Orchha (Urchcha) - Living The History Of The Brave Bundela Kings

Light and sound shows at the Fort of Urchha tell the story of the Bundelas. The construction of the fort and palace was started by Rudra Pratap Singh when the capital of Bundela was at Garh Kundra. Upon his death, the constructions were completed by his successor, Bharti Chand, who moved the capital to Orchha

Location of Orccha

The quaint little town of Orcchaa takes you years back into the glorious era of the Bundela Rulers. The state of Orchha was founded by the Bundela Chief Raja Rudra Pratap in the 1500s. Its capital was Tehri (Tikamgarh) located 84 km south of Orchha. Before moving to Orccha, a fort was built at Garh Kundar but the location was abandoned considering easy access by the Mughals. The tiny town witnessed a tumultuous history - the Mughal Siege, the Maratha War, and a golden period. 

The Bundela Dynasty came into existence after the fall of the Chandelas. The Chandelas ruled over the Bundelkhand Region or Jejakabhukti as it was called then between the 9th to 13th centuries. The last powerful ruler of the Chandelas was Paramardi who was defeated by Prithviraj Chauhan and later by Qutub-uddin Aibak's general Ghurid. After Paramardi's death, his successors Trailokya Varman, Vira Varman I, Bhoja Varman, Hammira Varman, and Vira Varman II could not keep invaders away and eventually, the region was neglected, plundered, and left to slow decay which gave the opportunity to the Bundela Clan Kings to rise into power.

The Garh Kundar Fort - Picture source Wikipedia. The fort was originally built by Yashovarman Chandel when he conquered Bundelkhand. When Prithviraj Chauhan defeated the Chandelas, the fort came under him and he appointed Khetsingh Khangar, as the ruler of the fort. Khetsingh founded the Khangar dynasty

Sohanpal Bundela, a powerful Bundela Clan chief in alliance with other small kings in the region, defeated the ruler of Garh Kundar and established himself as the King, thus laying the foundation stone of the Bundela Dynasty. The legend has it, that Sohanpal was the younger son of Arjunpal, the king of Mahoni near current day Jalaun in Uttar Pradesh. When Arjunpal's elder son Birpal succeeded him, Sohanpal rebelled against him with the help of Hurmat Singh Kangar, the then ruler of Garh Kundar but in return, Hurmat Singh forced him for matrimonial alliance and kept him in captivity. Sohanpal escaped, took help from the king of Panwar, Punyapal, and defeated and killed Hurmat Singh thus capturing the fort of Kundar. Punyapal was later married to Sohanpal's daughter Hemavati. Sohanpal's successors, Sahajendra, Nanakdev, Prithviraj, Ramchandra, Mednimal, Arjun Dev, Malkhan Singh, and Rudra Pratap ruled over Bundela State from Garh Kundar before the capital was moved to Orchha.

The Bundela State was spread across the present-day states of Uttar Pradesh and Madhya Pradesh. The state was further divided into smaller states like Orchha State, Panna State, Jhansi State, and the many share in the map

Orchha, in the local language, means 'The Hidden Place' and stands for its name. It's quite easy to miss this historical treasure but once there it will definitely mesmerize you (provided history fascinates you). The story of Orchha is beautifully presented in the evening light and sound show. One of the best I have seen so far. In 2020, this historic town was included in the Unesco heritage sites list.

LOCATION

Country: India
State: Madhya Pradesh

HOW TO REACH

The closest airport to Orchha is Gwalior (about 110km) 

Khajuraho airport/station is about 180kms. 

The closest station is at Jhansi which is roughly 18-20 km away. Autorickshaws and rented cars are available from Jhansi railway station. 

Bus service is also available for Orchha. 

New Delhi is approximately 450 km from Orchha.

Bhopal is about 290 km from Orchha.

We went to Orchha from Khajuraho by road. It took us almost 3 hours

WEATHER and WHAT TO WEAR

It's mostly warmer to hot in Orchha. Light cotton would go well. During winter, early mornings and evenings may get colder and it's advisable to carry a light jacket. 

BEST TIME TO VISIT 

Anytime is a good time to visit Orchha though summers are extremely hot and winters are mild.

WHERE TO STAY and WHAT TO EAT

Though there are very few restaurants and hotels in Orchha, it does offer a variety of options to choose from Budget hotels, Sheesh Mahal heritage hotel, MPTDC guest house, homestays, and camps with tents along the Betwa river. Remember it's a small town and one won't find the same amenities as in big cities.

PLACES OF INTEREST 

Places of interest in Orchha. The Entry tickets are available at Orchha Fort for all historic monuments

1. The Royal Chattris

The Chattris are cenotaphs, the memorial tombs (the actual body is buried or reinterred elsewhere) of the Bundela rulers. There are a total of 15 chhatris dedicated to the 15 of the following rulers in chronological order of rule: Bharti Chandra, Madhukar Shah, Ram Shah Bundela, Vir Singh Deo, Kripa Ram Gaur, Jhajhar Singh Bundela, Pahad Singh Bundela, Sujan Singh Bundela, Indramani Bundela, Jaswant Singh Bundela, Bhagwant Singh, Udait Singh Bundela, Banka Umed Singh (Governor of Bundelas, a family member), Vikramjit Singh, Dharmapal Singh, Sujaat Singh, and, Sawant Singh.

The largest cenotaph belongs to King Sujan Singh Bundela and it's built in Nagar style, The domical Islamic style cenotaph on the left belongs to Vir Singh Deo. The rest of the temples are built in Panchayatana style.

The Chattris or Cenotaphs on the banks of the Betwa

Vir Singh Deo's (Large one) and Kripa Ram Gaur's (Small one) Chattris are seen on the extreme left.

The Rajput Nagara style Chattris named Left to right - Sawant Singh (only a tiny part on the extreme left seen) Bhagwant Singh, Jaswant Singm Pahad Singh, Madhukar Shah (a tiny part on the extreme
right seen)

The location of the 15 cenotaphs

2. Jehangir Palace

Jehangir Palace was built by Veer Singh Deo in honor of Mughal Emperor Jehangir who visited Orchha for a day. It was built in a hybrid of Mughal and Rajput styles which is called the Bundela style of Architecture today. Veer Singh was Jehangir's Vassal and he had orchestrated the murder of Akbar's grand Vizier Abul Fazl at the request of Jehangir. In return, Jehangir helped Veer Singh Deo become the king of Orchha by replacing Ram Shah Bundela, son of Madhukar Shah Bundela who was the rightful heir to the throne and had ruled for a brief period. Ram Shah was given the state of Chanderi Jagir (smaller state of Bundela State)

The Jehangir Palace was built by Veer Singh Deo in the early 15th century

3. The Raj Mahal

The Raj Mahal was started by King Rudra Pratap and completed by his successor King Bharti Chandra and later renovated by King Madhukar Shah in the mid-16th century. It was the residential palace of the Bundela Kings. This palace was also built in the Bundela style - a mix of Mughal and Rajput architecture. Today a part of the palace has been converted into a heritage hotel and a restaurant. The food was decent.

The Raj Mahal Palace, as seen from the Jahangir Palace. The Raja Ram temple, the white monument, and the silhouette of the Laxminarayan temple can be seen at the far end. 

4. The Chaturbhuj temple

The Chaturbhuja temple is a Vishnu temple built by King Madhukar Shah Bundela and his wife Ganesh Kumari. Initially, the temple was meant for Lord Rama but after the Queen's palace, built next to it was converted to the Raja Ram temple, the Chaturbhuj temple was then established as a Vishnu temple. This temple is built in the Nagara style with a high platform and tall shikhara. As the name indicates, the temple has four extended corners. Chaturbhuj means four arms.

The top View of the Chaturbhuj temple shows the four, arm-like extensions

The Chatrabhuja temple, as seen from the Ram Raja temple

5. Ram Raja temple

The uniqueness of this temple as told by the locals is that, here King Rama is worshipped and not Lord Rama. It's a shrine devoted to the human form of Rama. The temple was King Madhukar Shah's wife Queen Ganesh Kumari's Palace which was later converted into the Raja Ram temple. Legend has, that King Madhukar worshipped Lord Krishna but his wife worshipped Lord Rama. After a friendly banter between the two about the legitimacy of Lord Rama, the queen decided to visit Ayodhya and bring along proof of Lord Rama's existence. She returns with a baby claiming him to be the child form of Lord Rama. The queen had plans to establish the temple of Lord Rama in the Chaturbhuj temple she had started constructing before leaving for Ayodhya but the baby Rama said, he would take abode where he was first seated, the Queen's palace. Supposedly the baby turned into an idol and fixed itself there. 

The story also has a funny extended version. It is said initially the idol was in a standing position and the queen would offer prayers to the idol in a standing position but then she would get tired and exhausted, so the idol had pity on her and decided to sit down so that the queen could offer prayers without feeling tired :) Honestly, I did find the story quite amusing but no offense meant for those who believe in it.

6. Lakshminarayan temple

The Lakshmi Narayan Temple was built by Vir Singh Deo. As the name says, it was dedicated to Lord Vishnu and his Consort Goddess Lakshmi. The temple is not like the typical north Indian temples. It is influenced by Islamic Architecture and has a fort-like design with domical roofs and towers on four sides. 

Ram Raja Temple, as seen from the Jehangir Palace (White building with domes), Lakshmi Narayan Temple seen on the far right

7. Sunder Mahal

Sunder Mahal was built by Prince Dhurbhajan Singh, son of King Jhajhar Singh. He was in love with a Muslim girl and faced resistance from the royal family for their marriage. After this, he gave up his royal life, embraced Islam, became a hermit or fakir, and spent the remaining years of his life as a saint but married his beloved against his family's wishes. He was venerated by both the Muslim community. His abode Sundar Mahal became a hermitage and to date, it's a popular pilgrim place for muslims.

8. Dinman Hardaul Palace and Phool Bagh

The Palace and garden were built in memory of Hardaul Singh, who was the younger son of Vir Singh Deo. Vir Singh's elder son Jhajhar Singh was the ruler after Vir Singh's death. However, Hardaul was the most popular with the people among the two. The jealous Jhajhar fell for the rumors spread by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan who was conspiring against the Bundelas, that there was a clandestine affair between Hardaul and his wife. He ordered his queen to poison Hardaul to prove her innocence. When the queen informed Hardaul of the same, the heartbroken Hardaul drank the poison himself thus honoring the queen. He was deified after his death and was called Lala Hardaul. Even to this date, he is worshipped and songs called Hardaul songs are sung in Budelkhand. The Songs dedicated to him tell the story of his life and the many stories of the Bundela rulers. 

Another legend has it that after being refused help by her brother Jhajhar, Princess Kunjawati in desperation prays for help from his dead brother during her daughter's wedding. Miraculously, Hardaul's spirit helps her, and even attends the wedding. Many locals believe Hardaul is still alive or his spirit is present in Bundelkhand. It has become customary to invite Hardaul to weddings and seek his blessings. The first wedding invitation card is addressed to him.

9. Rai Parveen Palace 

Rai Parveen was the beloved of Madhukar Shah's youngest son Indrajeet. Indrajeet Singh was the ruler of the Kachhaua Estate, near current-day Gwalior - a part of the Bundela State. While on his daily rounds, one day Indrajeet comes across a beautiful girl performing Bhajans and dance. He was so enamored, that he offered to take her back to his palace and take all responsibilities for her education and her training for music and dance. The girl, Puniya came from a very poor family and the father accepted the offer without any hesitation. Puniya grew up in the palace. She was trained as a court dancer and singer. Her voice was so melodious, that she was called the Nightingale of Orchha. She was rechristened as Rai Parveen. Over the years Indrajeet and Rai Parveen grew to love each other but the Royal family forbade their union. Indrajeet then built her a palace close the the Raj Mahal.

Her beauty was known all across the region. The then Mughal Emperor, Akbar also heard about her. He called for her and asked her to perform in his court. The Bundelas could not refuse the powerful Akbar her audience. Rai Parveen consented and performed in Agra, at Akbar's Court. After the performance, Akbar summoned her to his royal chamber. Rai Parveen knew the Emperor wished to spend a night with her. She requested the emperor to answer a question first. Emperor agreed. She sang a song that translated as "The leftovers of an upper caste are picked by the lower caste, the leftovers of the lower caste are eaten by the crows, and the leftovers of the nobles are fed to the dogs, the emperor belongs to which category?" She implied, that she was taken and belonged to another, so why would an emperor want something that belonged to another. Akbar took it in good humor and sent her back to Orchha with due respect. However, on returning from Agra, something bothered Rai Parveen, and unknown to all she took her life. Consumed by her death, Indrajeet, fell into deep depression and died shortly after. Their story also is sung by the locals in the form of ballads like the Hardaul songs.

10. Wildlife Sanctuary and gardens

Orchaa Sanctuary is home to many animals, exotic birds, and medicinal plants and some of them are on the endangered list. The animals and birds found here include Chital, tigers, leopards, nilgai, jackals, bears, peacocks, langurs, and many others. This region is also home to endangered vultures and has been listed as one of the vulture conservation areas. The Critically Endangered, long-billed vultures, white-backed vultures, and Egyptian Vultures are found here. These vultures have nested over many of the monuments here, particularly, the Chaturbhuj temple, the cenotaphs, and Ramnagar gate. The renovation of the monuments had led to loss of habitat for these rare birds and now, strict rules have been imposed that vultures and nests cannot be killed or destroyed. Vultures and scavengers are crucial for the ecosystem since they feed on rotting bodies and carcasses which if left untended or disposed of properly will spread diseases like rabies and anthrax.

We headed back to Delhi by road Via Jhansi

Ken Ghariyal Sanctuary And Raneh Falls

Lake, seen from a viewpoint

The Ken Gharial Sanctuary is located at the confluence of the Ken and Khuddar rivers in the Chattarpur district of Madhya Pradesh. This is one of the 4 main Ghariyal (the long-snouted crocodile) sanctuaries of India, The National Chambal Sanctuary being the largest one. Gharials are the last survivors of the Gavialidae class and are found in the Indian subcontinent only. Due to habitat loss, the decline in fish production, and poaching for skin they are on the verge of extinction and are listed as the critically endangered species of the world. They are a riverine keystone species and important for the balance of the freshwater system since they bring the river nutrients to the surface and help in the primary production of fish. *A keystone species is a plant or animal that plays a unique and crucial role in the way the ecosystem functions. Without keystone species, the ecosystem would be dramatically different or cease to exist altogether." (source: internet)

In monsoons, this canyon is partly underwater

The sanctuary has restricted access because of an accident a couple of years back. A group of students at the waterfall didn't get enough time to come back to safe grounds when water was released from the barrage next to the sanctuary. After the tragic accident, visitors are not allowed to go near the waterfall. There were also reports of crocodile and gharial attacks on visitors bathing at the waterfall. 

(Picture taken during monsoons Source: internet)

Ken Gharial Sanctuary can be accessed from Khajuraho (24 km away) and from the Panna Tiger Reserve. Autos, taxis, and motorbikes can be hired at Khajuraho. An autorickshaw or a tuk-tuk charges around Rs. 600 for a round trip from Khajuraho. Taxis will charge a little more and bikes will charge a little less. If one can bargain well, the fare can come down to Rs. 500. I shy away from haggling but in India, one must master the art of bargaining. It saves a lot, especially for a backpacker, even a teeny bit is huge. 

Raneh Falls

The sanctuary is located in a deep canyon possibly formed by volcanic activities millions of years back. The deep green water of the lake amidst the layered light and dark igneous rocks make the place absolutely picturesque. Though the larger waterfall was hardly visible from where we stood, the little that we could be no less appealing. We went there in late November, hence the water in the lakes and canyons was scanty but photos displayed at the visitor information desk suggested in monsoons, that this place has an entirely different look. Water fills up the canyon up to the level where we were standing then, at least 100 mts up. I can just imagine the raging waters engulfing the entire region. 

Since the place borders the Panna National Forest, visitors can see animals and birds as well. At least sambars, chinkaras (Indian gazelle), chitals (spotted deer), nilgais (blue bull), langurs, and jackals can be easily sighted if visiting early morning or towards the evening.  

But the sad part is because of the limited access to the base of the waterfalls gharial and crocodile sighting is rare. One can try using a guide's binoculars but again luck has to shine upon you. I have been one of those unlucky ones who never saw a tiger in a tiger sanctuary, a lion in a lion sanctuary, an orangutan in an orangutan sanctuary, or a gharial in a gharial sanctuary. Well, a zoo or a reserve has been my best bet so far, unfortunately. But I haven't given up hope as yet. Someday I might just get lucky. 

Well, animal sighting or not, a few hours at this place wouldn't be a waste. It's beautiful. 

Panna National Park, From Zero To Twenty Two

The Golden Camouflage - The Chital (Chitrala in Sanskrit meaning Variegated) or Spotted Deer. These are native to the Indian subcontinent only. They are widely seen in most forest reserves in India, Bangladesh, Srilanka, Bhutan and Nepal

And then the sun lit the world

We started for Panna National Park at 4ish in the morning in a Safari jeep shared with another couple, booked by the hotel we were staying at in Khajuraho. It was late November and pretty foggy. I wasn't carrying a jacket and the chill had almost gotten under my skin; almost to my bones ( idiom aside I meant it literally) but the anticipation of getting lucky this time to sight a tiger after several failed attempts before, kept the cold at bay.

We arrived at the park within an hour.  It was still dark when we passed through a dense deciduous stretch of Sal, tendu, acacia, bamboo, arjuna, and other trees I don't know the names of. The only wild creature I noticed was big yellow Nephila, the Golden silk orb weaver spiders (I think that's the species), resting in the center of their giant intricate arty webs. For once I felt even creepy arachnoids can be beautiful. My antique camera couldn't capture a very clear photograph in the bad light from a moving jeep. That's the umpteenth time I reminded myself, that it's time to replace my good old buddy of 10 years (I seem to hold on to the silly misconception that even inanimate objects have feelings).

As the jeep drove deeper into the forest, we could hear the rustle of trees suggesting animal presence but none came close enough to be sighted. Am sure the animals are well aware of the safari trails now and keep a safe distance. Sigh :(

As if to complement the vermilion of the rising sun, the vegetation changed to a stretch of open dry grassland, a beautiful golden hue blanketing the earth. Impeccably camouflaged in that yellow lea were the first animals we saw, the golden spotted deer or chital as they are called in Hindi. Honestly, having seen deer so many times; even once, almost accidentally driven over one in Sioux Falls on my way to the badlands, I should have been more nonchalant but excitement surged in at the very sight of those elegant bucks, at least some animal on a tiger safari if not a tiger itself.

Moving on, the jeep re-entered a stretch of denser forest where we met some langurs and sambars but a tiger !!! nopes!! the guide said a tiger was sighted just the day before. Yes, that's what happens always, tigers are sighted the day before or the day after but not on the day. Someday perhaps!

On the safari trail

From Zero to Twenty-Two:

Parts of the Panna National Park originally belonged to the royal family of Panna. In 1981 it was taken over by the government for the conservation of the big striped cats. When counted in the early 2000s, the park had some 30-40 tigers but by 2009 the number shockingly dropped to zero. It was a huge blow for the Tiger conservationists and the park authorities. What caused such a catastrophe for the cats!? A report was published soon after thorough investigations of the shocking revelations, which suggested that some cats died a natural death after a 15-year life span, some were killed by the local villagers while protecting their livestock, some were poached by tiger smugglers, and some fell prey to revenge machinations of dacoits against local authorities. Additionally, the environmentalists blamed the diamond mines in operation in the region for endangering the tiger habitat. Ironically, most of the mines were shut down by 2009. The mining companies retaliated claiming the tigers died after the mines were shut down proving mines were not damaging the animal's habitat. The battle continued and all mines were ordered to shut down by 2016. 

Meanwhile, the park authorities decided to bring tigers from Pench to help breed them again at Panna. It was a risky proposition since relocation often causes emotional damage to the relocated animal. There was the danger of losing the relocated animal as well. The risk however was taken and it successfully paid off amidst many challenges. There is a heart-wrenching story about a relocated male tiger, who was so homesick that he walked almost 200 miles, halfway back to Pench before getting tracked by the Park authorities.  I wonder how helpless he must have felt on being brought back to a place he didn't belong to. Who knows what he was missing, who had he left behind in Pench, and why he wanted to go back. As animals, they cannot express their feelings and we take them for granted :( Well! eventually, the project of relocating the tigers worked for Panna, and currently, there are about 22 tigers in the park. A feat the park is mighty proud of :)

Back on the tiger trail

The effort is still on and Panna is doing a great job with better resources and hi-tech equipment that they didn't have years back. The major threat is the poachers and the local villagers and the park authorities have become extra vigilant to keep an eye on their 22 cats. Today, all the cats have radio collars, through which the forest guards and patrolling officers receive transmissions. A normal transmitter reading is 60 beats but if this reading drastically increases or decreases the tiger trackers get alert. They track the tiger through GPS and provide the required assistance. The trackers work 12-hour shifts. A couple years back two unmanned flying drones were also installed for tracking them.

Tiger conservation in India has definitely come a long way and successfully strode forward. Tigers habited 23 countries in the past but now they can be found in 11 countries only. Cambodia and Vietnam are the recent two countries to announce the extinction of this species from their forests. Laos, Thailand, Malaysia, Myanmar, Bangladesh, Russia, China, Nepal Bhutan, and Indonesia are the only remaining countries where tigers can still be found other than India which is the home of 70% of the world's wild tigers. These big cats need enough space food and protection from poachers to survive and multiply and this could be achieved in India because of extensive tiger conservation awareness projects, community participation, passionate conservationists, and forest officers and guards.

A well-spent afternoon by the Ken

As for us, we didn't see the striped cat eventually. Toward the end of the safari, we had a lovely time basking in the winter sun by the Ken River. There are options for boat rides also but we decided to head back instead; we were completely famished. On the way, we stopped at Ken Forest Lodge, very close to the national park for breakfast. The food was good and we even had an interesting chat with a young forest guide. A science graduate and an ardent animal conservationist who had come to Panna for a vacation from Bangalore fell in love with the place and decided to stay back at the lodge, as a forest guide. It's interesting to meet such passionate people for whom work and passion do not conflict. Who chooses to do what their heart chooses to do. Was truly inspired. From there we headed back on towards Khajuraho but took a little diversion to the enchanting Pandava Falls. A decision we didn't regret. I had plans to check out the Jhardova rock paintings as well but the driver couldn't locate them. Perhaps, giving us a reason to come back.

Long-tailed Hanuman Langur are Old world monkeys native to the Indian subcontinent

LOCATION:

State: Madhya Pradesh

Country: India

HOW TO REACH:

Panna National Park can be best reached from Khajuraho which has an airport and a railway station. The park is about an hour away from Khajuraho by car. One can hire a safari jeep from Khajuraho.

WHAT TO WEAR:

Light cotton is good since the weather is mostly warm. For winters a jacket is a must, especially if taking the early morning safari. 

WHERE TO STAY:

The park has its own resort. Plus there are other resorts close by. Many stay in Khajuraho.

Sambar is a large deer native to South and South-East Asia. Currently, it is on the endangered list due to hunting and habitat loss.

A Stop-Over At Pandav Falls

Pandav Fall

Pandav Falls is located 35 km from Khajuraho, in the Panna district of Madhya Pradesh. Its serenity holds an allure that I think should not be missed if visiting Khajuraho or Panna. I noticed some reviews that go against this statement but again beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder. We went there in late November on our way back to Khajuraho from Panna National Forest.  There were very few people. A quiet hidden desolate place. The fall is not particularly grand but the green-ness of the lake gives it a peaceful ambiance and an ethereal feel. We went there without expecting much but were pleasantly surprised that even a small unassuming place could hold so much beauty. 

There is a parking fee of some 200 bucks for Indian citizens, 1000+ bucks for foreign nationals, and a guide fee of 60 bucks. You can avoid the parking fee by keeping the cars outside the fall premises. It's a short walk to a stream and then some 160 steps down to the lake and caves. Those with weak knees may find the climb pretty tedious since the steps are very steep. 

A stream (distributary of Ken River I assume)

The legend goes, that the Pandavas (from the epic Mahabharata) camped here during their exile. There are five temples built by the five Pandavas. Interestingly, I saw small Shiv temples (5 in number built by the Pandavas in Diu). There is a thin stream of the waterfall called the Draupadi fall which is believed to have magical powers :). Locals believe if a couple drinks the water from this fall, their relationship is sealed for 7 lives :) Is that good or bad is the question :P? In later years, this place was used as a rest house for Kings who came to Panna to hunt tigers.

Shiva linga at Gangeshwar temple built by the Pandavas in Diu near Fudam Village

Shiva temples built by the Pandavas

Draupadi Falls

The place is clean but the caves are dilapidated and visitors are prohibited from entering them. The natural caves from the supposed Mahabharata era are hidden behind the hunting rest areas built by the kings in later times. Other local legends say, that during the Indian independence struggle, freedom fighter Chandra Shekhar Azad and his friends used this place as their secret hideout.

Hunting rest houses for Kings

Crimson Marsh Glider

Since the fall is surrounded by dense forests, the area is frequented by leopards, tigers, and bears, usually at night unless someone is very lucky/unlucky to meet one face to face.  One may meet groups of langurs but they usually shy away from people and do no harm. These forests are one of the oldest in India and have trees almost 100 years old. Nature enthusiasts would definitely find interest in the flora and fauna here. I saw many golden silk orb weaver spiders here, beautiful yet intimidating.

Large black and yellow Nephila spiders are supposed to be the largest orb weavers almost up to 3 ft in diameter

Nephila, Golden Orb Weaver 

From a particular viewpoint, the lake/ pond/ kund looks like a heart. I heard a guide point it out to a newlywed honeymoon couple adding a touch of romantic air to the place. Well, I say stop over for a couple of hours and you won't be disappointed (at least most of you).

Heart-shaped Draupadi Kund

Arunachal Pradesh, The Land Of The Dawn Lit Mountains

Tourist destinations in Arunachal Pradesh

LOCATION

Country: India

State: Arunachal Pradesh

Arun in Sanskrit means the 'first rays of the sun' or 'dawn' or the reddish hue of the dawn. Achal means 'mountains'.

MAIN CITIES AND TOWNS (of tourist interest)

1. Itanagar, the administrative capital of this state
2. Bomdila
3. Tawang
4. Ziro
5. Roing
6. Guwahati/Dispur, the capital of Assam is the main entry port of Arunachal.

HOW TO REACH 

One needs inner line permits to enter Arunachal Pradesh. The Inner line permits can be obtained from Arunachal Bhavan in Delhi, Kolkata, Shillong, Guwahati, Tezpur, Dibrugarh, and Lilabari. For Indian nationals the form + inner line permit fee is Rs. 5+ Rs.25. The application requires two passport-size photographs and a copy of Identity proof. All females married and single are required to provide a permission/no objection letter from their Father/Spouse/Local Guardian.

Address:

1. Resident Commissioner, Government of Arunachal Pradesh, New Delhi, Arunachal Bhawan, Kautilya Marg, Chanakyapuri, New Delhi.

2. Deputy Resident Commissioner, Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, Kolkatta, CE-109, Sector-1, Salt Lake City, Kolkatta.

3. Deputy Resident Commissioner, Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, Guwahati, Rukmini Gaon,  R.G. Baruah Road, Guwahati-781021.

4. Deputy Resident Commissioner, Govt Arunachal Pradesh, Shillong, Pin-793001, Meghalaya.

5. Deputy Resident Commissioner, Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, Parvati Nagar, Tezpur, Assam.

6. Deputy Resident Commissioner, Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, Mohanbari, Dibrugarh, Assam.

7. Deputy Resident Commissioner, Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, Lilabari, North Lakhimpur, Assam.

By Air

The nearest airports to Arunachal Pradesh are:

1. Lilabari, Assam. Itanagar is about 2 hours from here.
2. Tezpur, Assam. Helicopter services to Tawang are available from here as well.
3. Guwahati, Assam
4. Shillong, Meghalaya

By rail 

Harmuty is the nearest railway station to Itanagar.
Other railheads close to the Arunachal border are Dibrugarh, Tezpur, North Lakhimpur, Jorhat, Tinsukia, and Guwahati.

By road

The final entry into Arunachal is by road. Either by buses or private/rented vehicles. Assam and Meghalaya is well connected to Arunachal through Bus services and Trekker services.

WEATHER and WHAT TO WEAR

Arunachal weather ranges from very cold tundra climate to tropical climate depending on the area being traveled to. The highest at the foothills in peak summer could go up to 40 C and the lowest at the foothills could go up to 15 C. At higher altitudes, it gets pretty cold even in summer. Monsoons are pretty much wet all across the state.

It is advisable to carry a mix of woolen and cotton when planning a statewide trip.

WHERE TO STAY and WHAT TO EAT

Most places in Arunachal have decent hotels and restaurants. In smaller villages the choices are limited. There are homestays and food mainly consists of rice, vegetable, meat, and fish.

ACTIVITIES 

Trekking, Site seeing, Scenic drives, boating, river rafting

PLACES TO VISIT

There are about 10 tourist circuits in Arunachal

1. Tenga, Bomdila, Tawang Ciruit via Guwahati and Tezpur 
2. Itanagar, Ziro, Daporijo, Aalo, Pasighat
3. Roing, Anini
4. Namdapha National Park via Margharita
5. Aalo to Mechuka
6. Ziro to Koloriang
7. Pasighat to Tuting
8. Seijosa, Itanagar, Doimukh, Segalee. Seppa
9. Daporijo to Siyum
10. Tezu to Hayuliang via Tinsukhia

STORIES

1. Mr. Bell