7 Days In Egypt : Giza, Cairo, Luxor And Aswan

Egypt was a dream come true. It was on my bucket list for ever so long waiting to be ticked. When COVID hit the world, I decided, that if things were coming back to normal, perhaps we should plan Egypt. Also, my mother wanted to see the pyramids while she was still fit enough to travel.

The Sphinx, The Pyramid of Khafre or Chephren (right), and The Pyramid of Menkaure (left)

We flew Kuwait Airways from Delhi to Cairo via Kuwait City. This is not a sponsored blog as is very obvious, but I can vouch for Kuwait Airways. Have taken it a few times and the service and food were more than good. In fact, I loved the Arabic food on the way to Cairo. The flight to Kuwait was about 4.5 hours. We were not asked for COVID clearance, but as a precautionary measure, we got ourselves tested and carried the COVID-19 negative certificates and vaccination certificates. We had a layover of four hours in Kuwait. The airport is not crowded, well serviced, has good food outlets and has free internet. Lounge facilities are good too but we didn't use them. There was no requirement. Over all the layover was not inconvenient.

Tourist Visa Requirements from India and Italy : 

As of December 2022, the Visa process from India and Italy is as follows:

From India: 

Required documents: 

1. Visa form (available on their Facebook page ) The consulate website is not quite user-friendly. 

2. Flight Tickets

3. Hotel bookings

4. 6-month bank statement. 

5. NOC from Employer (not mandatory)

6. 3 years IT returns (not mandatory)

7. Cover letter

8. 2 passport-size photos

9. 2 copies of the first and last page of the passport

10. Original passport

11. Guarantee letter from a travel agent in Egypt. This was clearly asked by the person who answered my call to the Delhi Consulate. They are prompt in answering calls. All visa-related queries are answered after 1:00 p.m. 

I think E-visa is possible from India but I am not entirely sure if it can work without a valid guarantee letter. The Guarantee letter was actually the most tricky part since I had already booked my flight tickets and hotels and had planned a certain itinerary. Most travel agencies, I approached for the letter, wanted me to buy their package, which included their itinerary and their choice of hotels. After a tedious search and a lot of inquiry on random forums on TripAdvisor and booking-dotcom, I came across Ahmed, a travel agent based in Cairo, who agreed to provide me the guarantee letters at a cost of $35 per person without me having to book anything with him. However, as a courtesy, I did tell him, I would prefer to book any tours or services, if required, from him. Since I was traveling with aged parents, I didn't want the hassles of transportation and tour guides in Egypt. Therefore, I went ahead and booked Ahmed for transportation and a tour guide for the sites I had planned to visit. It actually worked out pretty good for us, He provided us with a good AC car and guided us to all the places of interest I had planned. 

Those who do not wish to opt for tour guides and transportation services from agents can opt for Uber or Careem while in the city. Or get transportation services from the hotels they book with. However, I heard a lot of haggling happens in Egypt for car services within the cities ( I didn't have to face it since I had pre-booked my entire trip).

Coming back to the Visa process, as noted, getting the guarantee letter was the most difficult part of the process. The rest was pretty smooth. I applied at the Delhi embassy: 1/50 M, Niti Marg, Chanakyapuri, New Delhi, India, Delhi. We submitted the documents at a counter next to the entrance gate of the embassy.  It is open Monday - Friday 11-1 for visa-related work. I suggest calling them a day before to confirm the timings Phone number: 011 2611 4097.

The submission process took less than 5 minutes. The person at the counter checked the documents. Took a payment of Rs. 2700 per person for the application (Rs.300) and Visa (Rs. 2400). Shared a receipt and asked us to collect our passports after 5 days. We collected the Visa and passport on the 5th day at the same counter. Took us less than a minute. There was no crowd at all. I suggest carrying cash for the payment. I didn't see any ATMs close by and I am not sure if other modes of payment are accepted.

From Italy:

The process from Italy was a little different. Some of my family members live in Italy and they applied for the Visa at the Milan Consulate. They were asked to apply for authorization first. The authorization process required them to submit a form available on their website. Additional documents required are mentioned on the website. Tickets and hotel bookings are not required before authorization is approved. Also, they are prompt in answering calls and emails for queries and questions.

The authorization approval took over a month and multiple follow-ups. Due to the holiday season in November and December, the paperwork took longer than usual, I guess. After the authorization approval, they were asked to apply for the visa. The authorization approval is a guaranteed visa. Tickets and hotels may be booked after approval and copies are required during visa application. I don't think a guarantee letter is required when applying from Italy but we still got them to avoid any kind of hassle later. E-visa option is available from Italy. The option is mentioned on their website but the staff at the consulate were not aware of the e-visa process and had no clue that it existed also!

To sum it up, other than the guarantee letter, the visa process is pretty simple and hassle-free.

At Cairo International Airport

Cairo has four terminals. T1 is the old airport and is the terminal for budget airlines and non-star-alliance airlines. T2 is for international flights, mostly non-star-alliance flights again. T3 is Egypt Air's hub and is the terminal for Star Alliance flights and domestic flights run by Egypt Air. T4 is a seasonal terminal used only for Hajj passengers. Kuwait Airways flight arrived at T2 since it is not a Star Alliance partner. We noticed unlike all airports I visited, Guides are allowed into the airport, and they receive their respective tourist customers right at the immigration area. My family members flying from Italy landed at T1 and they were received by our tour agent. Due to some issue with my phone, I could not connect with the agent when we landed in Cairo. Also, the wifi at the airport is unpredictable. Rather it didn't work on my phone at all. My family members in the T1 terminal were able to use the airport wifi. 

Immigration was smooth. However, we had issues at the exit. It was crowded and chaotic, and there were charges for trolley carts which I never faced in any airport. I don't know if I was lied to or actually, it is charged. There were limited carts and somebody literally took away my cart and said it's paid for. I realized travel agents have men working at the airport, and it's kind of managed entirely by them. 

One irritating part of Egypt that we faced right from the beginning was being asked for money (in dollars - minimum 5 dollars) for any and everything. I think they will ask for money to even give the direction :) Guess, that's the way it is! It was an experience for the first time. Somebody came and picked up our luggage and put it in the baggage check-in belt at Aswan airport, we didn't ask them to - we were doing it ourselves. My sibling thought it was an airport worker so maybe to hurry things up he was helping us, but after putting one suitcase on the belt he asked for 5 dollars. It is my advice, do not let anyone come to your aid if you do not need it. Not for clicking pics, taking directions, etc, etc. We spent a good amount on just tipping for unnecessary stuff. 

Do keep some Egyptian pounds in cash for use at the airport. It will be useful when buying a SIM card. There are stalls for various mobile services in the exit lounge. Charges were pretty high, it is best to get international roaming but well, may depend. It is better to do a comparison when planning for your trip. I was able to contact our agent and my other family members once I got the new sim. We wasted almost an hour trying to get the phone working. My suggestion is to get international roaming at least for a day cause airport wifi may or may not work.

Currency:

US dollars are in great demand there. Most transactions happen in USD, if not in Egyptian pounds, We carried some Egyptian pounds from India but realized it was a bad decision and a huge loss. It is wise to convert the dollars in Egypt since the exchange rate is best there due to logical reasons. Euros work as well but are not the best option. Cash is preferred, though card facilities are available in most hotels, airports, and ticketing booths. However, local stores and restaurants may not have card facilities.

Weather:

We were in Egypt in late January. The weather was decent. Mornings and evenings were pleasant. A light jacket was handy. Afternoons did get extremely warm but a cool breeze once in a while gave good relief. I carried loose ankle-length cotton wear with long sleeves and scarves to cover the face. Yet I returned with burnt cheeks! Sunscreen is an absolute must. 

Places of interest:

Day 1: Giza

7 days are too short to cover all the important sites of Egypt. At a minimum 14 days are advisable. 

We planned to stay in Giza for the first two days since visiting the pyramids was our first priority. On the first day, we stayed at The Great Pyramid Inn, which is next to the Light and Sound show site. We watched the show from their rooftop restaurant. In fact, you can see a big part of the pyramid complex from the rooftop restaurant. The hotels on that lane are small budget hotels but neat and clean and really next door to the Sphinx. There are two entries to the Pyramid Complex one on the Sphinx side and the other near the Great Pyramid Side. This entry is close to the Mena House Hotel. It's a Marriott hotel and has a beautiful view of the Great Pyramid. On day 2 of our trip we moved to Mena House. It was pricey particularly because we went during peak season but was worth the stay.

Day 2: Giza

On day 2 we moved to Mena House. The main entrance to the Pyramid complex was just 2 minutes away. We got the tickets at the counter. The entry tickets to go inside the pyramids need to be taken here. Once you are in, it will be a long way back to buy the separate entry tickets into the pyramids. It's best to plan out way ahead whether you want to go inside the pyramids or not. Our guide suggested going inside the Pyramid of Khafre if we had to make a choice of one. We went ahead with that.

We walked to The Great Pyramid which is pretty close to the Ticket counter. Cars, horse carriages, and Camels are allowed in the complex. We traveled in a car. We also took a horse carriage ride and some of my family members took a camel ride to the Panoramic View hilltop. It's a small Hill, from where all the pyramids can be seen. It was definitely worth the $50 we spent. Well, once there, we stopped thinking about the money we were spending, since it was a once-in-a-lifetime trip and yes we knew Egypt was going to be the expensive one.

Will share the details of the Giza and Saqqara trips on Day 2 in a separate post.

Entry Passes for places of interest

It's a good idea to purchase the Cairo Pass and the Luxor Pass if planning to stay in Egypt for a long time and there's ample time to visit every single monument and tomb. The math works out well considering the entry tickets for tombs in Luxor can get quite expensive. Students get 50% off on the passes and if one purchases the Cairo pass, they get the Luxor Pass at a 50% discount and vice versa. When we were there, the Cairo Pass was $100 and Luxor Regular Pass was $100 and the Luxor Premium Pass was $200. Hence, getting the Cairo first and then the Luxor one works better. These passes are valid for 5 days. One needs to carry crisp dollar notes, copies of Passports (2 sets each for each pass), and passport-size photos. It's best to carry it from the home country since getting photocopies and photos in Egypt will get pretty expensive. Both passes are available in the Cairo Ministry of Antiquities. It might take a few hours to get both passes from the Ministry and should be planned accordingly. 

Cairo Pass is available at the Pyramids Complex Ticket Center. Luxor premium and regular passes are available at the Ticketing Center of Valley of Kings.

We did not opt for the passes, because we didn't have enough time to cover everything in just a week.

Day 3: Cairo

On day three, we toured Cairo and flew to Luxor in the evening. We went to the National Museum of the Egyptian Civilization where most of the mummies are preserved. Then we visited the historic districts of Cairo, also called Islamic and Coptic Cairo. I was about to give these a pass but that would have been a big big mistake. Will share separate blogs on both. I think if you are in Cairo you should not miss them.

If one has time, a train ride or a cruise to Luxor wouldn't be a bad idea. I heard it's a beautiful scenic route. We flew Egypt Air for all internal trips. Cairo to Luxor was a 1 hr flight. Luxor is a small tourist town and its domestic airport is pretty small. We were perhaps on the last flight that day. Due to some communication issue with our Hotel's pickup, we ran into a bit of inconvenience getting to the hotel late at night (everything in Lusor closes by 8:00 pm or earlier). People here start their day early and all temples and tombs open by 6:00 a.m. and close by 4:00 p.m. / 5:00 p.m. in some cases. At 9:00 pm, the airport was pretty deserted but then thankfully, we got a taxi. We were a teeny bit apprehensive in the beginning but the driver turned out quite friendly and got us safely to our hotel. The 30-minute ride took us $35. 

I had booked a West Bank hotel since I wanted to stay closer to the Valley of Kings and Queens. The hotel was lovely but a little difficult to locate. it was on the banks of the Nile and was built in Nubian style. I totally loved it. Djorff Palace is away from the main City but gorgeous for a stay. 

Day 4: Luxor

Day 4 started really early. We wanted tried to squeeze in as much as possible in one day. Well honestly, not a good idea but when time is a constraint and you are not sure if you can make a second trip again, there's no other option. The Valley of Kings and Queens opens at 6:00 a.m. and we kind of reached around 8:00 a.m. We wanted to visit the tomb of Nefertari, which is open to a limited number of visitors a day, and were told tickets get sold pretty quick. So, we decided to go to the Queen's Valley first. It was surprisingly almost empty. The entry fee is 100 EGP, which allows entry to any three tombs excluding Nefertari's tomb which costs 1400 EGP. Honestly, Nefertari's tomb was the best of all tombs in the Valley of Kings and the Valley of Queens together. Absolutely recommended.

From the Valley of the Queens, we headed for the Valley of the Kings. It was as crowded as can be. The entry fee is 260 EGP and allows entry into any three tombs excluding the three below which have separate entry fees:

1. Seti I - Tomb KV 17 - 1000 EGP 

2. Tutankhamen - Tomb KV62 - 300 EGP

3. Ramses V and VI - Tomb KV 9 - 100 EGP

We bought the entry ticket and the three additional tickets. I think they were all worth it. If I had more time, I would have covered the other tombs as well. I can never get enough of anything historical :)

By the time we completed the 6 tombs in Valley of Kings, the afternoon sun was scorching hot and we were exhausted. 

Still, we decided to head for the Mortuary temple of Hatshepsut. My legs didn't want to move at all but I literally dragged myself. I didn't want to miss a thing! And one should not miss the Temple of Hatshepsut. She is THE ONLY FEMALE PHAROAH EVER! and THE ONLY FEMALE RULER whose tomb gets the privilege to be in the Valley of Kings. For those times it was more than an achievement!

From there we headed to a local restaurant for a local lunch. It was scrumptious. After the late lunch, we were back to the hotel. The sun was still up, so some of the family members decided to go have a swim at the pool. By evening the temperature was pleasant again.

Details of Day 4 will be shared in a different post.

Day 5: Luxor

Day 5 started early again. We went to Luxor temple, followed by Karnak Temple, then we headed for Aswan. On the way, we stopped by the Edfu temple. The drive to Aswan was through the western desert road and it was beautiful. Details will be shared in a separate post. At Aswan, we stayed at the Benben Hotel, built on an island on Lake Nasser. Lovely hotel. I do recommend it!

Day 6: Abu Simbel

Day 6 started, at the earliest. We took a boat to the City at 4:30 a.m. Then a morning flight to Abu Simbel. Egypt Air has a to-and-fro package flight to Abu Simbel. Starts at 8:00 a.m. and reaches Abu Simbel around 8:45. An airport bus shuttles the passengers to the temple site. Waits for 1:30 hours and shuttles them back to the airport for the return flight at 11:55 a.m. 

One can also drive to Abu Simbel which takes about 4 hours one way.  Honestly, the flight was a little too hectic and I suggest, staying at Abu Simbel instead of Aswan. I I had to plan it any differently, I would have, flown to Abu Simbel the day before. stayed there overnight. Visited the temple at a slow pace without having to worry about missing the flight back. Anyway, Aswan doesn't have a lot to see unless one is an Agatha Christie Fan:) The Philae temple, the obelisk need barely half a day. The Aswan Dam tour and the Nubian Village tour weren't worth in my opinion, We spent 100 EGP for Aswan and $60 per person for Nubian Village, honestly, it was a total waste. I would suggest giving it a pass. This is the only bit I regret spending on! Will share the details of Day 6 in a separate post.

Day 7: Cairo

On the last day, we were back in Cairo. We didn't do much. Just lazed around. We stayed at Novotel, Cairo airport. It's just a 10-minute ride to T1 and T2. There is a free shuttle service from the hotel every 30 minutes. Our flight back to India was in the late afternoon. We flew back on the same route we came on Kuwait Airways via Kuwait.

A Short Tryst With The Mountains

Where Journeys end, stories begin

During a trek to a remote, mystic monastery, I stopped over for a month at a tiny village in Zanskar Valley. The hamlet, felt like the last point on earth, beyond which lay miles and miles of barren mountains - majestic, immovable, invincible yet ever changing! Once in a while random adventure seekers trekked across them, enduring all the adversities, of a rough terrain inhabited by snow leopards, for that ineffable, glorious feeling of having triumphed over the untamed.  Aware of my limitations, I contended myself by capturing the breathtaking experience in my camera.

Some days, the mountains were cloaked behind layers of cottony clouds waiting to reveal well-kept secrets. Some days, the peaks glistened with fresh dust of snow while romancing the sunrays kissing them. Some days, they looked dry, barren and lifeless as if in mourning. Yet other days, they looked like a surreal painting on a bright blue canvas.  The mountain-scape kept changing, mysterious, intimidating to sublime and alluring.

The mountains spoke a story of change.  Change, they say is inevitable but not everlasting. It brings with it the apprehension of letting go the known yet it gives the thrill of discovering the unknown.

Alice In Ladakh

“While nature can mystify, architecture can stir the soul”

A few years back, in my process to heal after a certain personal setback, I had decided to hit the road for a solo soul search. The lone trail led me to the mystical ‘land of passes’. What began as a sudden whim, eventually, turned into a magical journey of amazing discoveries.

Some wise soul had once said, “you don’t need magic to disappear; all you need is a destination”. Ladakh is one such thaumaturgic destination.

Traveling and healing are connected in a weird way. Traveling may not be a panacea but it does bring positive changes in perspectives. A place as beautiful as Ladakh, with its many untouched, unexplored, ethereal, exotic locales, possesses the magical charm to heal and rejuvenate.  Its natural beauty is beyond comprehension; almost a painting on a life-size canvas and as amazing is its architectural splendor.

Being an architect, monasteries and particularly their architecture, caught my attention.  Whether it was the secluded, spiritual cave temples of Zanskar or the colorful, vibrant gompas of Indus or the tall statues of Nubra, Ladakh revealed a rich treasure trove of art and architecture. The breathtaking clay and wooden edifices ensconced amidst the rugged Himalayan terrains and gorgeous, clear azure sky presented a surreal spectacle hard to find anywhere else on earth (and I literally mean it).

….

“There is a place. Like no place on Earth. A land full of wonder, mystery, and danger!” said the maddest Hatter

“That is impossible” Alice replied flaunting her 7 and a half-year-old attitude.

“Only if you believe it is! Every adventure requires a first step” snubbed back the hatter.

…..

If I am Alice, Ladakh is my wonderland. Fairy tales do come true - Where Journeys end, stories begin.

La Citta D'amore - Venezia

The Closure  - A Short Story

“Hey, so you went to Venice? Found these photographs in the old album."
           "Hmm"
"When?”

Not sure. Long back.”

“Interesting!! Did you know.......”

“ Know! What ?”

“Ummm!! Never mind.....just silly!”

“Hmm! I'm going out with my team now. Should be back in a few hours. Be prepared with a good story!”

“In your dreams, Sir :P !! I have an exam in a week. Ciao”

“Fine see you in a week then.”

“Hey, am not studying 24/7 for a week! Sean!! You there? Sean??? Sean? Why are you so difficult sometimes -?”

Sean never returned. His photographs adorn her room. The many beautiful moments that she still lives for. Her friendly young neighbors surprised her with a 90th birthday cake that morning. Birthdays, that she had stopped counting after that fateful day that took away an irreplaceable part of her.

In her quivering voice, she said, ‘I didn’t tell him that day. He would've laughed like he always did when he found me childish." She turned towards the photograph of a fairly handsome guy perhaps in his late 20s, with deep-set eyes, squarish face, crew-cut hair, and tanned complexion, "You were standing in front of St. Mark’s statue, waving at the camera with that silly grin of yours. Your shy smile imprinted in my heart forever. "..And...did you know..." her voice trailed, "..... that girl in polka dots looking at you? Millions of tourists click the same photograph at that same spot. Would you feel the same oneness with every single person in those millions? Perhaps not. I couldn’t tell you that day. I was scared! Not of you but of me! I was scared of the feeling and I was scared to reveal it." 

She coughed as her frail body, now all bones, trembled. The veins showed through the thin light skin. With her shaky hands, she lifted a photo frame kept on the side table. There were two photographs. One had the same young man and the other a pretty bubbly girl waving at the photographer much the same way. The girl in the polka dot! a stark familiarity one couldn't ignore. 65 years hadn't changed those deep blue dreamy eyes. " I love Venice. I loved it, the moment I stepped out of the train, walked out of the station, and saw the water sparkling in the sun. Unbeknownst to you, that’s where I had seen you for the first time. I have a photograph at St. Mark's waving at the world and at you... Had you noticed me?’

She was about to keep the frames back when it slipped from her hand and crashed into pieces. She carefully picked the photographs, noticing a scribble she had failed to see before. Her weak eyes could barely read a word. She hobbled back to the desk for the magnifying glass.

'You were lovely in the pink polka dots, Rosa. It took me four years to find the blue-eyed gal I had waved at in Venice. Happy Birthday!'  Sean

"..And it took me 65 years to find that you knew it all the while." A drop of tear sealed the closure.

 

On our last night in Venice, standing alone on Rialto Bridge, I looked around. I saw a guitarist strumming an old classic, a young girl selling flowers, and groups of young students (I assumed) partying on a ferry passing by. A very old couple climbed up the stairs towards me. They may have shared decades of togetherness! My hopelessly romantic mind immediately spun stories. It was all around them, in their smiles, in their eyes, in their holding of hands, in their slow quiet saunter - there seemed to be no hurry, no time fleeting away, it was their night together and forever. He bought a flower from the cherub flower girl perhaps 9 and gave it to his grace. I was smitten by the two and the idea of a 'happily ever after'.

Still musing on, I chanced to observe a couple (engaged or newlywed I presumed), enjoying a romantic candlelight dinner in a canal-side restaurant. He was trying his best to please her. It was sweet and funny. It may have been an arranged one perhaps! the storyteller in me wondered. The rolly polly cute bride was all shy and blushing and the really thin groom was trying every "gentleman-should do" stuff; pulling the chair for her, getting her a glass of wine, giving her a rose, and even clicking photographs of her every move! Sweet, he will gift her a collage this Valentine's Day, the yarn kept spinning.

I guess you might find the same scenes in many other places. Perhaps it was just the moment. Those people around, the beautiful music, the night, the light shining on the water, the stillness yet the crowd, the quietness yet the sound. I also fell in love with Ms. Rosa! For a very brief moment, I missed the company of someone but then the whole ambiance of the place just stole away that feeling...! 

If someone were to ask me "Which is the most romantic place on earth? My answer would have been Venezia - "La Citta D'amore. It can take your breath away."

It’s not like the utopian Swiss paradise or the exotic Caribbean getaway but has a charm unique in itself. Mysterious, alluring, ethereal, a city unlike any other! Venice is like a big live theater and every moving body is an actor. History, mystery, art, and architecture fascinate me and this city has all the necessary flavors, the byzantine edifices, the dark narrow alleys, the masquerade masks, the grand bridges, the winding canals, the traditional gondolas, and romantic Italian music.

Surreal romanticism was built into a tangible form. Well, that’s the closest I can define Venice as. To some, it may seem an irrational exaggeration but I guess, sometimes you come to like something unreasonably over others because something about it makes you feel connected.  

We had taken the train to Venice from Milan, a beautiful journey through gorgeous Italian valleys transiting to the coast. It poured cats and dogs for the two days we spent in Venice with intermittent sunny breaks once in a while ( fortunately!!! ) for the craved photo sessions :)

It's very very easy to get lost in this maze of a city. There are just too many narrow alleys all looking much the same :) Interestingly enough, we couldn't even find our hotel for a very long time. I had a huge bag and carrying it around was quite a task for my small frame. The trolley wouldn't work with the hundreds of steps and bridges (539 bridges to be precise) and yes it's definitely not the place for stilettos. It was a painful mistake, I had made, even after being warned by my well-wishing friends.

Two days are not sufficient for this fascinating place. We had to rush through the fantabulous assortment of basilicas, churches, and synagogues, a total shame :(. I hope to revisit someday at leisure to savor this artistic treat to the last morsel. Like every popular tourist destination, there are shops all over. The Venetian specialty is the Murano glass jewelry and the theater masks. Bargaining certainly works. 

The Legend

Legend has it that if you seek eternal love, a couple must kiss under every single bridge in Venice and under the bridge of Sighs at sunset. The bridge of Sighs or Ponte de Sospiri was built by Antonio Contini in the 17th century. It gets its name from a local story. The bridge connects the inquisitor's room, a part of the Doge's palace, and a prison. The prisoners saw the last of the world at the bridge and sighed before getting executed hence the name! Well supposedly it's more a legend than a fact since by the time the bridge was completed, executions and inquisitions were a history. Some say the bridge got its name after Byron used its reference in his poetic narration 'The Childe Harolds pilgrimage'. 

I  stood in Venice, on the Bridge of Sighs;
A palace and a prison on each hand: I saw from out the waves her structures rise As from the stroke of the enchanter's wand: A thousand years their cloudy wings expand Around me, and a dying glory smiles O'er the far times, when many a subject land Look'd to the winged Lion's marble piles Where Venice sate in her state, thron'd on her hundred isles!'

Samuel Rogers had said of Venice 'There is a glorious city in the sea' and truly it is so! 

Three Seasons In Yellowstone National Park - The Fall

Yellowstone is an active super-volcanic park and boasts a grand display of vivid geothermal features, perhaps the only one of it's kind in the world. As noted in the park website, its a home to more than 10,000 features of which more than 300 are geysers.  With all its spectacular flora, fauna and natural wonders, this park has been given a deserving place in the list of UNESCO world heritage sites. 

West thumb Geyser Basin

The geo thermal features in the park are:

Hot springs: Hot springs are formed when super heated ground water surfaces into a wide pool without any constrictions in its plumbing system. The hot water cools down on reaching the surface and gets replaced by hotter water from below and this cycle continues till someday the water depletes from the ground reservoir or there are constrictions formed in the passage which results in the formation of fumaroles or geysers.  

Source: internet

Geysers: Geysers are hot springs with constrictions in the passage of ground water rising to the surface. The constrictions, usually near the surface, prevent the water from circulating freely. The hot water fails to cool and high pressure steam is formed below the surface which eventually explodes out in the form of a geyser. Water is expelled faster than it can enter the geyser's plumbing system, and the heat and pressure gradually decrease. The eruption stops when the water reservoir depletes or when the system cools down.

Fumaroles in the Mud Volcano basin

Fumaroles: A fumaroles or  steam vents, occur in openings like cracks and fissures in volcanic regions when superheated water (with temperatures as high as 280°F (138°C) vaporizes before reaching the surface due to drop in pressure or due to short supply of water in the underground reservoir. Steam and other gases (often toxic) emerge from the vent, with hissing or whistling sounds like it happens through a pressure cooker. 

Mudpots: Mudpots are acidic hotsprings or fumaroles. Microorganisms convert hydrogen sulfide, rising from the depths of the earth into sulfuric acid, which breaks down the surrounding rocks into clay thus forming a muddy acidic bubbling pot.

Travertine terraces: Travertine terraces are formed from limestone or calcium carbonate deposits from hot springs. 

Mammoth hot springs travertine terrace

Microbial mats and thermophiles: Microorganisms called thermophiles (heat lovers) or extremophiles (lovers of extremity), inhabit the volcanic regions. These microorganisms when clustered together in millions form microbial mats. These microbial mats contribute to the colors of the geothermal features. An article explaining this phenomena.

So, our third visit to Yellowstone was during a fall long weekend after a year of our second visit. We planned to fly to Jackson Hole, Wyoming and then drive down to the park through the South gate via Grand Teton National Park.

Must make a mention, the flight landing in Jackson hole is one of the most spectacular I have ever seen. Its a big regret that I was too mesmerized to click a photo or take a video :(

While the oblivious 'me' was gazing aimlessly out of the aircraft window, the flight in gradual descent emerged out of the dense cottony veil of clouds, swept smoothly down through a sky passage between two snow peaked mountains into the lap of a green grassy bowl surrounded by a tall majestic range. An unforgettable stupendous experience.

The tiny but busy airport of Jackson hole is located amidst the breathtaking Teton range and that makes it one of those exclusive airports with the most beautiful flight landings. Anyone visiting Jackson hole must take the flight experience at least once.

Flight take off at Jackson Hole airport

We stayed in Jackson hole for a day and I thoroughly enjoyed its picturesque locale. The hole part of the name is quite apt. The town, indeed, seems to be located in a hole between the mountains. It is a small, cosy, laid back, peaceful town with a lively downtown and lots of fun stuff.

Early next morning, we drove down to Yellowstone National Park. The scenic drive took almost a couple hours. On the way, we stopped at a viewpoint at Grand Teton National Park, the Jackson lake dam and Reservoir and Lewis lake. The glimpse of Grand Teton National Park was quite impressive and we were tempted to hang around longer but Yellowstone was our primary destination and we had to curb our detour having made the promise to come back later for the Teton experience.

Jackson Dam 

Lewis lake

We stayed at a lodge in the yellowstone park for the next two days. On the fourth day we flew out of Jackson hole to our respective destinations. All three of my yellowstone visits were short weekend trips and that definitely did no justice. There's lots to do, lots to see and its never enough.

Geysers submerged in yellowstone lake

Fishing cone geyser (inactive)

One of my favorite destinations in the park is the lake. Its absolutely gorgeous and I can just sit at the beach for hours doing nothing but gazing and day dreaming :) and I really did that for a while.

Some fascinating features around the lake are the submerged pools and geysers like the fishing cone. 'The name Fishing Cone can be traced back to tales told by mountain men of a lake where you could catch a fish then immediately dunk it into hot spring and cook it on the hook.' - source: wikipedia. 

I was told, that in early 20th century, the park visitors could actually fish trouts in the lake and then cook them in the hot spring but since 1911, this activity has been strictly prohibited. Visitors started clogging the vents of the geysers and springs and disturbed their ecological system. Well, cooking may not be allowed today but canoeing, kayaking and boating are and these are popular activities in the park.

The Grand Canyon of Yellow Stone

 

Brink of upper falls

Brink of lower falls

The grand canyon of yellowstone is another popular attraction of yellowstone. There are many hiking trails around the area leading to the two falls and the yellowstone river at the canyon base. We were short on time but still managed a couple of short hikes. Animal sighting during this visit was limited to the usual herds of bisons and elks. I think one needs to camp around the valleys and rivers for better animal sighting. Next time.... next time :) Thankfully there's always a next time :)

The lake meets the spring

Three seasons in Yellowstone National Park - Winter - North gate >> Part 1

Three seasons in Yellowstone National Park - Summer - East gate >> Part 2 

So I am told, the west entry is the best since it is centrally located and provides access to all parts of the park easily. This entry is closest to Idaho Falls, Idaho. I have not stayed in the park as yet and have yet to visit it in Spring. Definitely this time it will be the West.

Three Seasons In Yellowstone National Park - The Summer

Yellowstone is one of my favorite holiday destinations. It is an active volcanic park and one of the most exotic destinations in the world. An absolute must for a nature lover. Wanting to fulfill my idiosyncratic wish to enter this volcanic extravaganza from all it's five gates, I went back to the park after a year of my first visit. This time in summer and through the East gate. 

"Nothing ever conceived by human art could equal the peculiar vividness and delicacy of color of these remarkable prismatic springs. Life becomes a privilege and a blessing after one has seen and thoroughly felt these incomparable types of nature's cunning skill." - Yellowstone expedition's leader, Ferdinand Hayden (Source)

'Next to the motel we lodged at, was a quaint house on a hill top. At first glance, Edward Scissorhand's castle flashed in my mind sans the snow of course. It had an eerie magnetism about it. An engineer's unfinished dream, the Smith Mansion in Wapity valley is an example of unique artistry. Francis Smith had started this project as a house for his family but soon lost himself entirely to the madness of building it (such was the story explained by the motel owner). He single handedly pieced every part of this five storied fantasy. Whether it was bringing the partially fire damaged lodgepole pines from the nearby rattlesnake mountains or designing the fairy tale dining table, or shaping the giant swing, or crafting the elk horn door knobs or constructing the elegant gable roofs, day after day for 12 long years he dedicated himself to this solo task. There was also a little love story attached to the legend and this solitary insane involvement. It is said, so deep was Mr. Smith's love for his wife, that when she separated from him, he directed all his devotion and energy to building this dream project with such intense passion that even his death came from a fall while working on a balcony during one of the crazy westerlies visit, Wyoming is (in)famous for.'

. It's story. 

So, our summer trip to Yellowstone happened on the July 4th long weekend. We planned to base our trip from Cody, Wyoming. We started our drive from Fargo and it took almost half a day to reach Cody via Billings, Montana. 

On our way to Cody, we were literally chased by a storm. We could see the dark clouds following us with great speed while the radio kept announcing storm alerts. That was one interesting race. Well we did eventually escape it by taking shelter in a small town deli. 

We booked a hotel in the outskirts of Cody, since all lodges in the park were already booked due to peak holiday season. Lesson learnt: If planning to stay in the park, plan ahead and book ahead particularly during national holidays and summers.

'Most scenic 52 miles in the United States' was quoted by President Roosevelt for the 45 minute Buffalo Bill scenic byway drive from Cody to Yellowstone, through the gorgeous volcanic Absaroka range. I would second Teddy Roosevelt anytime. The drive indeed was spectacular. If not the best, it definitely was one of the best. 

Lake Yellowstone which is a part of the yellowstone caldera is one of the first features one meets when entering through the east gate. 

Map of the main geyser basins in Yellowstone National Park. It doesn't include the Norris basin in the north west, which I could not visit during this trip.

West Thumb Geyser Basin with a glimpse of the yellowstone lake. 

The Old faithful is one of the tallest geysers in the world erupting upto a height of about 185 ft. In fact, I had the notion that it is the tallest till I learnt at the park that steamboat geyser in the Norris basin is the tallest shooting upto a height of about 390 ft, though extremely irregular and unpredictable thus, conferring the more frequent and predictable Old faithful the position of being the most popular. The last major eruptions of steamboat were witnessed in 2013 and 2014.  List of the tallest geysers in the world.

Quite by accident we met a Bullsnake in the upper geyser basin. We were told this snake is aggressive but non-venomous and is the largest snake species of North America. It has a unique skin pattern and easily identifiable. Black/brown/yellowish stripes on top and three layers of black/brown spots on both sides. Usually, these snakes are 4-6 ft long. This one was almost 5 ft long.

We met herds of bisons and elks in lamar valley. This particular bison was the largest of the lot.

Opal pool

Grand Primatic Spring

Sapphire Pool, Excelsior pool, Turquoise pool (left to right, above) and Opal pool are some of the most exotic pools of middle geyser basin. The exquisite colors of these hot spring pools are due to the varied layers of microbial mats in these basins, the varied depths and the varied levels of temperature. The spectral reflection depends on the optical absorption by the mats and scattering by the water and the incident solar and diffuse skylight conditions (as explained by a study conducted by Montana State University). One of the most dramatic play of colors is seen in the largest hot spring in the park, the Grand prismatic spring.  It is one of the popular hotspots of the park.

Shell Geyser

Jewel Geyser

The Excelsior geyser was the second tallest geyser in the world spouting up to a height of 300 ft. but after its major eruption in 1890, it has not spouted very high. Many of the tall but unpredictable geysers are located in the western Norris basin, (which I couldn't visit during this visit), lower basin and the upper basin.

There are a collection of smaller geysers like shell and jewel in the biscuit basin, which is one of the most volatile and unpredictable basins in the park. It's been so named because of the biscuit like deposits around the geysers.

Paint pots

Firehole water falls

The lower geyser basin is the largest basin in the park and has some popular attractions like the Great fountain geyser which can unpredictably shoot up to 230 ft . We missed the geyser eruption but it is a predictable geyser and spouts over 200 ft. There are many mud pools, paint pots and hot springs in this basin as well. Further west from this basin is the Fire hole water falls.

Firehole river along the midway geyser basin

The Angel 'travertine' terrace of the Mammoth hotsprings. 

A beautiful sunset on our way back through South Dakota

Three seasons in Yellowstone National Park - Winter - North gate >> Part 1

Three seasons in Yellowstone National Park - Fall - South gate >> Part 3