Our Arunachal trip was a usual last-minute unplanned 'let's go anywhere. My friend had just returned from Canada after a rigorous MBA torture and wanted a break, while I was visiting Assam, the neighboring state.
I announced the exciting plan to my (presumably) not-going-to-be-very-excited father, 'Baba, we are off to Arunachal tomorrow!' Nonplussed, he questioned, 'Who goes to Arunachal in peak monsoons?'
I sheepishly grinned back at him making the "I" very evident! My travel partner joined in to convey a stronger "we"!!
There was a silent, yet very obvious 'you kidding me?' SIGH! Having known me all my life, Baba decided not to waste a second or a syllable putting sense into my obstinate head. He gave a hesitant affirmative nod and dived back into his morning newspaper ritual.
We headed out to get the inner line permit from Arunachal Bhavan soon after breakfast. And there took place our little episode!!
Yup!! little did we realize the 5-minute task would cost us an entire day and a bit of our feminine dignity (Now don't imagine the worst, it was less than too serious). When we handed in the application form, the registrar at the desk, scanned us thoroughly from head to toe to my utter discomfort. "Hmmm! Who else is going with you?" he said turning his glance back to the application forms on his desk.
"Oh! I am going with her and she is coming with me :)" I said, closing the eager reply with a big smile recalling some wise words of a wise soul that 'smiles especially with dimples often induce speedy service.'
"Hmm!! So you are going alone!!" :/ he replied sounding much too disinterested.
"Absolutely NOT Sir!! I think you heard me wrong! We both are going together!" (Big Smile again)
"Yes! That's what I said, you both are going alone!" he was still perusing the measly one-page form as if it contained years of historical research that needed meticulous examination.
"Well NOT really Sir, I think there is a slight confusion. SHE and ME are going together. TWO is not equal to alone :)!!!" (Barely holding on to the Big smile! - my cheeks had started to hurt!!)
Piqued, he replied, "Exactly, two young girls should not be traveling alone. Do you have no objection letters from your parents?" he looked up just when I gave my cheeks their much-needed rest.
I sheepishly grinned back at him making the "I" very evident! My travel partner joined in to convey a stronger "we"!!
There was a silent, yet very obvious 'you kidding me?' SIGH! Having known me all my life, Baba decided not to waste a second or a syllable putting sense into my obstinate head. He gave a hesitant affirmative nod and dived back into his morning newspaper ritual.
We headed out to get the inner line permit from Arunachal Bhavan soon after breakfast. And there took place our little episode!!
Yup!! little did we realize the 5-minute task would cost us an entire day and a bit of our feminine dignity (Now don't imagine the worst, it was less than too serious). When we handed in the application form, the registrar at the desk, scanned us thoroughly from head to toe to my utter discomfort. "Hmmm! Who else is going with you?" he said turning his glance back to the application forms on his desk.
"Oh! I am going with her and she is coming with me :)" I said, closing the eager reply with a big smile recalling some wise words of a wise soul that 'smiles especially with dimples often induce speedy service.'
"Hmm!! So you are going alone!!" :/ he replied sounding much too disinterested.
"Absolutely NOT Sir!! I think you heard me wrong! We both are going together!" (Big Smile again)
"Yes! That's what I said, you both are going alone!" he was still perusing the measly one-page form as if it contained years of historical research that needed meticulous examination.
"Well NOT really Sir, I think there is a slight confusion. SHE and ME are going together. TWO is not equal to alone :)!!!" (Barely holding on to the Big smile! - my cheeks had started to hurt!!)
Piqued, he replied, "Exactly, two young girls should not be traveling alone. Do you have no objection letters from your parents?" he looked up just when I gave my cheeks their much-needed rest.
Surprise took over the smile! We looked askance at him. 'Why do we need No Objection letters? (Having traveled all across the globe in the last two decades, this is the first time we were asked for any such thing as a NOC). 'We are above 18, well above 30 if that helps. Here are our passports in case you have any doubts, I retorted still trying to smile.
Mr. Baruah was obviously oblivious to the hint given. 'WE are INDEPENDENT women'. He simply scanned us again with greater scrutiny this time, almost making me sound like a habitual liar, " Hmm! Guess passports can't be wrong!! So, do you have No Objection letters from your respective spouses?"
AArgh !!! Even the fact that he still doubted our age in the passport (which on any other given day would have been a reason to celebrate) couldn't stop the desperate scream almost forcing its way out of my larynx. Thankfully I managed to swallow it back (together with the hurt pride) on time!! Holding my calm, I said, "Sir, We are not married!!"
Bam!!! His eyes grew big, round, and curious. I was on guard. Yes!! we have met that expression a million times before from strangers and non-strangers, especially from sexagenarians. I could clearly read the myriad thoughts that ran through his inquisitive brain. Past experience instinctively prompted us to revert his focus to the main context before he digressed into the next obvious track. I was not willing to welcome unsolicited advice regarding the sanctity of social precepts...blah blah blah
"Don't you think girls.... by 30 you should be...."
I hastily interrupted what sounded like the opening of a very familiar speech, "Sir, I have come from Delhi and she from Bombay. It's impossible for us to get NOCs from our parents right now. We have only 7 days' leave and we would like to start our trip tomorrow. We shall be greatly obliged if you can kindly ...." Suddenly I found myself weak in genteel vocabulary.
"Rules are rules ladies! I can't do much. Girls get into all kinds of weird mess and then we are unnecessarily harassed by parents." He popped a 'pan' into his already rufous mouth and added. " Please go and meet the Director. If he approves this, you are good to go."
I was all agog to know 'What' weird mess (particularly) girls get into? Ever so frustrated, this time I was on the verge of a verbal explosion when the Dalai lama photo hanging on the wall behind Mr. Baruah whispered, "Peace on earth!!!! Focus on your agenda - the permit." We nodded, controlled that pugnacious urge, and headed for our next destination - The Director's office.
The director flashed a guilty grin and said, "No only under 18s!!" I looked around for another 'Dalai Lama' photograph. Dear Lord, do we waste time arguing about fair and unfair, or just beg, plead or even threaten at gunpoint - "Give us the blessed permit"!!! We voted for begging and pleading. Humiliating as it may sound that was the ONLY closest thing possible to get us moving towards our destination the next day. Maybe we can sit on a 'dharna' (agitation) in front of Arunachal Bhavan on our way back looking at the new trend in our country.
Back to agenda - How do we produce a No objection letter?!?? Go back home, get a letter from Baba, ask uncle to send my friends and waste another day, or (simply Write one ourselves right now). Damn! the idealist me!! can't lie!! Can't fight a wrong with another wrong!
Mr. Baruah was obviously oblivious to the hint given. 'WE are INDEPENDENT women'. He simply scanned us again with greater scrutiny this time, almost making me sound like a habitual liar, " Hmm! Guess passports can't be wrong!! So, do you have No Objection letters from your respective spouses?"
AArgh !!! Even the fact that he still doubted our age in the passport (which on any other given day would have been a reason to celebrate) couldn't stop the desperate scream almost forcing its way out of my larynx. Thankfully I managed to swallow it back (together with the hurt pride) on time!! Holding my calm, I said, "Sir, We are not married!!"
Bam!!! His eyes grew big, round, and curious. I was on guard. Yes!! we have met that expression a million times before from strangers and non-strangers, especially from sexagenarians. I could clearly read the myriad thoughts that ran through his inquisitive brain. Past experience instinctively prompted us to revert his focus to the main context before he digressed into the next obvious track. I was not willing to welcome unsolicited advice regarding the sanctity of social precepts...blah blah blah
"Don't you think girls.... by 30 you should be...."
I hastily interrupted what sounded like the opening of a very familiar speech, "Sir, I have come from Delhi and she from Bombay. It's impossible for us to get NOCs from our parents right now. We have only 7 days' leave and we would like to start our trip tomorrow. We shall be greatly obliged if you can kindly ...." Suddenly I found myself weak in genteel vocabulary.
"Rules are rules ladies! I can't do much. Girls get into all kinds of weird mess and then we are unnecessarily harassed by parents." He popped a 'pan' into his already rufous mouth and added. " Please go and meet the Director. If he approves this, you are good to go."
I was all agog to know 'What' weird mess (particularly) girls get into? Ever so frustrated, this time I was on the verge of a verbal explosion when the Dalai lama photo hanging on the wall behind Mr. Baruah whispered, "Peace on earth!!!! Focus on your agenda - the permit." We nodded, controlled that pugnacious urge, and headed for our next destination - The Director's office.
The same round of questions followed at the Directors! Sigh!!! And all we really sought was a permit for a week's travel in Arunachal Pradesh Why was it so difficult?
The WHY actually has a simple answer 'We are women'. If something unpleasant happens, we, apparently, have a lot more to lose! Second thoughts, are men really safer than women? Don't we have the right to be responsible for ourselves? I wondered?! "Do you require parents or spouse letters in case of men traveling 'alone' in twos!! I think that's more important? The weird things are because of them!! and sometimes the weird things may happen to them as well" (Not quite the feminist nazi but this seemed honestly unfair)The director flashed a guilty grin and said, "No only under 18s!!" I looked around for another 'Dalai Lama' photograph. Dear Lord, do we waste time arguing about fair and unfair, or just beg, plead or even threaten at gunpoint - "Give us the blessed permit"!!! We voted for begging and pleading. Humiliating as it may sound that was the ONLY closest thing possible to get us moving towards our destination the next day. Maybe we can sit on a 'dharna' (agitation) in front of Arunachal Bhavan on our way back looking at the new trend in our country.
Back to agenda - How do we produce a No objection letter?!?? Go back home, get a letter from Baba, ask uncle to send my friends and waste another day, or (simply Write one ourselves right now). Damn! the idealist me!! can't lie!! Can't fight a wrong with another wrong!
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The closing time was just a few minutes away and we were about to go back home disappointed when the phone buzzed - Mr. Bell at our rescue:)
"Sir, would you like to talk to our parents or even video conference?" He reluctantly agreed. We got our permits. (Very Big Smile :)
..............
Dedicated to Dr. Alexander Graham Bell and Mr. Martin Cooper who made our trip possible.
Closing On the lines of Satyamev Jayate: Should Arunachal Bhavan rethink the No Objection letters for women above 18? Vote for Change!!:)
PS: 1. Monsoon was indeed the wrong time to travel.
2. There were definite safety concerns in Arunachal.
2. There were definite safety concerns in Arunachal.
What an amazing experience it must have been. not only safety there are many other concerns they should take letters of. school certificates employees I'd n no objection from work front. why not from the local police station n one more from the press that anything happens we have no objection to it. Really Arunachal pradesh is a must visit place. too exciting too
ReplyDeleteWell, everyone entering Arunachal has to take an inner line permit. I think that's a must for most of the border states..especially border states that have security concerns...it's a China border, so I guess the permits are even more important. For the permit, we have to submit two photographs and a copy of a state issued id or passport. The permits are verified by police authorities at entry ports. It's pretty strict. We had no issues about getting the permits but the fact that women of any age group require an extra 'no objection letter' from a parent or spouse was quite demeaning as if an adult woman cannot speak for herself or be responsible for herself. We did speak to the Director regarding this but well not sure if it made a point. I hope the rules change or have changed! As for Arunachal, as a place, its beautiful...has its unexplored charm :)
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