For A Budget Trip To Malaysia: Part 2 - Borneo

After 6 days in the Malaysian Peninsula which included Kuala Lumpur, Penang, Langkawi, Kuala Terengganu, and Melaka in Rs. 18.5K / $268 (excluding food) we proceeded for our Borneo adventure. (For Part 1)

Day 7

On day 7, our flight to Kuching departed at 7 a.m. from KLIA2 (Kuala Lumpur International Airport Terminal 2). It was a cheap flight deal by Air Asia for 89 RM. Always a good idea to plan trips around cheap flight deals since the major expense of a trip is the airfare. Interestingly, at Kuching airport, we had to go through immigration again and our passports were stamped again, though Sarawak is a part of Malaysia. Not sure why!

Kuching

At the airport exit, there was a visitor information booth, which provided us with the required information about Kuching and the places of interest. Next, as directed by the guy at the information desk, we took a prepaid taxi to Kuching city center. The fare was 26 RM. We headed directly to a hostel selected from online TripAdvisor recommendations. The hostel was in Chinatown in the city center - 'Three house bed and breakfast'. I loved it from its very first 'red' look. Would definitely recommend it. 1 dorm bed is 20 RM, a 2-bed room is 60 RM, and a double-bed room is 70 RM. We opted for the dormitory since it was available. The hostel was neat, and clean, with a kitchen where one can cook, a reading room with interesting books, a TV, CD player, and movies, a laundry section, clean bathrooms, and very friendly staff and owner. We also had good company in our dorm of 6, a Chinese student, a French airline employee, and a Russian globetrotter. One of the best things about traveling is meeting many new people sharing a common space and exchanging notes from across the world.

Three House Bed and Breakfast

For the first day in Kuching, we decided to just relax and explore on foot. We went around the local markets, small streets, riverfront, Chinatown, Indian Street, and local places of interest. It drizzled now and then but not enough to get wet. Hanging out at the riverfront was the best part. I even dozed off sitting on the bench as the soft breeze lured me to la la land.  In the evening we savored yummy Sarawak laksa at a pretty bistro.

Bistro and Sarawak Laksa

Total expenditure excluding food: 135 RM / Rs 2160

Day 8

The next day we woke up early, had a hearty breakfast of bread and jam (complimentary at the hostel), and rushed to catch the 7 a.m. bus (#K6) to Semenggoh Orangutan Rehabilitation Center from the bus station near Jalan Masjid, which was at a walking distance from the hostel. Yet, unfortunately, we missed the morning bus and had to take the next one in the afternoon. There are only two buses to Semenggoh but it is highly recommended to take the morning one precisely because, if you miss an orangutan sighting in the morning session, you might get fortunate in the afternoon one. The last bus back was scheduled at 4 pm and we were warned that failing to get on that one would mean paying a fortune for a cab. TRAVEL TIP: Keep a cab number handy and also the number of the hotel staying at, just in case one gets lost or stranded. It's always useful.

Semengohh Rehabilitation Center

The to-and-fro bus fare to Semenggoh was around 6 RM.  We extended our stay at the hostel since it was quite comfortable and beds were available in the dorm (our accommodation expense for the day therefore was 20 RM). The entry fee for foreign nationals at Semenggoh was 20 RM. We were told, 'It's advisable to let the bus driver know that you intend to return by the 4 pm bus. He will make a note to pick you up.' Our tight pockets ensured that we heeded those wise words.

There's really very little to do at the Rehab center if you are pressed for time. A very short stretch is open to visitors and the only option for Orangutan sighting is during their feeding time. Unfortunately, November is the fruiting season in Borneo and most Orangutans do not turn up at the feeding point. The forest ranger mentioned that three baby Orangs had come down to the feeding point in the morning. Ahh!! Not again :((( (My luck is pretty bad for sighting animals :( ) but well that said, with high hopes we waited. At 3 pm the ranger asked everyone to follow him through a trail to the feeding point. One of the feeders hollered in almost Orang tongue (perhaps) to invite them for lunch. We were asked to wait in absolute silence after being instructed to not tease or feed an orang if it appears anywhere close, cause they might get agitated and aggressive and then whatever may follow may not be very pleasant. Hmm! We waited till 3:30 but none turned up. We took the chance and waited another 15 minutes before heading back with a heavy heart :( and a very anxious heart (we were about to miss the bus!)

At least the Orangutan Statue

Way back, the bus dropped us in front of a Gurudwara. Excited we entered the Sikh temple and met local Indians. Like a Chinatown in every prominent city in the world, there is also an India Street in every part of the world.

TIP: Without fail, take the first bus to Semeggoh in the morning. Find out the bus timings from the ticket counter near Jalan Masjid the day before. This will give a better chance for Orangutan sighting.

Total expenditure excluding food: 46 RM / Rs. 736

Day 9

On day 9, we had to shift to a 2-bed room since the dorms were pre-booked for the day. Hence, our room tariff for the day was 30 RM. We rose earlier the next day since we couldn't afford to miss the 7 a.m. bus (#1) to Bako Village from the Jalan Masjid stop. The to-and-fro bus fare was around 7 RM. TIP: Bus timings keep changing, so please find out the timings and numbers the day before from the bus stop counter. If planning a day trip to Bako National Park, one MUST absolutely take the 7 a.m. bus.

Kampung Bako Jetty Point

It took about 50 minutes to reach the jetty pier at Kampung Bako. The entry fee to Bako National Park for foreign nationals was 20 RM. We had to show our passports and enter our passport numbers in a register there. Then we bought one-way boat tickets to the park for 20 RM.  The return ticket should be bought at the counter at the park. It's best to buy it as soon as one reaches the park especially if it's peak season (guess you don't need to wonder why! :). It was a 30-minute ride through the South China Sea's beautiful seascape. At the park's visitor center, we were asked to sign a form and select trails we wished to trek. We chose three trails. Two for sighting the proboscis monkey and one for a viewpoint. We planned to take the last boat back at 4 p.m. TIP: First thing after landing go to the boat ticketing counter, find out the boat timings buy your ticket if planning to return on the same day, and then plan the treks accordingly.

Dead Mangrove

If I haven't forgotten, I think we chose the trails Delima, Pandan Besar, and Pandan Kecil. We began our trek at 9 a.m. The treks were manageable but we didn't see any animals in close range, though we heard a lot of rustling in the trees and saw monkeys way up but too far and too quick to be photographed. Rather they were like shadows jumping around. I wanted to see a monkey close enough to be photographed but not close enough to stand face-to-face :P at least not somewhere where me and the monkeys were alone :/ I hoped not!:) Guides can be hired in Bako but we chose not to. The reason was not our adventurous spirit but our limited budget. I think they charged anywhere between a whopping 100 to 180 RM. We were told the treks could be managed without a guide and we took the risk.

Bako Trails

It was pretty hot and lots of mosquitos. Thankfully, I wore full pants and a full-sleeve shirt and carried a mosquito repellant cream. TIP: Must carry a bottle of water but keep it hidden, monkeys love to snatch bottles from unsuspecting trekkers. On our way back from Delima, we decided to take a quick hike to Ulu Assam. It was a little eerie, and some steep climbs. Am not a very tall person and it was quite a bit of work to climb steep root steps at points. My friend wasn't feeling well and decided to head back, so I went forward alone. After reaching the top I saw a mark that said 'beware of bees' but there was no sign as to which way I had to proceed next. The tree marks may have faded, but then I realized, that Ulu Assam was not ticked as our chosen trail, and we didn't meet any other person on our way, if we got lost, this might be the last place anybody would search. With these thoughts in mind, I decided to turn back. I had to catch up with my friend as well who had already headed back. Later, we mentioned the missing signs at the information desk.

Bako Trails

Pandan Besar was supposed to be a 2-hour walk (to and fro) but I got lost in between trying to look for Pandan Kecil which was supposed to be somewhere around as well. It started raining halfway through but only for a few minutes and it was sunny again. Anyway, I completed the trails in about 3 hours or so. By then I was completely exhausted, I had been walking since 9 a.m. and it was almost 2. Tired, I went back to the information center where my friend was waiting. 

Proboscis Monkey Finally!

There is a small self-service eatery, next to the information desk, with the least appetizing food but the hunger pangs forced us to buy 4 slices of watermelon and a piece of cake. We had just finished eating when we saw a Proboscis monkey right in front of the cafeteria, perched up on a tree.  Well after 5 hours of animal-free, we finally saw one :) now that was some luck. I think I did prefer it there, than meeting one alone in the wilderness :P The monkey was irritated and threw something hard at a visitor clicking its photograph. We also saw a silver leaf monkey that stealthily tried to enter the cafeteria.

Bako Trails

Though we had bought tickets for the 4 pm boat we decided to head back an hour early. Because of low tides, we had to board the boat from the beach. The boat was way out in the sea, and I was half wet by the time I boarded. That covered my sea bathing :P. We reached Kuching about 5 ish. The first thing I needed was a hot water bath followed by a scrumptious dinner. I didn't want to try anything new and went for a tasty olive shrimp fried rice at a Korean restaurant and a sweet dish I don't remember the name of. A good way to end a tiring day. 

Low Tide at The Boat Boarding

Note: One can stay overnight at Bako National Park and take the night treks and the waterfall trails. There are limited beds at the Bako Lodge, hence they have to be pre-booked. Booking is confirmed at their booking office in Kuching. Word of caution: the lodge has bed bugs, so be prepared :P our dorm roommate had been bitten. 

Total expenditure excluding food: 97 RM / Rs. 1552

Day 10

On day 10, we were back to the dorm for 20 RM. We had plans to visit the Gunung Gnading National Park with hopes to see the largest flower in the world, the Rafflesia. The bus schedule at the hostel was an old one, which gave us the wrong bus timings. In the confusion, we missed the first bus to Lundu town. Therefore, once you arrive at Kuching, one of the first things to do is to confirm all required bus timings and numbers from the nearest bus station. Do not depend on internet information or hotel schedules. The timings and numbers change often. There are no direct buses to Lundu town from Jalan Masjid.  One must go to Kuching Sentral and then take a bus to Lundu. The bus fare to Kuching Sentral was 4 RM. It took 30-40 minutes to reach Kuching Sentral. The bus to and fro Lundu was 24 RM. It took 2 hours to reach Lundu. The friendly bus conductor asked us if we planned to walk to the park or take a cab. Since we were short on time we told him we preferred to take a cab. Turned out this guy was a part-time conductor and a part-time cabbie:P  He said when we reach Lundu station, he will fetch his taxi, drop us at the park, and then resume his conductor duties on the bus back to Kuching. He added, that if we needed a taxi on our way back, we should call up his friend to give us a ride and all for 10 RM only.  We accepted the deal. We didn't have many options anyway.

On The Gunung Gnading Trail

The Park entree fee was 20 RM. At the park information center, we received the sad news, that the last Rafflesia had dried out a week back and the new one was still in the bud stage. :( There's really no Rafflesia season. The park kept track of the flowers growing in the conservation area only, there could be flowers deeper into the forest but one could never be sure. We were told Rafflesias don't grow very easily and many times the porcupines feed on the buds making their chances of flowering rarer. I asked the guy at the desk, if not the flower, can I get lucky enough to sight a hornbill? He smiled and replied, 'If you are lucky enough, you might see a python as well' Hmm... I didn't want to get that lucky :P

TIP: If planning to visit Gunung Gnading Park, please call the park to find out if there is a rafflesia in bloom. Otherwise, it may be a waste of a day and money if you have limited time in Kuching.  Of course, there are forest trails, but we had already trekked much the day before. Even the waterfalls at the park weren't in full flow. We were quite disappointed since we could have gone to the caves or the beaches. Anyway, now that we were in the park, I wanted to see the bud at least, unfortunately, we couldn't find the bud either. A guide at Gunung Gnading charges 30 RM. I think it's a must to hire one if looking for the flower, trust me it wasn't easy to locate the bud without one.

Next, we took a trek to the waterfalls. There are three. We were at the first when the siren buzzed. There were some local students bathing at the waterfall, they rushed out and told us to hurry as well. We weren't sure why the hurry. One of them said it's going to rain. Running back wasn't an option at all, the path wasn't the most comfortable, and it was a typical forest trail with slimy rocks and stone, so I took it easy rain or no rain. The students disappeared soon. Guess they are locals and used to these trails. After a while a forest guide appeared out of nowhere, he told us to hurry and disappeared in a jiffy. Thankfully, it started raining heavily, just after we reached. At the information desk, we were told that it's not safe to be in a rainforest when it rains because the tall trees fall down often and may hurt people around.

After the rain stopped, we called the cab to take us back to Lundu. It rained all through for the next hour or so. There are no canteens or shops at the Park. One should ensure to bring bottles of water from Lundu. There is a beach near Lundu but we were too late to make it. We reached Kuching Sentral at 6:30 only to find that the last bus to Kuching city center had left at 6pm. The option left was a taxi. :(

Lundu River Front

A guy who was following us from the bus kept asking if we needed a cab to Kuching center. When we confirmed at the bus counters, there were no buses back, we told the guy that we indeed needed a cab. The guy took us to a group of taxi drivers, one made an offer for 50 RM, another 60 RM and another went to extremes to 100 RM. It was getting dark and we started getting a little worried. We realized these guys were taking advantage of our situation and would keep hiking the price with each passing minute. At the same time, we were feeling victimized and refused to give in to their demands. We argued. Even mentioned that the guy at the airport visitor center had mentioned, that the highest cab fare between any two locations within the City was 26 RM but they laughed it off.

Vexed, hurt, and worried, we went and complained to other tour operators around but they were not well versed in English and couldn't help us much ( I think so!). Luckily, we saw a taxi booth outside the bus stop tucked in one corner. A prepaid taxi booth shouldn't cheat us! With this thought in mind, we approached the guy sitting at the counter. He gladly wrote down a receipt of 30 RM and assigned us to an old taxi driver. That was much better than 50, 60, and 100 definitely :) back at the hostel our hostel owner said, We should have called her, she would have sent some taxi guy she knew. Therefore, it's wise to keep taxi numbers and hotel numbers handy.

Total expenditure excluding food: 108 RM / Rs. 1728

Day 11

The next day, we checked out of the hostel at noon but the owner allowed us to keep our bags there and to use the bathroom and toilet. She said we could use the lobby or the reading room as long as we wished to. We spent the whole day shopping rather than looking for souvenirs. Our flight back to Klia2 was late at 10:30 p.m. We left the hostel at 8 p.m. The taxi from the hostel to the airport charged us 26 RM. Flight back from Kuching was not the best of deals at 160 RM. We reached KLIA2 at around 2 p.m., due to a flight delay. We spent the night at the airport.

Famous Malaysian Layered Cake

Total expenditure excluding food: 186 RM / Rs. 2976

Day 12

On day 12, we decided to visit Melaka again to make up for our previous fiasco. Our return flight to India was scheduled for departure at 9:30 p.m., which gave us enough time to make our Melaka trip. There are direct buses from Klia2 to Melaka at regular intervals with an estimated travel time of 2 1/2 hours. The bus fare to and fro was 50 RM. From Melaka Sentral, we took a bus to Melaka city center where the Unesco heritage sites are located. Bus to and fro to Melaka city center was 4 RM.  We went to the visitor center, picked a map, and then walked around covering all the places mentioned. We took the 4:30 p.m. bus back to Klia2. The fare of the flight back to India was Rs. 6000.

Melaka heritage site

Here's what we ate in Malaysia

Total expenditure excluding food: 407 RM / Rs. 6918

Grand Total of the 5 days in Borneo and a quick Melaka visit = 1004 RM / Rs. 16,064

For A Budget Trip To Malaysia: Part 1 - Peninsula

Malaysia Comes with the tagline 'Truly Asia' and in a way, it's no misnomer. Malaysia houses a population that is an eclectic mix of Asian origins, the native Malayans, the Chinese, and the Indians. Though officially an Islamic state, it showcases rich cultural diversity.

"12 days in $ 600"

Day 1

Kolkata (India) to Kuala Lumpur KLIA2 airfare on Airasia with baggage check-in was Rs. 6000 (375 RM approx).

Our Malaysian trip commenced from Kuala Lumpur. We landed at KLIA 2 (Kuala Lumpur International Airport Terminal 2) around 7 a.m. After freshening up at the airport, we decided to head for the City. The City is about 54 km from the airport and well connected by Express trains, buses, and taxi services. The ground transportation and the express train terminals are at the lowest level of the airport. Express train fares from the airport to KL Sentral are around 35RM and take about 30 minutes. We took an AC bus instead since the fare was 11RM only and took around 40 minutes to KL Sentral. The buses are comfortable and run at regular intervals. Taxis charge around 75 RM (I think!!!)

KL Sentral is the main transportation hub of Kuala Lumpur and is located in the city center. Most trains and buses run or connect from here. KL Sentral is well equipped with all the amenities and shops a traveler might need. There are restaurants, delis, shops, restrooms, shower rooms, locker rooms, and even prayer rooms.

Our plan was to hang around the city during the day and then take an overnight bus to Penang. At KL Sentral we were told that we can get interstate buses from the Terminal Bersepadu Selatan, the main bus terminal of Kuala Lumpur. The other option was taking a train from KL Sentral that departed at 4 p.m. We decided to stick to the overnight bus.

We kept our bags in the locker for a shared 20RM and one-time lock. After a quick breakfast of yummy Mushroom Soup and garlic bread from an Italian deli at the Sentral we headed for the Batu caves. We bought train tickets for 2RM and it took us about 30 mins to reach the Hindu temple caves. The caves are within walking distance from the station.

One of those rare places that touched my spiritual side. This cave temple has an enigmatic feel. Soft breeze, drizzling rain, the smell of sandalwood incense, temple music, and Vedic chants - a divine combination that gives goose bumps.

There is a 272-step climb to reach the main cave temple. On the way you are greeted by monkeys who don't miss any chance to snatch a bottle or food item you are carrying or pose for the camera. We spent a couple hours at the caves and took the train back to KL Sentral. At Sentral, we took tickets to Petronas Towers' KLCC station. The fare was 1.30 RM. We spent the evening hanging around the Petronas. In the evening the place is lit and the towers look absolutely amazing. A great example of post-modern architecture.  After a quick dinner at the tower, we headed back to KL Sentral. Picked our bags from the lockers and took the train to the bus station. The fare was 2RM. Buses run at regular intervals and we decided to take the 1 am bus to Penang. It was around 38RM and took us roughly 5 hours to reach Penang Island.

Total expenditure excluding food: 443 RM per person (including airfare)

Day 2

Our main destination at Penang was Georgetown. My suggestion would be to take the bus to Butterworth and then take the ferry to Georgetown directly instead of taking the bus to the Penang Bus station. We lost a lot of time waiting for a connecting bus to Georgetown from the Bus station.  It was a Friday, a holiday there. I believe the bus frequency is better on a regular day. The bus fare from Penang bus station to Georgetown is around 3 RM. There are taxis at the station but they are comparatively expensive charging around 25 RM.  Our hotel on Victoria Lane was within walking distance of the main graffiti streets that Georgetown is famous for. For the shower and storing our bags, the hotel charged us 20RM for two people. After a quick shower and breakfast at a Tamil restaurant nearby, we headed for a walk around the town.

Graffiti streets in George Town
(A UNESCO Heritage Site)

Next, we took the 2 p.m. ferry to Langkawi. The fare was 60 RM. We walked to the pier but there were buses and the fare was 2 RM or less. It took us 4 hours to reach Langkawi Island. Langkawi was comparatively pricey with no bus transportation and because of the local holiday season. The taxi from the pier to Pantai Cenang where most of the tourists head for budget accommodation took 25RM.

There are hotels ranging from 35 RM a room to 300 RM a room. We didn't prebook and it was a local holiday, pretty bad timing!!! Therefore, ended up paying extra for a non-ac triple bedroom (which we didn't need) but was the only one available close to the beach. We paid 120 RM which could have easily been 60 or 70. If you are good at bargaining which unfortunately I am not, am sure the accommodation prices can be managed for cheaper for a decent room. After freshening up we headed for a night walk around the market which almost emptied out by 9ish. We tried Malaysian street food for dinner. Something like satay but steamed not grilled.

Total expenditure excluding food: 210 RM per person.

Day 3

We had the option of taking different tours in Langkawi -  50 RM for a day tour of the mangroves, 250 - 600 RM or higher for snorkeling and scuba tours, 50 RM for adventure trek, and others ranging from 30 RM to 600 RM +. One can even rent bicycles and motorcycles for self-tours. My feet were in pretty bad shape and swollen, so we decided to take it easy and just dawdled along the beach which was pretty deserted. I assume most of the tourists had gone out for their respective day tours. Before heading back we decided to take a jet ski ride at 20 RM per person. After lunch, we took a taxi for 25 RM back to the jetty pier and took the ferry for 23 RM to Kuala Keddah.

At Kuala Keddah pier, buses are not very frequent, at least that was told to us, and since we were short on time we decided to take a cab to the bus terminus Shahab Perdana. The taxi took 20 RM for the commute. When we reached there, we were told all buses for Kuala Terengganu were full :( Quite disheartened while we were wondering what to do next, someone said, a special bus had been announced for the night. The bus departure was at 9:30 pm and the fare was  61 RM. Later we found that tickets for other sold-out buses were 50 RM and below. We went back to the agent and questioned him regarding the fare difference but he justified it by saying it was a special bus hence the special fare. Well, we were much too exhausted to argue in a foreign land. So yes, be careful.

The bus didn't quite arrive at 9:30 p.m. Rather the bus didn't arrive at all. Am assuming the bus operator didn't find enough travelers for the extra bus and finally sent us in a Van with 10 others at 11 pm past :P. Trust me had it been some other time and some other part of the world we would have protested but well it was drizzling, it was already too late in a small quaint town. We agreed to the deal. Fortunately, the road was good, it rained the whole night and from whatever little I could see, the route was beautiful.

Total expenditure excluding food: 149 RM per person.

Day 4

We arrived at Kuala Terengganu at around 6 a.m. It took us roughly 7 hours without any stops. The van dropped us at the Kuala Terengganu Bus Terminus. Our plan was to head to the islands. Perhentian or Kapas or Redang but then came the bad news. All islands on the east coast were closed due to the monsoons :( for roughly 4 months starting November. Well, most of the beautiful Malaysian islands are on the east coast and that definitely was one of our main attractions. Well, we couldn't go against Mother Nature. Lesson learned: Research better! Therefore please, NOTE: ALL EAST COAST ISLANDS IN MALAYSIA ARE CLOSED DURING MONSOONS ROUGHLY BETWEEN NOVEMBER - MARCH. One should surely get that confirmed before planning an island trip. A second NOTE: MONSOONS IN MALAYSIA MEANS RAIN NOW AND THEN. BE PREPARED WITH AN UMBRELLA/RAINCOAT OR JUST ENJOY GETTING WET :).

Next, we headed for the beach from the bus terminus to look for a beach hotel. There are no buses in Kuala Terengganu. Only Taxis!! The taxi charged us 24 RM for our hotel hunt.  The hotels on the beach were beyond our budget. Finally, we chose one at a walking distance. The hotel tariff was 100 RM. The hotels near the bus stop and Chinatown are comparatively cheaper. There are cheaper homestays near the crystal mosque area. After a hot shower and a good long sleep. We went out for a walk around the town. Since Malaysia is predominantly Islamic, there are many mosques and I must acknowledge that, architecturally the country has some really beautiful Islamic monuments. In the evening I took a taxi to the Crystal mosque which charged me 25 RM for the round trip and waited. The driver, an old gentleman was very hospitable and friendly for a lone traveler and did not charge the waiting fare.

Total expenditure excluding food: 149 RM per person.

Day 5

The next day early morning we went to the beach. The South China Sea has beautiful surfing waves and there were a couple of surfers doing their feat in the drizzling rain. Unfortunately, it started raining heavily and we had to rush back to the hotel. The hotels allow luggage storage after checkout for free for a few hours. Because of the rain, we couldn't explore the area much, but we still tried whenever the rain slowed. In the afternoon we headed for the Bus terminus in a cab for 12 RM. At the bus terminus, we kept our bags in a locker room for 4 RM a bag and purchased tickets for Melaka for 47 RM. Our bus was due for departure at 9:30 pm, so, we had some time in the evening to explore other areas in the town when the rain stopped. Kuala Terengganu is quite a nice place to hang around for a day or two. It's quiet and laid back. The islands would have made our stay more rewarding for sure. Maybe next time :)

Total expenditure excluding food: 63 RM per person.

Day 6

Borrowed from the we(My pics went hazy :( )

We arrived at Melaka Sentral early in the morning. I think the journey took us roughly 8 hrs. I was on some weekly medication, which made me quite sick. So Day 6 in Melaka didn't go exactly as I had wished. We picked a hotel in China town which was way out and a big mistake. There is one bus that runs every 1 hr to Chinatown and it takes around 30 minutes to reach its destination. The fare is 2 RM. A taxi would charge 25 RM.

A better place to stay in Melaka is the City center which is close to the UNESCO heritage sites. Our hotel tariff was 60 RM.  I slept almost till 3 p.m. The day was pretty mismanaged and we ended up not seeing much. Rather we managed to visit Mosque Selat only at the Malaka strait on an island the Melaka Pulau. (Malaysian for the island is Pulau and for the beach is Pantai). Mosque Selat is an absolute must if visiting Melaka.

Later we bought tickets to KLIA2 for 25 RM of the last bus leaving at 8:30 pm.  The bus to the city center fare was 2 RM. The taxi to Mosque Selat from the city center was 20 RM. The taxi fare from Mosque Selat to Chinatown was 20 RM. Taxi fares can be bargained I believe - am bad at it :P. The taxi fare from Chinatown to Melaka Sentral was 25 RM. This was the most mismanaged most expensive and least fruitful day of our trip.

Total expenditure excluding food: 154 RM per person.

Total expenditure for 6 days excluding food: 1168 RM / Rs. 18688 per person.

 ( I have not included food expenses here but the entire trip with the food, airfare, and all the mismanaged extras and the souvenirs totaled Rs. 40K.  We ate well and spent at least 30 RM on food per day)

PS: A good way to travel across Malaysia would be to rent a car. The roads are pretty good in most places.

Day 7

Off to Borneo. Contd. in Part 2

Thank You Mr. Bell!

Our Arunachal trip was a usual last-minute unplanned 'let's go anywhere. My friend had just returned from Canada after a rigorous MBA torture and wanted a break, while I was visiting Assam, the neighboring state.

I announced the exciting plan to my (presumably) not-going-to-be-very-excited father, 'Baba, we are off to Arunachal tomorrow!' Nonplussed, he questioned, 'Who goes to Arunachal in peak monsoons?'

I sheepishly grinned back at him making the "I" very evident! My travel partner joined in to convey a stronger "we"!!

There was a silent, yet very obvious 'you kidding me?' SIGH! Having known me all my life, Baba decided not to waste a second or a syllable putting sense into my obstinate head. He gave a  hesitant affirmative nod and dived back into his morning newspaper ritual. 

We headed out to get the inner line permit from Arunachal Bhavan soon after breakfast. And there took place our little episode!!

Yup!! little did we realize the 5-minute task would cost us an entire day and a bit of our feminine dignity (Now don't imagine the worst, it was less than too serious). When we handed in the application form, the registrar at the desk, scanned us thoroughly from head to toe to my utter discomfort. "Hmmm! Who else is going with you?" he said turning his glance back to the application forms on his desk.

"Oh! I am going with her and she is coming with me :)" I said, closing the eager reply with a big smile recalling some wise words of a wise soul that 'smiles especially with dimples often induce speedy service.'

"Hmm!! So you are going alone!!" :/ he replied sounding much too disinterested.

"Absolutely NOT Sir!! I think you heard me wrong! We both are going together!" (Big Smile again)

"Yes! That's what I said, you both are going alone!" he was still perusing the measly one-page form as if it contained years of historical research that needed meticulous examination.

"Well NOT really Sir, I think there is a slight confusion. SHE and ME are going together. TWO is not equal to alone :)!!!" (Barely holding on to the Big smile! - my cheeks had started to hurt!!)

Piqued, he replied, "Exactly, two young girls should not be traveling alone. Do you have no objection letters from your parents?" he looked up just when I gave my cheeks their much-needed rest.

Surprise took over the smile! We looked askance at him. 'Why do we need No Objection letters? (Having traveled all across the globe in the last two decades, this is the first time we were asked for any such thing as a NOC).  'We are above 18, well above 30 if that helps. Here are our passports in case you have any doubts, I retorted still trying to smile.

Mr. Baruah was obviously oblivious to the hint given. 'WE are INDEPENDENT women'. He simply scanned us again with greater scrutiny this time, almost making me sound like a habitual liar, " Hmm! Guess passports can't be wrong!! So, do you have No Objection letters from your respective spouses?"

AArgh !!! Even the fact that he still doubted our age in the passport (which on any other given day would have been a reason to celebrate) couldn't stop the desperate scream almost forcing its way out of my larynx. Thankfully I managed to swallow it back (together with the hurt pride) on time!! Holding my calm, I said, "Sir, We are not married!!"

Bam!!! His eyes grew big, round, and curious. I was on guard. Yes!! we have met that expression a million times before from strangers and non-strangers, especially from sexagenarians. I could clearly read the myriad thoughts that ran through his inquisitive brain. Past experience instinctively prompted us to revert his focus to the main context before he digressed into the next obvious track. I was not willing to welcome unsolicited advice regarding the sanctity of social precepts...blah blah blah

"Don't you think girls.... by 30 you should be...."

I hastily interrupted what sounded like the opening of a very familiar speech, "Sir, I have come from Delhi and she from Bombay. It's impossible for us to get NOCs from our parents right now. We have only 7 days' leave and we would like to start our trip tomorrow. We shall be greatly obliged if you can kindly ...." Suddenly I found myself weak in genteel vocabulary.

"Rules are rules ladies! I can't do much. Girls get into all kinds of weird mess and then we are unnecessarily harassed by parents." He popped a 'pan' into his already rufous mouth and added. " Please go and meet the Director. If he approves this, you are good to go."

I was all agog to know 'What' weird mess (particularly) girls get into? Ever so frustrated, this time I was on the verge of a verbal explosion when the Dalai lama photo hanging on the wall behind Mr. Baruah whispered, "Peace on earth!!!! Focus on your agenda  - the permit."   We nodded, controlled that pugnacious urge, and headed for our next destination - The Director's office.

The same round of questions followed at the Directors! Sigh!!! And all we really sought was a permit for a week's travel in Arunachal Pradesh  Why was it so difficult?

The WHY actually has a simple answer 'We are women'. If something unpleasant happens, we, apparently, have a lot more to lose! Second thoughts, are men really safer than women? Don't we have the right to be responsible for ourselves? I wondered?! "Do you require parents or spouse letters in case of men traveling 'alone' in twos!! I think that's more important? The weird things are because of them!! and sometimes the weird things may happen to them as well" (Not quite the feminist nazi but this seemed honestly unfair)

The director flashed a guilty grin and said, "No only under 18s!!" I looked around for another 'Dalai Lama' photograph. Dear Lord, do we waste time arguing about fair and unfair, or just beg, plead or even threaten at gunpoint - "Give us the blessed permit"!!! We voted for begging and pleading. Humiliating as it may sound that was the ONLY closest thing possible to get us moving towards our destination the next day. Maybe we can sit on a 'dharna' (agitation) in front of Arunachal Bhavan on our way back looking at the new trend in our country.

Back to agenda - How do we produce a No objection letter?!?? Go back home, get a letter from Baba, ask uncle to send my friends and waste another day, or (simply Write one ourselves right now). Damn! the idealist me!! can't lie!! Can't fight a wrong with another wrong!

The closing time was just a few minutes away and we were about to go back home disappointed when the phone buzzed - Mr. Bell at our rescue:)

 "Sir, would you like to talk to our parents or even video conference?"  He reluctantly agreed. We got our permits. (Very Big Smile :)

..............

Dedicated to Dr. Alexander Graham Bell and Mr. Martin Cooper who made our trip possible.

Closing On the lines of Satyamev Jayate: Should Arunachal Bhavan rethink the No Objection letters for women above 18? Vote for Change!!:)

PS: 1. Monsoon was indeed the wrong time to travel.
2.  There were definite safety concerns in Arunachal.

The Italian Holiday

They keep saying on the radio here - If you are bored You are boring. Just had a lazy Saturday afternoon. I was so bored that I could die :) Finally decided to watch an old classic "Houseboat". Carry Grant and Sophia Loren did wonders:) Loved watching the movie all over again and more so loved to hear the "Bing Bang Bong" Song. It made my day:)

And the gorgeous Diva reminded me of my Italian Holiday.

Prego, prego

Source: Pinterest

Anywhere you may go
Make each day be a day full of fun
If there's a game or a girl to be won
Do it with a Bing Bang Bong
(A Bing Bang Bong)
A Bing Bang Bong

Presto, presto
Do your very besto
Don't hang back like a shy little kid
You'll be so glad that you did what you did
If you do it with a Bing Bang Bong
(A Bing Bang Bong)
A Bing Bang Bong

Be like Cristobal Columbo
Take a chance, take a chance
Don't be a dopey or a dumbo
Goin' 'round in a trance

One step, two step
Step into a new step
Live your life with a zip and a zing
You'll have the world on the end of a string
If you do it with a Bing Bang Bong
(A Bing Bang Bong)
A Bing Bang Bong :)

For an architect, Italy is heaven, and being there felt like the big fat History of Architecture by Sir Bannister Fletcher came alive. No words are enough to describe that country that simply mesmerizes. Italy was a backpacking trip with a few friends. We flew from Chicago to Zurich. After a couple days in Switzerland, we took the Euro rail to Milan from Lucerne about 4 and a half hours of scenic rail journey.

Imagine enjoying an Italian gelato standing by the Grand Canal right under the Rialto bridge at midnight and staring at the starlit sky... :) An absolute Dolce far niente moment yet by far so blissful. So I learned the wonderful phrase in Italy which meant 'Sweet Doing Nothing' :)

The Italian Holiday 1 (Itinerary details)

From Milan, we took the train to Venice, one of my absolute favorite cities in the world. From Venice, we headed for Pisa and Florence. From Florence, we took the train to Rome and later the Vatican. From Rome, we flew back to the States.

www.Eurail.com will give the latest information on ticket pricing.

Italian Rail Network

The Story Of The Haunted (?) Fort Of Bhangarh

The Market Place of Yesteryear

The word haunted sends shivers yet excites. I like to believe there are no spirits, yet I am every bit scared.  Right now! at this wee hour of the morning,  typing about Bhangarh and reading the various related stories on the internet is giving me goosebumps. I am told the subnatural/supernatural is most active at 3 a.m. Guess what? It is 3 a.m. on my clock! And that's spooking me :)

So, Bhangarh's USP is its disrepute reputation of being haunted. Unfortunately or perhaps fortunately,  we didn't see any bhoot pret petni pishach shakchunni or any other type of ghosts!! :( But the place definitely holds an air of intrigue.

Can this be interpreted as a poltergeist effect :P

Perhaps, even the spirits are facing the loss of habitat and are on the verge of extinction?? :( Thanks to all ghost hunters flocking to these ruins!! (yups that includes me and am contradicting the very purpose of this blog :P). Never mind the weird theory, ghosts are ghosts and they will drive us, humans, off if they need to protect their home, and isn't that what we seek, the thrill of fear!! If you are the daredevil adrenaline junkie, this is THE PLACE for you, BUT only after sunset and before sunrise, you might just get lucky enough to romance the ghosts.

I asked a night guard if he ever chanced to witness any paranormal activities during his night rounds. His answer was "Sab Hawa mein hai. Kabhi Kisi ka samaye kharab hota hai toh shayad kuch dikh jaaye." (It's all in the air. If someone is in for a bad time, he might get to see something."  Well, many have claimed to have felt the paranormal presence at the fort. The internet is full of such stories. A program on the Discovery Channel even went on record to say, it is the most haunted place in India. Rocky and Mayur's show on haunted places described Bhangarh as an eerie place. Giving a gruesome example of their experiences in Bhangarh, Mayur says, "While we were shooting at night in Bhangarh, many times we heard very high pitch screams from the mountains. Once we saw a blurred figure of a woman walking around. Though it was only for a few seconds we could easily make out that something is there and we can not deny their existence," adds Mayur. Excerpt from an article in the Times of India. That reminds me of my High School St. Thomas. I think St. Thomas is one of the most haunted places on Earth. (Personal experience - shall bring the stories later).

The Archeological survey has a board at the entrance forbidding anyone from entering the premises before sunrise and after sunset. A clarification from the department was, that they prefer people away after sunset because this fort is very close to the Sariska Animal Reserve and wild animals often wander off from the forest to the fort. Not to forget a million snakes. Rajasthan is home to 30 varieties of snakes including the great python and the 4 venomous Cobra, Krait, Russel Viper, and Pud. The Aravali terrain also gives shelter to the deadly scorpions. I guess these are as scary if not more than the ghosts

Well ghosts or no ghosts, this place is worth a visit. The journey is every bit haunting, from Sariska to Bhangarh........from the past to present. Every ruin echoes a time gone by. Some voices are left behind to tell their stories and when we hear those whispers, a chill runs down the spine.

LOCATION

Country: India
State: Rajasthan
Closest City:  Jaipur

HOW TO REACH

Bhangarh is located approximately 95 km from Jaipur and approximately 300 km from New Delhi. If you are a hardcore bag packer,  take the bus. Buses are available from Delhi and Jaipur.

Or take a personal vehicle. It is possible to make it a day trip but if you have a couple more days to spare, you might make the trip more interesting with Sariska Tiger Reserve, Alwar, Abhaneri, and Ajabgarh included in the itinerary. (Click for Abhaneri post)

From Jaipur, there is a short direct route to Bhangarh through Gopalgarh (I have no idea about the road condition), the second option is NH11 via Dausa. The road to Dausa is a 4-lane highway. Dausa to Bhangarh is through small villages.

From Delhi, the route follows Gurgaon - Bhiwadi - Alwar - Sariska (going around the reserve) - Thanagazhi - Pratapgarh - Ajabgarh, and finally Bhangarh.

There are hardly any petrol pumps, restaurants or lodging options once you cross Sariska. Keep your petrol stock, food stock, and even a spare tire. Carrying a torch would be handy if you are the inquisitive explorer in search of the real ghost:)

WEATHER and WHAT TO WEAR

It's mostly warm. Preferably wear closed shoes, as mentioned scorpions and snakes have their abode in the ruins.

BEST TIME TO VISIT 

Anytime is a good time to visit. We visited in mid-March and the weather was pleasant.

WHERE TO STAY and WHAT TO EAT

Sariska Reserve has a hotel that should be booked in advance. There are heritage hotels and budget hotels in Alwar. That's the closest lodging available. Preferably carry your own food. No food options at the fort except for an ice cream cart.

The Journey in Photos...

Pratapgarh

It was quite a long 8-hour journey through small hamlets, villages, and deserted forts. Every fort gave the impression of the richness and grandeur of the 'once' Rajputana States. Each is as haunted as Bhangarh. History in ways does give goosebumps.

A Shaky Pic of Ajabgarh (I use an outdated antique digital camera :P)

And more forts

The route is beautiful, flanked by red flowering trees.  A small stream runs parallel to the road and other yellow trees adorn the landscape. I didn't get an opportunity to stop our vehicle to click the pics due to time constraints. All the more reason why one must visit these places with more time to spare

The entrance gate to the market and temple complex leads to the fortified palace gate

This fort was built by Raja Bhagwant Das, King of Amer and father of Mughal Emperor Akbar's General Man Singh for his second son Madho Singh in the mid 16/17th century. Legend says this small state was wiped out in one night. There are two popular stories to support this theory.

One of the many temples in the complex

Story 1

Madho Singh was a disciple of Guru Balu Nath. Guru Balu Nath permitted Madho Singh to build his fort with the condition that Bhangarh could grow only to a point where its shadow would not touch his ashram. It was the Guru's way of teaching his pupils to not cross the limits of power and riches. 

The Shiv Temple

As years have gone by, the King and his descendants forgot the condition. The Bhangarh fort expanded and one day it reached a height from where its shadow touched Guru Balu Nath in meditation. The angry hermit laid a curse on the kingdom, and overnight it perished, never to be revived again. It is said every single living being died and perhaps those untimely deaths left the place haunted.

The temple on the Top: Some say it's the Bhairon Baba temple. Some say that was the watch tower while some say it was the place of worship of the tantric Shinghia

Story 2

Ratnavati was the beautiful daughter of Madho Singh's descendant. Smitten by her charm A Tantric named Singhia tries to win her by offering her a special oil on which he casts some love spells (kind of the love potion in Mid-Summer Night's Dream). Having known the tantric's intentions, the princess throws the oil container. The container breaks! breaking (literally) the tantric's heart. The dying tantric curses the princess that her kingdom would perish in a night. Soon after, Ajabgarh attacks Bhangarh. Bhangarh is destroyed and Princess Ratnavati dies. Locals believe Ratnavati will be born again and shall come back to revive the glories of Bhangarh. Well so far Ratnavati has not reincarnated and the Tantric's soul haunts the fort. Reminds me of a certain Telugu movie.

The 7 storied Palace within an inner fort

The Aravalli Range

The Peepal trees: In India, it's an age-old belief (of those who believe in the existence of spirits) that ghosts reside on Peepal trees (Ficus religiosa) It is said that this tree is the staircase to heaven. Those who have sinned are not allowed to exit to the other world and they hang from the Peepal tree's branches as ghosts. :P Honestly, with roots like that, they are bound to scare people. And to think there's a ghost in my backyard :P sends me shivers.

The Chattri (Memorial tomb which does not have the grave of the deceased)

Like all princely states, Bhangarh went through its ups and downs. Mughal Siege, slow decline, and then famine. Bhangarh breathed its last in the 18th century after the famine.

The ruins of the village within the outer fort

The part of the village that's still inhabited

The last gate / The first gate...The end to begin again.