the name clearly implies, a living root bridge is an actual living bridge. :) It is formed from the roots of a living tree of the species Ficus elastica — the banyan fig, in this case.

To guide the tree’s roots in the right direction, betel nut trunks are used. The trunks are sliced down the middle and hollowed out to create root-guiding channels. The thin, tender roots of the ficus tree are led through these hollowed sections, preventing them from fanning out and allowing them to grow straight across. When they reach the other side of the river, they are rooted back into the soil.

Over time, layers of roots intertwine to form a strong, sturdy bridge capable of carrying a considerable amount of weight. Once the structure becomes very strong, stone slabs are placed on top to create a smoother walkway.

It is said that these bridges can last for hundreds of years, depending on the health of the mother tree. Since new roots keep growing, the bridge literally regenerates whenever older roots or trees die. Over the years, its strength increases as more layers of roots intertwine.

Of course, the villagers maintain them carefully and are prompt with repairs, since these bridges are often their only way to commute.

These bridges are often the only means of connecting the small interior villages of Meghalaya that do not have road access. The trail to the Riwai Bridge is not too steep, slimy, or narrow compared to many of the others.

Khasi men and women washing clothes along the beautiful stream. The same cane baskets are used to carry the clothes.

A precarious little stretch of rocky trail. 

A typical bamboo and cane hut. Mawlynnong has homestays and guest houses for visitors. I think one must stay overnight to experience the place better, since there are a couple of waterfalls and other nature trails that can be enjoyed at leisure rather than during a hurried and tiring day trip. Definitely a treat for those who enjoy a little rustic, non-city atmosphere.

A tall bamboo tower leads to a sky-view shelter. The structure is at least 10–12 meters tall and made entirely of bamboo, even the ties and joints. Initially, I was a bit scared, but once I began to trust the strength of the construction, I relaxed. The view from the top was spectacular. The feeling of being in a really high tree house could be nothing less than amazing.

There are even tree houses for visitors to stay in. I’m not sure how brave I’ll be to perch up that high for a night, but I shall give it a try next time.

There are no restaurants in the village. The only options are homemade food and fruits offered by the villagers. We tried some new types of berries — above: Shophie, and below: Shohsang.

These berries looked quite tempting, but… but… one bite and I literally jumped. It was extremely sour! I must have mimicked one of Jim Carrey’s favorite antics as an uncontrollable tickle ran through my entire body. :P

That’s the best way I can describe the degree of sourness.

We didn’t stay back for the night, as we had plans to go to Sohra for the waterfalls. But I made a promise to myself — next time I will carry a good, fat book and stay there until I finish reading it. Fresh air and a good book should be quite relaxing. I think I should take Roots. :)