Three Seasons In Yellowstone National Park - The Summer

Yellowstone is one of my favorite holiday destinations. It is an active volcanic park and one of the most exotic destinations in the world. An absolute must for a nature lover. Wanting to fulfill my idiosyncratic wish to enter this volcanic extravaganza from all its five gates, I went back to the park a year after my second visit. This time in summer and through the East gate.

"Nothing ever conceived by human art could equal the peculiar vividness and delicacy of the color of these remarkable prismatic springs. Life becomes a privilege and a blessing after one has seen and thoroughly felt these incomparable types of nature's cunning skill." - Yellowstone expedition's leader, Ferdinand Hayden (Source)

'Next to the motel we lodged at, was a quaint house on a hilltop. At first glance, Edward Scissorhand's castle flashed in my mind sans the snow of course. It had an eerie magnetism about it. An engineer's unfinished dream, the Smith Mansion in Wapity Valley is an example of unique artistry. Francis Smith had started this project as a house for his family but soon lost himself entirely to the madness of building it (such as the story explained by the motel owner). He single-handedly pieced every part of this five-storied fantasy. Whether it was bringing the partial fire-damaged lodgepole pines from the nearby rattlesnake mountains or designing the fairy tale dining table, shaping the giant swing, crafting the elkhorn door knobs, or constructing the elegant gable roofs, day after day for 12 long years he dedicated himself to this solo task. There was also a little love story attached to the legend and this solitary insane involvement. It is said, that so deep was Mr. Smith's love for his wife, that when she separated from him, he directed all his devotion and energy to build this dream project with such intense passion that even his death came from a fall while working on a balcony during one of the crazy westerlies visit, Wyoming is (in)famous for.'

. The Story. 

So, our summer trip to Yellowstone happened on the July 4th long weekend. We planned to base our trip from Cody, Wyoming. We started our drive from Fargo and it took almost half a day to reach Cody via Billings, Montana. 

On our way to Cody, we were literally chased by a storm. We could see the dark clouds following us with great speed while the radio kept announcing storm alerts. That was one interesting race. Well we did eventually escape it by taking shelter in a small town deli. 

We booked a hotel on the outskirts of Cody since all lodges in the park were already booked due to the peak holiday season. Lesson learned: If planning to stay in the park, plan ahead and book ahead, particularly during national holidays and summers.

'Most scenic 52 miles in the United States' was quoted by President Roosevelt for the 45-minute Buffalo Bill scenic byway drive from Cody to Yellowstone, through the gorgeous volcanic Absaroka range. I would second Teddy Roosevelt anytime. The drive indeed was spectacular. If not the best, it definitely was one of the best. 

Lake Yellowstone which is a part of the Yellowstone caldera is one of the first features one meets when entering through the east gate. 

Map of the main geyser basins in Yellowstone National Park. It doesn't include the Norris Basin in the northwest, which I could not visit during this trip.

West Thumb Geyser Basin with a glimpse of the Yellowstone Lake. 

The Old Faithful is one of the tallest geysers in the world erupting up to a height of about 185 ft. In fact, I had the notion that it is the tallest till I learned at the park that the steamboat geyser in the Norris basin is the tallest shooting up to a height of about 390 ft, though extremely irregular and unpredictable thus, conferring the more frequent and predictable Old faithful the position of being the most popular. The last major eruptions of steamboats were witnessed in 2013 and 2014.  List of the tallest geysers in the world.

Quite by accident, we met a Bullsnake in the upper geyser basin. We were told this snake is aggressive but non-venomous and is the largest snake species in North America. It has a unique skin pattern and is easily identifiable. Black/brown/yellowish stripes on top and three layers of black/brown spots on both sides. Usually, these snakes are 4-6 ft long. This one was almost 5 ft long.

We met herds of bison and elks in Lamar Valley. This particular bison was the largest of the lot.

Sapphire Pool, Excelsior pool, Turquoise pool (left to right, above), and Opal pool are some of the most exotic pools of the middle geyser basin. The exquisite colors of these hot spring pools are due to the varied layers of microbial mats in these basins, the varied depths, and the varied levels of temperature. The spectral reflection depends on the optical absorption by the mats and scattering by the water and the incident solar and diffuse skylight conditions (as explained by a study conducted by Montana State University). One of the most dramatic plays of colors is seen in the largest hot spring in the park, the Grand Prismatic Spring.  It is one of the popular hotspots of the park.

Grand Prismatic Spring

Opal pool

Shell Geyser

The Excelsior geyser was the second tallest geyser in the world spouting up to a height of 300 ft. but after its major eruption in 1890, it has not spouted very high. Many of the tall but unpredictable geysers are located in the western Norris basin, (which I couldn't visit during this visit), the lower basin, and the upper basin.

Jewel Geyser

There is a collection of smaller geysers like shells and jewels in the biscuit basin, which is one of the most volatile and unpredictable basins in the park. It's been so named because of the biscuit-like deposits around the geysers.

Paint pots

Firehole waterfalls

The lower geyser basin is the largest basin in the park and has some popular attractions like the Great Fountain geyser which can unpredictably shoot up to 230 ft. We missed the geyser eruption but it is a predictable geyser and spouts over 200 ft. There are many mud pools, paint pots, and hot springs in this basin as well. Further west from this basin are the Fire hole waterfalls.

Firehole river along the Midway Geyser basin

The Angel 'travertine' terrace of the Mammoth hot springs. 

A beautiful sunset on our way back through South Dakota

Three Seasons in Yellowstone National Park - Winter - North gate >> Part 1

Three Seasons in Yellowstone National Park - Fall - South gate >> Part 3 

Three Seasons In Yellowstone National Park - The Winter

Mammoth Hotspring

'It had snowed and most of the southern routes in the park were closed. My friend accidentally drove our car into an unpaved, wet mountain trail hardly wide enough for a car. I was pukish, dazed, scared out of my wits. My anxious stare fixed itself straight ahead, hoping against hope that the bad stretch would end and the road would widen but to my utter dismay, the road kept getting steeper, narrower, and wetter. I found my pulse racing as the trail reached a sudden dead end. A snow track meant for snowmobiles lay ahead of us with a big warning sign, 'Do not loiter, wild animals around'. A black bear instantly paid a visit to my already terrified thoughts and before I could voice it aloud, I noticed my friend attempting to take a three-point turn. 'Jeez, is he out of his mind? There's not enough room?, horrified, I blurted out, 'STOP!! I want to walk back. I was late by seconds, he had already made the move. Stupefied, I surveyed the mountain on one side and the deep canyon on the other while my nervous hands clutched onto his jacket, my eyes wide open and my last breath stuck in my throat. A teeny weeny mistake and we might never be found. There was a slight skid on the snowy sludge and I went blank. Surprisingly, my friend remained calm and composed. He seemed to be in absolute control of the car, he had no choice but to be and I am grateful he was. I was a nervous wreck :P The next many minutes were one of the longest and scariest in my life. Miraculously, his remarkable display of sangfroid brought us back to safe ground.' 

One of my favorite places on earth is Yellowstone National Park. Seated on the Yellowstone caldera, the largest active supervolcano of North America, it is the first national park in the USA and one of the first in the world. It had been a silly wish of mine to enter the park through all its five gates. I could manage three gates in three seasons so far. My first visit to the park was in late February when only the North gate through Gardiner, Montana is kept open. 

We traveled by road from Fargo, North Dakota, via Theodore Roosevelt National Park, Medora, North Dakota, and Billings, Montana, and returned via Mount Rushmore and the Badlands National Park, South Dakota. It was a 17-hour drive from Fargo to Gardiner including the breaks at Billings and Theodore National Park. Of the five-day vacation, we stayed three days in Gardiner and one day in Rapid City, South Dakota on our way back.

The Majestic Rockies

Mount Rushmore, South Dakota

The Roosevelt Gate, North Entrance to Yellowstone

The green section of the road is open all year round and the only section accessible in winter. Parts of the other roads are open only to Snowmobiles and Snow vehicles.

Elk, Big horn sheep, and the Pronghorn

A Mule doe, a Bison herd, and a Bison

The winter visit meant lots of animals, probably because there were fewer visitors compared to summer and autumn or maybe we just got lucky. We saw a black bear, a red fox, a bald eagle from a distance, and herds of bison, elks, pronghorns, mule deer, big horn sheep, and also black-billed magpies. 

One of the major attractions of the park is the Mammoth Hot Springs on Travertine Hill. It is one of the largest complexes of hot springs. The white, orange, red, and green formations with bubbling steam are one of nature's magnificent wonders.

Travertine terrace with orange-yellow sulphur melts

The Mammoth Terrace is the world's largest calcium carbonate-depositing spring

From the park, we drove down to Cooke City, a small town of barely 10 families. This town can be accessed, only through Yellowstone's north-east gate all year round and between May and October from the east through Beartooth highway, which is considered one of the most scenic routes in the US. Beartooth Pass remains open for only 5 months a year because of its high elevation and snow blocks. It is the only route to enter Yellowstone through the North-east gate.

Lodgepole pines (Pinus contorta var. latifalia - these pines are twisted in other parts, hence the nomenclature 'contorta' but the rocky mountain variety grows straight) make up 80% of the canopy in Yellowstone. Interesting article on why the forest fires are important in the park: article

Scenic drives to Cooke city

       

Yellowstone River on the way from Gardiner, high sulfur content makes the water yellowish. The early French trappers who discovered the Yellowstone geothermal region, named it roche jaune (yellow rock) and hence, the name Yellowstone.

Soda Butte, an extinct geyser

Most of the park's geothermal basins and the caldera are located in the south and are accessible only after April depending on the weather and road conditions but that does not make a winter trip futile. Yellowstone is nature's treasure trove. Absolutely breathtaking. One can spend time in nature's gorgeous lap, camping, trekking, or animal sighting. There are a few lodges in the park, which should be pre-booked or one can stay in lodges in the entry port towns. We stayed in the Gardiner entry port for the north entrance. We regretted not camping. Perhaps next time. Someday I would love to come camp in an RV :)

The valleys and...

...the creeks

Three Seasons in Yellowstone National Park - Summer -  East gate >> Part 2

Three Seasons in Yellowstone National Park - Fall - South gate >> Part 3 

Mandawa: Still Trying To Survive; Flaunts Its Rajwada Days

Flying through times immemorial

Mandawa is a tiny village town in northeastern Rajasthan. Had it not been for PK and Bajrangi Bhaijaan (two Hindi blockbusters of recent years) and my Aunt who suggested it, I would have, perhaps, never known about its existence. The village town showcases a blend of Moghul and Rajasthani art and ostentatious havelis, many of which have been turned into heritage hotels, while many are dilapidated and lost to the pressures of changing times. PS: (Rajwada (royal abode) is a Marathi word..a more appropriate Rajasthani term is 'Haveli')

A Whited throated Kingfisher greeted us on the way near Jhunjhunu. There are three suggested routes on Google Maps. We took NH8, via Gurgaon, bhiwadi, neemrana, narnaul, jhunjhunu. Preferably avoid this route. The road through Narnaul village is pretty bad and the entire travel took us more than 6 tedious hours.

Some sunsets  are unforgettable... the sanguine sky as we entered Mandawa

A Good Misty Morning To Mr. Crow at the Desert and Dunes resort in Mandawa

Not yet deserted but neglected....we spent the day haveli hopping 

The once upon a time rich flamboyant havelis, cry the tales of deprivation and penury

While the affluent owners have moved to bigger cities leaving behind their once grand havelis to fend for their fate, the poorer ones continue to live under the shadows of old glory 

Looking for open doors

Mandawa Haveli to Heritage Hotel

Keeping the tradition alive - Grandma embellishing lac bangles

For sale - A piece of history

The Mandawa Royal Palace - A heritage hotel but on the higher end. A day tariff starts from 10k 

As development encroached!

The terrace line

The central courtyard

An age-old method of keeping water cold

Vibrant with colors, puppets, and paintings  

Detailed paintings found their way under sills as well

We had a scrumptious Rajasthani meal here. Interesting to know. The cook went to the market after taking the order. The food was prepared fresh. They served it after 2 hours but tasty nevertheless. 

The end of the weekend getaway

The DDLJ 'Sarson ke khet' - Long stretches of mustard fields mesmerize

The end of a beautiful weekend - heading back 

The journey should take about 5 hours without traffic and bad roads.  The Narnaul route took us more than 6 hrs but the beautiful mustard fields made it worthwhile.