Tuesday, July 19, 2022

14 Days In Thailand And Cambodia With Visa On Arrival

Koh Hong Islands in Phang Nga Bay

Our Thailand trip was a sudden decision. It was December 30th and impulsively we chose a destination that gave visa on arrival and was a short flight. Air Asia had a good last-minute deal luckily. Our journey started with an early morning flight from Delhi. By 9:00 am on December 31st, we were at Bangkok airport.


At the airport, we went through the immigration process and received the on-arrival Visa. The immigration officer was kind, though we did not have a hotel booked he didn't question us much and filled Novotel's address in the form. The paperwork was simple. Luckily we had a passport photo which is mandatory for a visa on arrival. After stamping the visa, we exchanged some Bahts at the currency exchange counter at the airport. We didn't have to look for them, there are many kiosks near the immigration section.
 

Day 1:

We had no plans, no hotel bookings, and no idea where we wanted to head. We decided to have a hearty breakfast and then figure out our way forward. Randomly, walking through the airport, we reached the airport bus terminus. There were some restaurants and cafes at the terminus. We were hungry and we wanted to start on something that was authentic Thai. The lady at the counter suggested a shrimp omelet and minced chicken rice platter. Trust me it was one of the best stuff I ever had or perhaps I was way too hungry!

Suvarnabhumi Airport Bus Terminus

After the scrumptious meal, we pulled out our phones to plan our next destination. We were about to buy tickets to Bangkok City when a bus stopped at the bay right next to where we were sitting. The bus was heading for Aranyaprathet, at the Cambodian border. Since a Cambodia visa was also available on arrival, we decided to go to Siem Reap first. Point to mention here, we were smart enough to opt for a multiple-entry Thailand Visa. 

Aranyapretha is a tiny town, we reached there after almost 6-7 hours. It was almost 6:00 pm in the evening when the bus reached its final destination. The town was quite desolate, maybe because it was evening and stores were ready to shut down in a couple hours. We picked a decent-looking hotel close to the bus terminus. The hotel was small but very clean. They had just one room available on the 4th floor and had no lifts :( The climb up with our heavy bags turned out quite a task. The room was tiny, neat, and well done. The best was the tinier toilet with a mustard yellow WC :) I loved it. I was so awed by the yellow WC that I forgot to even take a photograph. When I returned to Delhi, one of the first things I did was look for a mustard yellow WC which I did not get to date :( still on my bucket list.


Day 2:

Early the next morning, the hotel arranged for an agent, who helped us get our visa at the border and arranged for our pick up across the border. We did not have extra passport-size photos, so we had to get those at the visa office and it cost us 5 times the cost. Advice to be noted: Always carry at least 10 sets of passport-size photographs when traveling abroad. You never know when you need them. The Visa process at the border was not quite a cakewalk! We had to walk a lot, it was crowded, long queues and too warm for winter. Almost took 2 hours. The walk to Poi Pet, Cambodia was about 30 minutes. Not sure if I would take this route again :) At Poipet, we exchanged Riels.  A vehicle arranged by our agent in Aranyapretha then took us to Siem Reap. We went and booked the hotel suggested by the driver. The hotel was good and just minutes away from the night market, and Angkor vat.

Sunrise at Angkor Vat

We stayed in Siem Reap for two days. Will share details in a separate post. 

Day 3:

On Day 3 we went to Angkor Vat and Ta Prohm. We were at Angkor Vat at 4:00 am. It was crowded. Everyone waited eagerly with cameras for capturing the magical sunrise. I certainly didn't do a good job :( We spent almost half a day at the temple complex. There's lots to see and perhaps a day is too less. 

We spent the second half of day 3 at Ta Prohm and the temples near it. I loved Ta Phrom. It has a haunting allure. The tall silver cotton trees add to the eeriness.

At night, we had a lovely Cambodian dinner and a walk through the night market.


Day 4:

On day 4 we went to Phnom Bakheng at 4:00 am to watch the sunrise there. It was as crowded as Angkor Vat. We headed back to Bangkok by road with a group of other tourists on day 4. We reached Bangkok's most famous street Khao San Street at midnight. Looking for a hotel at the hour makes for a separate post will share later.

Watching Sunrise and hot air balloons from the terrace of Phnom Bakheng

Angkor Vat



Ta Phrom


Night Market at Siem Reap


Emerald Buddha at the Grand Palace of Bangkok

Day 5:

We spent Day 5 in Bangkok. We walked around the City. Most of the day was spent exploring the Grand Palace. It is indeed grand! I loved the detailing and intricacies of the architecture of the temples and palaces in the complex. Spellbinding!

In the evening we came across an ad about a 7-day Scuba certification course in Koh Tao. As impulsive as we were, we decided to go for it. We enrolled in the course and headed for Koh Tao that evening. An overnight bus took us to Chumphon. We reached early morning.


Koh Tao

Day 5-8:

From Chumphon, a ferry took us to Koh Tao. The transfers were all a part of the package. Koh Tao is a beautiful island and it was one of my most memorable stays. The resort was beautiful. We were given a cottage close to the beach. Classes for the certification started the same day. Three days went by great. On the fourth day, we realized we were not ready for scuba diving. Our swimming expertise was not enough, rather we had no expertise :P The instructor said it would be risky for the entire team. So our course and stay was cut short. The agency refunded, 3 days stay booked at the resort. We decided to head for Phuket.


Sunset at Koh Tao

Day 9:

On day 9 we reached Surathani after an 8-hour journey on a sleeping boat. The story of the journey from Koh Tao to Surathani is shared in a separate post. We took a bus from Surathani to Phuket. The route was through a forest area and it was pretty scenic. We booked a hotel within walking distance from Patong Beach. We spent day 9 at the beach and the market at Patong.


Patong Beach in Phuket


Day 10:

On day 10, we booked a Phang Nga Bay tour. It was a whole day tour and we hopped on three to four islands at the bay and also took a canoe ride to the ice cream caves. This region has spectacular karst formations - Karst Topography in South Thailand

Ice Cream Caves, Phang Nga Bay


Day 11:

On Day 11, we booked a tour of the Raya Islands. It is a beautiful island with pristine clear blue waters and white beaches. 

Komodo Dragon in Raya Island


Shoal of fish at Raya Beach

Day 12:

On day 12 we headed back to Bangkok. We had run out of money and had just enough for a bus ticket and a loaf of bread. It was a long journey of 15 + hours by bus.


Mirrored Yaksha (demon) at the golden temple at the Grand Palace in Bangkok

Day 13:

We spent Day 13 in Bangkok. We received the refunded amount from the scuba agent which we spent on shopping :) The market in Bangkok has quite many interesting stuff, from wigs to coconut artifacts to beautiful handicraft decor items. Not to mention Ikat fabric and clothes.

Day 14:

We headed back to Delhi.


7 Days In Sri Lanka

Our road trip in Sri Lanka was nothing short of picturesque 'All-In-One' - We got the seas, the mountains, and the historical ruins in just a week

The Sri Lanka trip was unplanned like most of my other trips. The impromptu decision was taken over a cup of coffee at Vellore during a visit to a Doctor friend at CMC, Vellore. The next day we took a cab from Vellore to Bangalore airport. Our flight was in the late evening, so we took an easy 5-hour journey with long breaks. When we visited, Indian passport holders could get an on-arrival visa, hence visa wasn't an issue. We converted some cash at the Airport in Colombo though we made most of our payments through cards. Currently, Indian passport holders need a visa to enter Sri Lanka and this can be easily processed online and tourists can get up to 30 days of stay permit.



We booked our hotels on the way to the Bangalore airport. We didn't have much time to research so just went with the top suggestions online which turned out pretty good. Our plan was to stay a day at least in one of the beach towns and then cover the Cultural Triangle or the Golden Triangle since we had only a week. The Cultural Triangle is a UNESCO World Heritage site that encompasses the three ancient cities of Sri Lanka, Kandy, Polonnaruwa, and Anuradhapura which formed the seat of powerful Sri Lankan Kingdoms that laid the foundation of modern-day Sri Lanka.

Our trip destinations

The Cultural / Golden Triangle
Day 1

Our first stop from Colombo, the capital of Sri Lanka was Bentota. A small beach town that has some of the clean pristine beaches of this beautiful island country. We booked our stay at the Taj Bentota, the perfect beachfront resort. Absolutely loved the hospitality, food, and the location of the resorts. Bentota is close to some of the other popular beaches and close to the UNESCO site of Galle Fort which is about an hour's drive away. 


Taj Bentota

A room with a view
Day 2

The Taj Bentota concierge helped us get a car with a driver to take us on a tour of the Cultural Triangle. Our initial plan was to island hop on the second day but instead, we decided to head for Kandy, our first Cultural Triangle destination via Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage.


The Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage is an Elephant conservation institute that not only rescues elephants but also helps in breeding and giving them a home. There is a small petting zoo as well.


We booked our stay at Chaya Citadel in Kandy, now Cinnamon Citadel. Again, a lovely resort by the Mahaweli Ganga River. There is a small stretch of forest area around and we could see herds of elephants from our room.


A room with a view

The beautiful Mahaweli Ganga River and the forest surrounding it from our room.
Kandy is the Sacred Hill Capital of Sri Lanka and rightly so.

Places of interest in Kandy and close to Kandy. Kandy is a UNESCO Heritage site because of many historic monuments and relics which are culturally significant to the heritage of Sri Lanka

Kandy Lake as seen from the Old Royal Palace

Sri Dalada Maligawa (meaning Temple of the Tooth), The Temple of the Sacred Buddha Tooth Relic (The left canine tooth of Buddha). It is a local belief that whoever gets the relic will have the reigns of the country. The Sinhalese Kings held it for the longest time.

The story goes, that the tooth relic was originally in possession of the King of Kalinga (present-day location in Orissa, India). The tooth moved a few cities with the change of kings and their capitals. Tooth relic temples were built very close to the Royal Palaces to give them the highest level of security and protection. The cities include Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa, and Dambadeniya among many others.

The Sacred Tooth was smuggled from the Indian Kingdom of Kalinga via the sea route from Tamralipta / Tamralipti (present-day Tamluk - a river port on the Ganges River) to the seaport of Lankapattana (Current day Ilanketurei, Trincomalee)

Legend of the Sacred Tooth Relic

It is said that Lord Gautam Buddha, at one point, felt that Buddhism may not survive in India and he declared Sri Lanka as the seat for this religion and it indeed was for the last 2500 years. In order to shift the base of the Buddhist relics, the tooth was smuggled into the Kingdom of Kalinga by Prince Dantha and his wife Hemamali. They disguised themselves as Brahmins and escaped India through the Ganges port of Tamralipta. The relic was cleverly hidden in Hemamali's hair ornament. 

In Sri Lanka, they landed at the seaport of Lankapattana and were received by the Sirimeghavanna / Kirti Sri Meghavarna / Kithsirimevan. He became the first custodian of the Relic and built the first Tooth Temple in Anuradhapuram. After his reign, the tooth moved to many other capitals, finally to rest in Kandy, its current abode.

Day 3

On the third day, we explored Kandy and visited the Royal Palace, the Royal Botanical Garden, The Kandy Lake, and The Tooth Temple among many other places. In the evening we also saw a cultural show.

Royal Botanical Garden, Peradeniya

Bahirawakanda Vihara with a large Buddha statue in the 'Dhyana Mudra' or the meditation posture built in the 1970s is one of the newer attractions close to the Tooth Temple

We watched a cultural show in the evening of the third day which included many traditional Sr Lankan dance forms including the fire dance

Day 4

On the fourth day, we headed to Chaya Habarana Village, now Habrana Village by Cinnamon. This resort, built next to Habarana Lake with beautiful cottages has an eco-village ambiance. On the way to the resort, we stopped at the Hindu temple Sri Muthumariamman Temple. The rest of the day was spent by the lake in the resort.

The private lake shore of Habarana Lake at the Habarana Village




Sri Muthumariamman Temple is dedicated to the Goddess of rain and fertility Mariamman. The temple was built by salt traders, Nattukotai Chettiar of Chettinad (located in Tamil Nadu, India)

The Golden Buddha at the Aluvihare Serugala Rock Cave Temples. It's pretty close to the Mariamman temple. The uniqueness of this statue is its hand posture. It is in the double 'Abhaya Mudra' posture which is the only one of its kind that I have seen of Buddha statues. Abhaya Mudra indicates reassurance or protection.

Day 5

On the fifth day, we visited Dambulla and Sigiriya which are significant sites of interest in the cultural triangle.


Places of interest in Dambulla and near Dambulla

Dambulla Buddhist Cave Temple. This group of five caves dates back to prehistoric times. A burial site very close by at Ibbankatuwa was discovered with skeletons dating as far as 2700 years. The caves were later used by Buddhist monks. King Valagamba took refuge in these caves when his throne was usurped by the King's army general Kammaharattaka. Later he successfully retrieved his back and converted the caves into a temple as a token of his gratefulness. This cave temple complex is the second largest in South Asia after the Ajanta caves complex in India

The cave temple facade

The Golden Buddha Statue in the 'Dharma Chakra Mudra' or Wheel of Law posture at the base of the cave temples is a more recent addition. The construction started in 1998 and completed in 2001.

Sigiriya Fort was built such that it was not easy to break in. With two layers of strong ramparts, a deep moat, several secret passages, and caves, it was perhaps not an easy task to reach the royal palace built on a high summit. It is said, that after King Kashyapa murdered his father and usurped his throne, he moved his capital to Sigiriya to build a strong fort in fear that his half-brother Moggallana, the rightful heir of the throne, would return to seize his throne!

Lions Paw in Sigiriya, also known as Sinhagiri which means the Lion Rock. The history of Sigiriya has many different versions. Some historians believe Sigriya was the fortified capital of King Kashyapa 1 while others believe it was built by King Dhatusena, father of Kashyapa, and was used by Kashyapa as a pleasure palace. Legends say, Sigiriya was King Ravana's palace built of gold and designed by the god of wealth Kuber.

Sigiriya cave frescoes

Base of the Cobra Hood Cave - Parumaka Naguliyana Lena. The cave had frescoes at one time 

The mirror wall which used to have polished plaster with a mirror-like finish

Day 6

On the fifth day, we went to Polonnaruwa early in the morning.  It took us half a day to explore the old ruins. After sightseeing Polonnaruwa, we returned to the resort, picked up our luggage, and headed for Anuradhapura. By evening we were back in Bentota. While we managed to cover most of our planned itinerary, the travel on the last day turned out very hectic. Ideally, two days would have worked best. My Polonnaruwa photos were ruined due to a mishap which damaged my camera:(((


Places of interest in Polonnaruwa

Places of interest in Anuradhapura



Samadhi Budha in the meditation posture with 'Dhyana Mudra' at Anuradhapura



Ruwanweliseya Pagoda in Anuradhapura

Jetavanaramaya, ancient stupa in Anuradhapura

A Bengal Monitor Lizard we saw at Anuradhapura

Standing tall at 122 m (400 ft) this stupa built by King Mahasena is one of the tallest structures of the ancient world 

Day 7

On the seventh day, we went to the nearby beaches and Galle.  Our return flight was at night from Colombo.

Bentota Beach

At the resort on the last day of the beautiful journey