A Peripatetic In The Land Of High Passes

The Pangong Tso (Tso in the local language, Bodhi, or Ladakhi means lake)

ROUTE MAP OF LADAKH

LOCATION

Country: India

Union Territory: Ladakh

MAIN CITIES AND TOWNS (one must be acquainted with them to plan the itinerary)

1. Delhi, the Capital of India

2. Srinagar, Capital of Jammu and Kashmir

3. Leh, Capital of Ladakh

4. Chandigarh

5. Shimla

6. Manali

HOW TO REACH 

One can plan an itinerary of various combinations of flight, train, bus, personal/Hired vehicle, or treks.

By road

The route is marked on the map above.

Route 1. Basing Delhi as a starting point one can take the route via Manali, Keylong, and Sarchu to Leh.

Delhi to Manali: 574 Kms approx. takes anywhere between 9 hours, depending on the road condition.

Manali to Leh: 473 Km approx takes around 13 hrs, depending on the road conditions.

It is advisable to break the journey once at Manali and then at Sarchu.

Route 2: Basing Delhi as the starting point one can take a route via Chandigarh, Jammu, Srinagar, and Kargil to Leh

Delhi to Srinagar: 860 km and takes about 14 hrs in the best conditions.

Srinagar to Kargil: 204 Kms

Kargil to Leh: 234 Kms

It is advisable to break the journey once at Srinagar and then at Kargil.

By flight

The various airports on this route are:

1. Delhi (DEL) (International Airport)

2. Chandigarh Airport (IXC)

3. Jammu Airport (IXJ)

4. Srinagar Airport (SXR)

5. Shimla airport (SLV)

6. Kullu-Manali airport (KUU)

7. Leh Airport (IXL)

View of the Himalayas from the airplane on the way to Leh

I traveled to Leh via flight from Delhi and took me about an hour. From the airport, I joined two Japanese co-passengers to share a room at a local homestay. I was told it was one of the oldest homestays in Leh. Honestly, it wasn't great but it cost me just a couple 100 rupees and I was shocked that one could find accommodation for this price. I moved to a hotel the next day. It was not expensive either.

View of Leh Palace from the terrace of Old Ladakh Guest House

One word of caution: When traveling directly to Leh by flight it is advisable that one spends the first day at rest,  getting acclimatized to the altitude and pressure change. Leh is at an altitude of 3500 m (11500 ft) above sea level and hence lower oxygen level which causes breathlessness and altitude sickness that lasts for a few hours. There are healthcare workers who provide the required assistance in case of severe health issues. People with heart conditions and pressure problems should take the required precautionary measures. 

My Japanese roommates went out right after keeping their bags at the homestay for a city tour and came back pretty sick with breathing problems. They had to return back to Delhi the very next day. Hence, it is absolutely necessary to relax at the hotel on the first day and go out for site seeing only when you feel at ease.

By train
One can travel a part of the journey by train.

1. Delhi to Kalka and then the toy train to Shimla or take a bus or car to Shimla.
2. Delhi to Jammu

WEATHER and WHAT TO WEAR

Ladakh experiences extreme temperature variation. Peak summer could reach up to 35 C and peak winters can go as low as -30 C. I visited Ladakh in mid-July and stayed there till early October. The temperature was warm to pleasant. Some friends who visited in June mentioned that the weather was freezing cold at higher altitudes. Summer lasts between April and September end. Peak winter sets in around mid-November and stays till early February. The ice on the passes begins to thaw around March end.

The terrain is dry and dusty due to barren mountains and scanty rainfall. The sun can be extremely strong here. Cotton clothes with long sleeves, and a loose fit, are the most comfortable wear in this region. It is advisable to carry a warm jacket at all times cause the weather is unpredictable and it can get pretty cold even in peak summer. 

Sunscreens, sun shades, and closed shoes are absolute carry-alongs. If visiting monasteries it is preferred that one wears clothes that cover the arms and legs. No one openly objects but it is not considered respectable to expose. This dress code applies to both men and women.

WHERE TO STAY and WHAT TO EAT

There are luxury hotels to inexpensive guest houses in Leh. One can even find another traveler to share a room with. I think the minimum I spent was Rs. 300 for a room in one of the oldest guest houses in Leh and the maximum I spent was Rs. 600 at a small hotel near the city center market. Not the best rooms but good enough (according to me) for a night's stay! 

There are good restaurants and bakeries in the city center market. Leh is very small and any part of the city can be reached easily by walk. The main market was a 9-minute walk from the Old Ladakh Guest House. Later in the trip, I moved to a hotel in the market area.

Maggi was my staple diet in Ladakh for most days. Day 1 Dinner Maggi, Pineapple juice, munch, and orange wafer. It was 14th August and 'Indian Summer' was the perfect book to start that night.."When midnight struck in Delhi on the night of 14 August 1947, a new, free Indian nation was born. In London, the time was 8:30 p.m. The world's capital would enjoy another hour or two of a warm summer evening before the sun literally and finally set on the British Empire"

ACTIVITIES 

As mentioned above, Leh is quite small and one can easily access the main points of interest on foot. There are no public transportation facilities. At least there were none when I visited in 2012.

There are travel agents who can arrange vehicles for your sightseeing tours. One can also rent Motorcycles and cycles to travel around.

Main activities in the region, meditation at meditation centers, visiting monasteries, trekking, sightseeing trips to the lakes, and river rafting.

PLACES TO VISIT

Lakes

1. Pangong Tso - It takes almost a day to visit Pangong Tso from Leh and back but there are options to stay at Dhaba camp on the bank of Pangong and home stays at Spangmik Village but the availability is not guaranteed and the facilities are very basic. 

I went on a day trip to Pangong Tso with a group of local tourists on a jeep arranged by a local travel agent. We did not stay back, since we had plans to head for Nubra Valley the next day.

About to reach Pangong Tso

2. Tso Moriri - Traveling to Tsomoriri also takes an entire day if one wishes to come back to Leh but there are homestay options at Korzok village near the lake. Visit to Tso Moriri was also a day trip on a jeep. 

Tso (Lake) Moriri 

Valleys in Ladakh

1. SURU and ZANSKAR VALLEY
2. SHYOK and NUBRA VALLEY
3. DRAS and MUSHKOH VALLEY
4. INDUS VALLEY : 

The Indus Valley gets its name from the River Indus that flows through this region. The main attractions here are:

INDUS VALLEY ROUTE MAP

Confluence of Zanskar and Indus. In winter this gets frozen and adventure seekers and local travelers walk on the frozen river to Zanskar Valley down south. The trek is called Chaadar (sheet - sheet of ice) Trek

Day 1

Leh

The first day was spent resting, reading, and sightseeing from the terrace at the guest house. Leh is the administrative capital of Ladakh and the biggest city in the region. Most people base their trips at Leh. Major attractions in Leh include the Leh Palace and Shanti Stupa. 

On the way to Leh Palace

Day 2

Leh Palace was hardly a 5-minute walk from the guest house we were staying at. We went there on the second day. One can see the mud houses of Leh from the top floors of the Palace. From Leh Palace, I went to the local market and shopped for some handicrafts and also visited the museum. The Shanti Stupa was not very close, so I took a ride to it. From there, we headed back to the guest house. We were still getting acclimatized and hence were getting out of breath after walking a short distance.

View of Leh from Leh Palace

Shanti Stupa

Day 3

On the third day, we felt a lot better and decided to head for the monasteries. We booked a vehicle through a local travel agent we met in the market the previous day. He came along to guide us through the trip. He did tell us that there would be a lot of walking and we should proceed only if we felt fit and fine.  We were so fascinated by the monasteries and their architecture, that altitude sickness took a leave of us. We walked to every nook and corner of the monasteries which surprised the guide. He said most visitors just click a few photographs and head back, we were one of the few who went to every single room, floor, and corner of all the monasteries, and palaces we visited.

To the southeast of Leh are Shey, Stok, Thikse, Stakna, and Hemis monasteries. It might take a few hours to a whole day to cover this stretch depending on how enthusiastic one is to explore every nook and corner of the monasteries. 

We started early at 5:00 a.m. and reached Thiksey Monastery around 5:30 a.m. where the monks start the morning prayers by blowing long Tibetan horns/trumpets called Rag-dung

The travel distance from Leh City center is just 1 hr 35 mins but we spent the entire day exploring the palaces and monasteries and returned pretty late in the evening after participating in the evening prayers at the Hemis

The Shey Palace

The Thiksey Monastery

The Stakna Monastery

The Hemis Monastery

The Stok Monastery

Day 4

On the fourth day, we visited the monasteries on the northwest side of Leh, which include, Spituk, Alchi, Lamayuru, Likir, and Basgo monasteries among many others. My special mention would be Alchi. Beautiful wood carvings and amazing wall paintings adorn this gompa. On the way to the North West stretch, one may also visit the Nanak sahib Gurudwara which is considered a very sacred pilgrimage shrine for the Sikhs. The drive itself is scenic and it often feels like a painted landscape.

We started the day earlier on the fourth day and returned a lot later as well. Must Mention Lamayuru and Alchi took my breath away:)

5:00 a.m. morning prayer at Spituk Monastery

Flower offerings at Spituk Monastery

The Spituk Monastery

The Basgo Monastery

The Lamayuru Monastery

On the way to Lamuyuru, there is a stretch of rough badlands called Moonland

There is a stretch of land on NH1 called the Magnetic Hill where vehicles get pulled against gravitation. I was not convinced but I guess it happens cause everyone there said so :)

India's northernmost highway NH 1

The Likir Monastery

Gurudwara Patthar Sahib at 12000 ft above sea level is one of the highest Gurudwaras in the world

Where The Stars Meet The Sea

My interpretation of the memorable ferry ride in pencil

We decided to leave Koh Tao on an impulse. Can’t quite advocate unplanned ventures or adventures but more than often have gone that way! Undeniably, it has failed me a few times. Nonetheless, the apparent escapist in me said, that planning and then failing is more defeating than not planning and failing! Or better still an unexpected result, win or fail is perhaps more gratifying than an expected one. Well, philosophies aside, we elected to head south.

Sunset at Koh Tao. Koh (Island) Tao (Turtle) Turtle Island is a beautiful island in the Chumphon Archipelago in the Gulf of Thailand. It is much known for its Scuba diving resorts. Though small it is a nice getaway for 4-5 days with serene beaches, a colorful local market,  and decent eateries. 

A few many knocks on the doors of half a dozen travel agencies finally got us two last-minute tickets for the night ferry to Surat Thani. The ferry was a complete chock-a-block! 8 in the night the little port seemed alive with festive exuberance. There were few Thai natives and a swarm of enthusiastic young Western tourists. Most of them were in their early twenties, I presumed. I could hear the excitement and eager introductions going around. ‘Hiya! I am John from the UK..oh kool I am Monica from Switzerland. A German couple… A group of students from France. Wow! The world had just come to a small South Asian port at this hour of the night.

Our big bags were stowed away in the cargo section with number slips handed out and then we boarded in a queue (I make a particular mention of this pleasant word because it's such a rarity in my part of the world, unfortunately!). On the basis of first come first serve, some got the cabins with beds and I muttered in my mind ‘Jeez what a miss!’ only to realize in the next hour, that it was a miss worth well.  The next in the queue were given mattresses and pillows and the final last-minute-ers including us got coir mats and the invaluable instruction to find ourselves a place (if we can) to safely rest our butts!

We were on the topmost deck. It was clean though crammed with people, drinking, laughing, and merrymaking; seemed like a partying cruise. Scampering through the crowd and dodging the carefree passengers sitting on the deck floor with beer bottles in their hands, we finally managed to get ourselves to a strip of vacant space exactly in front of the engine room. 

What lay before us was the last railing protectively separating us from the endless starry sky and the endless gurgling sea - almost inviting us to dive into that seeming limitlessness. I wasn’t sure if the gooseflesh bespoke the chill breeze brushing against the skin or the hypnotic panorama in front of my eyes. We spread the mat, leaned against the backpacks, and wrapped the stole around. The chill had started to pinch. Yes! it wasn’t a dream.

Countless stars had irradiated the clear January sky. The sea was calm, the air bore the moist seaweed smell, and often times I could hear the waves splash against the ferry walls. Before long I was in a trance. For the next many hours, while time stood still, I sat reminiscing and reflecting on all the myriad moments gone past in the last many years. Maybe this is how close one can get to peace. A quarry we pursue so relentlessly to actually chase it away most often.

Suddenly, the ship's haunting horn blasted through the dead silence of the night interrupting my introspection. I could see distant lights moving….another ferry….carrying another traveler from another distant land to another distant destination.. who might be wondering quite like me, 'Perhaps this is where the stars meet the sky!'

Karst Topography In South Thailand

We came across Karst Caves on our 14-day Thailand and Cambodia trip itinerary to Thailand. We flew from Delhi to Bangkok. After a short trip to Cambodia, we headed to south Thailand. We stayed in Koh Tao for 5 days and then traveled to Phuket. While in Phuket we took a day tour of Phang Nga Bay. Here we came across some amazing Karst landscapes and caves. Ice Cream Cave particularly was spectacular.

Koh Tao to Phuket was almost a day journey. We took a sleeper boat from Koh Tao to Surat Thani - Our memorable sleeper boat ride from Koh Tao to Surat Thani. At Surat Thani Pier, we got a bus to Phuket. 

Phang Nga Bay tour was a day tour. We started early around 7:30 a.m. and came back around 5:00 p.m. We hopped a few islands in the bay and took a canoe ride to the Ice cream caves on Koh Panak Island

Phang Nga Bay has around 42 islands. The tour took us to Panak, Hong, and James Bond Island. The rest of the islands were cruised around

Phang Nga Bay Ice Cream Cave is a Karst formation. This Cave is one of the most breathtaking natural wonders of the world. When the Canoe entered the tiny cave, I did not for once imagine, it would eventually lead to an area open to the sky and surrounded by karst mountains covered in green foliage. It was a surreal experience 

Cave entrance in front. It looked so tiny from the outside but the surprise inside was overwhelming.

The Sinkhole formation: Open to sky enclosed within tall karst mountains. My photos do not do justice but the experience is uncapturable

Phang Nga Bay islands: Of the 42+ islands in the bay, 14 are the most visited which include Khao Phing Kan (James Bond Island), Koh Panak, Koh Hong, Koh Yao Yai, Koh Kudu Yai, Koh Panyee, Koh Nom Sao, Koh Raya ring to name a few. 'Khao' in Thai means 'hill' and 'Koh' means 'Island'.

What is Karst Topography

A Karst landscape is a formation in regions that have large deposits of limestone / or any calcium-rich stone, abundant water, and rich vegetation. Calcium-rich stone reacts with atmospheric CO2 and carbon dioxide released by plants and aquatic organisms to form porous layers through which water seeps into the ground creating underground subterranean rivers, lakes, and caves with stalactite and stalagmites. These natural wonders are like sculptures designed by nature.

Stalactite in Phang Nga Bay Cave: Water-dripped mineral deposits that form icicle-like formations hanging down the cave roofs are called stalactite

Stalagmite and karst columns at Panak Islands: Stalagmites are icicle-type water-dripped mineral deposits formed on floors of caves. These grow upward and form columns when joined with stalactites growing downwards.

Stalactites- A closer look - water droplets can be seen on the tips

Karst columns - a closer look

Green fluorescent light in the ice cream caves due to the reflection of light through green algae water 

Khao Phing Kan, popularly known as James Bond Island after the shooting of the 007 Movie, The Man with the Golden Gun

Ko Hong Islands

Prominent Karst Regions in Thailnd. Doi Nang Non is the karst region in the north. It became famous when 12 junior football team members and their coach got trapped inside one of the caves and were rescued over a 12-day period.

Karst landscape in Croatia

Karst Topography in Croatia: Plitvice Lakes

How were the Plitvice lakes formed?