A Journey To The Enchanting Tawang

Sungester Lake (Madhuri Lake) in Tawang

Sungester was a small lakeside village that was destroyed after a strong earthquake in 1971. The lake remained as its only witness. In the 90s Senior Roshan (Cinema director) decided to shoot a song, 'Tanhai Tanhai' for his film Koyla, at this fitting dream location. Mesmerized by the film's gorgeous heroine Madhuri Dixit, the locals rechristened the lake as Madhuri Lake.

Route Map To Tawang From Guwahati Via Tezpur and Bomdila

Tawang is only 35/37 km from Bum La Pass (la in the local language means pass) which is the nearest pass to the Indo-China border. The nearest major Chinese town Tsona Dzong is 45 km from Bum La.( And I thought China was far :P). To reach Tawang one has to cross one of the highest passes in India - The SE LA PASS at 4170 m above sea level.

LOCATION

Country: India
State: Arunachal Pradesh
Region: Tawang District

MAIN CITIES AND TOWNS (one must be acquainted with, them to plan the itinerary)

1. Guwahati/Dispur, Capital of neighboring state Assam
2. Tezpur, Nearest airport/Heli-ped
3. Bhalukpong, border town (love this name :) - it means where the bear comes to drink water)
4. Bomdila, a local holiday destination, and midway stopover

HOW TO REACH

The nearest big city is Guwahati/Dispur Capital of Assam. Most tourists, begin their Arunachal journey from Guwahati. One can fly or take a train/bus/private/rented vehicle from Guwahati. For Indian nationals as well as foreign nationals, an inner line permit to enter Arunachal Pradesh is a must. The permit is checked at the entry ports. The entry port for the Guwahati Tawang Circuit in Bhalukpong. One can get the permits done at Delhi Arunachal Bhavan, Guwahati Arunachal Bhavan, and Tezpur Arunachal Bhavan. The Guwahati Arunachal Bhavan is at Rukmini Gaon, GS Road. The form for Indian nationals is Rs.5 plus Rs.25 for the inner line permit. Two passport-size photographs and a copy of an ID card/passport are a must. There is a weird rule :P women of all age groups married or single - must bring a 'No objection certificate' from their Father or Spouse or any male guardian. In the absence of either, I have no clue who is supposed to give the so-called NOC. My friend and I found it quite annoying that we couldn't be responsible for our travel plans at our age ( way above 18) :P but alas no arguments with them worked, we had to call our respective fathers and have them speak to the officer at the Bhavan. Men, however, have no such requirements. Talk about gender equality in the 21st century :P.  One gets the permit the next working day. It's a simple process and there is no need to pay extra to the travel agents. For foreign nationals, the fee may be higher. I am not sure!

From Guwahati, there are a few options to reach Tawang.

1. Bikers and those traveling in private/rented vehicles, can follow the route NH 52 till Bhalukpong then take NH 229. It takes around 2.5 hrs to 3 hours to reach Tezpur, then another 5 to 8 hours to Bomdila. The road is pretty good till Tenga Valley. It starts getting closer to Bomdila. It is advisable to stop over at Bomdila or Tenga and start early the next day since the road from Bomdila to Tawang is really unpredictable!!!! If lucky the journey can be completed in 9 hrs. If not, it can take 18 hours or more. We started on an unfortunate rainy day in the month of June and met with two big landslides and scary, slippery, muddy roads. It took us exactly 18 hours to reach Tawang! Hard luck that is! :)

One can start really early from Guwahati, say 3 am, and if all goes well, with no long halts, no bad roads, no rains, and no landslides, one can reach Tawang in 18 to 19 hrs. Well! The mountain roads can get crazy. Therefore, it is better to avoid any risks.

My suggestion would be, to stay at Eagle's Nest camp near Bhalukpong for a day or Tenga or Bomdila and then proceed ahead. Between  Bomdila and Tawang there is just one small village Dirang with limited lodging facilities. 

There are amazing waterfalls right on the road in the stretch between Bhalukpong and Bomdila. We went during the monsoons and were lucky to see them at their full flow but again, if not for the gushing waterfalls, that one can almost stand under, monsoons are not the best time to travel to this part of Arunachal!! 

2. One can also take a helicopter ride from Tezpur to Tawang. It's an irregular service and depends on the weather conditions. Guess one way takes anywhere around 3K - 5K.

3. ONe can opt for a bus from Guwahati which takes around Rs. 170 to Tezpur. Be aware there are two routes to Tezpur, a shorter route that takes 3 hours and a longer route that takes 5 hours or more.  The buses leave from Paltan Bazaar Guwahati, Khanapara Guwahati, and ISBT, Guwahati. Other than buses there are small tempo services which take about the same price. The buses and tempos run throughout the day. There is one bus that leaves at 6am from ISBT which goes directly to Bomdila. 

There is also an early morning bus from Tezpur that goes directly to Tawang. At Tezpur, one can find trekkers/jeeps traveling to Bomdila throughout the day. There are trekkers going to Tawang as well but they start very early in the morning. The price ranges from Rs. 500 to 800. We paid Rs. 450 to Bomdilla and Rs. 600 to Tawang but I guess it can be bargained and depends on the number of passengers the trekker is carrying.

Note: If you are there on a rainy day, please ensure that your bags are properly covered with the tarpaulin sheet on the trekker top, otherwise you will end up with a bag full of soaking wet clothes and spend a day drying them in the hotel room using room heaters :P (says the experienced me :P)

WEATHER and WHAT TO WEAR

It gets quite cold once you reach Bomdila. We were there in June/July and It was quite cold in fact freezing cold at the lakes. Woolens are an 'absolute' must. If going in monsoon, an umbrella, and raincoat is essential. It rained 24 hrs every day during our stay. Sneakers and boots are preferred footwear. Again if you are risking a visit during the monsoon, wear galoshes if you can :P. We were stuck in the landslide and had to cross the muddy mountain road on foot. My slippers got stuck in the mud and it was quite a task retrieving them.

Stuck in a landslide

BEST TIME TO VISIT 

I think one can avoid the monsoon in June and July unless you are the adventurous kind and don't mind going beyond your scheduled itinerary. The good thing about June and July is that the waterfalls are in their full flow and way up near the lakes, you get to see beautiful flowers. It's almost like a valley of flowers. In fact, it is a valley of flowers and the mist around the lakes gives an ethereal feel. Oh well! now that I think, the monsoon was a little messy but definitely beautiful.

Peak winter is a bad time too because of snow blocks and unsafe roads but again if you are adventurous enough, the beauty of Tawang and the lakes in winter is as enchanting (as seen in photographs).

The absolute safe time to go there is between September and November (till the onset of snowfall) and between March and June (till the onset of monsoon)

WHERE TO STAY and WHAT TO EAT

There are many hotels and restaurants in Tawang. One can go there and book rooms. One can also bargain. We got a decent hotel for Rs. 1000 but I think one can get better deals if smarter :P. One note of caution all hotels close around 8ish. Better reach there early if you have not booked ahead. We reached midnight and no hotels were open or willing to open.

Also, be very careful about thieves. We heard about a lot of thefts in the town and we got robbed ourselves. The thief entered our room at night and carried our bags, cameras, and phones. He took all the cash and left our bags near the entrance. Not sure why he was that considerate. We suspected the hotel owner but had no proof. We did lodge an FIR at the local police station but not much got done. The best thing is to stay alert. Ensure the doors and windows of your room are locked and you keep all your cash and expensive items under your pillow :P It was a sad experience but I guess there are good and bad people everywhere and well such things can happen anywhere, so one must be alert and careful. There are ATMs, so do not carry too much cash! Here's the detailed story.

ACTIVITIES

Trekking, Site visits, Scenic drives

PLACES TO VISIT  

1. Tawang Gompa - One of the  largest monasteries in South Asia

2. The Gurudwara SahibTeesri Udasi, is quite a trek up the mountain

3. The lakes and the valley of flowers. There are a number of lakes in Tawang. Ptso, Kyo Tso, Sungester, and many other small ones, Sungester or Madhuri Lake as it is locally called after an Indian Actress Madhuri Dixit who filmed a dance sequence here is the main attraction and an absolute must-visit.

Laugh, Think, Cry

Another New Year! Cliche but true, "Tempus Fugit, Time Flies"!! Here I am yet another year in Fargo. Three years back, who knew!!?!, there even existed a Dakota?? and today I am enlightened to know there are three "freezing" Fargos and I inhabit the coldest one! Can't believe it!! it's 22 C below the freezing point! A thin layer of frost has cut me off from the world outside, I can't see the TV tower today and I can't see the blue sky! I can't see a thing!! Perhaps NO!! that's not quite true, I do see an enchanting piece of art instead, something no artist can ever create. The patterned frost on the window pane is like those beautiful geometrical patterns we can see through a kaleidoscope.

Kaleidoscope - artistry of reflections. Reminds me of the first and the last edition of the college magazine we launched during 'Mansara'. We named it Kaleidoscope, to symbolize the many different phases of our college days. The amusing part was, that there were two editors but no articles to edit! Dri and I had to desperately beg for contributions! Finally, it did get published at the 11th hour, and was even blessed with a controversial write-up:))) (that's an interesting story I'll save for another day!

Mansara, the annual college fest was the idea of some of the bright ones of our very active BARCH batch. It started as a playful suggestion but soon became a goal for the Archinoids, we called our batch!! The 48 hours preceding Mansara were one of the unforgettable episodes of my life! The magazine had to be printed, the stage had to be set, the programs had to be finalized, invitations had to be sent, and a long never-ending list of the eleventh-hour to-dos!  The decoration, the music, the stalls, the excitement, the tension, the adrenaline surge, we were going bonkers! The crazy 48 hours passed and it happened! A blast it was:) I call it a REAL success! The names have changed, and the faces are different, but the spirit of Mansara lives on to this day! (touch wood!:)

College was "all play and no work":), So JAK never became a dull boy! Yes! I simply played through the five years of BARCH. There are many funny/ sad/ emotional/ unemotional stories from the good old 'Happy days' (that Telugu movie did touch the nostalgic nerve). Here's one of them..!!!

Building Sciences class was in session. A boring topic, a boring course, and a hungry us! I was trying hard to keep myself entertained to survive one of the longest hours of my life! Maddy was perched (metaphorically) next to me (birds of the same feather flock together after all) and was the poor victim of my boredom. The Prof. said Fredrick Olmstead I read fried rice omelet. He said Ghery, I read Cherry, he said Vander Rohe, I read Vindaloo. Words kept unscrambling and I whispered them out to my equally bored neighbour. Maddy started giggling and I caught on to the contagious giggle. I have a unique condition (well not as bad as the pseudobulbar effect but still a condition, perhaps!) If I start laughing or crying, I mean, if I REALLY start laughing or crying, there's no stopping. Hence, starting a giggle can be disastrous! I faced the consequences once back in school, I had to, really had to, hold on for another 30 minutes but before I could stop the tickle on my funny bone, I saw what I shouldn't have :( The absolutely rotund structure of the Prof. His head was as round as the remaining him (no offense meant but I was hungry, bored, and giggly:) He reminded me of a vegetable, I had rather not name, so as not to sound too offensive and disrespectful (I guess it was merely a matter of the moment - I could have laughed my heart out at the driest of jokes), and the next thing I did impulsively or instinctively or just foolishly was to run out of the class! The lecture room was small, and there was only one way out. The way right under his nose. Out in the corridor, I finally felt at ease. Suppressing a burst of laughter can be quite stressful!!:) I laughed and laughed and laughed. Quite meaninglessly too! A second later Maddy joined me, and we both continued with the laughing spree. The bell rang for recess! We were still laughing. The Prof. passed by us, stopping for a second, and gave a confused, annoyed,  sorry look but we continued laughing as if nothing ever mattered more.

The school episode was during an English literature class. Mrs. P was the teacher, and she was taking a class on Julius Casar, the play by Shakespeare. Act 111 scene 1 - The Ides of March..44 BC. The Roman Senate was about to witness history being created.

And in xxxx AD, two bubbly creatures, sitting in the last row of the class discussing last night's movie quite as seriously, "Ghost" to be precise. Mrs. P is unaware of the two mischievous imps. continues with her lecture. Caesar arrives at the Senate. Cassius, Casca, and Brutus are anxiously waiting to strike the dictator.

The two are still discussing Demi Moore, Patrick Swayze, and "Goldie Whoopberg". Casca is about to strike. One of the two says, "You know Goldie Whoopberg is called whoopie sometimes" The conspirators strike the unsuspecting target. The other nodded in consent yes Goldie Whoopberg is sometimes called Whoopie. Brutus makes the final stab, and the two look at each other, and smile. They realized, there's no Goldie Whoopberg.. She is Whoopie Goldberg and is always called Whoopie:)).

Caesar looks at Brutus and says "Et tu Brute, then fall Caesar" and the two burst into laughter. Mrs. P is literally scandalized perhaps even more than Caesar was when he saw Brutus stab him, she immediately asked the two to leave the class.

And the two shamelessly kept laughing in the corridor while the entire teaching staff kept wondering what was so funny about Caesar's assassination:)) So that was Me and Bee and it amazes me too, how a silly spoonerism and Caesar's murder can trigger a hilarious moment!

I guess this is becoming an anecdotal blog.:) I am suddenly flooded with memories from school. Loreto was quite similar to those Enid Blyton Schools we used to read about in junior classes. Not to mention St. Claires and Malory Towers. The red brick building, green windows, secret passage, ponds, bridges, gardens, fields, the junior school park, the sister's cemetery, the piano parlor, the tiny tuck shop, Charlie the skeleton, Bruno and Cindy the huge Alsatians, exactly out of a storybook. Reminiscing about school days always gets me a little nostalgic. Those were the real wonder years. Sometimes I feel, the clock should have stopped 15 years ago :) Not that the after-school life was bad:). Things changed, interests changed, life changed, and it's been a continuous process since.

Well, life's that kaleidoscope that Brewster accidentally invented. It's not just the reflection in the mirrors but the reflection of myriad memories. Those tiny colorful glass pieces, those ephemeral moments. Yes! A twist and a turn, and the pattern changes but whether a smile, whether a tear, whether the past, whether the present, what touches the soul is flawlessly beautiful. The patterns in the kaleidoscope are beautiful, the frost on the window is beautiful and all those thousands of memories are beautiful, and they all make it worth living for!

Jim Valvano, an American Basketball coach once said, 'There are three things one should do every day, Laugh, think, and Cry'And I couldn't agree more or less. At the end of our journey, we will realize that every single day of our life was worthwhile because when we laughed we made another laugh with us, when we thought, we left an idea behind, when we cried, we touched a soul.

7 Days In Egypt : Giza, Cairo, Luxor And Aswan

Egypt was a dream come true. It was on my bucket list for ever so long waiting to be ticked. When COVID hit the world, I decided, that if things were coming back to normal, perhaps we should plan Egypt. Also, my mother wanted to see the pyramids while she was still fit enough to travel.

The Sphinx, The Pyramid of Khafre or Chephren (right), and The Pyramid of Menkaure (left)

We flew Kuwait Airways from Delhi to Cairo via Kuwait City. This is not a sponsored blog as is very obvious, but I can vouch for Kuwait Airways. Have taken it a few times and the service and food were more than good. In fact, I loved the Arabic food on the way to Cairo. The flight to Kuwait was about 4.5 hours. We were not asked for COVID clearance, but as a precautionary measure, we got ourselves tested and carried the COVID-19 negative certificates and vaccination certificates. We had a layover of four hours in Kuwait. The airport is not crowded, well serviced, has good food outlets and has free internet. Lounge facilities are good too but we didn't use them. There was no requirement. Over all the layover was not inconvenient.

Tourist Visa Requirements from India and Italy : 

As of December 2022, the Visa process from India and Italy is as follows:

From India: 

Required documents: 

1. Visa form (available on their Facebook page ) The consulate website is not quite user-friendly. 

2. Flight Tickets

3. Hotel bookings

4. 6-month bank statement. 

5. NOC from Employer (not mandatory)

6. 3 years IT returns (not mandatory)

7. Cover letter

8. 2 passport-size photos

9. 2 copies of the first and last page of the passport

10. Original passport

11. Guarantee letter from a travel agent in Egypt. This was clearly asked by the person who answered my call to the Delhi Consulate. They are prompt in answering calls. All visa-related queries are answered after 1:00 p.m. 

I think E-visa is possible from India but I am not entirely sure if it can work without a valid guarantee letter. The Guarantee letter was actually the most tricky part since I had already booked my flight tickets and hotels and had planned a certain itinerary. Most travel agencies, I approached for the letter, wanted me to buy their package, which included their itinerary and their choice of hotels. After a tedious search and a lot of inquiry on random forums on TripAdvisor and booking-dotcom, I came across Ahmed, a travel agent based in Cairo, who agreed to provide me the guarantee letters at a cost of $35 per person without me having to book anything with him. However, as a courtesy, I did tell him, I would prefer to book any tours or services, if required, from him. Since I was traveling with aged parents, I didn't want the hassles of transportation and tour guides in Egypt. Therefore, I went ahead and booked Ahmed for transportation and a tour guide for the sites I had planned to visit. It actually worked out pretty good for us, He provided us with a good AC car and guided us to all the places of interest I had planned. 

Those who do not wish to opt for tour guides and transportation services from agents can opt for Uber or Careem while in the city. Or get transportation services from the hotels they book with. However, I heard a lot of haggling happens in Egypt for car services within the cities ( I didn't have to face it since I had pre-booked my entire trip).

Coming back to the Visa process, as noted, getting the guarantee letter was the most difficult part of the process. The rest was pretty smooth. I applied at the Delhi embassy: 1/50 M, Niti Marg, Chanakyapuri, New Delhi, India, Delhi. We submitted the documents at a counter next to the entrance gate of the embassy.  It is open Monday - Friday 11-1 for visa-related work. I suggest calling them a day before to confirm the timings Phone number: 011 2611 4097.

The submission process took less than 5 minutes. The person at the counter checked the documents. Took a payment of Rs. 2700 per person for the application (Rs.300) and Visa (Rs. 2400). Shared a receipt and asked us to collect our passports after 5 days. We collected the Visa and passport on the 5th day at the same counter. Took us less than a minute. There was no crowd at all. I suggest carrying cash for the payment. I didn't see any ATMs close by and I am not sure if other modes of payment are accepted.

From Italy:

The process from Italy was a little different. Some of my family members live in Italy and they applied for the Visa at the Milan Consulate. They were asked to apply for authorization first. The authorization process required them to submit a form available on their website. Additional documents required are mentioned on the website. Tickets and hotel bookings are not required before authorization is approved. Also, they are prompt in answering calls and emails for queries and questions.

The authorization approval took over a month and multiple follow-ups. Due to the holiday season in November and December, the paperwork took longer than usual, I guess. After the authorization approval, they were asked to apply for the visa. The authorization approval is a guaranteed visa. Tickets and hotels may be booked after approval and copies are required during visa application. I don't think a guarantee letter is required when applying from Italy but we still got them to avoid any kind of hassle later. E-visa option is available from Italy. The option is mentioned on their website but the staff at the consulate were not aware of the e-visa process and had no clue that it existed also!

To sum it up, other than the guarantee letter, the visa process is pretty simple and hassle-free.

At Cairo International Airport

Cairo has four terminals. T1 is the old airport and is the terminal for budget airlines and non-star-alliance airlines. T2 is for international flights, mostly non-star-alliance flights again. T3 is Egypt Air's hub and is the terminal for Star Alliance flights and domestic flights run by Egypt Air. T4 is a seasonal terminal used only for Hajj passengers. Kuwait Airways flight arrived at T2 since it is not a Star Alliance partner. We noticed unlike all airports I visited, Guides are allowed into the airport, and they receive their respective tourist customers right at the immigration area. My family members flying from Italy landed at T1 and they were received by our tour agent. Due to some issue with my phone, I could not connect with the agent when we landed in Cairo. Also, the wifi at the airport is unpredictable. Rather it didn't work on my phone at all. My family members in the T1 terminal were able to use the airport wifi. 

Immigration was smooth. However, we had issues at the exit. It was crowded and chaotic, and there were charges for trolley carts which I never faced in any airport. I don't know if I was lied to or actually, it is charged. There were limited carts and somebody literally took away my cart and said it's paid for. I realized travel agents have men working at the airport, and it's kind of managed entirely by them. 

One irritating part of Egypt that we faced right from the beginning was being asked for money (in dollars - minimum 5 dollars) for any and everything. I think they will ask for money to even give the direction :) Guess, that's the way it is! It was an experience for the first time. Somebody came and picked up our luggage and put it in the baggage check-in belt at Aswan airport, we didn't ask them to - we were doing it ourselves. My sibling thought it was an airport worker so maybe to hurry things up he was helping us, but after putting one suitcase on the belt he asked for 5 dollars. It is my advice, do not let anyone come to your aid if you do not need it. Not for clicking pics, taking directions, etc, etc. We spent a good amount on just tipping for unnecessary stuff. 

Do keep some Egyptian pounds in cash for use at the airport. It will be useful when buying a SIM card. There are stalls for various mobile services in the exit lounge. Charges were pretty high, it is best to get international roaming but well, may depend. It is better to do a comparison when planning for your trip. I was able to contact our agent and my other family members once I got the new sim. We wasted almost an hour trying to get the phone working. My suggestion is to get international roaming at least for a day cause airport wifi may or may not work.

Currency:

US dollars are in great demand there. Most transactions happen in USD, if not in Egyptian pounds, We carried some Egyptian pounds from India but realized it was a bad decision and a huge loss. It is wise to convert the dollars in Egypt since the exchange rate is best there due to logical reasons. Euros work as well but are not the best option. Cash is preferred, though card facilities are available in most hotels, airports, and ticketing booths. However, local stores and restaurants may not have card facilities.

Weather:

We were in Egypt in late January. The weather was decent. Mornings and evenings were pleasant. A light jacket was handy. Afternoons did get extremely warm but a cool breeze once in a while gave good relief. I carried loose ankle-length cotton wear with long sleeves and scarves to cover the face. Yet I returned with burnt cheeks! Sunscreen is an absolute must. 

Places of interest:

Day 1: Giza

7 days are too short to cover all the important sites of Egypt. At a minimum 14 days are advisable. 

We planned to stay in Giza for the first two days since visiting the pyramids was our first priority. On the first day, we stayed at The Great Pyramid Inn, which is next to the Light and Sound show site. We watched the show from their rooftop restaurant. In fact, you can see a big part of the pyramid complex from the rooftop restaurant. The hotels on that lane are small budget hotels but neat and clean and really next door to the Sphinx. There are two entries to the Pyramid Complex one on the Sphinx side and the other near the Great Pyramid Side. This entry is close to the Mena House Hotel. It's a Marriott hotel and has a beautiful view of the Great Pyramid. On day 2 of our trip we moved to Mena House. It was pricey particularly because we went during peak season but was worth the stay.

Day 2: Giza

On day 2 we moved to Mena House. The main entrance to the Pyramid complex was just 2 minutes away. We got the tickets at the counter. The entry tickets to go inside the pyramids need to be taken here. Once you are in, it will be a long way back to buy the separate entry tickets into the pyramids. It's best to plan out way ahead whether you want to go inside the pyramids or not. Our guide suggested going inside the Pyramid of Khafre if we had to make a choice of one. We went ahead with that.

We walked to The Great Pyramid which is pretty close to the Ticket counter. Cars, horse carriages, and Camels are allowed in the complex. We traveled in a car. We also took a horse carriage ride and some of my family members took a camel ride to the Panoramic View hilltop. It's a small Hill, from where all the pyramids can be seen. It was definitely worth the $50 we spent. Well, once there, we stopped thinking about the money we were spending, since it was a once-in-a-lifetime trip and yes we knew Egypt was going to be the expensive one.

Will share the details of the Giza and Saqqara trips on Day 2 in a separate post.

Entry Passes for places of interest

It's a good idea to purchase the Cairo Pass and the Luxor Pass if planning to stay in Egypt for a long time and there's ample time to visit every single monument and tomb. The math works out well considering the entry tickets for tombs in Luxor can get quite expensive. Students get 50% off on the passes and if one purchases the Cairo pass, they get the Luxor Pass at a 50% discount and vice versa. When we were there, the Cairo Pass was $100 and Luxor Regular Pass was $100 and the Luxor Premium Pass was $200. Hence, getting the Cairo first and then the Luxor one works better. These passes are valid for 5 days. One needs to carry crisp dollar notes, copies of Passports (2 sets each for each pass), and passport-size photos. It's best to carry it from the home country since getting photocopies and photos in Egypt will get pretty expensive. Both passes are available in the Cairo Ministry of Antiquities. It might take a few hours to get both passes from the Ministry and should be planned accordingly. 

Cairo Pass is available at the Pyramids Complex Ticket Center. Luxor premium and regular passes are available at the Ticketing Center of Valley of Kings.

We did not opt for the passes, because we didn't have enough time to cover everything in just a week.

Day 3: Cairo

On day three, we toured Cairo and flew to Luxor in the evening. We went to the National Museum of the Egyptian Civilization where most of the mummies are preserved. Then we visited the historic districts of Cairo, also called Islamic and Coptic Cairo. I was about to give these a pass but that would have been a big big mistake. Will share separate blogs on both. I think if you are in Cairo you should not miss them.

If one has time, a train ride or a cruise to Luxor wouldn't be a bad idea. I heard it's a beautiful scenic route. We flew Egypt Air for all internal trips. Cairo to Luxor was a 1 hr flight. Luxor is a small tourist town and its domestic airport is pretty small. We were perhaps on the last flight that day. Due to some communication issue with our Hotel's pickup, we ran into a bit of inconvenience getting to the hotel late at night (everything in Lusor closes by 8:00 pm or earlier). People here start their day early and all temples and tombs open by 6:00 a.m. and close by 4:00 p.m. / 5:00 p.m. in some cases. At 9:00 pm, the airport was pretty deserted but then thankfully, we got a taxi. We were a teeny bit apprehensive in the beginning but the driver turned out quite friendly and got us safely to our hotel. The 30-minute ride took us $35. 

I had booked a West Bank hotel since I wanted to stay closer to the Valley of Kings and Queens. The hotel was lovely but a little difficult to locate. it was on the banks of the Nile and was built in Nubian style. I totally loved it. Djorff Palace is away from the main City but gorgeous for a stay. 

Day 4: Luxor

Day 4 started really early. We wanted tried to squeeze in as much as possible in one day. Well honestly, not a good idea but when time is a constraint and you are not sure if you can make a second trip again, there's no other option. The Valley of Kings and Queens opens at 6:00 a.m. and we kind of reached around 8:00 a.m. We wanted to visit the tomb of Nefertari, which is open to a limited number of visitors a day, and were told tickets get sold pretty quick. So, we decided to go to the Queen's Valley first. It was surprisingly almost empty. The entry fee is 100 EGP, which allows entry to any three tombs excluding Nefertari's tomb which costs 1400 EGP. Honestly, Nefertari's tomb was the best of all tombs in the Valley of Kings and the Valley of Queens together. Absolutely recommended.

From the Valley of the Queens, we headed for the Valley of the Kings. It was as crowded as can be. The entry fee is 260 EGP and allows entry into any three tombs excluding the three below which have separate entry fees:

1. Seti I - Tomb KV 17 - 1000 EGP 

2. Tutankhamen - Tomb KV62 - 300 EGP

3. Ramses V and VI - Tomb KV 9 - 100 EGP

We bought the entry ticket and the three additional tickets. I think they were all worth it. If I had more time, I would have covered the other tombs as well. I can never get enough of anything historical :)

By the time we completed the 6 tombs in Valley of Kings, the afternoon sun was scorching hot and we were exhausted. 

Still, we decided to head for the Mortuary temple of Hatshepsut. My legs didn't want to move at all but I literally dragged myself. I didn't want to miss a thing! And one should not miss the Temple of Hatshepsut. She is THE ONLY FEMALE PHAROAH EVER! and THE ONLY FEMALE RULER whose tomb gets the privilege to be in the Valley of Kings. For those times it was more than an achievement!

From there we headed to a local restaurant for a local lunch. It was scrumptious. After the late lunch, we were back to the hotel. The sun was still up, so some of the family members decided to go have a swim at the pool. By evening the temperature was pleasant again.

Details of Day 4 will be shared in a different post.

Day 5: Luxor

Day 5 started early again. We went to Luxor temple, followed by Karnak Temple, then we headed for Aswan. On the way, we stopped by the Edfu temple. The drive to Aswan was through the western desert road and it was beautiful. Details will be shared in a separate post. At Aswan, we stayed at the Benben Hotel, built on an island on Lake Nasser. Lovely hotel. I do recommend it!

Day 6: Abu Simbel

Day 6 started, at the earliest. We took a boat to the City at 4:30 a.m. Then a morning flight to Abu Simbel. Egypt Air has a to-and-fro package flight to Abu Simbel. Starts at 8:00 a.m. and reaches Abu Simbel around 8:45. An airport bus shuttles the passengers to the temple site. Waits for 1:30 hours and shuttles them back to the airport for the return flight at 11:55 a.m. 

One can also drive to Abu Simbel which takes about 4 hours one way.  Honestly, the flight was a little too hectic and I suggest, staying at Abu Simbel instead of Aswan. I I had to plan it any differently, I would have, flown to Abu Simbel the day before. stayed there overnight. Visited the temple at a slow pace without having to worry about missing the flight back. Anyway, Aswan doesn't have a lot to see unless one is an Agatha Christie Fan:) The Philae temple, the obelisk need barely half a day. The Aswan Dam tour and the Nubian Village tour weren't worth in my opinion, We spent 100 EGP for Aswan and $60 per person for Nubian Village, honestly, it was a total waste. I would suggest giving it a pass. This is the only bit I regret spending on! Will share the details of Day 6 in a separate post.

Day 7: Cairo

On the last day, we were back in Cairo. We didn't do much. Just lazed around. We stayed at Novotel, Cairo airport. It's just a 10-minute ride to T1 and T2. There is a free shuttle service from the hotel every 30 minutes. Our flight back to India was in the late afternoon. We flew back on the same route we came on Kuwait Airways via Kuwait.

Khajuraho, Unravelling The Sensuous To The Sublime

 My interpretation of Khajuraho in brush and paint 

Location of Khajuraho

THE SENSUOUS TO THE SUBLIME

Khajuraho, possibly a derivation from Khajurvahak (bearer of the date palm - Khajur (date palm) vahak (bearer) is a small town in North Madhya Pradesh. It was built around 950 AD by the powerful Chandela rulers of Bundelkhand, the descendants of the Moon as legends speak. The story of Khajuraho is well presented in the evening light and sound shows held in the western temple complex. As the legend goes, the Casanova Moon God Chandra, lost his heart to the beautiful Hemavati, the daughter of a high priest of Benaras. One day when Hemavati was bathing in a river, enamored Chandra, unable to resist her exquisiteness, descended from the sky, disguised as a handsome prince, and seduced her. After a night of passionate love, Moon left with a promise to her, that she would bear their son, who would grow up to become one of the most powerful kings of his times and establish a dynasty of equally powerful kings. As blessed, Hemavati bore Chandra's son Chandravarman who became the founder of the Chandela dynasty. Khajuraho was their first capital before shifting to Mahoba. It is said that the temples were built by Chadravarman to atone for his illegitimacy. While that's the more romantic legend, the historically documented version suggests Nannuk, a chieftain of a small Chandel clan as the founder of the Chandela dynasty. Probably the legend was later created to give a more divine lineage to the Chandelas thus legitimizing their Chandravanshi  (lunar lineage) status.

Parvati Temple and Chitragupta temple can be seen at the back (western group)

After the fall of the Chandela dynasty, this temple town, originally with 85 temples disappeared in isolation in the dense, tiger forests of MP, thus surviving the destruction and desecrations by the many Islamic invasions in the next 100 years. It was accidentally discovered in 1838 by British engineer T S Burt and General Alexander Cunnigham of the East India Company when their palanquin bearer led them to a hidden temple ground. The find brought into light 25 of the best-preserved medieval architectural marvels of India and a seductive Kamasutra legend.

Chitragupta Temple, as seen from the Jagadamba Temple (western group)

Today Khajuraho is synonymous with the art of Kamasutra (treatise on love). Ironically, Vatsayan's work on the subject written in the 3rd century had no particular relation with Khajuraho. How and when this association became an identity is difficult to trace. But of course, marketing tourism works wonders. Eroticism definitely has its way of titillating audiences and inviting them to the remotest of places. Nevertheless, the allure is unmistakable.

Erotic art in Khajuraho temples

The sculptures showcase carnal expressions of every possible nature. The voluptuous, graceful figurines etched to the finest details exude captivating sensuality. One definitely cannot ignore the erotic splendor. As ribald as it may sound, the panels depict explicit orgies, elaborate coitus, masturbation, homosexuality, and even bestiality. However, it is interesting to note, that though iconic for its erotic art, eroticism actually covers a very small part of the Khajuraho temples. And if one really dives deeper into the philosophy, this eroticism begins to appear more mystical and symbolic.

A curious question often arises, Why were these sculptures sculpted in temple precincts, especially in India where sex is considered extremely private and public expression of anything even remotely related is a taboo. There are various theories to answer this query. For that, we might need to travel back to the times when these temples were built and dig a little deeper into Hindu philosophy.

HINDU PHILOSOPHY

Core Hindu philosophy says, that every Purush (human/soul) born must work towards attaining good karma (action) through the four purusharthas (purpose of a human)/goals: Dharma (righteousness), Artha (wealth), Kama (pleasure) and Moksha (liberation). Thus, asserting kama is an essential aspect of human life. Only when in conflict, dharma must take precedence. Hinduism was more liberal and more scientific in its original principles than it is today under the influence of the political play of the so-called religion pandits. it's interesting again to note that in the 10th century, even homosexuality was more in acceptance than it is today.

Maslow's hierarchy of needs

In fact, if you really look at Maslow's hierarchy of needs, the most fundamental levels of needs are at the bottom and the need for self-actualization is at the top which precisely is the temple concept. Every religious philosophy originates from scientific roots. Self-actualization is nothing but the ultimate step to attaining moksha or nirvana, the absolute liberation of the soul, which is the key to reaching god. I believe finding oneself is reaching god. 'Aham brahmasmi',  I am God, an ancient Hindu philosophy that suggests that God resides within us.

Thus, the eroticism depicted is only a part of the various actions of a human being in a lifetime, like hunting, artistry, fighting, and worshipping, which fulfills the four purusharthas, kama inclusive. The men depicted in the sculptures are supposed, the everyday man, the priests, and the royalties. The women are supposedly the everyday women, apsaras, sura sundaris, courtesans, devadasis, yoginis, and court dancers. In ancient times, Indian men and women draped in various forms of saree or long cloth had long hair and were heavily bejeweled. The sculptures depict what they wore and dressed like in those times. The drapes are vividly detailed, and every fold and every crease is defined meticulously to demonstrate the remarkable finesse of the sculptors and artisans.

It is said that tantra was on the rise during ancient times (it is prevalent even today but in secrecy and has occult connotations - the Aghori sadhus and tantric practitioners are supposed to perform these spine-chilling rituals). The Chandelas like many others were also assumed to be great patrons of the tantric cult (as told by local guides). Tantric rituals were performed not only for personal liberation but also to augment the power of the kingdom. There were special yoginis and priests who performed these tantric rituals and maithuna (sacred sexual union) was a predominant part of these rituals. Tantric philosophy suggests that sexual energy can be channeled to transcend into spiritual liberation or unification with Shiva or the supreme force. The kundalini concept another aspect of tantric philosophy suggests a human has 7 chakras (energy points) and there is a coiled serpent in the lowest point of the spine called kundalini (the driving force). To attain moksha or to experience the ultimate mystical, spiritual bliss, this serpent must be awakened through the release of the latent energies in the 7 chakras, which is possible through various rituals, yoga, meditation, or maithuna. (I am not well versed with tantric or kundalini philosophies, so there might be errors in my understanding, and will therefore avoid delving into this subject in greater detail)

The Chausat 64 yogini temple was supposedly the abode of these temple yoginis. A particular sculpture has often been talked about and mentioned by the local guides, a woman undressing her transparent drape to ward off a scorpion climbing her left leg. Presumably, the woman is a yogini and the bearer of scorpions. Scorpions have from times immemorial symbolized human sexuality in various ancient cultures and have been reared by seductive yoginis for tantric purposes. This particular mythology suggests a second theory for the name Khajuraho. A scorpion was called Kharjura and Kharjura vahak is a scorpion bearer.

Why that level of eroticism?

I think every human at some point has fantasized the wildest. The idea is to release that extreme form of latent energy associated with craving and desire and then be completely devoid of the want for more. The goal is to arrive at that saturated state, the extreme peak. Once that state is attained, one is ready to move to the next level, where one is more in control of self. As depicted by the inner chambers of the temples the sculptures are more austere, pure, calm, depicted as singular entities, and free from any worldly expressions. A person who finds peace in this nothingness is then eligible to move to the innermost sanctum, the garbhagriha, which has stark walls, no openings (except the entrance door), and the idol. It is that absolute point where one is alone with self or god or the idol, the manifestation of God.

Therefore the concept of a temple is more a process of reaching moksha or unification with the supreme power leaving behind the worldly desires in steps, the basest to the supreme - the sensuous to the sublime.

Gods and Goddesses, sculpted on the western group of temples. Lord Ganesha (top) and Goddess Lakshmi (bottom) can be seen on the right

The temples are built of pink river sandstone with intricate and detailed carvings. It is said it took 25 years to complete each temple. It is one of the few historical sites where Jain and Hindu architecture makes a perfect blend and undeniably, one of the best. Erotic art or not, one can simply admire the skilled craftsmanship and the elaborate grandeur of these monumental edifices.

Jain and Hindu Architecture complement each other. Shantinath Temple on the left, Parshavnath Temple on the right, and a part of Adinath Temple seen behind Parshavnath Temple (eastern group)

Part of Matangeshwar Temple can be seen on the far left and Lakshmana Temple  (western group)

Apart from the temples, Khajuraho is also famous for the Dance festival held every year around Feb/March. With the backdrop of these magnificent temples, the festival is beyond doubt spectacular. A must-visit if you are an ardent fan of Indian classical dance and music.

LOCATION

Country: India

State: Madhya Pradesh

HOW TO REACH

Khajuraho has an airport, railway station, and bus service. There is a 6-day-a-week (off on Wednesdays) direct train from New Delhi as well, which runs from Hazrat Nizamuddin station. Reaching the train that November was quite a Dilwale Dulhaniya le Jayenge moment for me. Nope, no Shahrukh held out his hand, unfortunately:( I helped myself up :P. The journey takes roughly 8 hrs. At the railway station, one can find taxis and auto-rickshaws to reach the town center.

BEST TIME TO VISIT 

Anytime is a good time to visit Khajuraho, though summers are extremely hot and winters are mild as mentioned above, if you love classical dance and music, it would be worthwhile to visit this place during the dance festival held every year in February/March.

WEATHER and WHAT TO WEAR

It's mostly warm to hot in Khajuraho. Light cotton goes best. During winter, early mornings and evenings get colder and it's advisable to carry a jacket. 

WHERE TO STAY and WHAT TO EAT

Light and Sound Show at the Kandariya Mahadev temple complex

Hotels here range from luxurious 5-stars to inexpensive bed and breakfasts. During the dance festival, it gets very busy there and it is best to pre-book the hotels but otherwise, I would guess, rooms are available in most hotels. One can go there, see the rooms and then decide on the hotel (and am the kind who likes to keep an open itinerary, so that plans can be kept flexible!!).

Would make a special mention of a restaurant Bella Italiano run by an Italian lady. Both the Indian and Italian dishes there were quite good. It was so yummilicious (PS: don't try to find this word in the dictionary) I had a double dinner of plain ajwain daal and bhindi masala.

ACTIVITIES

Architectural excursions to the temple sites. One day is enough to cover all the temples but I would suggest giving a day to the Western main temple complex and a day to the eastern and southern temple complexes. One can just walk around or take an auto-rickshaw. Khajuraho is a small town and can be traveled conveniently on foot. There is a light and sound show in the evening at the main temple complex. There are local cultural shows in the evenings. There are also yoga and spa centers. I didn't try them. 

PLACES TO VISIT  

Places of interest in Khajuraho

Broadly, there are two sets of temple complexes, The western Group of temples and the eastern group of temples. As the names suggest, the western set lies to the west of the town, and the easter set lies on the west side of the town. Most tourists visit the Western group of temples since they are the best-preserved ones in Khajuraho but I think all are equally beautiful, and if one has time the Eastern ones should not be missed. The east also has some beautiful Jain temples.

Kandariya Mahadev Temple (left) and Jagadamba Temple (right) (western group)

Vamana Temple (eastern group)

Nandi Temple (western group)

Javari Temple (eastern group)

Dulha Dev Shiv Temple (eastern group)

Chaturbhuj Temple (Easter group but located far south of the town)

Pratapeshwar temple (western group)

Other places of interest close to Khajuraho

These places can be covered in a day or two from Khajuraho. There are auto rickshaws, trekkers, and rented cars to take you around.

1. Panna National Forest

Camouflaged Chital or spotted deer at Panna National Forest

2. Ken Gharial Sanctuary and Raneh Falls

Raneh Falls near Ken Gharial Sanctuary

3. Pandav Falls

Pandava Falls

4. Jardhoba rock paintings

5. Ajaygarh

Places of interest that can be tied with the Khajuraho itinerary

1. Orchha

2. Kalinjar

 

3. Gwalior

Gwalior Fort

4. Jhansi: Didn't get a chance to check out Jhansi but must mention a small vegetarian restaurant named Haveli. Rs. 100 thali of the most delicious Marwari food - unlimited helping of Makki ka roti/bajre ki roti/fulka roti with gur makkhan and ghee and of course full course rice and 5 items thaali (platter).

5. Bhopal and Sanchi

Madhya Pradesh has a rich heritage like Rajasthan. Historical sites and natural reserves are spread across almost the entire state. The roads are very well maintained and MP Tourism has done a very good job of providing good facilities and amenities for tourists, be it accommodation, food, or information centers.